raceproved clutch and standard clutch slave cylinder
Discussion
Just posting this for general information for others who may find the same problem!
If you have a raceproved clutch, you can’t fit a standard slave cylinder without modifying it.
Basically, the raceproved clutch assembly is slightly deeper than a standard AP unit and if you fit a new standard clutch slave cylinder, you will almost certainly find the clutch slips after doing a road test!
Why you will now be asking (unless you already know!)?
Basically, to accommodate the deeper clutch unit, raceproved shorten the length of the inner slave cylinder piston to allow it to return further.
My original slave cylinder was the original unit (plain S/S, single seals), not a double seal raceproved slave, so when I replaced it with a new standard slave, I though all would work fine. However, you need to have the inner piston machined down to allow the it to return far enough not to cause the clutch to slip.
Hopefully this will be of use to someone at some point!
Many thanks to Mark at racetech who was able to do the comparison and help me out and also supplied the new slave cylinder.
see image below
If you have a raceproved clutch, you can’t fit a standard slave cylinder without modifying it.
Basically, the raceproved clutch assembly is slightly deeper than a standard AP unit and if you fit a new standard clutch slave cylinder, you will almost certainly find the clutch slips after doing a road test!
Why you will now be asking (unless you already know!)?
Basically, to accommodate the deeper clutch unit, raceproved shorten the length of the inner slave cylinder piston to allow it to return further.
My original slave cylinder was the original unit (plain S/S, single seals), not a double seal raceproved slave, so when I replaced it with a new standard slave, I though all would work fine. However, you need to have the inner piston machined down to allow the it to return far enough not to cause the clutch to slip.
Hopefully this will be of use to someone at some point!
Many thanks to Mark at racetech who was able to do the comparison and help me out and also supplied the new slave cylinder.
see image below
As far as i know, there are mixed reviews on the raceproved version as the front seal is normally running dry as the fluid should only get past the back seal if the back seal has gone. This means that the front seal normally goes first and ends up breaking up the rear seal.
BUT........
I have not had a raceproved version, so cant give my opinion just that of others that i have read on PH.
In terms of the std one, the last time mine had work was over 5 years ago (before i purchased the car 2 years ago), so i think the standard one is fine. Just remember to change the fluid more often to help extend the life of the seals!
Running a raceproved version with a standard clutch is also fine as the length of the outer cylinder the piston runs through is the same, so in theory, the raceproved version will extend just as far, its just that the raceproved version retracts further to give clearance for a deeper clutch should you need it.
BUT........
I have not had a raceproved version, so cant give my opinion just that of others that i have read on PH.
In terms of the std one, the last time mine had work was over 5 years ago (before i purchased the car 2 years ago), so i think the standard one is fine. Just remember to change the fluid more often to help extend the life of the seals!
Running a raceproved version with a standard clutch is also fine as the length of the outer cylinder the piston runs through is the same, so in theory, the raceproved version will extend just as far, its just that the raceproved version retracts further to give clearance for a deeper clutch should you need it.
Re the front seal running dry, could this be remedied by fitting the piston while the whole thing is immersed in brake fluid, trapping fluid between the seals? Any fluid that gets past the first seal would transfer hydraulic pressure to the front seal. And the front seal would be kept lub'ed.
greenracing said:
As far as i know, there are mixed reviews on the raceproved version as the front seal is normally running dry as the fluid should only get past the back seal if the back seal has gone. This means that the front seal normally goes first and ends up breaking up the rear seal.
BUT........
I have not had a raceproved version, so cant give my opinion just that of others that i have read on PH.
Can you show us the thread where this is discussed? I have not been able to find anything about this and have never heard (or had) anything but praise for the Raceproved slave.BUT........
I have not had a raceproved version, so cant give my opinion just that of others that i have read on PH.
Now this Post has come at a perfect time for me.
Seals have just gone on Standard Slave after 12,000 - which IMHO should be classified as "unfit for purpose".
Would love to convert to something more reliable but the OP has scared the crap out of me.
Goin' on holiday for a week now so am looking forward to some more, substantiated, input when I return.
Ryan, what was Raceprooved's reaction when you told them about your problem ??
Seals have just gone on Standard Slave after 12,000 - which IMHO should be classified as "unfit for purpose".
Would love to convert to something more reliable but the OP has scared the crap out of me.
Goin' on holiday for a week now so am looking forward to some more, substantiated, input when I return.
Ryan, what was Raceprooved's reaction when you told them about your problem ??
Gazzab said:
Wasn't the op talking about a Raceproved clutch with a standard slave...?
Anyway a rp slave is without doubt a significant improvement and any stories of woe don't stack up as far as I can see...?
I don't know about the RP clutch pack and standard slave as a combo, but I wouldn't hesitate to run the RP slave and standard clutch pack. I also agree that to return to using the standard consumable slave would be a big step backwards!Anyway a rp slave is without doubt a significant improvement and any stories of woe don't stack up as far as I can see...?
ok, just got the modified piston back from the machine shop, its now assembled and I will hopefully get the car back together Saturday morning.
re my previous post, I searched for info about the various options back in sept when I had issues with my original unit, however, I can't find the post that talks about the front seal going dry to refer to. Since the other comments on this OP 100% back the raceproved unit I may have made the wrong choice going for the standard unit
re my previous post, I searched for info about the various options back in sept when I had issues with my original unit, however, I can't find the post that talks about the front seal going dry to refer to. Since the other comments on this OP 100% back the raceproved unit I may have made the wrong choice going for the standard unit
greenracing said:
ok, just got the modified piston back from the machine shop, its now assembled and I will hopefully get the car back together Saturday morning.
re my previous post, I searched for info about the various options back in sept when I had issues with my original unit, however, I can't find the post that talks about the front seal going dry to refer to. Since the other comments on this OP 100% back the raceproved unit I may have made the wrong choice going for the standard unit
Don't worry you won't have long to wait until you're fitting the RaceProved version re my previous post, I searched for info about the various options back in sept when I had issues with my original unit, however, I can't find the post that talks about the front seal going dry to refer to. Since the other comments on this OP 100% back the raceproved unit I may have made the wrong choice going for the standard unit
I have had a slight weep from under the bell housing since i bought the car a few years ago never lost much fluid but since the engine and box are out time to investigate the leak.
I have pulled the bell housing off and it has race proved stamped on the clutch fingers and they also look much beefier than the standard AP clutch fingers as i have a spare standard clutch lying there as well.
Can any one shed light on this? I am yet to pop the piston out to see what type is fitted but i will in the coming weeks.
I have pulled the bell housing off and it has race proved stamped on the clutch fingers and they also look much beefier than the standard AP clutch fingers as i have a spare standard clutch lying there as well.
Can any one shed light on this? I am yet to pop the piston out to see what type is fitted but i will in the coming weeks.
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