Sagaris Steering Arms?

[dvs_dave]

Spurred on by another post on the Tuscan forum, it appears that the steering arms on the Sagaris are different to the versions fitted to previous cars. They have a modified ball joint pick-up point allowing the rod to be mounted lower so that the steering arms sit more level which is much better for bump steer.

Does anyone know if this part will fit the Mk1 Tuscan hub carrier and where to get the part from? Looks like it could be the secret to eliminating Tuscan twitchyness on the bumps.

Here's the sag part verses the standard part which is completely flat.

Edited by dvs_dave on Monday 10th May 11:32

[VARLEYHYD]

Sagaris Steering arms


The Sagaris Steering arms will fit all others from Cerb onwards, but dont forget that the Sag uprights are set higher wider, so will not be any use.


If this helps you can see on the photo of the Sag chassis two sets of holes, the sag uses the upper set, If TVR were to continue I think it was there intention to use the same chassis for all T models too.


I think there is only one way forward, and that is to manfuacture bespoke steering arms(The Sagaris factory ones are not exactly perfect anyway-they are a little too low in height) to replace the existing making the track rod end mount from the underside.
The steering track rods may need shortening too.

The Tuscan I am sure can be sorted, but looking at the photos there is not much space to do so.

The answer maybe to pack the rack up, or even make a bespoke one piece upright including the steering arm.

Oh, and the uprights are all the same, Cerb to date apart from loose brake calpier spacers

I would not use rose joints with spacers as they would be prone to bending and shear loads.


HTH


G

Edited by VARLEYHYD on Monday 10th May 22:05

[dvs_dave]

Yes, the Saggy suspension is mounted higher up, but even with the lower mounting positions of the previous cars, the steering arm balljoint is way too high at normal ride heights (the steering arm is actually angled upward!). Using the Sag arm would lower the joint position, so bringing the steering arm back to a more horizontal position. By how much I don't know without measuring things, but it would definately be an improvement.

I guess the key thing is to get the height of the rack balljoint above the inner lower wishbone pivot point as close as possible to the height of the steering arm balljoint above the outer lower wishbone mount. You may need to shorten the steering arms, but by how much is hard to determine. The existing adjustment may accomodate it?

I believe that the Sag uses the same upright as the later Tuscan's (i.e the ones with the "TVR" branded brake calipers) so it "should" just be a bolt on jobbie?

Here's a pic of a bump steer mod done to a Cerbera (pictured earlier in standard form), but it just flips the mount to the underside of the standard arm and to me now looks too low and not right geometrically (i.e still not parallel with the lower wishbone). I think changing the steering arm is a more elegant solution as the mounting position is the halfway point between the the two pictured extremes which is where is needs to be.

ETA: Does anyone know if the existing rack length has something to do with why the steering rods are the way they are?

Edited by dvs_dave on Monday 10th May 16:28

[VARLEYHYD]

dvs_dave said:

Here's a pic of a bump steer mod done to a Cerbera

Not sure it has changed things too much, it still looks wrong.

Just make new steering arms to measured revised dimension, somewhere between the sag and tuscan problem solved.

G

[g20v6]

Is it true that the sagaris track rods are 25mm longer to allow for the wider track? Have been looking to do the same on the front of my cerb.

[dvs_dave]

VARLEYHYD said:

dvs_dave said:

Here's a pic of a bump steer mod done to a Cerbera

Not sure it has changed things too much, it still looks wrong.

Just make new steering arms to measured revised dimension, somewhere between the sag and tuscan problem solved.

G

Indeed, I also think it looks wrong, although users claim it makes a big difference. However I'd rather use a ready made part if it works than go to the hassle and expense of fabricating a bespoke part.