How to fix plasterboard to steel joists...

[Lefty 200 Drams]

Any ideas how to fix plasterboard to the underside of a steel framed intermediate floor (and chipboard flooring to the top surface for that matter!).

I'm trying to keep the overall thickness of the floor to an absolute minimum (my friendly structural enginer has designed a floor with 80mm members but, as he's not in the building industry, doesn't know how to fix the sheets for the downstairs ceiling and upstairs flooring.

Any suggestions?

Ta

[TheEnd]

How big is the steel?

You'd probably get away with pinkgrip for that, I've demolished plenty of stuff and found plasterboard just glued to smooth surfaces

[RonJohnson]

Plasterboard adhesive? I've used it for small areas under RSJs and the like, but not sure if it would support larger areas.

[Piersman2]

Gripfill will hold anything like that in place.

But you'd be needing the beams to be close enough so that the board didn't sag between beams.

[RVVUNM]

Ring Nevill Long Glasgow on 0141 642 9811 and ask them about MF system or go onto the British Gypsum website http://www.british-gypsum.com/systems/system_selec...

[silverthorn2151]

Bear in mind the plasterboard is there, in part, to provide fire protection to the beams.

Is the whole of the floor steel or are you talking about timber joists between supporting steels?

[TooLateForAName]

what about noise?

[MrV]

Flooring is the easy part as that can be laid as a floating floor,in other words just glued together and not fixed to the joists.

[wolf1]

If it's a run of 'I' beams then just notch some suitable sized pieces of wood and wedge between the beams, just as you would with noggins on any other wall/floor etc and then just screw to those.

[headcase]

Dabbing compound is normally used to stick to the flats of an I beam, or if its going up the side of th I beam then some batton cutoffs are normally wedged in the I then screwed to that. You can screw into an I but it needs pre drilling first.

[Stegel]

As said above, does the structure need to have any fire resistance? If it does, don't consider using Gripfil or similar. As also advised, suggest using either all or part of the MF system - overall thickness will be in the region of 80mm if using single layer of 12.5mm board and both metal channels, or could be halved if you can attach the main channel sections directly to your structure - they will span about 1200mm.

[Driller]

Lefty 200 Drams said:

Any ideas how to fix plasterboard to the underside of a steel framed intermediate floor (and chipboard flooring to the top surface for that matter!).

I'm trying to keep the overall thickness of the floor to an absolute minimum (my friendly structural enginer has designed a floor with 80mm members but, as he's not in the building industry, doesn't know how to fix the sheets for the downstairs ceiling and upstairs flooring.

Any suggestions?

Ta

We used No Nails type adhesive for our steel beams, worked a treat.

[Lefty 200 Drams]

Thanks for the replies chaps. We haven't applied for warrant yet so I'll see what the guys at Building Control have to say about it. I hadn't even considered the firproofing aspect of it.

Nor had I realised that you could have a floating floor. If this is right then it saves a fair bit of fecking about

Edited by Lefty 200 Drams on Friday 2nd July 08:29

[Dunclane]

headcase said:

Dabbing compound is normally used to stick to the flats of an I beam, or if its going up the side of th I beam then some batton cutoffs are normally wedged in the I then screwed to that. You can screw into an I but it needs pre drilling first.

Dabbing compound needs a porous substrate, it wont stick to steel or precast concrete.