Technical stuff
Discussion
Right then...... Got a minor problem with my car, a high pitched squeal coming from the serpentine belt at he front of the engine... Anything over 3000 rpm is very embarrassing.
I've had this before, and managed to cure it with a liberal dose of silicon spray, but alas, 3 months down the road it's returned....
So, I gave Nick and Adam a ring at BM in Macclesfield, and asked for some advice..... The conclusion was I need to replace the lower idler pulley with an updated version. (It has 2 shoulders on it, whereas the original only has one).
And I may as well put a new belt on as well
If anyone is interested I'll do a video..... If not I won't waste my time.....
I've had this before, and managed to cure it with a liberal dose of silicon spray, but alas, 3 months down the road it's returned....
So, I gave Nick and Adam a ring at BM in Macclesfield, and asked for some advice..... The conclusion was I need to replace the lower idler pulley with an updated version. (It has 2 shoulders on it, whereas the original only has one).
And I may as well put a new belt on as well
If anyone is interested I'll do a video..... If not I won't waste my time..
...
I would suspect the screaching is the belt slipping and there can be a couple of causes for that. If the belt is old and the rubber hardened, there will be vastly reduced traction, and that will cause the slippage. Also once a reasonable belt has slipped for a short while, it will polish and then also lose traction.
The other main cause is very obviously insufficient tension and as I am unfamiliar with the V8V, I can only assume it has a sprung loaded tensioner. This would be my next suspect.
Unless the new pulley/idler IS the tensioner, then I assume the belt will cure the problem and the twin shoulders will stop the belt running sideways on the pulley.
If not, the new belt will still probably cure the fault, but you may still need the tensioner sooner rather than later.
The other main cause is very obviously insufficient tension and as I am unfamiliar with the V8V, I can only assume it has a sprung loaded tensioner. This would be my next suspect.
Unless the new pulley/idler IS the tensioner, then I assume the belt will cure the problem and the twin shoulders will stop the belt running sideways on the pulley.
If not, the new belt will still probably cure the fault, but you may still need the tensioner sooner rather than later.
Edited by 8Tech on Wednesday 23 October 18:12
As far as I understand it, it's not the belt slipping, but moving forwards and backwards on the pulley...it's able to do this, as although its a ribbed belt, its the smooth side that runs on this roller.... I suspect the tensioner and belt itself will be fine, on a 24k mile car..... I'm only changing the belt because its got to come off anyway, and they're cheap enough
It's quite a common issue on older cars hence the updated idler..... Newer cars don't suffer as hey already have the modified roller fitted
It's quite a common issue on older cars hence the updated idler..... Newer cars don't suffer as hey already have the modified roller fitted
Lunablack said:
Should I use sooty and sweep hand puppets to bring it up to your technical level of understanding??
That's not very nice mate....I was even going to pop down and 'star' in the video with you.This forum has certainly gone downhill, and not even a Porsche driver in sight
8Tech, I'll try and remember to get a side by side pic
in the meantime Part 1... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=--z7EXmpEd0&fea...
Bridge Mill said they'd do this job for around £60 quid + parts... which looking at it is very very reasonable
Most sensible folk would take em up on the offer, but I fancy doing it myself, so that's how its going to be
in the meantime Part 1... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=--z7EXmpEd0&fea...
Bridge Mill said they'd do this job for around £60 quid + parts... which looking at it is very very reasonable
Most sensible folk would take em up on the offer, but I fancy doing it myself, so that's how its going to be
Luna, I have actually just purchased the same parts as you to get this job done next week when my car is being serviced by an Indy.
On your drawing in the video you are proposing to change the idler pulley indicated with an asterisk.
I have printed off the parts diagram from the AM workshop manual (08MY 4.3).
When I look at this diagram Item number 10 on the diagram is part number 6G33-19A216-BA (Idler assy,drive belt).
Our new modified idler pulley we have both purchased is part number 9G33-19A216-AA (I am assuming this is the modified part, which replaces the above old part)
This is shown on the diagram in the AM workshop manual as being in a different position from the one you indicate to change on your video.
The position shown in the manual is identified on your drawing as "idler" nearer the left hand side of the engine.
The workshop manual also describes how to replace the idler and belt as detailed below
Battery isolation switch to off
Release the three clips and remove throttle body duct for access
Disconnect the two "quick fit" breather pipe connectors from the air cleaner duct
Release the tensioner and remove belt from idler
Remove the bolt that attaches the idler to the engine
Remove idler
The install instructions specify torque setting for this new bolt/idler when re-fitting as 34-36Nm
I was planning to get the Indy to also clean the throttle butterfly while carrying out the replacement idler since they will be disconnecting the throttle body duct for access.
I am not an expert but thought I would check this with you, as this is my interpretation of the parts to change
On your drawing in the video you are proposing to change the idler pulley indicated with an asterisk.
I have printed off the parts diagram from the AM workshop manual (08MY 4.3).
When I look at this diagram Item number 10 on the diagram is part number 6G33-19A216-BA (Idler assy,drive belt).
Our new modified idler pulley we have both purchased is part number 9G33-19A216-AA (I am assuming this is the modified part, which replaces the above old part)
This is shown on the diagram in the AM workshop manual as being in a different position from the one you indicate to change on your video.
The position shown in the manual is identified on your drawing as "idler" nearer the left hand side of the engine.
The workshop manual also describes how to replace the idler and belt as detailed below
Battery isolation switch to off
Release the three clips and remove throttle body duct for access
Disconnect the two "quick fit" breather pipe connectors from the air cleaner duct
Release the tensioner and remove belt from idler
Remove the bolt that attaches the idler to the engine
Remove idler
The install instructions specify torque setting for this new bolt/idler when re-fitting as 34-36Nm
I was planning to get the Indy to also clean the throttle butterfly while carrying out the replacement idler since they will be disconnecting the throttle body duct for access.
I am not an expert but thought I would check this with you, as this is my interpretation of the parts to change
Edited by Manwhoneverwas on Friday 25th October 06:13
Mmm.. I haven't looked at the workshop manual as its on my Laptop, I'll crank it up later and have a looksee...
But I've spoken to Bridge Mill and they assure me its the lower right idler that they always swap when this issue arrises..
they also confirmed that the mounting bolt is normal R/H Thread, and that they tighten to 40NM
But I've spoken to Bridge Mill and they assure me its the lower right idler that they always swap when this issue arrises..
they also confirmed that the mounting bolt is normal R/H Thread, and that they tighten to 40NM
Manwhoneverwas...... I've double checked that I'm changing the correct pulley, and it is indeed the lower right, whilst looking at the engine...
The part Number 9G33-19A216-AA, is in fact the part number for the lower right pulley on the 4.7 engine, so it looks as though to cure the issue, AM just used the part from the 4.7
Hope that clears things up a bit...
The part Number 9G33-19A216-AA, is in fact the part number for the lower right pulley on the 4.7 engine, so it looks as though to cure the issue, AM just used the part from the 4.7
Hope that clears things up a bit...
Lunablack..........Thank you for checking, I apologise if I caused any confusion.
But I thought it better to check with you.
I do not have a manual for the 4.7, so I based my assumption on the part numbers for the 4.3.
I was quoted £1,400 for a 6 year service on my V8 Vantage Roadster by the AM dealer and I chased them.
That price did not include for the idler and belt replacement.
The garage that will service my car next week is owned by a guy who has an Identical Roadster to mine, since I have helped him recenty on a project for his car he has offered to service the car for free if I supply the genuine AM parts.
The money I have saved on the service paid for the "brand new" V8 Vantage S wheels and tyres I purchased last week from AM Works on ebay. These will get fitted at the service.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200973356884?ssPageName=...
But I thought it better to check with you.
I do not have a manual for the 4.7, so I based my assumption on the part numbers for the 4.3.
I was quoted £1,400 for a 6 year service on my V8 Vantage Roadster by the AM dealer and I chased them.
That price did not include for the idler and belt replacement.
The garage that will service my car next week is owned by a guy who has an Identical Roadster to mine, since I have helped him recenty on a project for his car he has offered to service the car for free if I supply the genuine AM parts.
The money I have saved on the service paid for the "brand new" V8 Vantage S wheels and tyres I purchased last week from AM Works on ebay. These will get fitted at the service.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200973356884?ssPageName=...
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