e91 320d Remote central locking not working

[Origin Unknown]

Neither of the two key fobs will remotely lock or unlock the car. Well documented fault with under rated fuses (this car was manufactured 2008/01 so fuses in 76/77) - neither blown although both rated at 15amp.

Disconnected battery for 30 mins after messing about with fuses. No resolution.

Central locking button on centre console functions and can lock/unlock using the key inside the door fob. Opening doors post locking with key triggers alarm but deactivates when key inserted into dash. Both keys allow car to start.

Any ideas what next or off to the indy?

[Origin Unknown]

Can't edit title - its an e91 not e90.

[clarkson22]

Check the diversity module under the spoiler on the boot mate it's a common problem mine has gone let's water in , google e91 diversity module for diy dude

[Origin Unknown]

Cheers mate. Is there a way of checking it or do I have the right symptoms to make this clear cut diversity module fault?

[Origin Unknown]

Changing the diversity access module did not solve the problem. Looking at the old one, there was no evidence of water ingress but I've left the new one in there for the time being.

Chances of both key fob batteries dying at the same time seem remote. It's non-comfort access so I can't open them and change these and they are supposed to recharge while in the dash.

Unsure what to do now, any ideas?

[PDP76]

I’d be checking the wiring at the top of the tailgate glass. The wires get crushed and can/do break over time. Cut open the rubber cover and check.

[Origin Unknown]

Thanks PDP76!

[croselli]

Hello - can I check if/how the above issue was sorted?

I have exactly the same problem (2006 car, so a bit older).

I have checked the voltage coming into the diversity module using the method in the post below:
https://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f9/2005-e91-n...

Some of the wires detailed in the post above do NOT have voltage, so I would conclude that the divesrity module is OK and the issue is in the wiring.

However I dread the thought of slashing the rubber sleeve, hoping to find the broken wire...
If i do go ahead, is there a specific section I should open where the wire is most likely to have broken?

thanks

[Origin Unknown]

I can't guarantee that broken wires are the root cause. Having changed the diversity module and finding this didn't solve the issue, opening up the sleeve did expose the issue.

I fixed this, had an inspection 2 carried out and changed both rear tyres within a couple of weeks of buying it. It then shat it's timing chain almost immediately after.

Listed as spares or repair on eBay and got the original cost minus the above back on it.

The world continued to turn.

[croselli]

Thanks again for your help.

In terms of which part of the sleeve to slash open (and hopefully locate the damaged wire) - which part do you advise I start with? A, B, C or D in the picture?

A and B are taken with only the rear window open.

C and D are taken with the whole tailgate open.

Many thanks again for the advice!

[Origin Unknown]

If you look at my picture above, B was the break point on mine. If you google image search the problem, it's seems reasonably consistent as the break point. Good luck.

[The Big G]

There is also a ribbon cable that runs from the diversity module to the aerial in the rear screen on the e91. This can fail, as it did on mine and gives the same symptoms. Ie, no central locking! This cable is part of the rear screen and not able to be replaced separately as far as I understand. I sourced a second hand screen but a lot of them had broken cables! The breakers would cut them to remove the diversity module more easily rendering the screen useless.

Good luck with fixing it, lots of issues with the wiring to the tailgate. Standard BMW wiring quality

[croselli]

Thanks very much all for your advice – I am happy that I was able to solve the issue – at the grand cost of about £10.

Below is a summary of my specific situation and what I tried to solve it until I found the issue – hopefully someone will find it useful.
Car: BMW 325i Touring (2006)
Issue(s):
1) A few months ago the RADIO reception deteriorated: The radio would work when the car was standing still, but as soon you would drive off, reception would go and the station sounded garbled (with hindsight, this was when some of the wires snapped)
2) A few days ago, the remote control stopped working. NOTE: I read that some people experienced a “reduction” int the range of the remote, but in my case it went from working perfectly to not working at all (with hindsight, this was when other wires snapped)

What I tried to do:
1) Disconnected car battery for 1h, in the hope it would “reset” the remote - No luck
2) Checked for broken fuses (see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nrVZaKeO5fs) - No Luck
3) Check the Diversity Antenna. I removed the spoiler and was able to access the Diversity Antenna. I did NOT remove it, but I disconnected the right-and-side plug as per post (https://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f9/2005-e91-next-no-radio-reception-diagnosis-help-please-t352153/) and tested it with a MultiTester. In my case I had no voltage in 3 out of the 4 wires (see image below). The fact that so many of the wires seemed “dead” made me worried that I had made a mistake in testing them, but later all this made sense

[url]

4) At this point I decided to slash the rubber sleeve. Following the advice that I was given in this Forum, I cut in point “B” below, and – sure enough – 3 wires were broken.

|https://thumbsnap.com/mC0c4Quw[/url][url]


For the repair, I bought a Crimping Tool, Butt Connectors (red), some Gauge 22 Wire, and some Self-Amalgamating Tape. My work may not be very elegant (see below) but it was OK to do for me and both the issues are sorted (i.e. Remote Control works + radio reception went back to normal). I hope the repair will out-last the car….

Thanks again for suggestions!

|https://thumbsnap.com/RzafbX8V[/url][url]

|https://thumbsnap.com/s2N1uoY8[/url]

[url]

[Gabrieldinca]

Hello there good people. I need help with my 320d e91 . I take of the battery of the car for 20 minutes and after this car become crazy. Central lock not working . Lights not working .signals not working . I reset from the dash bord still the same . What can I do please

[adamgent]

Excellent post - thank you so much.

I had the same issue and found this post, sure enough, same problem.

I fixed the cables with the heat-shink solder connectors you can get on Amazon and Ebay. I forgot to take a photo after I repaired the broken wires and taped it back up. This was the first time I had used the heat-shring connectors and was really pleased with them. They give a nice low-profile fix, less bulky than bullet connectors, and maintain some flexibility.

This post saved the time and expense of ordering a new diversity module only to find out that it wouldn't have fixed it!

[Cjhayes]

Great thread.
I have a 2011 e91.
Central locking stopped working yesterday.
I tried the usual fuses to no avail.
Found this thread and remembered I'd opened the rear window the day before. Don't use it usually as it no longer stays up!!
Cut back cover in area 'B' and 1 wire broken. This was the yellow and red wire. Joined back together and all working.
Thanks for the help

[F6rge4477]

Me too.... had the same problem central locking just stopped working
Cut the rubber gaiter D in the pics above and found a thin blue and red wire broken
Re soldered it and all's working fine.

Thanks to all those that posted info

[R2]

Hi all,

I have a 2011 E91 320d. Similar issue as described above, I have no central locking from Key fobs. I have also checked the voltages on the Diversity Antenna connector, again similar to you I have no voltage on the Blue/Yellow Wire.

The order and status of investigation.

1- Radio, rear glass screen demister, windscreen washer and wiper, tail gate and hatch locks all work fine. Central locking all works from the dash button. Driver door unlocks with the blade key.
2- Checked all fuses, twice - None blown and all good.
3- Removed tailgate spoiler and checked Diversity Antenna (DA) - No water damage, clean looking board. Checked all connectors were clean and seated.
4- Moved the rubber gaiter around and central locking was sporadically working whilst all assembled. (Started to suspect broken wires)
5- Cut the rubber gaiter/boot expecting to find a broken wire. Did not find one. Taped up the boot/gaiter with self amalgamating tape.
6- Took photos of the DA part number and ordered a used part from ebay.
7- Fitted new (used) Diversity Antenna when it arrived - No change, central locking still does not work.
8- Disassembled everything again. Swopped the replacement DA with the original DA. Re-examined the wires in the cut rubber boot/gaiter.
9- Took of the tape covering the DA wiring harness up to the plug. Do brakes or damage.
10- To look at the wiring deeper into the car, I removed plastic trim and headliner a bit. I did a continuity test from further in to the wiring under the headlining to the connector and got a continuity signal.
11- Checked voltages on DA loom at the connector. Only issue I could find is the blue/yellow wire is 0v and should be +4.4v
Red/Yellow +12V Supply
Blue/Yellow - 0v Comfort access control module, should be about +4.4V / Data
Blue/Red - CAS Data line, should be about +4.6V. Key fob data sent to CAS
Black/Red - Car activated 11V

12- Ran out of time so reassembled everything again as wife needed car.

At a loss as what to do now. I suspect the DA is good and its an issue with the Blue/Yellow wire. I cant find any information on where this comes from. Does anyone know where the other end comes from and can it be easily accessed. I want to try to do a continuity check from end to end. It feels unlikely it would brake somewhere else and not at the infamous point on the tailgate gaiter.

Any help, guidance at all would be very much appreciated.


Kind Regards

Mark