Porsche Boxster (986): PH Used Buying Guide
All the boxes to tick when in the market for Porsche's revolutionary roadster
The same holds true today for that first 986 generation of Boxster and a used example still offers fine driving interaction coupled to affordable running costs. You have to choose carefully, though, as cheap Boxsters often come with cheapskate owners.
On the upside, there are plenty to choose from, so finding a decent one might take a few viewings, but they are out there. The lowest cost ones will be less than £3,000, but reckon on spending from £4,000 and early 2.5- and 2.7-litre cars are there for the taking.
That was addressed in 1999 with the arrival of the 220hp 2.7-litre motor to replace the 2.5 and, more importantly, the launch of the S model with its 256hp 3.2-litre unit. Here was a Boxster that lived up to the looks and chassis.
Service history is important with any used performance car, but don't get too worked up if invoices are missing from many years ago with a Boxster. Much more important is to look for evidence of recent care and attention at specialists. With many reputable specialists out there, this shouldn't difficult and you'll end up with a roadster that still puts plenty of the latest kit to shame.
Search for Porsche Boxsters (986) here
Bodywork and interior
Any corrosion points to accident damage that has not been properly repaired. Best to look for another car if you spot rust.
Check the condition of the hood carefully. Replacements are expensive, but a cloudy rear screen can be swapped for around £250.
Look for any damp inside the cabin as a pointer to blocked drain channels for the hood. These are easy to clean and clear out and this prevents water getting into an ECU mounted behind the seats.
Peer behind the front bumper at the condition of the radiators for the engine and air conditioning. They get covered in road debris and corrode, so factor this into the price if they look scruffy. This work will be needed every eight years or so and costs around £1,200.
Open the rear lid and check under the boot carpet for any damp. If there is, the coolant tank is the likely culprit and needs to be replaced. A new one is around £225 from Porsche.
Engine and transmission
Rough running is most likely a faulty ignition coil pack. They degrade with heat but are easy and affordable to replace.
Mention the 986 Boxster and every pub bore will instantly regale you with horror stories of the intermediate shaft (IMS) bearing. It's much less of a problem than the internet doom-mongers will have you believe though. Earlier 986s are less prone to this problem as they use a dual-row IMS bearing. Cars from 2000 switched to a single row bearing and this is more likely to fail. Check the service record for this being replaced, ideally with an uprated bearing from a recognised specialist. If you're not sure, budget for this in the price you pay and reckon on replacing the clutch at the same time when the engine is out, which will cost around £1000 for parts and labour.
The rear main oil seal can and does leak on the 986's engine. A very minor leak can wait until you need to drop the engine to swap the clutch, but a more persistent drip should have you walking away.
Cracked cylinder bores can occur but are hard to spot. If you can access the engine, look for 'mayonnaise' in the oil. Also keep an eye on the engine temperature as cracked bores lead to overheating. The only sure way to know if the bore liners are cracked is to have a specialist inspect the motor.
Gearboxes are strong, but look for evidence of fluid changes in the service history.
The VarioCam's chain tensioner guide can wear and fail, letting metal fragments into the engine's oil. It's a difficult problem to spot, but be wary of any car with gaps in its routine service history. Replacing the guides with uprated items is straightforward.
The mass airflow sensors can give up and cause a hesitation when accelerating. Replacements are around £150.
Cars with low mileages may have sat for prolonged periods and this can be bad for seals, so look for signs of leaks.
Check that the battery cranks the starter motor quickly. Cars that have been left standing will have weak batteries.
Suspension and steering
Like its 911 sibling, the 986 suffers from worn front suspension bushes. They are easy and cheap to replace and need doing around every five years.
Other clunks from the suspension are likely to be from a broken coil spring.
Wheels, tyres and brakes
Original is best when it comes to wheels. Many Boxsters have been fitted with later and larger wheels, but they can cause problems with alignment and put more strain on the suspension bushes.
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SPECIFICATION - PORSCHE BOXSTER 986
Engine: 2,480/2,687/3,179cc
Transmission: 5/6-speed manual/auto
Power (hp): 204/220/256@/6000/6400/6250rpm
Torque (lb ft): 177/192/225@5000/4750/4500rpm
MPG: 31.7/28.5/26.9
CO2: 239/264/255g/km
Price new: £31,475/35,000/£43,497
Price now: £3,000 upwards
In terms of handling and interaction, they were lightyears ahead of their competitors. But in terms of interior design, reliability and refinement they were a decade behind.
On the right road at the right time, they really are a very special bit of kit. That variocam 3.2 is an absolute peach and felt very strong for 252 bhp, and the noise was a revelation. By modern standards, there is so much feedback through the steering it is almost disconcerting until you get used to it. I know its a cliche but you really do feel every undulation and imperfection in the road surface.
But cheap ones are cheap for a reason, and can quickly turn into a false economy even if you do your own spannering. They are a relatively complex beast built down to a budget. Parts prices are okay but a lot of the foibles mentioned in the article are a case of 'when' and not 'if', so try and get one with them already sorted. Especially the clutch!
Rather than turn mine into a labour of love, i've since swapped it for a 987.2 which is quicker, better built and more economical - but the 986 was a delightfully old-school car that felt very, very special indeed.
I think I’ve owned mine through their most derided period and they’re starting to get a bit more appreciated again now. As it’s not an every day car I don’t miss the creature comforts that modern cars now offer. I have no idea what I’d replace it with if I ever chose to sell.
Bought for £2,800, had to replace the front brake discs and pads (£120), front and rear drop links (£15 a pop), front suspension arms (£70 a side), air conditioning condensers (£100 a pair, a hour to fit) and a MAF (£150 Bosch).
If you can work on them yourself they are cheap to maintain. Just don't take it to a main dealer (They wanted £1200 for the condensers)
Get the alignment setup properly and they are a great steer, I preferred mine to the 996 Carrera I owned previously.
... to glibly say of the potential IMS bearing issue, "It's much less of a problem than the internet doom-mongers will have you believe though" completely ignores a failure's effect. It may be rare but it is catastrophic, with it being enough to write off any sub-£8K car. With a friend's example - a 3.2S - the engine was scrap and it is hard to imagine anything less. Used engine plus, rework and precautionary new bearing plus labour is typically £5K+.
I am still tempted but I'd budget for upgrading the bearing at time of purchase.
Bought for £2,800, had to replace the front brake discs and pads (£120), front and rear drop links (£15 a pop), front suspension arms (£70 a side), air conditioning condensers (£100 a pair, a hour to fit) and a MAF (£150 Bosch).
If you can work on them yourself they are cheap to maintain. Just don't take it to a main dealer (They wanted £1200 for the condensers)
Get the alignment setup properly and they are a great steer, I preferred mine to the 996 Carrera I owned previously.
I ran a 01' 3.2s as a daily for 3 years and enjoyed every mundane drive to the office! In a hasty moment I sold it to fund a new house, instantly regretted it. I managed only 6 months before I bought another.
Now 6 years into running a '04 facelift 3.2 as a weekend fun car.
I can't bring myself to sell it so its now a keeper. Cars have come and gone but the Box remains...there is just something special about the depth of chassis ability, engine power delivery and the balance between raw thrills and usability.
I'm not trying to be deliberately contentious, but its a factor for newbee owners to consider. Its not as if you can pop the bonnet and tinker with the lump straight away.
Suspension / brakes no problem at all, and I agree the component quality is high.
In terms of handling and interaction, they were lightyears ahead of their competitors. But in terms of interior design, reliability and refinement they were a decade behind.
And yes, one has to stay away from OPC for maintenance/service on these cars. They might take your kidney, and would even try to re-mortgage your house for a small repair.
https://www.historics.co.uk/buying/auctions/2017-1...
Be interested to see if others think overpriced...?
https://www.historics.co.uk/buying/auctions/2017-1...
Be interested to see if others think overpriced...?
I’ve been looking for an early 987, but must admit, I’m being swayed by an early 2000s 986s (around the £7-8k mark). They look very good value for money.
I’ve been looking for an early 987, but must admit, I’m being swayed by an early 2000s 986s (around the £7-8k mark). They look very good value for money.
The thread (linked above, currently at 188 pages) is well worth a read as theres a lot of content from lots of us who have these cars.
A few things to add from myself:
Bear in mind that from the B-post forward, this is the same car as the contemporary 911. The suspension components are all cast aluminium not pressed steel, the fasteners, clips, pipework and looms etc are all good quality.
The car lends itself to home running if you are a keen/competent mechanic. Access to the engine is by no means 'easy' but equally there are many front engined cars that are considerably trickier. From underneath all basic servicing is a doddle, and all engine ancillaries are accesible through the access hatch in the cabin.
Exhaust, Gearbox and clutch, for instance, are a lot easier to access then just about any regular FWD hatchback.
Be in no doubt that the purchase price is just the start, but even accounting for this, they are still fantastic value.
My car now has had a full bumper to bumper suspension rebuild, alignment, good tyres etc. It is absolutely fantastic to drive.
I am not a sensible person most of the time but I think I would have to opt for a 350Z or S2000 for that money.
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