clutch master cylinder seal change....How?
Discussion
Hi guys as per the title.
I was removing all the pedal box today so took off the clutch master, basically to get it out of the way!
Anway removed the circlip and pushrod and popped the plunger out of the cylinder.
Now...how do you change the main seal just behind the piston? Can the spring etc be compressed and removed from the plunger, had a quick look and i am a bit baffled.
Any help or pointers appreciated.
I was removing all the pedal box today so took off the clutch master, basically to get it out of the way!
Anway removed the circlip and pushrod and popped the plunger out of the cylinder.
Now...how do you change the main seal just behind the piston? Can the spring etc be compressed and removed from the plunger, had a quick look and i am a bit baffled.
Any help or pointers appreciated.
Thanks guys. I found this on t'internet, quite usefull.
http://www.howacarworks.com/transmission/fitting-n...
http://www.howacarworks.com/transmission/fitting-n...
I'd definitely replace the cylinder with new if you can.
The problem with kitting a master or slave cylinder is the condition of the bore, and small imperfections in the bore will cut the seals apart in very little time.
The seal kit may take, or may not... but mostly what tends to happen is it'll work for a while then start to fail after 6 months or so.
You may get lucky, but TBH the odds are stacked against you unless you can hone the cylinder, and to do that you need it off the car so you may as well replace it.
You really dont want to be kitting a cylinder every 6 months.
Granted a seal kit is peanuts, but a new 0.7 Girling master cylinder should only be about £45 for a new old stock original or a perfectly good copy.
Just watch the pipe fitting when going with a new cylinder, check what you have now & check what you're buying has the same thread or you'll be into cutting & re-flaring the pipe to get the right fitting in place.
Only two bolts hold the cylinder to the car, but they are rather tricky to get to, I'm sure someone on here will give you some tips.
The other thing you'll need to do is use your existing push rod as lengths do vary, but this is as easy as removing a circlip.
Here's an 0.7 master cylinder for £40.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GIRLING-TYPE-INTEGRAL-MA...
Is it really worth messing about with seal kits if you can buy a brand new cylinder for £40?
I'd say not, others may disagree
The problem with kitting a master or slave cylinder is the condition of the bore, and small imperfections in the bore will cut the seals apart in very little time.
The seal kit may take, or may not... but mostly what tends to happen is it'll work for a while then start to fail after 6 months or so.
You may get lucky, but TBH the odds are stacked against you unless you can hone the cylinder, and to do that you need it off the car so you may as well replace it.
You really dont want to be kitting a cylinder every 6 months.
Granted a seal kit is peanuts, but a new 0.7 Girling master cylinder should only be about £45 for a new old stock original or a perfectly good copy.
Just watch the pipe fitting when going with a new cylinder, check what you have now & check what you're buying has the same thread or you'll be into cutting & re-flaring the pipe to get the right fitting in place.
Only two bolts hold the cylinder to the car, but they are rather tricky to get to, I'm sure someone on here will give you some tips.
The other thing you'll need to do is use your existing push rod as lengths do vary, but this is as easy as removing a circlip.
Here's an 0.7 master cylinder for £40.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GIRLING-TYPE-INTEGRAL-MA...
Is it really worth messing about with seal kits if you can buy a brand new cylinder for £40?
I'd say not, others may disagree
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