Clutch master cylinder return spring - replacement found
Discussion
Normally, when the return spring breaks, it's new master cyl time as spares are not available from Girling despite seal kits being offered. Well, this will do the job - fitted one in a spare cylinder today and works a treat 
Associated Spring SPEC part no: C06000552750M
Associated Spring SPEC part no: C06000552750M
Oh well, looks like I will get to road test this replacement spring as my existing Girling one duly snapped today as they do, with typical great Christmas eve timing (how do they know?) Had built up a spare piston 'cartridge' with new spring and seal so will pop in after giving the m/cyl bore a clean up (think this will be the third rebuild of this cylinder - way less fiddly than changing the entire thing).
May also have a go at filling the pedal/clevis pivot hole with weld and re-drilling as noticed that has ovalled quite badly. Not sure how easy that's all going to be to get to post-turkey!
May also have a go at filling the pedal/clevis pivot hole with weld and re-drilling as noticed that has ovalled quite badly. Not sure how easy that's all going to be to get to post-turkey!
Surely time for a new cylinder, it's just an 0.7" Girling for which there are many generic quality copies available at very reasonable cost making a seal kit/ spring replacement a false economy to my mind.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Any Triumph parts specialist will have them on the shelf, just ask for a LHD TR6 0.7" clutch master cylinder and replace the rod with your TVR one, the RHD TR6 used a 0.75" bore but the left hand drive models have the 0.7" the Triumph part no being 154933.
Do check the pipe fitting thread size as they can differ, adapters are available, fitting a new clevis pin at the same time is advisable.
Once you've got the knack of doing it replacing the master cylinder on a Chimaera need take no longer than 30 minutes, a new master cylinder should last 10 years of regular use if you replace the fluid every 3 years.
Seal kits seldom last more than a year in an old cylinder because the bore is ally and scores really easily so will cut out your new seals in no time, you can improve this by honing with a set of sprung stones in a drill but why bother?
Just £40 and 30 minutes work gives you complete peace of mind the job is done properly will last, getting left at the side of the road without a clutch is no fun at all and will soon have you wishing you'd replaced the whole cylinder with a new one for just forty quid.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GIRLING-TYPE-INTEGRAL-MA...
http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/07-brake-and...
Merry Christmas to you all, Dave.
Yeah, rightOh FFS, whatever. This was a thread simply intended to help anyone wanting to refurb what's fitted at minimal cost and trouble, whilst substituting parts that are not available as spares with perfectly acceptable results. I know exactly how many bolts and unions are involved thanks, and the potential for it to get fiddly due to lack of access and thread variances. But be my guest and waste your time and a mate's, and change the f
king cylinder for the sake of a fatigued spring at ten times the cost!
king cylinder for the sake of a fatigued spring at ten times the cost! jamienshelly said:
With 2 people, 30 mins is easy, 2 bolts 1 union and then bleed !
Exactly, you just need a helpful assistant in the drivers footwell, 30 mins easy so almost as fast as you can say "Yeah Right" 
It may well be ten times the cost of a spring but ten times fek all still ain't much, I guess it all depends on what cost you put on doing the job properly in the first place.
Dave, you might prefer to change the cylinder and that's fine if you have the time and the inclination, but please desist with the self-righteous 'properly' bks that implies I'm suggesting a bodge or don't know what I'm doing with the spanners. As you well know, the seals fail for the fun of it and the springs are not far behind; never, in 13 years and 120+ k miles of home maintaining a Chimaera, have I found a m/cyl bore scored or worn such that it wouldn't be perfectly reusable. There will be exceptions of course and maybe when I dive in this time, this will be one. But my car, my call, my thread, my AA card (never used for a clutch failure mind), and I feel like sharing that experience and knowledge without being shouted down. Last word from me on the subject; see if you can resist a snide come back for once; call it a an early New Year Resolution...
ks that implies I'm suggesting a bodge or don't know what I'm doing with the spanners. As you well know, the seals fail for the fun of it and the springs are not far behind; never, in 13 years and 120+ k miles of home maintaining a Chimaera, have I found a m/cyl bore scored or worn such that it wouldn't be perfectly reusable. There will be exceptions of course and maybe when I dive in this time, this will be one. But my car, my call, my thread, my AA card (never used for a clutch failure mind), and I feel like sharing that experience and knowledge without being shouted down. Last word from me on the subject; see if you can resist a snide come back for once; call it a an early New Year Resolution...Pupp said:
Dave, you might prefer to change the cylinder and that's fine if you have the time and the inclination, but please desist with the self-righteous 'properly' bks that implies I'm suggesting a bodge or don't know what I'm doing with the spanners. As you well know, the seals fail for the fun of it and the springs are not far behind; never, in 13 years and 120+ k miles of home maintaining a Chimaera, have I found a m/cyl bore scored or worn such that it wouldn't be perfectly reusable. There will be exceptions of course and maybe when I dive in this time, this will be one. But my car, my call, my thread, my AA card (never used for a clutch failure mind), and I feel like sharing that experience and knowledge without being shouted down. Last word from me on the subject; see if you can resist a snide come back for once; call it a an early New Year Resolution...
Chill mate its Christmas, just making sure others know there's a proper way to do the job that's really not that costly or difficult.ks that implies I'm suggesting a bodge or don't know what I'm doing with the spanners. As you well know, the seals fail for the fun of it and the springs are not far behind; never, in 13 years and 120+ k miles of home maintaining a Chimaera, have I found a m/cyl bore scored or worn such that it wouldn't be perfectly reusable. There will be exceptions of course and maybe when I dive in this time, this will be one. But my car, my call, my thread, my AA card (never used for a clutch failure mind), and I feel like sharing that experience and knowledge without being shouted down. Last word from me on the subject; see if you can resist a snide come back for once; call it a an early New Year Resolution...Kit your cylinder by all means & fit an iffy spring that breaks to save a few quid if that floats your boat.
I can see Im getting up your nose but I assure that's not my intention, I'm simply offering information that others might find helpful.
Its genuinely well intentioned advice and not self righteous bolllloxs as you suggest.
Pride comes before a fall, but even that doesn't remove the fact that kitting and fitting a new spring (even a genuine one) in old Girling cylinders nearly always ends up as a false economy.
Others with less experience of these things might not know this, they might even think the £80 or more TVR specialists charge for a cylinder is the going rate.
But anyway, happy Christmas to you and all the TVR community, here's to a great 2015
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