Mk1 Seat Leon Cupra R.
Discussion
I'm looking at getting one with the later BAM 225 engine in it.
Providing they've got full history with a belt/water pump done, is there any drawbacks at getting one with over 100k miles?
Are there any common upgrades that are worth doing (I know that fabia rear wiper is an upgrade over standard) or anything that I need to make sure I get with it?
Other than the cambelt/water pump, is there anything that I need to make sure has been done maintenance wise? Or is there any noises/feelings I should keep an ear/eye/feel for on a test drive of one?
Cheers guys!
Providing they've got full history with a belt/water pump done, is there any drawbacks at getting one with over 100k miles?
Are there any common upgrades that are worth doing (I know that fabia rear wiper is an upgrade over standard) or anything that I need to make sure I get with it?
Other than the cambelt/water pump, is there anything that I need to make sure has been done maintenance wise? Or is there any noises/feelings I should keep an ear/eye/feel for on a test drive of one?
Cheers guys!
If it has been on long-life servicing, then it is worth dropping the sump and checking the oil pump pick-up hasn't been filled with sludge. Obviously, that's only something you'd do after buying the car, but worth doing once you have. I think the K04 on the BAM engine tends to be fairly robust, but it is worth doing the usual checks you'd do when buying any turbo-charged car. I had a remapped 8L S3 from 15k until I sold it at 68k and it was pretty fault free other than the alternator.
Do some research into the gearboxes. I think it's the syncro which fails on them; I've also heard of issues with the bearings failing inside the box. A mechanic I know changed from a 8L Audi S3 to a mk1 Cupra R and had to rebuild the gearbox.
I don't know the ins and outs so do some further research as a precautionary.
I don't know the ins and outs so do some further research as a precautionary.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/2006-55-SEAT-LEON-C...
Looking at this one. and it looks like it's been serviced every year.
Looking at this one. and it looks like it's been serviced every year.
Can't speak for the Cupra R, but I've been running a 51 reg AUQ engined Cupra 180 as a daily for a couple of years now. Bought at 96k, now at 109k. It came with a full set of stamps, including a bill for a belt change a few years prior.
For its age I can't fault it. It has let me down three times: the first time was the battery (about £80), the second time was the exhaust rotting out (about £500 fitted, genuine middle and back sections, no non genuine standard alternative) and a coil went a few weeks ago (about £100 for 4 and new spark plugs at GSF, 15 minutes to fit). Also had a thermostat fail, so the engine was running to cool. Not really a breakdown, but it meant no heater to speak of and an increased appetite for petrol. This was about £80 to put right at my local garage.
One thing to watch out for is damp carpets - I believe this is quite common. The sealant used to seal the different parts of the doors rotted. Again, this was a simple job to replace with butyl and has not given any trouble since, but you do need a set of spanners and a trim removal tool.
I'm sure other things can go wrong, but they haven't yet on mine
For its age I can't fault it. It has let me down three times: the first time was the battery (about £80), the second time was the exhaust rotting out (about £500 fitted, genuine middle and back sections, no non genuine standard alternative) and a coil went a few weeks ago (about £100 for 4 and new spark plugs at GSF, 15 minutes to fit). Also had a thermostat fail, so the engine was running to cool. Not really a breakdown, but it meant no heater to speak of and an increased appetite for petrol. This was about £80 to put right at my local garage.
One thing to watch out for is damp carpets - I believe this is quite common. The sealant used to seal the different parts of the doors rotted. Again, this was a simple job to replace with butyl and has not given any trouble since, but you do need a set of spanners and a trim removal tool.
I'm sure other things can go wrong, but they haven't yet on mine
I had a 54 plate LCR for about 6 months. Had a stage 1 revo map on it so 265bhp (ish) and it was pretty damn rapid.
It was not a pleasant ride though. Very hard and the interior creaks and rattles drove me nuts. They also have a bit of an image problem so maybe not best suited to me at 38, ok for da yoof tho.
Only issues mine had were a sticking rear caliper (needed a new one), and a broken headlight clip which sounds like nothing but removing a headlight is a big job as the bumper has to come off. Fortunately you can get repair kits for the clips. One of those cars where the marque specific forum has all the answers to any question you'll ever had.
It was not a pleasant ride though. Very hard and the interior creaks and rattles drove me nuts. They also have a bit of an image problem so maybe not best suited to me at 38, ok for da yoof tho.
Only issues mine had were a sticking rear caliper (needed a new one), and a broken headlight clip which sounds like nothing but removing a headlight is a big job as the bumper has to come off. Fortunately you can get repair kits for the clips. One of those cars where the marque specific forum has all the answers to any question you'll ever had.
Ensure that the low speed fans work well. The resistors that run them will fail and leave you with not to cool A/C when standing and potentially other issues. Budget on them having failed unless there's been external resistors wired in (best fix) or new fans in the past two years(they will fail again at some point).
Door lock modules can also go nasty not knowing when the door is open or being unable to lock them all. My mk4 golf doesn't know when the drivers door is open, so needs a new one at some point.
Door lock modules can also go nasty not knowing when the door is open or being unable to lock them all. My mk4 golf doesn't know when the drivers door is open, so needs a new one at some point.
JakeT said:
Ensure that the low speed fans work well. The resistors that run them will fail and leave you with not to cool A/C when standing and potentially other issues. Budget on them having failed unless there's been external resistors wired in (best fix) or new fans in the past two years(they will fail again at some point).
This. Mine failed pretty quickly and the ones replaced under warranty failed again before I traded it in 18 months later. Loved the car though.I own a S3 8L with the same engine. It's on 102k miles now, bought it with 90k on the clock.
In the two years of ownership I've had all the suspension/wishbone bushes replaced as they were tired and the fronts were an MOT failure. I went for powerflex polys. Transformed the handling.
One of the front brake pipes had to be replaced, I went for braided.
I had it remapped at 92k (revo stage 1) which after 5k of driving showed up a tired clutch. I replaced the DMF and went for a sachs carbon clutch.
I also replaced the TIP for a badger5 80mm TIP. Most of the hoses I replaced for silicone ones as the rubber items were looking tired.
It's never let me down, the engine still pulls perfectly, just general consumables/wear and tear to think about which can add up. I know the Leon is lighter being FWD rather than the S3's haldex 4WD, so I'd imagine it's easier on the suspension/bushes.
In the two years of ownership I've had all the suspension/wishbone bushes replaced as they were tired and the fronts were an MOT failure. I went for powerflex polys. Transformed the handling.
One of the front brake pipes had to be replaced, I went for braided.
I had it remapped at 92k (revo stage 1) which after 5k of driving showed up a tired clutch. I replaced the DMF and went for a sachs carbon clutch.
I also replaced the TIP for a badger5 80mm TIP. Most of the hoses I replaced for silicone ones as the rubber items were looking tired.
It's never let me down, the engine still pulls perfectly, just general consumables/wear and tear to think about which can add up. I know the Leon is lighter being FWD rather than the S3's haldex 4WD, so I'd imagine it's easier on the suspension/bushes.
Here are some buying guides, including PH guide.
http://www.pistonheads.com/features/ph-buying-guid...
http://www.evo.co.uk/buying/buyingguide/289801/sea...
Functional upgrades that are popular.
Engine: basic Remap stage 1 +-265 BHP, turbo intake pipe, exhaust, Cat back or full 3" inch. kit cold air intake, hybrid turbo, FMIC etc.
Drivetrain: polybush engine mounts, short shift kit
Suspension: rear ARB replacement, polybushings, Bilstein / KW suspension kits, drilled or grooved disks
http://www.pistonheads.com/features/ph-buying-guid...
http://www.evo.co.uk/buying/buyingguide/289801/sea...
Functional upgrades that are popular.
Engine: basic Remap stage 1 +-265 BHP, turbo intake pipe, exhaust, Cat back or full 3" inch. kit cold air intake, hybrid turbo, FMIC etc.
Drivetrain: polybush engine mounts, short shift kit
Suspension: rear ARB replacement, polybushings, Bilstein / KW suspension kits, drilled or grooved disks
Edited by QuantumTokoloshi on Wednesday 24th June 15:45
I don't mind wielding a spanner, and the door sills and such are something I'm aware of, but doesn't turn me off of them.
I understand the ride is hard, my car rides like it's got bricks for springs. I know the splitter is a prone to damage because it's quite low, but is it low enough (standard) to need to go at speed bumps slowly, or angle them?
I understand the ride is hard, my car rides like it's got bricks for springs. I know the splitter is a prone to damage because it's quite low, but is it low enough (standard) to need to go at speed bumps slowly, or angle them?
I strongly suggest avoiding yellow cars, as the paint lacquer is know to go milky and then detach. My old yellow Leon was a horrible mess when I sold it...
Door locking modules fail but replacement is DIY-able and there's a good guide on VW Vortex for this. The modules can be bought for around £25 on eBay.
The slow-speed mode on my AC fans failed as stated above and the fans cost about £400 when they were replaced under warranty.
Watch for leaks into the footwell - water marks, damage or condensation - as the metal inner door panels have a foam seal around their edges where they attach to the main door and this is know to leak. The solution is to loosen the inner door panel (does not need to be removed entirely) and seal with silicone.
Can't comment on engine issues as mine was a diesel.
Check out seatcupra.net for loads more information.
Door locking modules fail but replacement is DIY-able and there's a good guide on VW Vortex for this. The modules can be bought for around £25 on eBay.
The slow-speed mode on my AC fans failed as stated above and the fans cost about £400 when they were replaced under warranty.
Watch for leaks into the footwell - water marks, damage or condensation - as the metal inner door panels have a foam seal around their edges where they attach to the main door and this is know to leak. The solution is to loosen the inner door panel (does not need to be removed entirely) and seal with silicone.
Can't comment on engine issues as mine was a diesel.
Check out seatcupra.net for loads more information.
R2T2 said:
I don't mind wielding a spanner, and the door sills and such are something I'm aware of, but doesn't turn me off of them.
I understand the ride is hard, my car rides like it's got bricks for springs. I know the splitter is a prone to damage because it's quite low, but is it low enough (standard) to need to go at speed bumps slowly, or angle them?
The ride is not unpleasantly hard as standard, it is firm but reasonably compliant.I understand the ride is hard, my car rides like it's got bricks for springs. I know the splitter is a prone to damage because it's quite low, but is it low enough (standard) to need to go at speed bumps slowly, or angle them?
You need to look at the splitter as a consumable item, they will catch on large speed bumps etc. but are cheap to replace every few years, and the car is not so low as to make it difficult to live with.
QuantumTokoloshi said:
Here are some buying guides, including PH guide.
http://www.pistonheads.com/features/ph-buying-guid...
http://www.evo.co.uk/buying/buyingguide/289801/sea...
Functional upgrades that are popular.
Engine: basic Remap stage 1 +-265 BHP, turbo intake pipe, exhaust, Cat back or full 3" inch. kit cold air intake, hybrid turbo, FMIC etc.
Drivetrain: polybush engine mounts, short shift kit
Suspension: rear ARB replacement, polybushings, Bilstein / KW suspension kits, drilled or grooved disks
Thanks for the guides, I've just had a look at those! http://www.pistonheads.com/features/ph-buying-guid...
http://www.evo.co.uk/buying/buyingguide/289801/sea...
Functional upgrades that are popular.
Engine: basic Remap stage 1 +-265 BHP, turbo intake pipe, exhaust, Cat back or full 3" inch. kit cold air intake, hybrid turbo, FMIC etc.
Drivetrain: polybush engine mounts, short shift kit
Suspension: rear ARB replacement, polybushings, Bilstein / KW suspension kits, drilled or grooved disks
Edited by QuantumTokoloshi on Wednesday 24th June 15:45
RE the brakes, most i've looked at the Brembo Calipers are a littled faded, so I'd repaint/re-lacquer them and put on some grooved discs with some fast road type pads.
If I buy a high mile one (looking more likely) I will end up refreshing the suspension all road with new dampers/springs/bottom arms with uprated parts. I don't want a massive drop and use it daily so I'll probably go for spring/dampers, probably Koni/Bilstein or something like that.
Performance wise, i'll probably go 3" turboback with high flow cat, but a little louder than stock.
Revo map it (maybe APR instead)
Possibly drop an LSD into it too.
and keep it properly serviced.
Obligatary PH sticker!
wife ran one for 4 years, loved every minute of it.
hers was rather modified though, full turbo back system including decat and some aggressive mapping giving 287 bhp and 325 lbs/ft torque driven hard by both me and her never gave us a bit of trouble bar needing a clutch and flywheel at 110k other than that not even a coil pack.
great fun cars that handle well and stop well and go well from the factory.
only thing to watch out for is water ingress they are a bugger for it. door seals and bulkhead being the main culprits and watch out if you buy an ovni yellow one the paint fade is a bugger
hers was rather modified though, full turbo back system including decat and some aggressive mapping giving 287 bhp and 325 lbs/ft torque driven hard by both me and her never gave us a bit of trouble bar needing a clutch and flywheel at 110k other than that not even a coil pack.
great fun cars that handle well and stop well and go well from the factory.
only thing to watch out for is water ingress they are a bugger for it. door seals and bulkhead being the main culprits and watch out if you buy an ovni yellow one the paint fade is a bugger
Awesome!
I know this is PH and I will probably need to hand in my membership on the way out but, what's the rear visibility like on them? My current has has rear parking sensors, and I know it's made me lazy.
Is it a nightmare, or for £20-30, is it worth retrofitting them?
Also; most of the Cupra's I see have faded red calipers. Is it worth refurbing them at the time, or just paint and relacquer them?
I know this is PH and I will probably need to hand in my membership on the way out but, what's the rear visibility like on them? My current has has rear parking sensors, and I know it's made me lazy.
Is it a nightmare, or for £20-30, is it worth retrofitting them?
Also; most of the Cupra's I see have faded red calipers. Is it worth refurbing them at the time, or just paint and relacquer them?
Whilst I don't have the Cupra R I do have a mk1 Leon. In terms of body shape the car is the same but the bumpers will be longer, lower & possibly wider. We're talking millimetres here so nothing drastic. Rear visibility is not great but the car is still easy to park. If you can be bothered to put the sensors in then go for it seeing as its so cheap but they're would definitely be a luxury installation.
R2T2 said:
Awesome!
I know this is PH and I will probably need to hand in my membership on the way out but, what's the rear visibility like on them? My current has has rear parking sensors, and I know it's made me lazy.
Is it a nightmare, or for £20-30, is it worth retrofitting them?
Also; most of the Cupra's I see have faded red calipers. Is it worth refurbing them at the time, or just paint and relacquer them?
Rear visibility is not ideal due to the high back but you adjust to it and leave a little more safety margin.I know this is PH and I will probably need to hand in my membership on the way out but, what's the rear visibility like on them? My current has has rear parking sensors, and I know it's made me lazy.
Is it a nightmare, or for £20-30, is it worth retrofitting them?
Also; most of the Cupra's I see have faded red calipers. Is it worth refurbing them at the time, or just paint and relacquer them?
Caliper are an easy spruce up. There is a good guide on seatcupra.net which I used, the stickers can be bought on eBay.
Gassing Station | General Gassing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff