A6 passsenger door won't open

A6 passsenger door won't open

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Discussion

paul garabette

Original Poster:

140 posts

254 months

Friday 2nd December 2005
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Hi all.

My 1998 A6 passenger door won't open. The door will not unlock. The door pin looks like it's trying to move when I operate the central locking, and when I pull the door handle inside the pin rises and then retracts when I release the handle (but doesn't open). I suspect that the deadlock is stuck on because when I lock the car with the fob and pull the inside drivers door handle it behaves in the same way. Has anyone experienced this?

The problem I have is that I can't remove the door card with the door shut in order to investigate. The only thing I can think of is to destroy the door card to get it off and try to find a replacement at a breakers....or else take a deep breath and bend over at the Audi garage.

Any ideas appreciated!!

Paul.

>> Edited by paul garabette on Friday 2nd December 14:09

deltafox

3,839 posts

232 months

Friday 2nd December 2005
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Go outside and get a hold of the door handle then get someone to operate the c/locking while using the palm of your hand to pat/slap quite strongly the area of the door lock.
It may help to actuate the lock enough to get the door open.

Heck, it works on Picasso's!

HTH.

paul garabette

Original Poster:

140 posts

254 months

Friday 2nd December 2005
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I'll give the slapping technique a go! Thanks.

paul garabette

Original Poster:

140 posts

254 months

Tuesday 6th December 2005
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No luck with the slapping technique I'm afraid. Any other ideas? I haven't accepted defeat yet....but I'm getting close!

deltafox

3,839 posts

232 months

Tuesday 6th December 2005
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Hmmmm not really im afraid.
As the deadlock has come on youll have little choice but to go all internal on it im afraid.
Before you start though, itd be a good idea to remove the seat if you can, itd make access so very much easier for you.
Youll then have to destroy the lock most likely in order to get it open as theyre usually secured behind the kind of plastic that dosent like to be messed with.
Took me around an hour to open a Picasso rear door from the inside and a C5 took about the same.
Be prepared for some swearing id say.
Get a good pry bar, hackswaw blade and long nose pliers to remove the plastic casing inside the door.
It *may* just be possible to access the deadlocking mechanism manually without all of the destruction, but youll still have to access the inside of the door and see if thats possible.
Take a look at where each "rod" connects to the lock. Therell usually be 2 or 3 of em to play with. If its a rear door, remember that the child locks may also be on, so disable that first if you can access it.

hth. oh and good luck.

SJobson

12,972 posts

264 months

Wednesday 7th December 2005
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This happened to me a couple of months ago. Within a couple of days it became difficult to start the car - basically the battery was dying and, once replaced, it worked perfectly again.

God knows what sort of mechanism the locks use which mean they stop working before the starter on a high compression V8...

paul garabette

Original Poster:

140 posts

254 months

Monday 12th December 2005
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I've managed to sort it out.

By examining the driver's side (which would open) I found that the deadlock basically blocks the "unlocking lever" in the door catch to stop it unlocking. This lever could be unscrewed with the catch mechanism removed from the door. When in the door, the screw was covered by the door card and a bit of door metal(undernea the door card). I ended up drilling a hole in the door card and through the metal so that I could unscrew the lever and prise it out of the way with a screw driver.....and hey presto the door opened.

I then took the catch apart and disabled the deadlock. Good old fashioned "ingress of water" was the reason the little deadlock motor had stopped working. There is some minor damage to the door card but I can live with that......after all it's only the wifes car!!!!

deltafox

3,839 posts

232 months

Monday 12th December 2005
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Ah well at least you didnt have to wreck the door to get thing out!

Rod Warner

6 posts

263 months

Saturday 24th March 2007
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Thanks for the above info it helped me solve what I understand is a relatively common problem with 5-6 year old A6's . In the spirit of helping each other here are a few more tips .

If the deadlocks start to jam - dont leave it until it jams completely - take off the door card , 2 screws at the top , pop a small screwdriver through the hole under the elec window control to reless the panel to remove it and lift the card up and off the door- great system why dont others use it ? . With the door unlocked unplug the wiring to the door lock and then at least you can lock / unlock and operate the door manually until you get a new part and fit it .

As you can see from the above if the deadlock jams you are in real trouble as the door card is jammed againt the frame and hence no access to the guts and even if you can get at it , if it is still jammed there is no way to easily release it .

With mine banging the door with my palm didnt work - however by carefully placing a block on thick fabric in the lock area on the outer frame, and hitting it with a mallet while my son held the handle and attempted to unlock with the remote finally worked . Be aware after 20 attempts to unlock the system cuts out for while .

Apparently it is possible to prise the upper door trim section ( the plastic part ) from the card and allow the remainder of the card to be worked out and them be re bonded back onto the card - pretty messy though .

Once you have access and if you still cant shock the deadlock motor to release - putting a hammer & chisel to the upper quadrant and hammer in the same direction that the inner door handle would open it should break the deadlock - which is only a bit of plastic and unock the door .

I can see that the drilling through to get at the upper pivot could work - but you will need to be spot on / have quite a big hole and will still be difficult to get in to knock the latch mechanism down .

As above the problem looks to be be moisture in the deadlock motor - which causes a poor contact , there is a drain hole nearby - may be a preventative blast of WD 40 through that hole would be a good investment.

lowpro23

1 posts

183 months

Sunday 18th January 2009
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similar problem...

I just purchased a tip chip from INMotion for my 04 A6 2.7t, so the other day I head to my car to start the removal of the TCU. My car is currently parked outside for winter (in a car cover). As I pulled the car cover up to open the front passenger door it was slightly frozen but easily opened...... Almost finished the removal and happy I get up to take a quick break (it is -25 out). I shut the door... but the door wouldn't click in like if is was frozen open. So I play with the mechanism in the middle of the door with my finger (up and down) and shut it again still nothing. So I leaned on the door and then locked it with my remote. It works the door closed.... but now it won't open! I see and hear the lock trying.... any ideas?


I heated the car up for a good 30 min and still no luck.. This door won't open. The handle feels like I'm pulling on nothing but air. You see the lock pin slightly move (and if its locked it'll pop back up) but you can definitely feel that it is not functioning right. Maybe a guy from a towing company could unlock this with some special tools they have for people who lock themselves out of their vehicles? Please any help would be much appreciated... I got the TCU out but I'm afraid I will be losing sleep due to having a brand new car with a door that won't open... gosh as if it's that easy to screw up a lock!! I did this exact same thing (many times) with my 99 Audi A4 2.8 and as soon as I went to unlock it, it worked.

Aranel

1 posts

182 months

Monday 23rd February 2009
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Hi

My problem is similar to those above, basically the driver's door would not open inside or outside. So I book it into a garage, get told I need to wait a week so I borrow a work's car for a few days. When I then go to use the central locking no lights come on car, so I try the driver's door and it now opens??? But I find my car has no power and the "fuse" warning light is on the display, so as of now I'm gonna charge the battery tomorrow and see what happens?

Anyone experienced this?

Herman Toothrot

6,702 posts

198 months

Sunday 8th January 2012
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Right my A6 today has refused to open the front passenger door, exactly the same as the OPer's problem. So we can assume its the deadlock. Has anyone since 2005 come up with a way to fix this without damaging trim etc? It has done it previously but only when its been below zero for a day or two and as soon as warm again it worked, todays the first time its failed to open when not in freezing conditions. Looking from the rear door (with it open) you can see the lock opening and a rubber gromit at the top next to the handle, I sprayed a load of WD40 down there just now but no joy.

Herman Toothrot

6,702 posts

198 months

Wednesday 11th January 2012
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Only option is out with the drill then?

00161wj

566 posts

208 months

Wednesday 11th January 2012
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NO!! They normally undo by getting someone to operate the switch lock/unlock repeatedly whilst you hit the door card near the lock heavily a good few times, whilst pulling the handle.

FlyingFin

176 posts

131 months

Monday 4th December 2017
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AND ANOTHER NOOOOO!!!!!!

READ BEFORE CUTTING THE DOOR CARD UP.....


IF YOUR AUDIA4/A6 REAR DOORS WONT UNLOCK AND OPEN.....


Before you start cutting through the door card look at the wiring on the B pillar going to the rear door...


There is a black rubber cover which hides the wiring from the elements and 'protects' the wire from harmful water, salt etc...


EXCEPT that on my B6 Avant, the large Brown Earth wire had broken within this rubber cover and left the rear door deadlocked and had no power to the electric window.

Solution was 15 mins in total, including making a coffee and having a slurp as cut through the rubber cover and removed it completely, then I spliced and soldered a short 4cm length of wire to both broken ends of the earth wire, insulated it, and Bobs your mothers brother......

I can now open and close the door and window, and will be able to remove the door card to place a new rubber cover in the door shut at a later date. And the locking now works as it should.

I will try and get a pic of the broken wire up on here as soon as I can.


FF

Edited by FlyingFin on Monday 4th December 17:06


Edited by FlyingFin on Monday 4th December 17:08


Edited by FlyingFin on Monday 4th December 17:09

markharris

3 posts

46 months

Monday 29th June 2020
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I realise that this thread has been idle a while, but I have exactly the same problem with my 1998 Audi A6 C6 passenger door not opening with remote or indoor or outdoor handle, and thus can't get to the lock to fix it. I'm hoping maybe someone remembers enough to help me.
I've tried slapping and hitting, but no luck.

I bought a used lock to learn how it works with hope of doing some keyhole surgery through the edge of the door after removing the back door,
but I can't find the deadlock described as the likely culprit in the thread.
I was hoping it was on the outside of the lock container box, but I fear not, and am hesitant to open it up before knowing that I need to.

Sooo, can someone tell me where exactly is the deadlock pin ? Also, is opening the lock easily reversible, or will it cause springy things to fly out ?



Edited by markharris on Monday 29th June 13:45

TonyRPH

12,971 posts

168 months

Monday 29th June 2020
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I had this same issue with my 2000 VW Bora (same locks I believe)

I found that heating the door around the lock area made it work - I only discovered this as it had been intermittent for a while and then one warm day when the sun had been on the door it worked - but of course like a twit I didn't repair it lol - hence the hair dryer trick.

I heated it from the outside - just mind you don't blister the paint!

It's the micro switches in the door lock that fail causing this (in my case).

markharris

3 posts

46 months

Monday 29th June 2020
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We had 35 degrees last week when I worked on it, so not sure how much more heat I can get all the way into the black box, but will definitely give it a try.
I'm pretty desperate, because this would be a really stupid problem to be the death of a great car, failing its MOT for a lock problem.

Do you know if the microswitches are failing to move, or just failing to make the electrical connections ?

TonyRPH

12,971 posts

168 months

Monday 29th June 2020
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I suspect the heat trick won't work then!

The switches no longer make good connections - I don't think even dosing them with contact cleaner helps.

This guy BMAC VAGS on Youtube explains it in this video (how to change the switches) he also has another video explaining how to remove the door lock. (but of course you need to get the door open first)

As far as I know, the deadlocks can't be bypassed without gaining access to the door - also - some doors (e.g. Golf / Bora) have a steel cover plate behind the trim - so even if you hack the trim away, you still need to remove this steel cover to gain access to the lock....

Edited by TonyRPH on Monday 29th June 14:28

markharris

3 posts

46 months

Monday 29th June 2020
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The lock video caused an even longer one to be suggested by youtube (https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLrbHoqGceWKRuQX3T1eYd5L-ZReUI8NH6), which I'll watch tonight, but it's not looking good for my microsurgery idea. The Germans really know how to build solid stuff !
Thanks for the pointers though.