Lawn in need of rescue...
Discussion
We planted our lawn last year. Unfortunately the topsoil we were given turned out to be full of weeds (variety unknown). So as well as some nice new grass we ended up with this:
Spent all summer uprooting them by hand, which was not fun and took a while. Seems to have gotten rid of them, fingers crossed they won't come back again this year.
Problem is though that the uprooting made the lawn rather lumpy and covered in small (and some not so small) craters plus lots of small bare patches. Just rolling the ground isn't going to fix it so could anybody advise on how to smooth things out nicely? Mrs Zax wants to redo the whole thing which I would rather avoid unless absolutely necessary
I'm not very green fingered...
Thanks!
Spent all summer uprooting them by hand, which was not fun and took a while. Seems to have gotten rid of them, fingers crossed they won't come back again this year.
Problem is though that the uprooting made the lawn rather lumpy and covered in small (and some not so small) craters plus lots of small bare patches. Just rolling the ground isn't going to fix it so could anybody advise on how to smooth things out nicely? Mrs Zax wants to redo the whole thing which I would rather avoid unless absolutely necessary
I'm not very green fingered...Thanks!
Sorry to hijack your thread, I am afraid I can't help.
I too have issues with the quality of my lawn. Has anyone used http://www.greenthumb.co.uk/index.html ? Just booked a free survey and be useful to get some idea from those that have used the service to find out if it's worth while.
Thanks
P
I too have issues with the quality of my lawn. Has anyone used http://www.greenthumb.co.uk/index.html ? Just booked a free survey and be useful to get some idea from those that have used the service to find out if it's worth while.
Thanks
P
Regular mowing (eg every week) will go a long way to fixing it. Most weeds can't stand being cut down so low every week. Monthly treatments of lawn weedkiller will bump off most of the rest. You just have to be persistent and patient.
ATEOTD you're trying to modify nature. Nature doesn't like being modified so it will always take effort.
ATEOTD you're trying to modify nature. Nature doesn't like being modified so it will always take effort.
MRSNEAK said:
Sorry to hijack your thread, I am afraid I can't help.
Start your own thread then? Thats what most people do!I live in a new build estate where the builders put down terrible 'topsoil' on top of poorly drained land so for the first couple of years everyones lawn looked yellow and covered in weeds and bare patches, similar to yours I'd expect.
However as Simpo suggested those who mow their lawns often seem to have the best looking lawns now, coupled with regular feed weed, raking out of moss/thatch, reseeding bare patches and a bit of aeration now and again the lawn will slowly improve.
It's a slow process but keep persisting!
The product you require is "Lawn Sand". It's a mix of seed, sand and fertiliser.
Find the dips caused by uprooting stuff and put some of the stuff in them.
Key steps to a nice lawn:
(1) Mow regularly (weekly) - never take off a huge whack in one go if you can help it.
(2) Uproot lawn weeds weekly. Don't let them get a hold. Get 'em young.
(3) Feed your lawn twice a year. Don't use weed and feed if it doesn't need the "weed" part.
(4) Use feed and weed if it DOES need the weed part
(5) Twice a year rake out the lawn to remove old "thatch" (dead grass) and moss
(6) Once a year "scarify" the lawn. i.e. Use a garden fork to prong drainage holes in it.
Please note correction to (5)(6) below. Scarifying removes thatch (5). Aeration (6) lets water into the lawn etc. Brain fade, there. Sorry.
Although that lot sounds like a lot of work (and it is on a big lawn) on a domestic lawn it's about half an hour a week.
Laying a lawn is another skill in and of itself. I hate that. Personally I always go for getting decent topsoil, getting it properly level and packed down and simply turfing it. Instant results.
New turf need a lot of care though to get it rooted properly.
Good luck. Personally I don't like either gardening or lawncare but I DO like the results and so am willing to put in (just) enough effort for it to look respectable...
Find the dips caused by uprooting stuff and put some of the stuff in them.
Key steps to a nice lawn:
(1) Mow regularly (weekly) - never take off a huge whack in one go if you can help it.
(2) Uproot lawn weeds weekly. Don't let them get a hold. Get 'em young.
(3) Feed your lawn twice a year. Don't use weed and feed if it doesn't need the "weed" part.
(4) Use feed and weed if it DOES need the weed part
(5) Twice a year rake out the lawn to remove old "thatch" (dead grass) and moss
(6) Once a year "scarify" the lawn. i.e. Use a garden fork to prong drainage holes in it.
Please note correction to (5)(6) below. Scarifying removes thatch (5). Aeration (6) lets water into the lawn etc. Brain fade, there. Sorry.
Although that lot sounds like a lot of work (and it is on a big lawn) on a domestic lawn it's about half an hour a week.
Laying a lawn is another skill in and of itself. I hate that. Personally I always go for getting decent topsoil, getting it properly level and packed down and simply turfing it. Instant results.
New turf need a lot of care though to get it rooted properly.
Good luck. Personally I don't like either gardening or lawncare but I DO like the results and so am willing to put in (just) enough effort for it to look respectable...
Edited by Don on Thursday 16th April 08:14
Oh...
If you get patchy dead bits in the lawn? And lots of crane flies and cockchafers? You will find the grubs are eating the roots our from underneath the lawn.
Kill the b
ds in July with Chafer grub/leatherjacket killer. If you're all organic you can get some stuff from The Green Gardener that does this with nematodes. If you don't care about all that bks you can buy a specialised grub killer from any Garden Centre.
If you get patchy dead bits in the lawn? And lots of crane flies and cockchafers? You will find the grubs are eating the roots our from underneath the lawn.
Kill the b
ds in July with Chafer grub/leatherjacket killer. If you're all organic you can get some stuff from The Green Gardener that does this with nematodes. If you don't care about all that bks you can buy a specialised grub killer from any Garden Centre.Don said:
The product you require is "Lawn Sand". It's a mix of seed, sand and fertiliser.
A glimmer of memory tells me it might have ferrous sulphate in as well (ie mosskiller)?Don said:
(5) Twice a year rake out the lawn to remove old "thatch" (dead grass) and moss
(6) Once a year "scarify" the lawn. i.e. Use a garden fork to prong drainage holes in it.
Scarifying is actually a mechanical version of raking, ie your step 5. Drainage is a separate issue, but yes, you have all the steps there. I used to work for a garden chemicals company, and for a while got all the chemicals for free, but am content now to have a lawn as bad as all the people who wrote into me!(6) Once a year "scarify" the lawn. i.e. Use a garden fork to prong drainage holes in it.
Don said:
If you get patchy dead bits in the lawn? And lots of crane flies and cockchafers? You will find the grubs are eating the roots our from underneath the lawn.
I had that too. Have you ever been out with a torch on a night that craneflies are emerging? It's quite eerie. (and you can use a pesticide called 'Size 10' 
)Edited by Simpo Two on Tuesday 14th April 10:14
I agree with much of what Don is saying I would comment as follows
Weedkiller may be preferable to pulling out weeds which may have deep roots which just come again (such as dandylions). You would be best to use a specific lawn one which targets only broad leaf weed (However if you apply to heavily it will affect the grass) You can by a thing like a "prit stick" for small aplications.
If you feel brave use a systemic weedkiller such as "roundup" with a paint brush to apply to the weeds only, works best on a sunny day. (given this will kill what it touches down to the root be careful not to spill/ get on the grass or stand on treated areas and walk all over your lawn.)
I'd also warn that after any application of weedkiller / Fertiliser you should stay off your grass as you may well leave foot prints!
eta if using weed killer best not to mow for a week or so after application to let the plants pass down the nasty stuff to the roots
Don said:
The product you require is "Lawn Sand". It's a mix of seed, sand and fertiliser.
Find the dips caused by uprooting stuff and put some of the stuff in them.
Lawn sand should always be spread evenly across a lawn, (Best results from a spinning spreader rather than one which drops from above) As it contains fert & usually weed/moss killer Spot treating will create patches. If you are filling holes use a mixture of sand/soil and seed only.Find the dips caused by uprooting stuff and put some of the stuff in them.
Don said:
(5) Twice a year rake out the lawn to remove old "thatch" (dead grass) and moss.
This is better done in the autumn not the spring as it may damage fresh growth. (On a young lawn you wish to encourage the grass to tiller, ie spread and fill the gaps)Weedkiller may be preferable to pulling out weeds which may have deep roots which just come again (such as dandylions). You would be best to use a specific lawn one which targets only broad leaf weed (However if you apply to heavily it will affect the grass) You can by a thing like a "prit stick" for small aplications.
If you feel brave use a systemic weedkiller such as "roundup" with a paint brush to apply to the weeds only, works best on a sunny day. (given this will kill what it touches down to the root be careful not to spill/ get on the grass or stand on treated areas and walk all over your lawn.)
I'd also warn that after any application of weedkiller / Fertiliser you should stay off your grass as you may well leave foot prints!
eta if using weed killer best not to mow for a week or so after application to let the plants pass down the nasty stuff to the roots
Edited by AndyAudi on Tuesday 14th April 10:46
mechsympathy said:
I (well, my lawn) don't have patches but is very uneven with lots of small dips. If I fill the dips with sand/soil will the grass survive? Or should I not be so idle and lift a patch of turf to fill underneath?
If it's decent turf in the dip, and fairly small I'd just cut the dip into slices (deep enough to retain roots and mositure and fill the area below. then fold back. fill any cracks with soil & grass seed and keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't dry out.Edited by AndyAudi on Tuesday 14th April 10:56
Thanks for the replies, lots of food for thought there. Looks like I'll be doing a lot of raking, plucking, mowing and filling this summer 
Since we'll be getting another load of topsoil anyway (need to do the opposite side of the garage now) would it be very stupid to spread a thin layer of that over the most cratered parts, roll it flat then re-seed?
I think I feel another thread coming on about how to deal with our 2 metre tall, 45 degree, jungle covered bankings at the lawn edges
Since we'll be getting another load of topsoil anyway (need to do the opposite side of the garage now) would it be very stupid to spread a thin layer of that over the most cratered parts, roll it flat then re-seed?
I think I feel another thread coming on about how to deal with our 2 metre tall, 45 degree, jungle covered bankings at the lawn edges
zax said:
Thanks for the replies, lots of food for thought there. Looks like I'll be doing a lot of raking, plucking, mowing and filling this summer
Since we'll be getting another load of topsoil anyway (need to do the opposite side of the garage now) would it be very stupid to spread a thin layer of that over the most cratered parts, roll it flat then re-seed?
I think I feel another thread coming on about how to deal with our 2 metre tall, 45 degree, jungle covered bankings at the lawn edges
I think that would be a lot of work.Since we'll be getting another load of topsoil anyway (need to do the opposite side of the garage now) would it be very stupid to spread a thin layer of that over the most cratered parts, roll it flat then re-seed?
I think I feel another thread coming on about how to deal with our 2 metre tall, 45 degree, jungle covered bankings at the lawn edges
The key with lawns is not anything special apart from consistent mowing. If you don't commit to that then gravel it, as you will never get anything near a good lawn.
To be fair by the size of the weeds, I don't think it has been mowed in a while...
The reason why a lawn stays grass and not just becomes over grown is that you are creating an unnatural environment. That environment is that the only things that can grow are things that can mature and reproduce between 2cm and 5cm high. Thats not much apart from grass. Let that slip though and you let all kinds of crap grow through.
If you mow that lawn now down to a couple of inches you will get rid of the weeds, then throughout the summer slightly lower the height each time down to an inch in September. That will get rid of 95% of the weeds and leave you with at least something usable that you can see what is going on, then you can start filling in the holes etc.
Good luck!
The main thing to reiterate though is there is no bother starting this unless you are willing to commit to cutting once a week religiously. If that is a chore, rather than spend on topsoil and reseeding invest in a Robomower. I have one myself and my weekly cut involves me switching on the perimeter wire, setting it down and pressing the green button and cracking open a beer.
swerni said:
Hate to disagree with such a pillar of the community but.
scarifying the lawn is raking it either by hand or hire a scarifier (well worth it), you will take tonnes of moss out and it also strengthens the roots of the grass and encourages growth.
What you are referring to is aerating.
HTH
ps would recommend doing both
You are quite right. Case of brain fade, there. Yes - scarifying AND aerating. Tend to do the two together and call the lot scarifying - which is not correct.scarifying the lawn is raking it either by hand or hire a scarifier (well worth it), you will take tonnes of moss out and it also strengthens the roots of the grass and encourages growth.
What you are referring to is aerating.
HTH
ps would recommend doing both
The important thing is to get the thatch moss and crap out and reduce the compaction of the surface so as to let water into the lawn.
Bloody lawns. They are actually harder work than beds, I reckon. A bed practically looks after itself if you plant through a membrane and cover that with a thick layer of bark. Looks pretty, only needs the occasional weed.
Lawns - loadsawork.
MRSNEAK said:
Busamav said:
We have used Greenthumb for 19 months now and it has transformed the lawn.
Not as expensive as you would imagine
Hi, Not as expensive as you would imagine
How do they charge? Is it a one fee or regular payment? Would I be as well buying stuff from garden centre?
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