The "Guess that part of the wiring loom" Game, with pictures

[977]

Roll up! Roll up!

I'm trying to get to grips with EVERYTHING about my Chimaera, and I have a stack of unidentified relays in the passenger footwell!

Contestant number 1:



Contestant number 2:



Contestant number 3:



Contestant number 4:



Contestants number 5, 6 and 7:



Contestant number 8:



Bonus Rounds:

Where does this light up and what does it light up with?


And last but not least... is my oil pressure light knackered (ignition on, engine not started):

Edited by 977 on Tuesday 11th August 21:04

[bob_g]

I can help with the relays (having just stripped & rebuilt the engine loom on mine).

The black one with the green top and the two yellow ones are for the Aircon (I've removed them, and the associated wires from mine).

The one with a Black wire with Grey tracer going to it from the ECU is for the A/C Clutch Relay
The one with a Black wire with Green tracer going to it is for the A/C condenser fan
The other one isn't needed either.

There should also be some other connectors (for diagnostics - although yours may have the Rover Diagnostic thingy plugged into it)

The one with a relay in looks like the Fuel injection relay (with Brown/Orange wire), but could be the fuel pump relay or the main power relay (can't remember which is the one on that loom now. This one is required

Not sure what the yellow one on the fuse/relay board is - haven't tackled the car wiring yet.

The easy way to test your oil pressure light would be by shorting out (or is it just unplugging) the connector to the oil pressure sender, and see if the light comes on. If it does, then it's most likely to be the sender, if it doesn't, then it should be the bulb (or LED), fuse or wiring.

[977]

45 points to bob g, thanks very much for playing, excellent first score there!

I'm glad the three without relays are for air-conditioning, which I don't have. =D

[bob_g]

You'll find a loose white round connector near your alternator too - that's for the aircon as well. (again, now removed on mine, but no problem leaving it on there.)

[slideways]

Contestant number 8:



blimey have you let Daz near your fusebox??






sorry Daz couldn't resist

Edited by slideways on Tuesday 11th August 23:03

[dwgriffith]

Diagnostic display. Behind the red plastic case on the front above the white label are two 7 segment LED arrays. They will only light up if a fault condition is has been detected. If you want to see if the unit is operational then you need to create a fault. Easiest is the 02 fault code for ecu power interupt, temporarily disconnect the car battery then once you re-connect the display should indicate 02 (can't remember if it shows before or after the ignition is turned on). This fault code does not require clearing, however, as the battery has been dis-connected you will have to let the car idle for a few minutes for the ecu to learn the stepper motor idle position (this is the only setting it keeps in memory). The units were not fitted by TVR so a former owner has added it on, they sell for anything up to £100 on ebay.

[977]

I was curious what those siliconey looking items did too!

Thanks for the diagnostics "how to", pretty useful to have around (or not, hopefully!!).

If anyone needs to borrow it in the Gatwick area, that would be fine. =)

[Scary1]

"as the battery has been dis-connected you will have to let the car idle for a few minutes for the ecu to learn the stepper motor idle position"

Should the engine be warm when you do this?

Thanks

[MikeTVR]

Scary1 said:

"as the battery has been dis-connected you will have to let the car idle for a few minutes for the ecu to learn the stepper motor idle position"
Should the engine be warm when you do this?

It makes no difference the stepper is adjusted dynamically all the time whilst the engine is idling and the car is at a standstill. The idle speed is higher whilst the engine is cold as per any conventional choke.
Mike

[spend]

977 said:

I was curious what those siliconey looking items did too!

There is a facility in the fuse box for a big strip fuse (like the infamous alt fuse) which is not used by TVR. One of those copper lugs is dead, but the other is constantly live. They are covered in a blob of silicone to insulate them as there is no cover on the fusebox, alternately when changing the old alt fuse as it melts you can cut the lid off and stick that on the fusebox terminals?

[project 112]

bob_g said:

You'll find a loose white round connector near your alternator too - that's for the aircon as well. (again, now removed on mine, but no problem leaving it on there.)

thanks bob you,ve just set my mind at rest,i to have removed the A/C relays from the loom in my project kit car as it has no, er air con fitted,and i,am glad to see i removed the right ones! lol, but i read somewhere on the net that the connections that went from the ECU to the air con(can,t remember off hand what numbers they were on the the ECU multiplug) need to be grounded to earth via a small resistor to fool the ECU into thinking the air con is still connected,faiure to do this could cause the engine to run fast at idle as the ECU tries to compensate for the extra load that would have been caused by the A/C system. Having not started my engine yet do you think i will need to do this? Anybody done this before/