Chassis done in situ.
Discussion
Just reading up on chassis work whilst looking at cerbs, I know of one for sale thats had the outriggers done but with the body in situ, so it's had holes cut in the floor to achieve the welding, it was done by a well known tvr company but I'm sure I've read somewhere that 'some' consider this NOT the way it should be done,
chassis experts out there ?
Thanks
chassis experts out there ?
Thanks
Can't see how you could do a reasonable job of this without lifting the body. I really don't like the idea of cutting holes in the body tub just to avoid the effort of lifting it either.
Call me paranoid, but in my book such bodgery is up there with Chinese tyres. What else has been done on the cheap? Even sticking with the chassis, the common area of corrosion around the exhaust manifolds can't have been investigated properly without stripping and shot blasting.
Just sounds an awful lot like a job you're going to have to do again properly, except the body tub has been hacked at. Worst case scenario is that the outriggers are tack-welded on and stuffed full of silicone to look like welds like that other one on here done "in situ" by a well known TVR specialist.
Call me paranoid, but in my book such bodgery is up there with Chinese tyres. What else has been done on the cheap? Even sticking with the chassis, the common area of corrosion around the exhaust manifolds can't have been investigated properly without stripping and shot blasting.
Just sounds an awful lot like a job you're going to have to do again properly, except the body tub has been hacked at. Worst case scenario is that the outriggers are tack-welded on and stuffed full of silicone to look like welds like that other one on here done "in situ" by a well known TVR specialist.
I've spoken to people about this. The front and rear have OK access to cut off and weld at/near the chassis but it's the centre tube that would be difficult. You can probably get just over half welded around the tube on it but the very top will be too tight. Perhaps that is where they cut holes in the tub.
the big problem is the most important and that is the front outer seat belt mounts the tube is recessed at the point they are attached and without cutting large amounts of glass away they are impossible to weld back on the new tubes properly have a gander at my cerb rebuild thread i have just lifted the body they are plain to see.
john
john
My outriggers were replaced in situ by Offords without cutting the body when I bought my Cerb as part of the deal with the original owner.
It is a really neat job and was done by cutting a rectangle from the underside of the old and new tubes where they join, about half the diameter of the tube and 3" long. The top half of the join can then be welded from underneath on the inside face of the tube through this aperture. A new, half section of tube was then cut to the exact size of the hole and welded in place to complete the full cross section. I hope this is clear from my explanation, but it looks like a clever way of doing the job without a body lift or hacking the body.
It is a really neat job and was done by cutting a rectangle from the underside of the old and new tubes where they join, about half the diameter of the tube and 3" long. The top half of the join can then be welded from underneath on the inside face of the tube through this aperture. A new, half section of tube was then cut to the exact size of the hole and welded in place to complete the full cross section. I hope this is clear from my explanation, but it looks like a clever way of doing the job without a body lift or hacking the body.
grovest said:
My outriggers were replaced in situ by Offords without cutting the body when I bought my Cerb as part of the deal with the original owner.
It is a really neat job and was done by cutting a rectangle from the underside of the old and new tubes where they join, about half the diameter of the tube and 3" long. The top half of the join can then be welded from underneath on the inside face of the tube through this aperture. A new, half section of tube was then cut to the exact size of the hole and welded in place to complete the full cross section. I hope this is clear from my explanation, but it looks like a clever way of doing the job without a body lift or hacking the body.
Sounds the best way I have heard with the body on.. Still leaves finishing/protecting as near impossible though, as you can't get to the top of the tube..It is a really neat job and was done by cutting a rectangle from the underside of the old and new tubes where they join, about half the diameter of the tube and 3" long. The top half of the join can then be welded from underneath on the inside face of the tube through this aperture. A new, half section of tube was then cut to the exact size of the hole and welded in place to complete the full cross section. I hope this is clear from my explanation, but it looks like a clever way of doing the job without a body lift or hacking the body.
Can you buy galv tube? Still the finish will be effected by welding..
Jhonno said:
Sounds the best way I have heard with the body on.. Still leaves finishing/protecting as near impossible though, as you can't get to the top of the tube..
Can you buy galv tube? Still the finish will be effected by welding..
I see what your saying about difficult to protect. But you rarely see heavy rot where the outriggers are supported, it is mainly in the corners and along the Sill's, could always do them in 316 stainless.Can you buy galv tube? Still the finish will be effected by welding..
phillpot said:
grovest said:
I hope this is clear from my explanation
One picture = 1000 words 
Its a great theory, but look at some of djstevec's chassis pictures to see how reality and theory of a body on outrigger replacement differ!
It is very obvious to anyone who has ever taken the body off a Cerb that it is categorically impossible to do a proper job of replacing outriggers then powder coating the repaired chassis with the body in situ.
Doing a partial body lift is quite easy & quite quick, with no specialist tools needed at all. It’s only the coolant & fuel you have to drain so you can remove the rad & disconnect the fuel pipes. Everything else can be left connected & it gives you good access to the outriggers. You can see how much access there is in the first part of my body off guide.
I think you’d be able to effectively weld on new outriggers like that & with a good coat of epoxy mastic it would be a good repair. Assuming the centre of the chassis is ok that is.
The only problem is once you’ve got that far it’s hard to resist the temptation to go for a full body off...
I think you’d be able to effectively weld on new outriggers like that & with a good coat of epoxy mastic it would be a good repair. Assuming the centre of the chassis is ok that is.
The only problem is once you’ve got that far it’s hard to resist the temptation to go for a full body off...
phillpot said:
Totally agree, not how I'd do it but just a "Blue Peter" type example of how I've read of others doing it on other TVR's
Its a good illustration of the idea. However if this had been done to my car I would be lifting the body to do a safe and proper repair instead because doing it this way at the very best is a bodge.The pictures here show the end result of this sort of body on outrigger replacement. Words fail!
djstevec said:
OK so.....a big day in the life of my Cerb!! 
With more help than I can ever thank them for, Tanguero and UKKID35 battled, pushed, pulled, cut, persuaded (with crow bars) and even swore (at least twice!!) during today's body off.
I can only admire how much these guys know and put into practice, but I hope I can learn half as much.
After getting the car into the state where I thought there was "one or two" minor jobs to finish off before separation, it turned into a 3-4 hour battle to get around the idiosyncrasies of Blackpool's finest car makers......but with persistence, an angle grinder and a hack saw or two, things eventually went from a whole car.....to two halves next to each other.
One of the most disconcerting sounds is the crunching of fibreglass as a breaker bar is being "gently" used to persuade the chassis to stop defying gravity and drop away from the car, however gently its being done, that crunch isnt nice!!
So a quick look over the chassis didn't show any significant further issues to the original chassis corrosion as per the main thrust of the thread....BUT....for those of you thinking a partial lift or body on outrigger replacement is possible, please take a note of the following pics, which were hidden from view by the body, and then make your own minds up.
rear wheel arch mating point to main outrigger,
same joint after silicon "bung" removed,
opposite side joint, same issue,
Maybe this sleeved rear member could do with a bit of welding,
Is it really that difficult to get all of the new sections lined up with the box section lower rail?? Seems so, if sliding a 5mm screwdriver into the gap is anything to go by...oh but only to one side...so thats ok right?
So that's all of today's work and new issues. Outriggers, although only 18 months or so old, will be coming off to be done properly. :-/
More to come Im sure, but thank you once again to Peter and Paul, you guys are superb
With more help than I can ever thank them for, Tanguero and UKKID35 battled, pushed, pulled, cut, persuaded (with crow bars) and even swore (at least twice!!) during today's body off.
I can only admire how much these guys know and put into practice, but I hope I can learn half as much.
After getting the car into the state where I thought there was "one or two" minor jobs to finish off before separation, it turned into a 3-4 hour battle to get around the idiosyncrasies of Blackpool's finest car makers......but with persistence, an angle grinder and a hack saw or two, things eventually went from a whole car.....to two halves next to each other.
One of the most disconcerting sounds is the crunching of fibreglass as a breaker bar is being "gently" used to persuade the chassis to stop defying gravity and drop away from the car, however gently its being done, that crunch isnt nice!!
So a quick look over the chassis didn't show any significant further issues to the original chassis corrosion as per the main thrust of the thread....BUT....for those of you thinking a partial lift or body on outrigger replacement is possible, please take a note of the following pics, which were hidden from view by the body, and then make your own minds up.
rear wheel arch mating point to main outrigger,
same joint after silicon "bung" removed,
opposite side joint, same issue,
Maybe this sleeved rear member could do with a bit of welding,
Is it really that difficult to get all of the new sections lined up with the box section lower rail?? Seems so, if sliding a 5mm screwdriver into the gap is anything to go by...oh but only to one side...so thats ok right?
So that's all of today's work and new issues. Outriggers, although only 18 months or so old, will be coming off to be done properly. :-/
More to come Im sure, but thank you once again to Peter and Paul, you guys are superb
Edited by djstevec on Sunday 2nd September 00:36
I wouldn't even consider a partial lift for outrigger replacement.
Cutting holes in the tub just doesn't sit right with me. You could do it but it's more agro than lifting the body if you do it properly!
The lift isn't that hard. Getting the engine out is usually more grief, much more to disconnect and awkward without a huge engine crane.
Cutting holes in the tub just doesn't sit right with me. You could do it but it's more agro than lifting the body if you do it properly!
The lift isn't that hard. Getting the engine out is usually more grief, much more to disconnect and awkward without a huge engine crane.
phillpot said:
One picture = 1000 words
Cheers, that's just it and worth every one! I couldn't think "bogroll" as the easy way of showing it!As for protecting the upper surface after the work I believe the body was released enough to make the space for safe welding and to permit treatment afterwards.
I guess full body off is the best long-term way of sorting a chassis, especially when the corrosion is extensive but on mine everything had been well looked after, just the outriggers had been missed as the damage was not immediately visible.
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