ZX6R G1 with some running issues...
Discussion
I recently bought a 1998 ZX6R G1 with low miles (11k); it has suffered some maintenance neglect though, and runs rough despite the low miles. Cars are my forte, so bikes are still a learning curve. But here's some of my symptoms:
Cold starts without choke. It will not start with the choke. Floods easily. 'Likes a drop of oil' according to the previous owner. Runs quiet and non-tappety in my opinion, but will not get past 6000rpm in top gear when warm, running like it's not getting enough fuel.
My action plan is:
Service it (oil, filters & plugs). I guess the plugs will tell me a lot.
Balance the carbs. I don't have a balancer, and would need to read up on the method. Am I better paying someone for this? Will the carbs need removing/cleaning/rejetting (in anyone's opinion) or should they be maintenance free?
The oil issue... I guess this could be any worn part (piston rings / bores / valve seals) - how do I diagnose - or is this an engine strip-down? I can live with it for now if I get the bike running right, but realise it may never run right if it's burning oil.
Aside from these issues, the stem bearing also needs replacement; this looks straightforward so will definitely get this done once the running issues are sorted.
All opinions / issues are welcome.
Cold starts without choke. It will not start with the choke. Floods easily. 'Likes a drop of oil' according to the previous owner. Runs quiet and non-tappety in my opinion, but will not get past 6000rpm in top gear when warm, running like it's not getting enough fuel.
My action plan is:
Service it (oil, filters & plugs). I guess the plugs will tell me a lot.
Balance the carbs. I don't have a balancer, and would need to read up on the method. Am I better paying someone for this? Will the carbs need removing/cleaning/rejetting (in anyone's opinion) or should they be maintenance free?
The oil issue... I guess this could be any worn part (piston rings / bores / valve seals) - how do I diagnose - or is this an engine strip-down? I can live with it for now if I get the bike running right, but realise it may never run right if it's burning oil.
Aside from these issues, the stem bearing also needs replacement; this looks straightforward so will definitely get this done once the running issues are sorted.
All opinions / issues are welcome.
If it starts without choke it's Rich definitely on Idle low throttle. Also if it's rich all through the rev range this could also affect the running/revving. One thing to check is there is 'Y' tube that goes from the front of the fairing to the carbs to equalise the the air pressure due to the RAM air affect, if this has become disconnected it will stop it revving out as you mention.
And another point, you says it runs smoothly and not tappet, these engines are shim under bucket to set the valve gaps and tend to close up the gap over time not open up. So really quiet can mean the gaps have closed, this can lead to valve burning and will affect performance and starting. From memory clearance check should be every 12k miles. may be worth checking. If they need adjusting its a cams out job.
Thanks all. I don't know how much of an oil thirst it has. The level was ok when I set off for home, and the bike hasn't moved since.
I've seen a set of carbs on ebay that have been cleaned - and balanced. Surely balancing has to be done on the bike?
I'll start a teardown soon & see what I discover - but thanks for the pointers so far.
I've seen a set of carbs on ebay that have been cleaned - and balanced. Surely balancing has to be done on the bike?
I'll start a teardown soon & see what I discover - but thanks for the pointers so far.
Quick update; I swapped the carbs out for a known good set today, and it's purring nicely. Needed choke to start cold, warmed up quickly, and idled nicely. I set the warm idle to 1300rpm, and took it for a quick run - pulled superbly & no effort keeping it running.
Does anyone have any recommendations for carb balancing? All the tubes are there & very accessible, so I might do that soon.
I put the battery on charge while I was doing the carbs, no harm to have it winter-fit.
I'll service it soon (particularly given it's been running rich for so long) then have the valve clearances checked by my local bike shop.
It's a lovely bike to work on, everything comes apart nicely. Loving it!
Does anyone have any recommendations for carb balancing? All the tubes are there & very accessible, so I might do that soon.
I put the battery on charge while I was doing the carbs, no harm to have it winter-fit.
I'll service it soon (particularly given it's been running rich for so long) then have the valve clearances checked by my local bike shop.
It's a lovely bike to work on, everything comes apart nicely. Loving it!
Edited by BFleming on Saturday 26th October 18:08
The best colour........
How do you find it without the hugger, what have you got as a chain guard.
You might want to ditch the rubber lines that are on it. Hel normally do fifty percent off a week before Xmas so hold off to then if you do.
They're also bringing out radial axial adapters so you'll be able to fit modern calipers to it, replace those god awful three pots. I've been looking all night to see what brembos I could get her.
Carbtune are best for syncing carbs. About £70.
You've also a good selection of tasteful exhausts for the bike.
Best to run it with tap off till she dies if your going to store it over the winter.
P.s. we should meet up get a ninja photos xxx
I'm so excited
So it's my second ZX6R G1 in this colour scheme; I bought R586VEY from a friend of a friend back in 2002/3, and traded it in a couple of years later - which I shouldn't have done. So I was on the lookout for another one, and this came up, so I thought 'why not?'.
Regarding the hugger/chain guard, this is literally how the bike came to me, I'll have to get one for it. I hadn't even realised it was missing until you said it. Any recommendations?
I hate the brakes on these, although my 'fast' days are behind me, so I think they'll do. New fluid required, as it looks like it has never been changed. Thanks for the HEL tip, I'll look out for that.
I also have to do the lumpy steering head bearing too. It has a current MOT, but I'm not 100% sure how.
Regarding the hugger/chain guard, this is literally how the bike came to me, I'll have to get one for it. I hadn't even realised it was missing until you said it. Any recommendations?
I hate the brakes on these, although my 'fast' days are behind me, so I think they'll do. New fluid required, as it looks like it has never been changed. Thanks for the HEL tip, I'll look out for that.
I also have to do the lumpy steering head bearing too. It has a current MOT, but I'm not 100% sure how.
Edited by BFleming on Sunday 27th October 09:48
king spoon Some carb balancing in progress:
Running so much better, starts on choke but quickly evens out to a nice idle. Not sure if I mentioned, but I picked up a secondhand throttle body set, so swapped out the original one. Just for ease for now.
Next job is the steering bearing. I have the parts, but ironically not much time at the moment!
Running so much better, starts on choke but quickly evens out to a nice idle. Not sure if I mentioned, but I picked up a secondhand throttle body set, so swapped out the original one. Just for ease for now.
Next job is the steering bearing. I have the parts, but ironically not much time at the moment!
Steering bearing now completed, today I renewed the brake pads & fluid, as well as the LH switch cluster (the high beam flash wasn't working). All went well (some pics below). But I spotted this lonely vacuum hose when I removed the fuel tank. Any ideas? Doesn't look like it has ever been attached to anything. My Haynes manual says it should be connected to a vacuum valve switch, but I don't have one (no sign I ever did). Anyone?
Some brake pictures:
Some brake pictures:
The vacuum valve is the cylinder in your picture - its part of the 'Kleen' air system to reduce emissions. The disconnected pipe should connect the dome on the vacuum valve assy to 2 of your cylinders on the inlet side - this would have been where you connected your carb balancing kit.
Some people remove the whole Kleen air system, plug the inlet connectors and either blank or cross connect the two main connections. No advantage in power or economy but removal will cause soot deposits to build up in your down pipes. That said, some owners swear it makes the engine idle and run smoother at low revs.
Some people remove the whole Kleen air system, plug the inlet connectors and either blank or cross connect the two main connections. No advantage in power or economy but removal will cause soot deposits to build up in your down pipes. That said, some owners swear it makes the engine idle and run smoother at low revs.
Edited by Instant Cynicism on Saturday 9th May 19:36
Instant Cynicism said:
The vacuum valve is the cylinder in your picture - its part of the 'Kleen' air system to reduce emissions. The disconnected pipe should connect the dome on the vacuum valve assy to 2 of your cylinders on the inlet side - this would have been where you connected your carb balancing kit.
Some people remove the whole Kleen air system, plug the inlet connectors and either blank or cross connect the two main connections. No advantage in power or economy but removal will cause soot deposits to build up in your down pipes. That said, some owners swear it makes the engine idle and run smoother at low revs.
That's great info. From when I balanced the carbs a little while ago I had to remove the caps from the balancing tubes. Granted, this pipe would just about reach the centre pair of tubes. But all the caps were in place, no sign anything was missing there. I have some adapter pieces, so not a big deal to connect it up.Some people remove the whole Kleen air system, plug the inlet connectors and either blank or cross connect the two main connections. No advantage in power or economy but removal will cause soot deposits to build up in your down pipes. That said, some owners swear it makes the engine idle and run smoother at low revs.
Sounds like a previous owner has been doing some tinkering with the carbs before you. Factory fit should be a blanking screw on cylinders 2 and 3 and a narrow steel tube screwed into cylinders 1 and 4 with a rubber pipe each that goes to a t piece. The t piece is what will connect to the other end of your mystery pipe.
I've got a zx9r which has an identical arrangement. I've replaced the blanking screws with brass adapter tubes and capped them to make future carb balancing less of a faff. I've left the Kleen air kit in place on the bike but I do quite a few miles and would prefer not to have additional soot building up in the exhaust/ down pipes.
If the Kleen air wasn't connected up properly when you bought the bike that would have contributed to rough running at idle. If you don't do many miles you could just bin the whole lot. A quick Google will reveal what needs to be blanked and what needs to be cross connected and if you've managed to work on your carbs without drama this will be a piece of cake
I've got a zx9r which has an identical arrangement. I've replaced the blanking screws with brass adapter tubes and capped them to make future carb balancing less of a faff. I've left the Kleen air kit in place on the bike but I do quite a few miles and would prefer not to have additional soot building up in the exhaust/ down pipes.
If the Kleen air wasn't connected up properly when you bought the bike that would have contributed to rough running at idle. If you don't do many miles you could just bin the whole lot. A quick Google will reveal what needs to be blanked and what needs to be cross connected and if you've managed to work on your carbs without drama this will be a piece of cake
Crikey! I bought one of these in Green, brand new. A grey import in 98.
Brilliant handling.
Easiest bike ever to put your knee down. Exceptionally fast for a 600.
Did a lot of track days on it.
At the time I ran it on Dunlop 207 GP's front and rear.
Sold it 18 months in and bought a RGV 250.
Definitely put braided hoses on the front and keep the calipers well serviced.
I used Carbon Lorain pads (spelling).
Race can sounded great, but the original can drove much better (weighed a ton though)!
Brilliant handling.
Easiest bike ever to put your knee down. Exceptionally fast for a 600.
Did a lot of track days on it.
At the time I ran it on Dunlop 207 GP's front and rear.
Sold it 18 months in and bought a RGV 250.
Definitely put braided hoses on the front and keep the calipers well serviced.
I used Carbon Lorain pads (spelling).
Race can sounded great, but the original can drove much better (weighed a ton though)!
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