'00 VICS Cylinder head purchased... what else?
Discussion
Found myself something to do for the next few weeks. Purchaced a Mk2 VICS model head to swap onto my 94, got the manifold, solenoid, fuel rail etc etc.
Picking it up tomorrow, will asess the state of it then, but at the least It will get stripped down, deep cleaned, new valve seals etc before swapping. Also need to work out how to build an RPM activated switch.
So - as I'm going to have the head off soon - what else shall I do at the same time?
Any other obvious upgrades to make at the same time - or things to replace? Obviously I'll be usina a whole bunch of gaskets, seals etc etc as I rebuild.
Picking it up tomorrow, will asess the state of it then, but at the least It will get stripped down, deep cleaned, new valve seals etc before swapping. Also need to work out how to build an RPM activated switch.
So - as I'm going to have the head off soon - what else shall I do at the same time?
Any other obvious upgrades to make at the same time - or things to replace? Obviously I'll be usina a whole bunch of gaskets, seals etc etc as I rebuild.
Some of you might be interested in this at least...
I picked it up on Saturday. Turns out, its a garage selling odd bits thru wife's ebay account. The'yd put a recon engine in a Mk2 with a spun bearing. Had no idea about the popularity and 'diy' scene with the MX-5 - expressed surprise at how quick I'd paid and turned up! Same bare bones cylinder head with a very basic refresh is on Autolink for £300+vat. I paid £100.
Turned up, it seems they'd literally undone the head bolts and lifted everything off.
Here's What I got -
As well as the head itself, I now have tonnes of spares. Intake manifold. VICS actuator, solenoid and gubbins. Throttle body, fuel rail, injectors, all the sensors (TPS, coolant etc), a coolant intake, a thermostat housing and a stat, all the coolant and vacuum pipes from the top of the engine, etc etc, which should make the job easier and maybe recoup a few quid at the end.
I now have to look into which bits I keep from my 94 and which bits I keep off the '00 - Injectors, for example, are improved on the '00 I believe.
I started stripping it on Monday, here are some of the bits -
Everything seems in good order. Cams look OK, need to measure them. Tappets look OK too, I've measured the clearances and there is room to bump them up to the top of the tolerance for max valve lift, but this is dependent on the availability of shims - could be difficult/expensive I'm guessing. Note use of freezer bags to label everything up, each valve has its own bag, E1-8, I1-8. Also, each camshaft bearing shell has its own label and position noted too. Obviously this is important. (This is a job that's going to take a lot of time, but my labours free!).
Had trouble with a couple of Spring compressors, due to the depth of the head and lack of space round the valves. Found this one though that worked well. I'll pass it on to another MX-5 owner when this project is over.
As of tonight, I've got the whole exhaust side stripped. Intake valves still to remove. I've started cleaning up the manifold too, that will get painted in wrinkle paint (As every things apart, it may as well put it back together looking pretty! I'll paint all the brackets, clean all the bolts up, do the cam cover too).
There's lots to do and think about...
- What headwork do I get done, and how much do I do myself (New book on the way too, the Veloce one, got a few of theirs now. Any recommendation on other books?)
- Skimming - how much? just to flat it off, or enough the raise the CR?
- Purchase all gaskets, stem seals etc.
- Coolant re-route?
- What RPM switch to buy/build?
- Find a local machine shop
And tonnes more. Its keeping my busy on a night, gives me an excuse to buy new tools, and should give a notable improvement in the car. Just how much remains to be seen, but by all accounts its worth it at least.
Of course it leads me onto... Why not buy and rebuild a block at the same time and swap it over as one... and once I have my fresh, optimised engine, why not get the right kit to tune it properly (megasquirt) ?
Total expenditure now around £150... I'm reckoning on £3-400 by the time I'm done. Theres no rush with this either though, it'll be done at leisure, which is the beauy of buying spares to work on, then I'll get a few quid back at the end of the job selling the old bits.
It might be worth noting that I'm not an experience engine builder or anything either - just a keen DIY'er who isn't scared. All this is self taught, I'm sure i'll mess something up, but really its all just nuts and bolts and people shouldn't be scared of this kind of thing. Maybe I'll inspire someone to have a go at doing some work on their own car. Theres no better car to learn on than an MX-5 IMO!
Had a good chat in the motorfactors after I went in on way home from work in shirt and tie and asked for spring compressors - not many people muck in these days it seems!
If anyone is interested to read more, I'll keep this updated...?
I picked it up on Saturday. Turns out, its a garage selling odd bits thru wife's ebay account. The'yd put a recon engine in a Mk2 with a spun bearing. Had no idea about the popularity and 'diy' scene with the MX-5 - expressed surprise at how quick I'd paid and turned up! Same bare bones cylinder head with a very basic refresh is on Autolink for £300+vat. I paid £100.
Turned up, it seems they'd literally undone the head bolts and lifted everything off.
Here's What I got -
As well as the head itself, I now have tonnes of spares. Intake manifold. VICS actuator, solenoid and gubbins. Throttle body, fuel rail, injectors, all the sensors (TPS, coolant etc), a coolant intake, a thermostat housing and a stat, all the coolant and vacuum pipes from the top of the engine, etc etc, which should make the job easier and maybe recoup a few quid at the end.
I now have to look into which bits I keep from my 94 and which bits I keep off the '00 - Injectors, for example, are improved on the '00 I believe.
I started stripping it on Monday, here are some of the bits -
Everything seems in good order. Cams look OK, need to measure them. Tappets look OK too, I've measured the clearances and there is room to bump them up to the top of the tolerance for max valve lift, but this is dependent on the availability of shims - could be difficult/expensive I'm guessing. Note use of freezer bags to label everything up, each valve has its own bag, E1-8, I1-8. Also, each camshaft bearing shell has its own label and position noted too. Obviously this is important. (This is a job that's going to take a lot of time, but my labours free!).
Had trouble with a couple of Spring compressors, due to the depth of the head and lack of space round the valves. Found this one though that worked well. I'll pass it on to another MX-5 owner when this project is over.
As of tonight, I've got the whole exhaust side stripped. Intake valves still to remove. I've started cleaning up the manifold too, that will get painted in wrinkle paint (As every things apart, it may as well put it back together looking pretty! I'll paint all the brackets, clean all the bolts up, do the cam cover too).
There's lots to do and think about...
- What headwork do I get done, and how much do I do myself (New book on the way too, the Veloce one, got a few of theirs now. Any recommendation on other books?)
- Skimming - how much? just to flat it off, or enough the raise the CR?
- Purchase all gaskets, stem seals etc.
- Coolant re-route?
- What RPM switch to buy/build?
- Find a local machine shop
And tonnes more. Its keeping my busy on a night, gives me an excuse to buy new tools, and should give a notable improvement in the car. Just how much remains to be seen, but by all accounts its worth it at least.
Of course it leads me onto... Why not buy and rebuild a block at the same time and swap it over as one... and once I have my fresh, optimised engine, why not get the right kit to tune it properly (megasquirt) ?
Total expenditure now around £150... I'm reckoning on £3-400 by the time I'm done. Theres no rush with this either though, it'll be done at leisure, which is the beauy of buying spares to work on, then I'll get a few quid back at the end of the job selling the old bits.
It might be worth noting that I'm not an experience engine builder or anything either - just a keen DIY'er who isn't scared. All this is self taught, I'm sure i'll mess something up, but really its all just nuts and bolts and people shouldn't be scared of this kind of thing. Maybe I'll inspire someone to have a go at doing some work on their own car. Theres no better car to learn on than an MX-5 IMO!
Had a good chat in the motorfactors after I went in on way home from work in shirt and tie and asked for spring compressors - not many people muck in these days it seems!
If anyone is interested to read more, I'll keep this updated...?
snotrag said:
If anyone is interested to read more, I'll keep this updated...?
Yes please. Although I definitely fall into the 'scared' category of owners you mention before, I do like having a crack at doing things myself.. Although I think replacing the cylinder head is definitely out of my league. Good luck with it, I hope it goes well.Riknos said:
Yes please. Although I definitely fall into the 'scared' category of owners you mention before, I do like having a crack at doing things myself.. Although I think replacing the cylinder head is definitely out of my league. Good luck with it, I hope it goes well.I did a similar thing with an old 1971 Rover P6 2200TC many many years ago. I learned a lot from rebuilding the head on that! (like for example, they don't make 'em like they used to - They have a bracket attached to the engine that the cams can be fixed to so the head can be lifted off without disturbing the cam timing!)
Have you considered doing the exintake mod?
Have you considered doing the exintake mod?
I removed and stripped the head on my old 1.6 Eunos last Summer to replace the valve stem oil seals and decided that that was about as much diy as I fancy these days. Nowhere near as ambitious as your project!
I do think, though, that with a car like an old MX5, doing at least one track day and one reasonably significant mechanical job are things that help you to understand and bond with your car. They enrich the ownership experience and make it a true ‘hobby car’, rather than just A – B transport.
I know what you mean about finding the right valve spring compressor. I found one on eBay and initially thought I’d made a mistake before I realised that the fitting that goes over the valve stems was reversible to one with a much smaller diameter that would fit within the 5’s valve recesses. The thing that drove me mad until I developed the technique was refitting the valve spring collets. They’re just so fiddly! In the end I used a jeweller’s screw driver, a pair of tweezers and a dab of grease on each collet to “stick” them in place before releasing the spring tension. It’s amazing how a split collet can disappear when you drop it into the head casting!
I left the inlet manifold attached to the head and found it surprisingly difficult on my own to lower the head back onto the block without sliding the head around and damaging the gasket. I think if I’d removed the manifold it would have been much easier but I ended up using a hoist and lowering the head a millimetre at a time.
Final learning point: when finally ready to restart the engine, it helps to remember to reconnect the wiring harness to the air flow meter! It took me a little while to work out why it would run but stall as soon as I gave it any throttle. Doh!
Good luck with the project!
I do think, though, that with a car like an old MX5, doing at least one track day and one reasonably significant mechanical job are things that help you to understand and bond with your car. They enrich the ownership experience and make it a true ‘hobby car’, rather than just A – B transport.
I know what you mean about finding the right valve spring compressor. I found one on eBay and initially thought I’d made a mistake before I realised that the fitting that goes over the valve stems was reversible to one with a much smaller diameter that would fit within the 5’s valve recesses. The thing that drove me mad until I developed the technique was refitting the valve spring collets. They’re just so fiddly! In the end I used a jeweller’s screw driver, a pair of tweezers and a dab of grease on each collet to “stick” them in place before releasing the spring tension. It’s amazing how a split collet can disappear when you drop it into the head casting!
I left the inlet manifold attached to the head and found it surprisingly difficult on my own to lower the head back onto the block without sliding the head around and damaging the gasket. I think if I’d removed the manifold it would have been much easier but I ended up using a hoist and lowering the head a millimetre at a time.
Final learning point: when finally ready to restart the engine, it helps to remember to reconnect the wiring harness to the air flow meter! It took me a little while to work out why it would run but stall as soon as I gave it any throttle. Doh!
Good luck with the project!
Another few hours in the garage last night, started cleaning up the valves. I dread to think how long all this would take on a multivalve V8 or V10!
The valves all look in good nick, no wear on the shafts. A couple of them had a little more carbon burnt onto them than others, but not too bad. I've cleaned up the front faces, the back faces (where the fuel/fumes 'flow' across), and removed all the grot with emery cloth. Leaving the sealing face/seat untouched ready for a minor re-lapping to get a good seal. No problems so far...!
There is a perceptible amount of play in the guides/seals though, on about half the valves, so I have decided to change them.
Also the given the head a really good clean, as best I can at home, and cleaned up the manifold mating surfaces.
I'll get the machine shop to properly clean it when they do the skim (think I've found somewhere local who can do it).
I'll sit down soon and order all the bits I need later, head gasket kit etc etc... Maybe do some of the painting this weekend too.
I need a spare Cam cover if anyone has one??!
The valves all look in good nick, no wear on the shafts. A couple of them had a little more carbon burnt onto them than others, but not too bad. I've cleaned up the front faces, the back faces (where the fuel/fumes 'flow' across), and removed all the grot with emery cloth. Leaving the sealing face/seat untouched ready for a minor re-lapping to get a good seal. No problems so far...!
There is a perceptible amount of play in the guides/seals though, on about half the valves, so I have decided to change them.
Also the given the head a really good clean, as best I can at home, and cleaned up the manifold mating surfaces.
I'll get the machine shop to properly clean it when they do the skim (think I've found somewhere local who can do it).
I'll sit down soon and order all the bits I need later, head gasket kit etc etc... Maybe do some of the painting this weekend too.
I need a spare Cam cover if anyone has one??!
Had a bit more time on it now. All valves have been cleaned up, head is now ready to go to the machine shop for cleaning and skimming. If im lucky I might be able to get down on Friday afternoon.
I've started touching up bits to go back on. I'll pick up some red wrinkle paint tonight and maybe start the intake manifold. I've also machined up a tool on the lathe to push out the valve guides.
I'm unsure yet as to whether to replace them though, some are showing a bit of wear, but I've yet to find a source of replacements. I'll ask at the dealers (which will probably blow their minds) but if I cant easily/cheaply get replacements ill not bother, and just change the seals. The play really is very, very minimal. I'll get a dial gauge on it as it may even be within tolerance.
RE exhintake - I thought that only applied to the Mk1 head, with the Mk2 having changed cams?
I've started touching up bits to go back on. I'll pick up some red wrinkle paint tonight and maybe start the intake manifold. I've also machined up a tool on the lathe to push out the valve guides.
I'm unsure yet as to whether to replace them though, some are showing a bit of wear, but I've yet to find a source of replacements. I'll ask at the dealers (which will probably blow their minds) but if I cant easily/cheaply get replacements ill not bother, and just change the seals. The play really is very, very minimal. I'll get a dial gauge on it as it may even be within tolerance.
RE exhintake - I thought that only applied to the Mk1 head, with the Mk2 having changed cams?
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