Discussion
hey guys, passed test in feb, full licence , what a feeling ...
now to the first bike...
going to see a kawasaki zzr600 tomorrow, from what i've read its an ideal first bike,
easy to ride, plenty of power and cheap to insure !
what to look out for ?
its a private sale,so no warranties or comebacks...
all advice welcome
now to the first bike...
going to see a kawasaki zzr600 tomorrow, from what i've read its an ideal first bike,
easy to ride, plenty of power and cheap to insure !
what to look out for ?
its a private sale,so no warranties or comebacks...
all advice welcome
Edited by joncon on Monday 11th March 19:53
What age are you looking at?
Generally they are bulletproof, but you need to check the obvious things:
Consumables; tyres, chain and sprockets, brake pads and discs; if they are worn out or close to needing replaced that will all cost you money.
Suspension; does it move freely, does it leak; all rebuildable, but again it will cost you money.
Plastics; cracks, misaligned panels, flappy bits where lugs have broken off; all show accident damage, so what else is bent that you can't see?
Service history; is it all there (receipts, not just stamps in a book) and how frequently has it been done? I would rather buy a high mileage bike that has been properly serviced every year than a low miles bike that has only been looked at twice in ten years.
"They all do that." No they don't. If you're not happy or just not sure, then walk away. There are hundreds of bikes for sale every day; don't ever buy the first one you see.
Generally they are bulletproof, but you need to check the obvious things:
Consumables; tyres, chain and sprockets, brake pads and discs; if they are worn out or close to needing replaced that will all cost you money.
Suspension; does it move freely, does it leak; all rebuildable, but again it will cost you money.
Plastics; cracks, misaligned panels, flappy bits where lugs have broken off; all show accident damage, so what else is bent that you can't see?
Service history; is it all there (receipts, not just stamps in a book) and how frequently has it been done? I would rather buy a high mileage bike that has been properly serviced every year than a low miles bike that has only been looked at twice in ten years.
"They all do that." No they don't. If you're not happy or just not sure, then walk away. There are hundreds of bikes for sale every day; don't ever buy the first one you see.
i know about the exhaust downpipes, most would be stainless steel by now i hope !
really excited about being able to buy a big bike !
wasnt my first choice, but funds are limited this year, and as a new biker i thought it was quite a good bike for my first summer!
was tempted by a '98 fireblade, but maybe that can be 2nd bike....triumph speed triple is already planned as my 3rd bike.....
i got it bad !
really excited about being able to buy a big bike !
wasnt my first choice, but funds are limited this year, and as a new biker i thought it was quite a good bike for my first summer!
was tempted by a '98 fireblade, but maybe that can be 2nd bike....triumph speed triple is already planned as my 3rd bike.....
i got it bad !
Rubin215 said:
What age are you looking at?
Generally they are bulletproof, but you need to check the obvious things:
Consumables; tyres, chain and sprockets, brake pads and discs; if they are worn out or close to needing replaced that will all cost you money.
Suspension; does it move freely, does it leak; all rebuildable, but again it will cost you money.
Plastics; cracks, misaligned panels, flappy bits where lugs have broken off; all show accident damage, so what else is bent that you can't see?
Service history; is it all there (receipts, not just stamps in a book) and how frequently has it been done? I would rather buy a high mileage bike that has been properly serviced every year than a low miles bike that has only been looked at twice in ten years.
"They all do that." No they don't. If you're not happy or just not sure, then walk away. There are hundreds of bikes for sale every day; don't ever buy the first one you see.
all good advice....Generally they are bulletproof, but you need to check the obvious things:
Consumables; tyres, chain and sprockets, brake pads and discs; if they are worn out or close to needing replaced that will all cost you money.
Suspension; does it move freely, does it leak; all rebuildable, but again it will cost you money.
Plastics; cracks, misaligned panels, flappy bits where lugs have broken off; all show accident damage, so what else is bent that you can't see?
Service history; is it all there (receipts, not just stamps in a book) and how frequently has it been done? I would rather buy a high mileage bike that has been properly serviced every year than a low miles bike that has only been looked at twice in ten years.
"They all do that." No they don't. If you're not happy or just not sure, then walk away. There are hundreds of bikes for sale every day; don't ever buy the first one you see.
i got to keep calm !
its a 2001 model
Edited by joncon on Monday 11th March 20:25
Also look at the lock-stops and head bearings.
The lock-stops are the bits that prevent the handlebars turning too far and breaking your thumbs against the tank; they are cast lumps on the bottom yoke that connect with a lump on the headstock of the frame.
Turn the steering from side to side and measure the distance between the handlebar and the tank; if one side is less then the other (three finger gap one side, two the other for example) then either the clip on is bent, the forks are twisted or the lock-stop is damaged.
For a first bike, I would recommend walking away if this is the case, as there could be plenty more hidden damage.
Head bearings are easily checked by putting the bike on the centre stand and getting someone to put their weight on the seat so the front wheel is in the air.
Take hold of the fork stantions (the chromey bit) just above the sliders (the alloy bit) and try moving them backwards and forwards. Play in the head bearings will be felt as movement.
Also move the forks from side to side and feel for roughness; you will feel it much more this way than by holding the handlebars.
This is also where you will find out if the fork seals are leaking as your hands will now be oily.
Do the same check with your hands at the bottom of the fork legs to check for play in the fork bushes; this is potentially expensive to fix.
Take hold of the wheel rim and see if there is any side to side play (wheel bearings).
At the rear end, put your hands under the swingarm and see if you can lift it up; any play is wear in the suspension linkage and is expensive and a pain in the ass to sort out.
ZZR's even have grease nipples on the linkage to prevent this happening so if previous owners haven't even bothered to do this much then walk away.
Again, check for play in the wheel bearings.
Rotate the rear wheel and look at the chain all the way round; do any links look kinked when it rotates? If yes, then the chain is scrap so allow £100 to replace it and sprockets.
How rusty is it, has it ever been oiled, is it absolutely caked with old oil and road filth? All are signs of a careless owner.
The lock-stops are the bits that prevent the handlebars turning too far and breaking your thumbs against the tank; they are cast lumps on the bottom yoke that connect with a lump on the headstock of the frame.
Turn the steering from side to side and measure the distance between the handlebar and the tank; if one side is less then the other (three finger gap one side, two the other for example) then either the clip on is bent, the forks are twisted or the lock-stop is damaged.
For a first bike, I would recommend walking away if this is the case, as there could be plenty more hidden damage.
Head bearings are easily checked by putting the bike on the centre stand and getting someone to put their weight on the seat so the front wheel is in the air.
Take hold of the fork stantions (the chromey bit) just above the sliders (the alloy bit) and try moving them backwards and forwards. Play in the head bearings will be felt as movement.
Also move the forks from side to side and feel for roughness; you will feel it much more this way than by holding the handlebars.
This is also where you will find out if the fork seals are leaking as your hands will now be oily.
Do the same check with your hands at the bottom of the fork legs to check for play in the fork bushes; this is potentially expensive to fix.
Take hold of the wheel rim and see if there is any side to side play (wheel bearings).
At the rear end, put your hands under the swingarm and see if you can lift it up; any play is wear in the suspension linkage and is expensive and a pain in the ass to sort out.
ZZR's even have grease nipples on the linkage to prevent this happening so if previous owners haven't even bothered to do this much then walk away.
Again, check for play in the wheel bearings.
Rotate the rear wheel and look at the chain all the way round; do any links look kinked when it rotates? If yes, then the chain is scrap so allow £100 to replace it and sprockets.
How rusty is it, has it ever been oiled, is it absolutely caked with old oil and road filth? All are signs of a careless owner.
My first bike after passing my bike test was a 1990 ZZR600. Great engine, lots of power for its capacity, handling on the squidgier side of sporty but extremely comfortable to rack up the miles on.
Finish is a bit fragile but nothing terminal just cosmetics go off and look pitted etc.
IMO The engine is more robust than the Thundercat but that's down to opinion.
Finish is a bit fragile but nothing terminal just cosmetics go off and look pitted etc.
IMO The engine is more robust than the Thundercat but that's down to opinion.
conkerman said:
Get a thundercat. Much better bike.
The zzr dates from 1989, pretty old.
Give the suspension a good once over.
They're both old. The first bike 600 of choice should be the TT600 nowadays. They can be had for £1500 and are a much more modern (fuel injected), better handling, BRITISH MADE machine.The zzr dates from 1989, pretty old.
Give the suspension a good once over.
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