Fitting & Scribing a kitchen worktop - questions.
Discussion
Today I will be mostly building and trying not to f'up a temp kitchen 
. Skimmed the room myself too, god bless youtube!
What you now see here is 3 of Ikeas finest units, a 600mm base sandwiched between two 800mm. A induction hob is going in the middle with a pop up socket on the far left (into gap between base unit and wall).
Worktop is 3.5mm of solid Walnut over particleboard (what ever that is).Ignore the gap between the units
as was just seeing what the worktop looks like for now.
Ok, so on the top right side I have the following gap:
And on the left wall:
Questions:
1) There will tiles going around the worktop, not tiled before so a basic question- whats the max depth of tiles with the adhesive behind it and sealnt running at bottom of worktop? Suspect the 200mm on the left wall maybe too much, but do they go to 100mm so can skip scribing the back i.e. the gap to the back of the wall on the right side? or do I need to scribe both.
2) I need to cut the worktop, will be using a 18v Makita circular saw and straight edge. Bearing in mind the worktop material, do I need a better blade than the one that came with it?
3) Will be using a cheap jigsaw for the hob cutout, this one: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p68853
For purposes of the scribing, should I stick to the jigsaw or would a planer (electric?) be better and less likely to go wrong? If the jigsaw then should I use the blade that came with it or buy a better one.
Any other tips appreciated!
. Skimmed the room myself too, god bless youtube!What you now see here is 3 of Ikeas finest units, a 600mm base sandwiched between two 800mm. A induction hob is going in the middle with a pop up socket on the far left (into gap between base unit and wall).
Worktop is 3.5mm of solid Walnut over particleboard (what ever that is).Ignore the gap between the units
as was just seeing what the worktop looks like for now.
Ok, so on the top right side I have the following gap:
And on the left wall:
Questions:
1) There will tiles going around the worktop, not tiled before so a basic question- whats the max depth of tiles with the adhesive behind it and sealnt running at bottom of worktop? Suspect the 200mm on the left wall maybe too much, but do they go to 100mm so can skip scribing the back i.e. the gap to the back of the wall on the right side? or do I need to scribe both.
2) I need to cut the worktop, will be using a 18v Makita circular saw and straight edge. Bearing in mind the worktop material, do I need a better blade than the one that came with it?
3) Will be using a cheap jigsaw for the hob cutout, this one: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p68853
For purposes of the scribing, should I stick to the jigsaw or would a planer (electric?) be better and less likely to go wrong? If the jigsaw then should I use the blade that came with it or buy a better one.
Any other tips appreciated!
. Jobs going to be much easier than I though in that case.Is that the end of the worktop where its showing 20MM? If so you will need to scribe it.
If not, you'll see a 20MM gap on the front edge.
Jigsaw fine for cutting holes that arnt seen, so great for the hob cut out.
Got to ask. Why didnt you put an electrical socket in the wall before plastering, rather having one of those pop electrical sockets that take up space under the worktop?
If not, you'll see a 20MM gap on the front edge.
Jigsaw fine for cutting holes that arnt seen, so great for the hob cut out.
Got to ask. Why didnt you put an electrical socket in the wall before plastering, rather having one of those pop electrical sockets that take up space under the worktop?
Wozy68 said:
Is that the end of the worktop where its showing 20MM? If so you will need to scribe it.
If not, you'll see a 20MM gap on the front edge.
Jigsaw fine for cutting holes that arnt seen, so great for the hob cut out.
good point about the gap at front below tiles. What do you recommend toolwise to cut the scribe out with? I have a jigsaw, circular saw and a electric palm sander to hand. Worktop is 3.5mm wood over particleboard.If not, you'll see a 20MM gap on the front edge.
Jigsaw fine for cutting holes that arnt seen, so great for the hob cut out.
Happy to pop out and get a electric planer if better?
If the scribe needed is a straight cut, ie the wall is at an angle and not a curve then user the circular saw. I wouldn't want any more than about 5mm gap showing at the front and that amount anywhere else will be hidden with the tiles. If it's a couple of mm in certain places of the worktop that need trimming to fit the wall then use a planer.
When using the circular saw, cut the worktop from the underneath, (lay it face side down), set the blade to a little deeper than the thickness than the worktop, not its max depth and start the cut from the front edge. The blade that came with it should be okay as long as it's sharp.
Using the jigsaw for the hob etc, cut from the top incase the blade flexes at the bottom, a good jigsaw will have guide bearings behind the blade to stop this. If you have a plastic base plate for the jigsaw, use it, otherwise lay some masking tape down around the outside of the line you are cutting to protect the work top.
When using the circular saw, cut the worktop from the underneath, (lay it face side down), set the blade to a little deeper than the thickness than the worktop, not its max depth and start the cut from the front edge. The blade that came with it should be okay as long as it's sharp.
Using the jigsaw for the hob etc, cut from the top incase the blade flexes at the bottom, a good jigsaw will have guide bearings behind the blade to stop this. If you have a plastic base plate for the jigsaw, use it, otherwise lay some masking tape down around the outside of the line you are cutting to protect the work top.
Yazar said:
Wozy68 said:
Is that the end of the worktop where its showing 20MM? If so you will need to scribe it.
If not, you'll see a 20MM gap on the front edge.
Jigsaw fine for cutting holes that arnt seen, so great for the hob cut out.
good point about the gap at front below tiles. What do you recommend toolwise to cut the scribe out with? I have a jigsaw, circular saw and a electric palm sander to hand. Worktop is 3.5mm wood over particleboard.If not, you'll see a 20MM gap on the front edge.
Jigsaw fine for cutting holes that arnt seen, so great for the hob cut out.
Happy to pop out and get a electric planer if better?
Good jigsaw will cut it if it isnt straight.
Remember if your tiling the wall, its only the front edge thats important and finished nicely. So you do have some leaway with finish along the rest of the edge.
Personally you can risk it a bit on edge finish because of the tiles. So I would run a piece of masking tape along the end of the worktop, running your pencil scribe along it (The masking tapes there so you see your pencil line AND to help reduce worktop edge split out if using a jigsaw.) Just remember to GENTLY peel off the masking tape when you have finished or you can pull the grain up.
Many thanks both, will resume this later today or earlier tomorrow. Had to gripfill a few wall plugs in as the drill made a bigger hole than needed so need them to set (is that just old soft brickwork issue or my technique 
, used a sds drill on hammer).
Taken worktop back off now, but think the scribe at the left wall end is straight from the corner. also iirc the back one is 100mm out at back-right edge and a few mm at far back-left edge with flush in between.
Will have a practice go or two at the left first as I have spare length to play with and then go for it!
If I jigsaw than do I also need to cut from the bottom side of the worktop too? Or is that just for the saw.
Assuming if cutting from the bottom then need to get down and scribe from below too.
, used a sds drill on hammer). Taken worktop back off now, but think the scribe at the left wall end is straight from the corner. also iirc the back one is 100mm out at back-right edge and a few mm at far back-left edge with flush in between.
Will have a practice go or two at the left first as I have spare length to play with and then go for it!
If I jigsaw than do I also need to cut from the bottom side of the worktop too? Or is that just for the saw.
Assuming if cutting from the bottom then need to get down and scribe from below too.
I take it you have two pieces of worktop, one going to the left wall and one to the right and not trying to cut both ends of one piece??
Do you see the ends of the worktops at the other end to the wall or is it going against a tall cupboard or something? If they are seen and come with a finished wood edge, you want to try and keep that and not have to glue another edge trim on. This means pretty much cutting the length first time unless you are having a bit of an overhang on the length.
I think you are getting your mm mixed up 10/100mm! Unless you have a very angular kitchen.
Cutting with a jigsaw from the underneath would theoretically leave a cleaner cut on top, but bottom of jigsaw blades tend to wander, not so much a problem when cutting from the top and its the top surface that matters. The cuts are normally covered by tiles/hobs/sinks etc. You can buy laminate blades which cut on the downstroke to minimise chipping, but a sharp medium tooth blade should be okay. As mentioned earlier, a decent tool with guide rollers behind the blade helps.
If you need to scribe then use jigsaw from the top, if it's a matter of say 10mm to 25mm in a straight line off the edge then just measure and mark the underside, not forgetting it's upside down and maybe back to front. Measure and check and check again then cut!!!
Make sure when cutting that the worktop and what will be the off-cut is well supported and level to stop the end of the cut snapping off the edge. (obviously not the scribe overhang, but keep fingers clear if you intend to hold that offcut)
Do you see the ends of the worktops at the other end to the wall or is it going against a tall cupboard or something? If they are seen and come with a finished wood edge, you want to try and keep that and not have to glue another edge trim on. This means pretty much cutting the length first time unless you are having a bit of an overhang on the length.
I think you are getting your mm mixed up 10/100mm! Unless you have a very angular kitchen.
Cutting with a jigsaw from the underneath would theoretically leave a cleaner cut on top, but bottom of jigsaw blades tend to wander, not so much a problem when cutting from the top and its the top surface that matters. The cuts are normally covered by tiles/hobs/sinks etc. You can buy laminate blades which cut on the downstroke to minimise chipping, but a sharp medium tooth blade should be okay. As mentioned earlier, a decent tool with guide rollers behind the blade helps.
If you need to scribe then use jigsaw from the top, if it's a matter of say 10mm to 25mm in a straight line off the edge then just measure and mark the underside, not forgetting it's upside down and maybe back to front. Measure and check and check again then cut!!!
Make sure when cutting that the worktop and what will be the off-cut is well supported and level to stop the end of the cut snapping off the edge. (obviously not the scribe overhang, but keep fingers clear if you intend to hold that offcut)
1. Fit units, ensuring front edge is straight.
2. Place worktop on units and set parallel to fron edge of units.
3. Measure how much the worktop over hangs the units. Typically this will be 30-40mm, doors are approx 20mm, so giving a 10-20mm over hang.
4. You can then work out how much you can scribe off the back, remember it's the front that is most important. If the over hang is 50mm you can scribe 10-20mm.
5. Use masking tap on the back of the worktop, the use something the same thickness as you want to cut, to back mark off the wall onto the worktop. Tiles will cover a 8-10mm gap with out issue.
We would cut this with a hand saw from the top, as it is a downward cut, and easy to follow the pencil line. But then I have arms like Popeye!
2. Place worktop on units and set parallel to fron edge of units.
3. Measure how much the worktop over hangs the units. Typically this will be 30-40mm, doors are approx 20mm, so giving a 10-20mm over hang.
4. You can then work out how much you can scribe off the back, remember it's the front that is most important. If the over hang is 50mm you can scribe 10-20mm.
5. Use masking tap on the back of the worktop, the use something the same thickness as you want to cut, to back mark off the wall onto the worktop. Tiles will cover a 8-10mm gap with out issue.
We would cut this with a hand saw from the top, as it is a downward cut, and easy to follow the pencil line. But then I have arms like Popeye!
Much appreciated all 
may even try a handsaw.
Units come out 595mm and worktop is 635 so have some room to take off the 10mm from the back (side is the 20mm). Those crazy swedish ikea bods know everything!
Quick question- how much overhang should I leave on the right hand side, I.e. the end unit that isn't next to a wall? Thinking an arbitrary 25mm??
may even try a handsaw.Units come out 595mm and worktop is 635 so have some room to take off the 10mm from the back (side is the 20mm). Those crazy swedish ikea bods know everything!
Quick question- how much overhang should I leave on the right hand side, I.e. the end unit that isn't next to a wall? Thinking an arbitrary 25mm??
Edited by Yazar on Tuesday 10th February 19:35
Yazar said:
Quick question- how much overhang should I leave on the right hand side, I.e. the end unit that isn't next to a wall? Thinking an arbitrary 25mm??
We usually leave the same overhang on the end, as there is front overhang over the doors.Edited by Yazar on Tuesday 10th February 19:35
I've just fitted the exact same worktops. The one piece of advice I'd give is be very careful to avoid scratching or marking the worktop - we found the veneer to be worryingly soft - even a heavy handed pencil mark left an indentation in it. God knows how it will stand up to daily use.
As others have said, a jigsaw will be fine for the hob cutout as the edges of the hole will be hidden under the hob.
If you're really not confident about scribing the back of the worktop, an alternative solution might be to chase out the wall but it depends on its composition.
As for the overhang at the right hand end, it's up to you how much you leave. We allowed 20mm in case we subsequently decided to fit end cover panels, in which case there would be approx 5mm of overhang.
The veneer trims that come with the worktops seem to stick pretty well, just be careful when you sand them down to size.
As others have said, a jigsaw will be fine for the hob cutout as the edges of the hole will be hidden under the hob.
If you're really not confident about scribing the back of the worktop, an alternative solution might be to chase out the wall but it depends on its composition.
As for the overhang at the right hand end, it's up to you how much you leave. We allowed 20mm in case we subsequently decided to fit end cover panels, in which case there would be approx 5mm of overhang.
The veneer trims that come with the worktops seem to stick pretty well, just be careful when you sand them down to size.
Edited by Risotto on Wednesday 11th February 11:47
Neil - YVM said:
We usually leave the same overhang on the end, as there is front overhang over the doors.
Many Thanks will do that if don't for new plan.Had a another idea which I'm temped to go for, I saw an island where they had used the worktop as side panels and looked really good. So tempted to put a piece of worktop at the end vertical and flush with worktop as will look much better than the white melamine side.
Risotto said:
I've just fitted the exact same worktops. The one piece of advice I'd give is be very careful to avoid scratching or marking the worktop - we found the veneer to be worryingly soft - even a heavy handed pencil mark left an indentation in it. God knows how it will stand up to daily use.
You have excellent taste Lovely looking isn't it.Only just read this and was actually scraping the metal end of a measureing tape along it earlier and seemes ok, no scratches so far. I got two 246 lengths though, one is perfect, the other one has some minor marks at the front top join so agree it is soft, its being chopped up for the sink and dishwasher (weird placement until drains are moved).
Can I check which fronts you went for? As probably going for Grytnas but not fully decided.
Yazar said:
Many Thanks will do that if don't for new plan.
Had a another idea which I'm temped to go for, I saw an island where they had used the worktop as side panels and looked really good. So tempted to put a piece of worktop at the end vertical and flush with worktop as will look much better than the white melamine side.
I'm quite a fan of this, looks nice. The worktop kind of folds down to the floor.Had a another idea which I'm temped to go for, I saw an island where they had used the worktop as side panels and looked really good. So tempted to put a piece of worktop at the end vertical and flush with worktop as will look much better than the white melamine side.
Edited by Gingerbread Man on Wednesday 11th February 22:17
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