Rover Gauge
Rover Gauge
Author
Discussion

l10tus

Original Poster:

65 posts

60 months

Saturday 5th September 2020
quotequote all
I'm a newby to TVR world, so just wondering what a Rover Gauge Is?

I guess it's a form of OBD reader, if so, where can I obtain one and how does it work, pls?

Replies greatfully received,

PAT

ITVRI

198 posts

198 months

Saturday 5th September 2020
quotequote all
Rover gauge is a tool you can use to help diagnose engine issues including fault codes for your Rover V8 running the 14CUX ECU.
It’s windows based but there is also an android version.
You need this cable below.
https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/8598352?cI...

Download and more info from here
https://github.com/colinbourassa/rovergauge

More information here

http://www.remap-14cux.uk/gadgets.html

And here

https://www.v8register.net/FilesRV8WN/160921-RV8-d...

Plus loads more examples and info on pistonheads.

blitzracing

6,414 posts

236 months

Saturday 5th September 2020
quotequote all
I' done a bit about it here- end of the page. The page is a little out of date and RoverGauge has moved on, but all the basics are there.



http://www.g33.co.uk/pages/technical-fuel-injectio...

l10tus

Original Poster:

65 posts

60 months

Saturday 5th September 2020
quotequote all
Gents,
Thanks for the in-depth replies, much appreciated.

I'll be sourcing the cable and software asap.

Not sure if it's ok to post this here? - but I have a couple of issues with my 1994 Chimaera, any suggestions would be appreciated!

I am a newby to TVR's, having only driven 80 miles home, since collecting the car about 2 weeks ago.

The mainly motorway (M6) drive home on the hottest day of the year, was pretty uneventful.

Water Temp never over 90° and the car ran well at high speed, however (!) - the clutch pumping due to congestion between J5 - J10 was plagued with either complete intermittant ignition cut-out or no fuel issues.(?)

Sometimes noted on this forum as maybe "shunting" ? - but I feel this was actually caused by the engine "cutting-out" briefly, at clutch take up or low revs pull away, in the queing traffic.

Not a very pleasurable experience!

The fuel gauge hardly seemed to move from showing full, at all.

When I arrived home it seemed to indicate that I'd used a third of a tank of gas.

The car was booked in for some garage hoist time, to try to establish the cause of the cutting out and also the massive 'clunk' some where in the drive train, when it did.

I duly drove the car to the garage some 10 miles away, but the session was called off due to localised flooding at the garage premises.

On the way home it was like a "bucking bronco" - stop starting, at low speeds. (With the now, inevitable clunk from the rear)!

I noticed at this point, that the fuel gauge was very low (only 20 miles since last parked up!) And the low fuel lamp in the gauge appeared not to have illuminated at all.

Thinking I was out of fuel and not able to even make the nearest garage, I managed to coax it home (rolled part way down a local hill) - convinced it was a fuel issue.

I used 4 gallons out of a Jerry can to top up and planned to get it filled with Super Unleaded today.

The car started fine and ticked over great.

Filled up at the local garage (but only 34 litres to brim it?), where the car was up to normal temp.

Started the car but it immediately died, attempted cranking it another 10 times, with the same result, fired, tick over for 3 seconds then stopped.

I eventually managed 20 yards, but the engine cut again!

Finally the car started and I revved it hard, it pulled away hesitantly but the drove home pretty ok.

It missed a couple of shunts on the final few hundred yards, at low speed, but got me home.

Ignition / fuel pump issues?? (Or any other suggestions???)

Any replies / thoughts greatly appreciated as it's not reliable enough to drive like this.

(It was a private sale)

Many thanks in anticipation,

Phil.


O mage

229 posts

63 months

Saturday 5th September 2020
quotequote all
You could start by waggle testing the birds nest and afm harness one suffers from rising damp and the other from rising heat check battery connections are tight and earths to chassis.

l10tus

Original Poster:

65 posts

60 months

Sunday 6th September 2020
quotequote all
Gents,
Thanks for the in-depth replies, much appreciated.

I'll be sourcing the cable and software asap.

Not sure if it's ok to post this here? - but I have a couple of issues with my 1994 Chimaera, any suggestions would be appreciated!

I am a newby to TVR's, having only driven 80 miles home, since collecting the car about 2 weeks ago.

The mainly motorway (M6) drive home on the hottest day of the year, was pretty uneventful.

Water Temp never over 90° and the car ran well at high speed, however (!) - the clutch pumping due to congestion between J5 - J10 was plagued with either complete intermittant ignition cut-out or no fuel issues.(?)

Sometimes noted on this forum as maybe "shunting" ? - but I feel this was actually caused by the engine "cutting-out" briefly, at clutch take up or low revs pull away, in the queing traffic.

Not a very pleasurable experience!

The fuel gauge hardly seemed to move from showing full, at all.

When I arrived home it seemed to indicate that I'd used a third of a tank of gas.

The car was booked in for some garage hoist time, to try to establish the cause of the cutting out and also the massive 'clunk' some where in the drive train, when it did.

I duly drove the car to the garage some 10 miles away, but the session was called off due to localised flooding at the garage premises.

On the way home it was like a "bucking bronco" - stop starting, at low speeds. (With the now, inevitable clunk from the rear)!

I noticed at this point, that the fuel gauge was very low (only 20 miles since last parked up!) And the low fuel lamp in the gauge appeared not to have illuminated at all.

Thinking I was out of fuel and not able to even make the nearest garage, I managed to coax it home (rolled part way down a local hill) - convinced it was a fuel issue.

I used 4 gallons out of a Jerry can to top up and planned to get it filled with Super Unleaded today.

The car started fine and ticked over great.

Filled up at the local garage (but only 34 litres to brim it?), where the car was up to normal temp.

Started the car but it immediately died, attempted cranking it another 10 times, with the same result, fired, tick over for 3 seconds then stopped.

I eventually managed 20 yards, but the engine cut again!

Finally the car started and I revved it hard, it pulled away hesitantly but the drove home pretty ok.

It missed a couple of shunts on the final few hundred yards, at low speed, but got me home.

Ignition / fuel pump issues?? (Or any other suggestions???)

Any replies / thoughts greatly appreciated as it's not reliable enough to drive like this.

(It was a private sale)

Many thanks in anticipation,

Phil.


Mutley00

292 posts

139 months

Sunday 6th September 2020
quotequote all
Hi Phil,

Sorry I'm not teccy enough to advise on your issues. I suspect from your ID you are an (ex?) Lotus owner aswell? Some expression about frying pan and fire springs to mind!!

Good luck getting your problem sorted.

Regards, Andrew

ITVRI

198 posts

198 months

Sunday 6th September 2020
quotequote all
There could be a number things that could cause the problems you are experiencing but based on your description I doubt it’s fuel related.
The classic response to these symptoms is to do with the stepper motor which controls idle and can stick when sooted up. It’s a simple procedure to remove to check and clean, but in my 12 years of ownership I’ve never really had a problem with it. Rover gauge will also help to check its working properly and you can clear any fault codes etc.

It could also be ignition related via a couple of dodgy leads, spark plugs or ignition module. In any case a good tip to help with better idle and running reliability if not done already is to change the spark plugs to BPR6EX, remove the spark plug extenders, and use either the ceramic plug leads or standard Range Rover leads with socks.

It’s my bet that the AFM is causing your problem because from your description of starting and idling well but after filling at the garage and also in heavy traffic the engine bay gets very hot (due to heat from the headers ) causing the problem to emerge. Swapping out with another AFM (that’s known to work) could be part of your diagnoses. You could also clean the sensor that sits in the airflow inside the module with airflow sensor cleaner and this may help its function.
If your not that hands on then let us know where you are and someone will be able to recommend a TVR friendly garage nearby or someone may offer to offer a spare AFM or other parts to swap out.

scottliv

165 posts

62 months

Sunday 6th September 2020
quotequote all
Will Rover Guage work on Windows 10?

ITVRI

198 posts

198 months

Sunday 6th September 2020
quotequote all
Yes it works on Windows 10.

Paulprior

871 posts

121 months

Sunday 6th September 2020
quotequote all
I once had the issue where it would start and run for just a few seconds, a call to a specialist who advised to lock and unlock via the alarm fob fixed it and it then ran perfectly

blitzracing

6,414 posts

236 months

Monday 7th September 2020
quotequote all
ITVRI said:
Yes it works on Windows 10.
It will work on all versions of windows, but on some of the older versions of Windows like Vista and XP the most recent versions wont work, but its just a case of loading an older version of RoverGauge (9.xx)