Sticking plasterboard to plastic and metal

Sticking plasterboard to plastic and metal

Author
Discussion

GriffG

Original Poster:

1,512 posts

92 months

Monday 13th November 2017
quotequote all
What do you guys recommend using to stick plasterboard to my internal window reveals? I’ve got the foam insulation inserts down the sides and metal lintal on top, and I can’t plaster directly to these so need to stick platerboard to them before the plasterer starts

Thought about using foam but it would expand and mess it up won’t it?

timbobalob

357 posts

255 months

Monday 13th November 2017
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Would gripfill do it? It only needs one surface to be porous as I understand

GriffG

Original Poster:

1,512 posts

92 months

Monday 13th November 2017
quotequote all
timbobalob said:
Would gripfill do it? It only needs one surface to be porous as I understand
Not sure, I’ll google gripfill now! Cheers

227bhp

10,203 posts

141 months

Monday 13th November 2017
quotequote all
Board adhesive will do for the lintel and sides to masonry, but not to plastic. Gripfill sounds ok, but you'll have to use the bound edge of the board. We used to stick it like that then drill holes and inject foam in after, it'll never come off if you use that stuff.

bingybongy

3,992 posts

159 months

olimain

984 posts

148 months

Monday 13th November 2017
quotequote all
I've tried a load of these adhesives, gripfill, pinkgrip, sticks like **** etc. but recently discovered CT1. It's expensive but haven't come across anything anywhere near as good. It will stick virtually anything to virtually anything, even underwater.

AlmostUseful

3,299 posts

213 months

Monday 13th November 2017
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I found Wickes solvent based adhesive to work well when sticking plasterboard to steel beams in my kitchen - I figure solvent is generally best for everything unless it melts it.


GriffG

Original Poster:

1,512 posts

92 months

Monday 13th November 2017
quotequote all
Thanks for your advice guys, seems like a few possibilities!

Cheers

Gtom

1,712 posts

145 months

Monday 13th November 2017
quotequote all
Bad, bad advice!

Put some small-ish screws in to the plastic cavity closers, leave approx 1/2" sticking out to act as something for the foam to grab hold of.

Use gun grade expanding foam, Screwfix's no nonsense stuff is pretty much bang on for this, it cure's very quickly and doesn't go crazy when expanding.

Do the head first and then the sides, the sides will hold up the head although you may need a sprag in the middle.

You can then fire a couple of screws in to the plasterboard on the sides to get the plastic just to hold everything nice until the foam sets, which should be about 30 minutes.

Remember use GUN GRADE FOAM you have loads more control than the nozzle on a can stuff.

Please don't use gripfill/pinkgrip or anything such like, it won't work.

Fore Left

1,560 posts

195 months

Monday 13th November 2017
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Toolstation do one specifically for plasterboard

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p99304?searchstr=...

Gtom

1,712 posts

145 months

Monday 13th November 2017
quotequote all
That stuff will work just fine.

Ahbefive

11,657 posts

185 months

Monday 13th November 2017
quotequote all
Febond Blue grit. Paint it on and it provides a key to then use normal plasterboard adhesive on. This is the correct thing to use.

GriffG

Original Poster:

1,512 posts

92 months

Monday 13th November 2017
quotequote all
Gtom said:
Bad, bad advice!

Put some small-ish screws in to the plastic cavity closers, leave approx 1/2" sticking out to act as something for the foam to grab hold of.

Use gun grade expanding foam, Screwfix's no nonsense stuff is pretty much bang on for this, it cure's very quickly and doesn't go crazy when expanding.

Do the head first and then the sides, the sides will hold up the head although you may need a sprag in the middle.

You can then fire a couple of screws in to the plasterboard on the sides to get the plastic just to hold everything nice until the foam sets, which should be about 30 minutes.

Remember use GUN GRADE FOAM you have loads more control than the nozzle on a can stuff.

Please don't use gripfill/pinkgrip or anything such like, it won't work.
What do you mean by doing the head first and a sprag (do you mean spray) in the middle? I’m a diyer! Lol

Half inch is still quite far out? And will screwing into the plastic after sticking it on move it about a lot??

What about the lintel? Will it hold onto metal whilst upside down?

227bhp

10,203 posts

141 months

Monday 13th November 2017
quotequote all
Head = top.
I think he means a prop in the middle.

A picture of the situation would be great.....

wolfracesonic

8,024 posts

140 months

Monday 13th November 2017
quotequote all
Ahbefive said:
Febond Blue grit. Paint it on and it provides a key to then use normal plasterboard adhesive on. This is the correct thing to use.
I'd go with this, plus use an thin insulated plasterboard, especially for under the metal lintel. Not heard 'sprag' used for a long time!

V8RX7

28,490 posts

276 months

Monday 13th November 2017
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All the (new build) plasterers I know simply use board adhesive - they will either 100% butter the board or will use a tiling trowel




Gtom

1,712 posts

145 months

Monday 13th November 2017
quotequote all






1/2" is the generally accepted thickness of the gap between the wall and the back of the plasterboard when sticking plasterboards.

Putting Blue grit will work fine before hand but at £20+ tub for 10L it's a bit of an overkill for one window reveal. Likewise using board adhesive really, a 25kg bag is about the same as the above mentioned foam but you will use about a tenth of a bag and it's a messy affair mixing it and cleaning up afterwards.

If I'm boarding a full room out I will use board adhesive because I have it. If I'm just doing a reveal I will use foam because it's quicker, cheaper, less messy and far less hassle which is what I'm sure you are after.

GriffG

Original Poster:

1,512 posts

92 months

Monday 13th November 2017
quotequote all
I’ve got 4 windows to do, two are 2m wide one small landing, and one 1m square as in the picture


V8RX7

28,490 posts

276 months

Monday 13th November 2017
quotequote all
Remember to fit the window boards before he comes

(assuming you're having them)

Gtom

1,712 posts

145 months

Monday 13th November 2017
quotequote all
Just dab them all on with board adhesive then if it's all bare blockwork.

And as mentioned window boards on first. Gripfill IS fine (I still use foam because it is quicker and cheaper) for doing this so long as us use packers to level the cill first.