Cerbera Wheels
Discussion
Offset 33 is what is used on Tuscan's. Spiders on Cerbera's have a pcd of 5*114.3 and an offset of 42mm. The 16" wheels of the earlier Cerbera's had the same ocd but an offset of 35mm. If you are going from the original 16" to the spiders, then you probalby have to fit steeringbumps on the wishbones. You wil have to ask somebody, to be sure. But I am sure about the pcd and offsets.
flyingdutchie said:
Offset 33 is what is used on Tuscan's. Spiders on Cerbera's have a pcd of 5*114.3 and an offset of 42mm. The 16" wheels of the earlier Cerbera's had the same ocd but an offset of 35mm. If you are going from the original 16" to the spiders, then you probalby have to fit steeringbumps on the wishbones. You wil have to ask somebody, to be sure. But I am sure about the pcd and offsets.
Tuscan Spider offset is 42mm front & 33mm back. As stated above the Cerbera is 42mm all round, however, I have 33's on the back of my Cerb and have no clearance issues. Lock stops are required with 18" wheels. I fitted a set off stops a few weeks ago and after receiving them, I wish I'd made them myself...£15 + P&P for 2 poxy nylon washers with a slot cut in them.....robbing barstewards!!!mikethebike1127 said:
Tuscan Spider offset is 42mm front & 33mm back. As stated above the Cerbera is 42mm all round, however, I have 33's on the back of my Cerb and have no clearance issues. Lock stops are required with 18" wheels. I fitted a set off stops a few weeks ago and after receiving them, I wish I'd made them myself...£15 + P&P for 2 poxy nylon washers with a slot cut in them.....robbing barstewards!!!
Oops - I should have mentioned the lock stops are the same size as the nylon washers you can get in the DIY barns for fitting a ball valve to a bog cistern. Guess which is cheaper - TVR parts or bog washer?Mr Cerbera said:
September 2001 4.5
Spiders
42 Front,
33 rear,
No Lock Stops
No problems
(Apart from the fact that she has the turning circle of an Oil Tanker)
Bringing up an old post but can I ask you what tyres you are running on the rear.Spiders
42 Front,
33 rear,
No Lock Stops
No problems
(Apart from the fact that she has the turning circle of an Oil Tanker)
I have the same wheel sizes ie 42 front, 33 rear but I'm having a problem with the rears, does look as if it can solved but only if I fit a 235 rear tyre.
DJR 7 said:
Bringing up an old post but can I ask you what tyres you are running on the rear.
I have the same wheel sizes ie 42 front, 33 rear but I'm having a problem with the rears, does look as if it can solved but only if I fit a 235 rear tyre.
I'm running 245/55's on 33mm offset spiders with no clearance issues.I have the same wheel sizes ie 42 front, 33 rear but I'm having a problem with the rears, does look as if it can solved but only if I fit a 235 rear tyre.
DJR 7 said:
Mr Cerbera said:
September 2001 4.5
Spiders
42 Front,
33 rear,
No Lock Stops
No problems
(Apart from the fact that she has the turning circle of an Oil Tanker)
Bringing up an old post but can I ask you what tyres you are running on the rear.Spiders
42 Front,
33 rear,
No Lock Stops
No problems
(Apart from the fact that she has the turning circle of an Oil Tanker)
I have the same wheel sizes ie 42 front, 33 rear but I'm having a problem with the rears, does look as if it can solved but only if I fit a 235 rear tyre.
225 35 x 18 Front Toyo Proxes
255 35 x 18 Rear Toyo Proxes
I originally had a problem with a 'trubbing noise' on severe left-handers but I had a fiddle with my exhaust and silender placement and everything is hunky-d now.
HTH
ETA
8.5J Wheels BTW
Edited by Mr Cerbera on Sunday 21st March 12:37
Edited by Mr Cerbera on Sunday 21st March 12:39
Random24234 said:
Presumably that is per wheel. If its not, can you please tell me where you can get them, i would buy 2 sets They are nice looking wheels, but i did look at them before and possibly dismissed them on price/weight.
Good Grief Paul,I hadn't even thought of it being per wheel
I have attempted to send them a rquest (in Japanese ).
Will await their reply and get back to you.
(Also just realised that will require a VAT charge as well)
Don't hold your breath
Ditto that, most manufacturers in Japan list their wheels each.
That being said, MSRP is always a bit above what they really sell for thru retailers in most cases.
You can check with online stores (Like Fuji - http://www.fujicorporation.com/eng/shop/default.as... )and in Japanese drift or tuning/racing magazines for set prices if you know the make, model and wheel size you want. I realize that getting said Japanese magazines outside Japan can be expensive( or impossible), but just want to add some options.
ScottyO
That being said, MSRP is always a bit above what they really sell for thru retailers in most cases.
You can check with online stores (Like Fuji - http://www.fujicorporation.com/eng/shop/default.as... )and in Japanese drift or tuning/racing magazines for set prices if you know the make, model and wheel size you want. I realize that getting said Japanese magazines outside Japan can be expensive( or impossible), but just want to add some options.
ScottyO
ukkid35 said:
Everyone discusses clearance, no one mentions scrub radius.
OK, I'm the Dullo, what is "scrub radius" ?ETA
OK, OK, I've just found this....
"The scrub radius is the distance in front view between the king pin axis and the center of the contact patch of the wheel, where both would theoretically touch the road.
The kingpin axis is the line between the upper and lower ball joints of the hub. On a MacPherson strut, the top pivot point is the strut bearing, and the bottom point is the lower ball joint. The inclination of the steering axis is measured as the angle between the steering axis and the centerline of the wheel. This means that if the camber angle is adjustable within the pivot points the scrub radius can be changed, this alters the width and offset of the tires on a vehicle.
If the kingpin axis intersection point is outboard of the center of the contact patch it is negative, if inside the contact patch it is positive. The term scrub radius derives from the fact that either in the positive or negative mode, the tire does not turn on its centerline (it scrubs the road in a turn) and due to the increased friction, more effort is needed to turn the wheel[citation needed].
Large positive values of scrub radius, 4 inches/100 mm or so, were used in cars for many years. The advantage of this is that the tire rolls as the wheel is steered, which reduces the effort when parking. This also allows greater width in the engine bay, which is very important in some compact sports cars.
If the scrub radius is small then the contact patch is spun in place when parking, which takes a lot more effort. The advantage of a small scrub radius is that the steering becomes less sensitive to braking inputs, in particular.
An advantage of a negative scrub radius is that the geometry naturally compensates for split mu braking, or failure in one of the brake circuits. It also provides center point steering in the event of a tire deflation, which provides greater stability and steering control in this emergency situation."
I guess that my amended question should be "What are the values of the standard scrub radius for a Cerb and did they vary through the history of the three series ?"
Aaah thank you .
Edited by Mr Cerbera on Monday 7th October 14:57
Well if we are to get into the magical area of scrub radius's, we run into the old problem they were all hand built and every car is slightly different. Having said that if anyone has a chassis out and can take measurements of the mounting points of the suspension we can calculate it based on those measurements.
The vital details are upper control arm angle and length, lower control arm angle and length, kingpin spindle offset, hub offset, height of the chassis from the upper mount arm mount to the lower, the width between the two lower, and the width between the two upper. And of course all of that again for the rear wheels.
The link bellow gives probably a better idea of what measurements would be required.
http://www.racingaspirations.com/apps/suspension-g...
I've heard a lot of people say the best handling they had was from the 17" wheels, these had an offset of ET35 all around. I've often wondered if this comparison was not solely due the more flexible sidewalls and progressive grip this might provide but from the fact the scrub radius was more thought out and closer to what was designed, but i don't know why TVR used spiders that are different offsets or indeed if ET35 all around will fit on 18x8 & 18x9 wheels and this of course assumes the ride height is the same.
The vital details are upper control arm angle and length, lower control arm angle and length, kingpin spindle offset, hub offset, height of the chassis from the upper mount arm mount to the lower, the width between the two lower, and the width between the two upper. And of course all of that again for the rear wheels.
The link bellow gives probably a better idea of what measurements would be required.
http://www.racingaspirations.com/apps/suspension-g...
I've heard a lot of people say the best handling they had was from the 17" wheels, these had an offset of ET35 all around. I've often wondered if this comparison was not solely due the more flexible sidewalls and progressive grip this might provide but from the fact the scrub radius was more thought out and closer to what was designed, but i don't know why TVR used spiders that are different offsets or indeed if ET35 all around will fit on 18x8 & 18x9 wheels and this of course assumes the ride height is the same.
Edited by Random24234 on Tuesday 8th October 00:42
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