Flaring steel brake pipes

[Cobalt Blue]

I have to change the brake pipes on my son's car as they are rusted over the back axle. Problem is, the pipes are in one section from the bulkhead to the rear, and I would probably have to drop the front subframe to get them out. The front section has no rust at all. I have cunifer pipe, unions and a decent flaring tool. I have made up and fitted new pipes many times, but never joined up to steel pipes - my flaring tool says 'not suitable for steel pipes'

Has anyone done this? I could live with wear on the (very solid) flaring tool, but only if the joint is very safe. Is there perhaps a special tool for steel pipes?

Thanks, CB

[MG CHRIS]

What car is it on ive done many brake pipes on all sorts of cars and never had to drop the subframe to get a pipe of or on. Ive never joined a brake pipe before it normaly quicker to replace the hole pipe and ive done some very long ones in my time as an apprentice. Are you using copper pipe to replace with much easier to flare the ends and bend than steel pipes.

[fareaster]

I recently replaced all the steel pipes on my car with kunifer. The steel pipes I took off had very different male and female flares while the Kunifer had a common flare for both male and female fittings. I queried this with the pipe manufacturer and they told me that, as Kunifer was softer than steel, the common flare would easily deform to effect a good seal for either type of fitting - this has proved to be the case.
In your case I would suggest that the Kunifer/copper flaring tool may only be capable of producing this common flare and for steel pipes you would need a tool capable of producing both a male and female flare.

[Cobalt Blue]

Apologies for the delay in responding, and thanks to those who offered advice.

I had a word with my friendly MOT man, and he said no problem with joining the pipes, just take it easy and don't strain the flaring tool etc.

The car is a Toyota Carina and the pipes were rusted around the front of the fuel tank; not a spot of rust elsewhere. I used cunifer pipe, and would never, ever use copper because it work hardens with vibration. The pipes were in one section, from the bulkhead to the rear axle and I had enough of a job winding the new tubes over the tank and around the suspension. There is a narrow gap over the front subframe and steering rack which the pipes pass through. That, and contorsions at the rear made it difficult to fit a one-piece pipe.

The steel pipes all had female flares (trumpet shaped), even onto the load valve and wheel cyclinders. I did the same for the cunifer pipe, except for the new couplers which needed a male flare. My flaring tool (Sealy, I think, about £30) flared the two steel pipes with no problem and the car has been driven for a week or so with no leaks.

[MG CHRIS]

Nice looks like a good job its one of my least favourite jobs in work replaceing brake pipes.

[Firefoot]

How easy is it to fit Kunifer pipe if you haven't done it before? I was thinking of getting some piping and a flaring tool and having a go at replacing the rear brake lines on my Nissan 200sx. Guessing it is cheaper than putting it into a garage?

I already have a pipe cutter.