power distributor repair kit
Discussion
All,
Re my 997 turbo, i have been having trouble with the positive battery cable. Wiggle it and I lose battery and thus it won't start. My trusted porsche engineer is thinking about using a power distributor repair kit. Any idea what this is, what it does, how easy is it to put in, cost etc
Re my 997 turbo, i have been having trouble with the positive battery cable. Wiggle it and I lose battery and thus it won't start. My trusted porsche engineer is thinking about using a power distributor repair kit. Any idea what this is, what it does, how easy is it to put in, cost etc
The power distributor itself is a plastic fuse box that sits up on the firewall behind the dash. It takes the +12v cable from the battery, transfers it through the firewall and then spreads it into the wiring/main fuse box/etc via several screwed in 80A type fuses.
The repair kit includes a new distributor and fuses.
If you are losing power by wiggling the cable, have you checked the nut holding the opposite end of the battery cable from the battery is tight? The cable only runs to the firewall. It has an eyelet that is attached to the distributor by a nut. Its covered by a plastic cover that just pops off. Follow the cable from the battery to the firewall and you will see where it is.
Changing out the whole distributor is a faff. Would be much easier pre child labour laws
The repair kit includes a new distributor and fuses.
If you are losing power by wiggling the cable, have you checked the nut holding the opposite end of the battery cable from the battery is tight? The cable only runs to the firewall. It has an eyelet that is attached to the distributor by a nut. Its covered by a plastic cover that just pops off. Follow the cable from the battery to the firewall and you will see where it is.
Changing out the whole distributor is a faff. Would be much easier pre child labour laws
No nut type fixing on the 9x7 range - instead the connection is made by a peg and an interference fit collar (held on by a plastic clip) the collar (on the end of the +ve cable) is free to rotate around the peg - the peg and collar do corrode if the drains block and submerge the connection. Replacement is not too bad; unclip and replace the +ve cable, remove the board retaining nuts and push the board into the passenger footwell, undo the connections in the board and swap the new part in. There is a cable clip behind the heater box that is a PITA to get to but other than that 'simple'
To go slightly off topic, do they normally leave that box in that position on the race cars?
The reason I ask is that when I raced an early 996 Cup car in the Britcar 500 I got in for my stint and the car wouldn't start, motor wasn't turning. They didn't actually manage to fix it in the end (a bump start meant we got back out quicker) but I do know that they kept blowing a large fuse in a box somewhere way up behind the dash (I.e exactly where the white box is in the picture) and it occurred to me that it was a daft location for something you might need to access during a race.
The reason I ask is that when I raced an early 996 Cup car in the Britcar 500 I got in for my stint and the car wouldn't start, motor wasn't turning. They didn't actually manage to fix it in the end (a bump start meant we got back out quicker) but I do know that they kept blowing a large fuse in a box somewhere way up behind the dash (I.e exactly where the white box is in the picture) and it occurred to me that it was a daft location for something you might need to access during a race.
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