How to drill stainless steel?
Discussion
The most expensive doesn't mean the best.
Pilot hole, drilling slowly, lots of lube.
If you drill too fast then the stainless will harden and you will have failed miserably.
No need for a laser specialist, anyone with a punch will probably do.
It depends on the object and what you want doing.
Pilot hole, drilling slowly, lots of lube.
If you drill too fast then the stainless will harden and you will have failed miserably.
No need for a laser specialist, anyone with a punch will probably do.
It depends on the object and what you want doing.
Edited by elster on Friday 5th February 17:01
Ok, I will go slowertimlongs said:
elster said:
Pilot hole, drilling slowly, lots of lube.
Hahaseriously, slowly does it or the bit will spin and overheat.
I bet the best bits or today won't match the tool-steel cutting bits that my father had (now I have them) they can cut machine tools and have no problems with anything. Where are you, and what sized holes? (fnarr)
HertsBiker said:
timlongs said:
elster said:
Pilot hole, drilling slowly, lots of lube.
Hahaseriously, slowly does it or the bit will spin and overheat.
I bet the best bits or today won't match the tool-steel cutting bits that my father had (now I have them) they can cut machine tools and have no problems with anything. Where are you, and what sized holes? (fnarr)
Seriously does this work?
I remember doing a job for a builder- to "save money" rather than buy stainless steel speaker outlets x4 ($$$ from high-end supplier) that "I" should just drill 10mm holes in budget blank plates for the speaker cables, snapped half a dozen small drills (about 3mm, yes drilling slowly) and barely scratched the steel, before throwing it back at him and telling him he could fart faff f
k fool about with it if he thought it was such a great idea.Had SS scuttle plates on the westie when I built it. Use a cobalt drill of the right size, preferably pillar drill & slow speed, feed with plenty of lubrication. Make sure whatever you drilling is clamped down as the drill WILL grab when it breaks through!
Edited by tr7v8 on Friday 5th February 17:35
k-ink said:
I'm having real trouble drilling into stainless steel! Despite just buying the most expensive drill bit I could find in a local DIY chain. I feel like giving up and nuking it from orbit!
Should I just take it to a laser specialist?
First of all try a cobalt drill, if you still can't do it post up a pic of what your trying to drill and I'll tell you if it could be done on a laser.Should I just take it to a laser specialist?
try and get some pressure downwards on the drill. I had to drill a 8mm hole in the leafsprings on a car once - 1" hardened steel. Was hardly making a mark till I stuck a crowbar between the bodywork and the spring (was mounted at this point) at which point it went through in about a minute. dead easy
If you have already got the metal to hot, ie the bit and the steel have gone red hot whilst trying to drill it, you will struggle to go through it a second time.
Try a fresh or resharpened drill from the other side of the sheet if you can.
Centre punch the hole.
Drill sqaure to the sheet, medium speed, even pressure, but not to much, loads of coolant lube.
If you see the tip of the drill or the sheet going red, stop, let it cool and try again.
A normal HSS drill should do it, but once the edge of the drill is gone you need to resharpen it.
Also stainless has hard spots in it, so some holes may go through easier than others.
Try a fresh or resharpened drill from the other side of the sheet if you can.
Centre punch the hole.
Drill sqaure to the sheet, medium speed, even pressure, but not to much, loads of coolant lube.
If you see the tip of the drill or the sheet going red, stop, let it cool and try again.
A normal HSS drill should do it, but once the edge of the drill is gone you need to resharpen it.
Also stainless has hard spots in it, so some holes may go through easier than others.
Never used a masonry drill to drill St/St can see that working personally as the drill point is not ground to cut but more to bludgeon it's way through brick.
Spent my 5 year apprenticeship drilling stainless, nimonic, steels and titanium. As already said here HSS drills relatively slow speed in comparison to ally, you will need to increase speed the smaller the drill gets. Ideally centre punch the hole, start drill & be quite forceful with the feed pressure until the drill starts to bite/cut, again as already said if you don't "attack" the steel it will glaze and work harden.
Have a quick read though this, it will explain a little better it may also be a little OTT but the read will help you understand the material.
http://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=194
HTH
Spent my 5 year apprenticeship drilling stainless, nimonic, steels and titanium. As already said here HSS drills relatively slow speed in comparison to ally, you will need to increase speed the smaller the drill gets. Ideally centre punch the hole, start drill & be quite forceful with the feed pressure until the drill starts to bite/cut, again as already said if you don't "attack" the steel it will glaze and work harden.
Have a quick read though this, it will explain a little better it may also be a little OTT but the read will help you understand the material.
http://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=194
HTH
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