My trusty old Sigma 18-125 has died
Discussion
Well, it needs repair as the light metering is way out.
So, to my mind that means I have a valid excuse for buying a new utility lens!
Any thoughts? (Canon fit).
Currently tossing up either a Sigma 18-200 OS or Sigma 17-70 f2.8.
Any other contenders? Happy to buy used as well, just not sure...
So, to my mind that means I have a valid excuse for buying a new utility lens!
Any thoughts? (Canon fit).
Currently tossing up either a Sigma 18-200 OS or Sigma 17-70 f2.8.
Any other contenders? Happy to buy used as well, just not sure...
Just to throw in something a little different...
How about the Sigma 70 - 300mm OS lens. Not too quick but the 4 stop (I believe) stabiliser should happily make up for that, and you get an extra 100mm reach.. AND its only about £300. Only issue that comes to mind is optical quality, not too sure how big the difference is..
Tom
How about the Sigma 70 - 300mm OS lens. Not too quick but the 4 stop (I believe) stabiliser should happily make up for that, and you get an extra 100mm reach.. AND its only about £300. Only issue that comes to mind is optical quality, not too sure how big the difference is..
Tom
Simpo Two said:
Note though that OS/IS/VR is not a substitute for fast glass. It will help compensate for camera movement but NOT subject movement because you can't achieve the same shutter speed.
Aaaaaaaah yes... its taken me ages to figure it out but I think I might possibly get it now... to clarify and check my understanding am I right to say you can't shoot a fast moving object and freeze it in low light with OS, because you can't get the aperture down far enough to give you a quick speed. So basically OS helps to get a slower speed but not a quicker speed..Iv confused myself far too much now, but I'm hoping iv got there now...?
Tom_G said:
Aaaaaaaah yes... its taken me ages to figure it out but I think I might possibly get it now... to clarify and check my understanding am I right to say you can't shoot a fast moving object and freeze it in low light with OS, because you can't get the aperture down far enough to give you a quick speed. So basically OS helps to get a slower speed but not a quicker speed.
Good summary, well done 
If you think 'aperture wide enough' rather than 'aperture down far enough' it will help. An aperture is a hole. It can be large or small but not up or down. Thinking of the hole and not the numbers used to define it will help you instantly grasp what is going on in the black tube thing

If i was shoping for a new lense in that range now i would be looking for one that is full frame capable. May limit you to something in the 24-70f2.8 range. Mainly thinking that i will probably have it for the next 5 years and by that stage the next body upgrade could be full frame.
anyone know if there is a 18-70 f2.8 thats full frame capable?
anyone know if there is a 18-70 f2.8 thats full frame capable?
ezakimak said:
anyone know if there is a 18-70 f2.8 thats full frame capable?
No there isnt, and wont be, it would be to expensive and compromised.No point buying a lens for a body you dont own and may never own.
Sure if its getting bought next week fine.
Otherwise buy the right lens now and sell it again later.
Theres a fair old cost difference between a 24-70L and a 17-70 sigma too!
ezakimak said:
anyone know if there is a 18-70 f2.8 thats full frame capable?
I think the best you could do is to cover that range with two lenses with constant f2.8There's a 16-28 Tokina f2.8 and several choices to cover the upper end - Canon, Sigma, Tamron etc all have something around 28-70 f2.8.
Simpo Two said:
Good summary, well done 
If you think 'aperture wide enough' rather than 'aperture down far enough' it will help. An aperture is a hole. It can be large or small but not up or down. Thinking of the hole and not the numbers used to define it will help you instantly grasp what is going on in the black tube thing
Thank you! 
If you think 'aperture wide enough' rather than 'aperture down far enough' it will help. An aperture is a hole. It can be large or small but not up or down. Thinking of the hole and not the numbers used to define it will help you instantly grasp what is going on in the black tube thing

got myself all a bit confused there but I got it now! Now iv finished being a spanner.. 
Simpo Two said:
It's not the metering as lenses don't meter. More likely sticking aperture blades - about £70 to fix, just send it to Sigma.
As for the two suggestions, what's more important to you, zoom ratio or speed?
Actually it probably isn't the blades sticking, I have fixed two sigma lenses (late 90's vintage) where the drive pinion on aperture motor had split from the base of a tooth, meaning it would not mesh properly with the next gear. Lens repair costs seem to have gone up recently, the 18-125 is listed at tariff 5 which is £86.As for the two suggestions, what's more important to you, zoom ratio or speed?
OP, the 17-70 2.8-4 OS will seem like a revelation after the rather dark 18-125, suggest you find somewhere you can try a few lenses out.
Cabinet Enforcer said:
Actually it probably isn't the blades sticking, I have fixed two sigma lenses (late 90's vintage) where the drive pinion on aperture motor had split from the base of a tooth, meaning it would not mesh properly with the next gear.
I was just going by my own Sigma which started throwing in random dark exposures, had sticking aperture blades and was sent to Sigma and fixed for £70 
However if you repair lenses you could do some business here!
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