X308 - what to look out for?
Discussion
Hi,
I've been keeping a look out for a X300 3.2 for a while now and I'm aware of the issues to look out for. The general consensus appears to be the engine is pretty bullet proof.
However I've just come across this X308:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1998-JAGUAR-XJ-EXECUTIVE...
and it looks like truly incredible value for money. Could anyone give me some tips to what to look out for? I've heard these are not as reliable as the X308 but as long there aren't any potential ridiculous bills looming for these and I'm not too concerned.
Thanks
I've been keeping a look out for a X300 3.2 for a while now and I'm aware of the issues to look out for. The general consensus appears to be the engine is pretty bullet proof.
However I've just come across this X308:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1998-JAGUAR-XJ-EXECUTIVE...
and it looks like truly incredible value for money. Could anyone give me some tips to what to look out for? I've heard these are not as reliable as the X308 but as long there aren't any potential ridiculous bills looming for these and I'm not too concerned.
Thanks
Try not to fall asleep halfway through... 
OVERVIEW
To avoid model confusion between the several XJ variants the 1997-2002 V8 engined XJ is often referred to by its factory designation as the X308. The V8 engine in the X308 is available in a 3.2, a 4.0 with VVT and a supercharged 4.0 and all versions are 5 speed auto only
£3000 should buy you a good example, but the best low mileage cars are priced at considerably more than that. Engines were revised in late 1999 for the 2000 model year to deal with early problems and the revised engine versions can be identified by a VIN number ending in five, not six digits.
Pre engine revision cars had weak water pumps, secondary timing chain tensioners, throttle bodies and a Nicasil coating directly on the aluminum cylinder walls rather than conventional liners pressed into the block.
ENGINE
Some Nicasil coatings suffered from bore erosion due to a combination of high Sulphur content fuel and short trips. Sulphur maximum allowable limits in petrol were lowered considerably in Jan 2000 so any pre 2000 Nicasil coated V8 engine that's still OK now should be fine forever. Several engines were changed under warranty so you may see a pre 2000 car with a later steel lined engine fitted - identify this by the presence of a green tag on the head at the back of the RH bank and the engine change should also be recorded in the history. Symptoms of bore erosion resulting in loss of compression are poor cold starting, a rough idle and heavy oil deposits in the breather system and air intakes. Crankcase pressure will be high too – a quick check is to slightly lift the oil filler cap at hot idle. There should be little or no internal pressure or fumes escaping. Jaguar dealers can perform a blowby check to determine engine condition. A good condition engine will show less than 25 l/m, anything over 40 l/m will make a good Top Gear coffee table.
Water pumps may loose efficiency and can be upgraded for the later version with a metal, not plastic impellor. Early impellors can disintegrate leading to overheating and potential head gasket failure.
The engine temperature gauge is not always an accurate refection of actual temperature. As a indication to water pump condition, remove the coolant header tank cap when the engine is stone cold, start up and gently increase engine speed. If the water pump is healthy you should see a steady stream of coolant into the tank from the thin return pipe that runs back from the front of the engine.
You may be able to identify the later type of pump by the presence of a black plastic, not metal gasket, but the only certain way is to remove the pump and have a look and if you’re doing that stick a new one on anyway and flush the system and renew the coolant. Sprung coolant hose clips can loose tension and allow pipes to blow off and some plastic parts on the hoses, unions and thermostat housing are delicate. It’s worth replacing all the sprung coolant clips with proper Jubilee ones. Check all over for evidence of coolant leaks, particularly around the thermostat/filler cap tower.
Occasional heater pump failures can lead to no heat output in the cabin at low engine RPM. Cycle the whole climate and a/c system through all vent operations and temperature range. Two types of coolant available for the XJ - don’t mix the later orange long life one with the earlier type.
Early throttle bodies ought to have all have been changed to the later design under a factory safety recall. Some of the early bodies suffered from weak/failing actuating motors causing to the engine to cut out completely on the overrun.
The only post 1999 revision engine issue is the secondary timing chain tensioners. These were revised to a mk 2 version at the same time as the rest of the engine revisions but the mk 2 type still had a plastic body which can crack or break up leading to slipped or broken chains. Mk 1 tensioners are actuated by engine oil pressure and failure can often be identified by a sharp rattling noise similar to a bicycle chain dragging on the chain guard on a cold start. The mk2 type is permanently tensioned by an integral spring which usually means it’ll fail silently.
A permanent solution is to retro-fit the later mk3 version tensioner with a metal, not plastic body from the later 4.2 incarnation of the V8 engine and the only way to be sure of which tensioners are fitted to an X308 is to either have a receipt with part numbers C2A1511 and C2A1512 and 4 new bolts on it relating to that particular car or remove the RH cam cover - the LH is a PITA to get off - and have a look. An orange (mk1) or cream (mk2) tensioner plastic body is bad news, a grey metal one (mk3) is good. The cam phasing on the V8 means the timing gear works hard and timing chains can stretch at high mileages or on neglected cars. If this is identified then a full chain and tensioner replacement is required costing up to £1000. If the chains are fine then it’s a wise precaution to fit the mk3 secondary tensioners which is a fairly easy DIY job. Tensioners cost around £75 a set plus a couple of quid for new bolts. Exhaust cam chains slipping one tooth – usually on a cold start - will give a rough running engine, more than one tooth means exhaust valves meet pistons. Cam setting tools for this job and all other special tools needed for any work on an X308 can all be hired from the Jaguar Enthusiasts’ Club.
GEARBOX/ DRIVELINE ISSUES
All X308s have a “sealed for life” gearbox. Loads have failed now - just look on ebay in the non runners or spares and repairs section. Any car that hesitates or engages Drive with a jerk or thump as the engine speed rises has a potential gearbox failure looming, changes should be seamless and quiet and you should be able to play tunes with the throttle, Sport switch and J gate selector.
A very faint whine may be heard in intermediate gears. Any gearbox problems or concerns are potentially serious. An oil and filter change may be all that’s needed to cure a gearbox malfunction but that’s never guaranteed.
Ideally the gearbox oil and filter should be changed at 50k then at 25k intervals; it's not a simple drain and refill on the ZF box as the final fill has to be done quickly with the engine running and within a narrow temperature range.
The ZF 5 speed box on the n/a cars requires Esso/Mobil longlife LT 71141 fluid also known as Lifeguard Fluid 5 and not conventional Dexron 3. The Mercedes gearbox in the supercharged version is also sealed for life but the same change requirement apply although you can use Dexron 3 in this box and it’s a less complex job to do. Some transmission specialists offer a flush and change service done via the oil cooler pipes which also gets the oil otherwise retained in the torque converter out.
The same applies to the rear axle. Oil should be changed but there’s no drain plug. Old oil has to be vacuum extracted out of the filler plug. Refill with a API GL5 75 or 85/90 oil
BODY, PAINT AND CORROSION
Look for corrosion on the rear wheel arches, round the front and rear screens especially underneath the screen rubbers in the bottom corners, bottom of the front wings and most importantly behind the front shocks on both sides. There's a reinforcing plate where the engine sub frame is bolted to the body rail and some cars have corroded badly here. This corrosion may also be visible in the engine compartment on the top of the body rail around the heads of the bolts that retain the top of the V mounts. It's an MOT fail too and a big welding job. Body and paintwork is otherwise pretty good however some darker coloured cars suffer from peeling lacquer. Bumper corners are susceptible to damage and bumper brackets can work loose.
Paint lacquer on the XJ is soft and easy to scratch with careless washing – don’t let a swirly, hazy or dull finish put you off though. Providing you can’t actually feel the damage and the paint colour underneath is OK it’s possible to restore the bodywork to a very good finish with a through clean, polish and wax. Stripe down body flanks if car has one is hand painted and not always completely straight.
INTERIOR
Always leather with different levels of trim and seat design. Wood trim clips on and is easy to change to different type. Drivers seat and steering wheels tend to suffer from wear. Headlinings can sag. LWB version obviously has more room in back.
SUSPENSION, TYRES AND BRAKES
X308s are hard on suspension and brakes, listen and feel very carefully for any clonking or knocking and make sure the car comes to a straight judder-free stop under both light and hard braking. A sharp rattle heard and felt through the steering over bumps combined with a little free play in the steering wheel may be a worn crush joint on the lower steering column.
A clattery rattle from the rear is likely to be failed shocks or shock bushes. X308s with weak rear A frame bushes will tend to self steer and wander about under hard acceleration.
Feel round all the tyres for uneven wear patterns; any suspension wear or bush failure giving incorrect geometry will cause tyres to feather oddly and heavy wear in the inside edges is a symptom of excess negative camber from wishbone bush failure. Very slight even feathering is normal, especially on the fronts.
All Jaguar XJs are very sensitive to wheel and tyre imbalances or damage, typically you'll feel a steering wobble between 50-70MPH and possibly vibration through the seat if there are any tyre problems or buckled wheels. Incorrect tyre pressures, worn out or cheap budget tyres will severely affect handling and ride. Some X308s exhibit a faint exhaust vibration or harmonic around 50 and another one at 65MPH. You might possibly experience a hint of driveline vibration through the body too.
Don't expect too much in the way of the legendary Jaguar ride quality either - it's pretty good on touring (black shocks) suspension and 16" wheels but sport suspension cars (green shocks) are stiffer and have a up rated front antiroll bar and one on the rear too which when combined with larger diameter wheels and lower profile tyres gives a hard crashy ride on poor roads. CATS suspension may be fitted as an option to any X308 CATS has electronically controlled valves in the shocks to vary the damping rates depending on driving style. Identify CATS by the presence of a plastic cover over the top of the front shock absorber with a lead going into it.
ELECTRICIAL/ OBD2 DIAGNOSTICS
Electrical systems are generally pretty robust. As with any old car you might have the odd problem so check absolutely everything works. Even the earliest X308 is OBD2 compliant and a £20 code reader plugged into the socket in the driver’s footwell will help diagnosis a lot. Electric aerials are vunerable, there are occasional O2 sensor, airflow meter and brake light switch failures.
XJ’s need a strong battery to avoid random error messages appearing on start up. If you get one – usually TRAC FAIL – the battery is on its way out or needs several days on a trickle charge to bring it back up to good capacity.
BUYING AND LIVING WITH AN XJ
Generally the 1998-2002 XJ8 is a strong car and capable of big mileages if maintained well and not abused or neglected. It's mostly easy enough to DIY and parts are reasonable and in good supply from several independents and the Jaguar Classic Parts scheme. Expect around 26/8 MPG on the motorway, 20/4 round town and mid teens or less if you nail it everywhere. Tyres are around £100/130 a corner in 16" diameter size. The 3.2 is quick enough (0-60 is 8s) the 4.0 is much rarer and does the same in 7.0.
One last thing. Starting an X308 to move it and then stopping it before the engine has warmed up enough to move the temperature gauge out of the blue section is likley to result in a flooded engine when you next go to start it. Avoid - it's sometimes a right performance to get it going again.
OVERVIEW
To avoid model confusion between the several XJ variants the 1997-2002 V8 engined XJ is often referred to by its factory designation as the X308. The V8 engine in the X308 is available in a 3.2, a 4.0 with VVT and a supercharged 4.0 and all versions are 5 speed auto only
£3000 should buy you a good example, but the best low mileage cars are priced at considerably more than that. Engines were revised in late 1999 for the 2000 model year to deal with early problems and the revised engine versions can be identified by a VIN number ending in five, not six digits.
Pre engine revision cars had weak water pumps, secondary timing chain tensioners, throttle bodies and a Nicasil coating directly on the aluminum cylinder walls rather than conventional liners pressed into the block.
ENGINE
Some Nicasil coatings suffered from bore erosion due to a combination of high Sulphur content fuel and short trips. Sulphur maximum allowable limits in petrol were lowered considerably in Jan 2000 so any pre 2000 Nicasil coated V8 engine that's still OK now should be fine forever. Several engines were changed under warranty so you may see a pre 2000 car with a later steel lined engine fitted - identify this by the presence of a green tag on the head at the back of the RH bank and the engine change should also be recorded in the history. Symptoms of bore erosion resulting in loss of compression are poor cold starting, a rough idle and heavy oil deposits in the breather system and air intakes. Crankcase pressure will be high too – a quick check is to slightly lift the oil filler cap at hot idle. There should be little or no internal pressure or fumes escaping. Jaguar dealers can perform a blowby check to determine engine condition. A good condition engine will show less than 25 l/m, anything over 40 l/m will make a good Top Gear coffee table.
Water pumps may loose efficiency and can be upgraded for the later version with a metal, not plastic impellor. Early impellors can disintegrate leading to overheating and potential head gasket failure.
The engine temperature gauge is not always an accurate refection of actual temperature. As a indication to water pump condition, remove the coolant header tank cap when the engine is stone cold, start up and gently increase engine speed. If the water pump is healthy you should see a steady stream of coolant into the tank from the thin return pipe that runs back from the front of the engine.
You may be able to identify the later type of pump by the presence of a black plastic, not metal gasket, but the only certain way is to remove the pump and have a look and if you’re doing that stick a new one on anyway and flush the system and renew the coolant. Sprung coolant hose clips can loose tension and allow pipes to blow off and some plastic parts on the hoses, unions and thermostat housing are delicate. It’s worth replacing all the sprung coolant clips with proper Jubilee ones. Check all over for evidence of coolant leaks, particularly around the thermostat/filler cap tower.
Occasional heater pump failures can lead to no heat output in the cabin at low engine RPM. Cycle the whole climate and a/c system through all vent operations and temperature range. Two types of coolant available for the XJ - don’t mix the later orange long life one with the earlier type.
Early throttle bodies ought to have all have been changed to the later design under a factory safety recall. Some of the early bodies suffered from weak/failing actuating motors causing to the engine to cut out completely on the overrun.
The only post 1999 revision engine issue is the secondary timing chain tensioners. These were revised to a mk 2 version at the same time as the rest of the engine revisions but the mk 2 type still had a plastic body which can crack or break up leading to slipped or broken chains. Mk 1 tensioners are actuated by engine oil pressure and failure can often be identified by a sharp rattling noise similar to a bicycle chain dragging on the chain guard on a cold start. The mk2 type is permanently tensioned by an integral spring which usually means it’ll fail silently.
A permanent solution is to retro-fit the later mk3 version tensioner with a metal, not plastic body from the later 4.2 incarnation of the V8 engine and the only way to be sure of which tensioners are fitted to an X308 is to either have a receipt with part numbers C2A1511 and C2A1512 and 4 new bolts on it relating to that particular car or remove the RH cam cover - the LH is a PITA to get off - and have a look. An orange (mk1) or cream (mk2) tensioner plastic body is bad news, a grey metal one (mk3) is good. The cam phasing on the V8 means the timing gear works hard and timing chains can stretch at high mileages or on neglected cars. If this is identified then a full chain and tensioner replacement is required costing up to £1000. If the chains are fine then it’s a wise precaution to fit the mk3 secondary tensioners which is a fairly easy DIY job. Tensioners cost around £75 a set plus a couple of quid for new bolts. Exhaust cam chains slipping one tooth – usually on a cold start - will give a rough running engine, more than one tooth means exhaust valves meet pistons. Cam setting tools for this job and all other special tools needed for any work on an X308 can all be hired from the Jaguar Enthusiasts’ Club.
GEARBOX/ DRIVELINE ISSUES
All X308s have a “sealed for life” gearbox. Loads have failed now - just look on ebay in the non runners or spares and repairs section. Any car that hesitates or engages Drive with a jerk or thump as the engine speed rises has a potential gearbox failure looming, changes should be seamless and quiet and you should be able to play tunes with the throttle, Sport switch and J gate selector.
A very faint whine may be heard in intermediate gears. Any gearbox problems or concerns are potentially serious. An oil and filter change may be all that’s needed to cure a gearbox malfunction but that’s never guaranteed.
Ideally the gearbox oil and filter should be changed at 50k then at 25k intervals; it's not a simple drain and refill on the ZF box as the final fill has to be done quickly with the engine running and within a narrow temperature range.
The ZF 5 speed box on the n/a cars requires Esso/Mobil longlife LT 71141 fluid also known as Lifeguard Fluid 5 and not conventional Dexron 3. The Mercedes gearbox in the supercharged version is also sealed for life but the same change requirement apply although you can use Dexron 3 in this box and it’s a less complex job to do. Some transmission specialists offer a flush and change service done via the oil cooler pipes which also gets the oil otherwise retained in the torque converter out.
The same applies to the rear axle. Oil should be changed but there’s no drain plug. Old oil has to be vacuum extracted out of the filler plug. Refill with a API GL5 75 or 85/90 oil
BODY, PAINT AND CORROSION
Look for corrosion on the rear wheel arches, round the front and rear screens especially underneath the screen rubbers in the bottom corners, bottom of the front wings and most importantly behind the front shocks on both sides. There's a reinforcing plate where the engine sub frame is bolted to the body rail and some cars have corroded badly here. This corrosion may also be visible in the engine compartment on the top of the body rail around the heads of the bolts that retain the top of the V mounts. It's an MOT fail too and a big welding job. Body and paintwork is otherwise pretty good however some darker coloured cars suffer from peeling lacquer. Bumper corners are susceptible to damage and bumper brackets can work loose.
Paint lacquer on the XJ is soft and easy to scratch with careless washing – don’t let a swirly, hazy or dull finish put you off though. Providing you can’t actually feel the damage and the paint colour underneath is OK it’s possible to restore the bodywork to a very good finish with a through clean, polish and wax. Stripe down body flanks if car has one is hand painted and not always completely straight.
INTERIOR
Always leather with different levels of trim and seat design. Wood trim clips on and is easy to change to different type. Drivers seat and steering wheels tend to suffer from wear. Headlinings can sag. LWB version obviously has more room in back.
SUSPENSION, TYRES AND BRAKES
X308s are hard on suspension and brakes, listen and feel very carefully for any clonking or knocking and make sure the car comes to a straight judder-free stop under both light and hard braking. A sharp rattle heard and felt through the steering over bumps combined with a little free play in the steering wheel may be a worn crush joint on the lower steering column.
A clattery rattle from the rear is likely to be failed shocks or shock bushes. X308s with weak rear A frame bushes will tend to self steer and wander about under hard acceleration.
Feel round all the tyres for uneven wear patterns; any suspension wear or bush failure giving incorrect geometry will cause tyres to feather oddly and heavy wear in the inside edges is a symptom of excess negative camber from wishbone bush failure. Very slight even feathering is normal, especially on the fronts.
All Jaguar XJs are very sensitive to wheel and tyre imbalances or damage, typically you'll feel a steering wobble between 50-70MPH and possibly vibration through the seat if there are any tyre problems or buckled wheels. Incorrect tyre pressures, worn out or cheap budget tyres will severely affect handling and ride. Some X308s exhibit a faint exhaust vibration or harmonic around 50 and another one at 65MPH. You might possibly experience a hint of driveline vibration through the body too.
Don't expect too much in the way of the legendary Jaguar ride quality either - it's pretty good on touring (black shocks) suspension and 16" wheels but sport suspension cars (green shocks) are stiffer and have a up rated front antiroll bar and one on the rear too which when combined with larger diameter wheels and lower profile tyres gives a hard crashy ride on poor roads. CATS suspension may be fitted as an option to any X308 CATS has electronically controlled valves in the shocks to vary the damping rates depending on driving style. Identify CATS by the presence of a plastic cover over the top of the front shock absorber with a lead going into it.
ELECTRICIAL/ OBD2 DIAGNOSTICS
Electrical systems are generally pretty robust. As with any old car you might have the odd problem so check absolutely everything works. Even the earliest X308 is OBD2 compliant and a £20 code reader plugged into the socket in the driver’s footwell will help diagnosis a lot. Electric aerials are vunerable, there are occasional O2 sensor, airflow meter and brake light switch failures.
XJ’s need a strong battery to avoid random error messages appearing on start up. If you get one – usually TRAC FAIL – the battery is on its way out or needs several days on a trickle charge to bring it back up to good capacity.
BUYING AND LIVING WITH AN XJ
Generally the 1998-2002 XJ8 is a strong car and capable of big mileages if maintained well and not abused or neglected. It's mostly easy enough to DIY and parts are reasonable and in good supply from several independents and the Jaguar Classic Parts scheme. Expect around 26/8 MPG on the motorway, 20/4 round town and mid teens or less if you nail it everywhere. Tyres are around £100/130 a corner in 16" diameter size. The 3.2 is quick enough (0-60 is 8s) the 4.0 is much rarer and does the same in 7.0.
One last thing. Starting an X308 to move it and then stopping it before the engine has warmed up enough to move the temperature gauge out of the blue section is likley to result in a flooded engine when you next go to start it. Avoid - it's sometimes a right performance to get it going again.
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