Discussion
Does anyone know where I might find an early 850 in need of restoration for a sensible price. I really want a pre-'65 car, non-hydrolastic ideally, although I could convert one to dry. I want to restore an absolutely standard 850 to 'mint' condition in surf or clipper blue.
It does need to be a complete car with an identity, although the need for bodywork in not a great problem.
It does need to be a complete car with an identity, although the need for bodywork in not a great problem.
I've got a '60 shell in my garage. It's spanking and I'm fed up with describing it. Needs attention to the bit below the boot and the front valance. Otherwise the boot floor has been patched and the sills/a panels/floor are as original 1960 and look like new. It's a great shell, an ex racer, shabby as hell, been in the back of a dry garage for 30 years and is sat in my garage with dry subframes as original as well as 6 fig registration. It belongs to my mate, he wants £500 which is a bargain if you ask me.
If no-one buys it, I will have to put a Type R engine in the back, as I allready have a perfect mk1 FWD.
Edit:- this would actually be a shame to convert to another Mk1 850 it so isn't. It would make a lovely period racer. It would be a shame to waste it trying to give it some originality.
If no-one buys it, I will have to put a Type R engine in the back, as I allready have a perfect mk1 FWD.
Edit:- this would actually be a shame to convert to another Mk1 850 it so isn't. It would make a lovely period racer. It would be a shame to waste it trying to give it some originality.
Edited by love machine on Thursday 4th October 01:01
I think I might have found a potentially lovely 1966 Morris Mini 850 with a genuine 47000 miles on the clock. It's in nice condition, needing just a pair of front wings, a pair of 'A'panels, some other light restoration but no major panel or floor work. It's all original in island blue and would make a 'mint' example with very little work. The downside is that it's hydrolastic, which I really don't like, but I guess I would convert it to dry, hoping this would not spoil it's originality in the eyes of too many people. The guy wants c.£1000 for it which seems reasonable to me, as fully restored it would be worth a lot more than that.
I have always just re-used the wet front sub-frame, knocked back the hydro location lugs and fitted the rubber cones. All you then need is a pair of 1/4" spacers on the turret tops and 'dry' top arms. Although I've never done it, I do believe that the hydro top arms can be used with dry cones, although it slightly alters the geometry.
Of course, damper mounting brackets are also needed.
On the back, I would fit a new sub-frame anyway.
Also, whenever I re-build a Mini I always run the brake, battery and fuel lines inside the shell, just for safety.
Of course, damper mounting brackets are also needed.
On the back, I would fit a new sub-frame anyway.
Also, whenever I re-build a Mini I always run the brake, battery and fuel lines inside the shell, just for safety.
I can't remember the difference between dry and wet top arms, but they ARE different as I had a few of them and thought "hang on" I bunged a set on and they are either one or the other 
goes fine though. From what I remember, the shock mount is slightly different.
Are the hydro rear arms different as I have one of each (long story) and I had to adjust my adjusty brackets a fair bit on one side.....maybe bent.
Anyway, one is bent after my chum decided to do a John Rhodes around the local business park (test track)----(it's private and he had space there).
goes fine though. From what I remember, the shock mount is slightly different. Are the hydro rear arms different as I have one of each (long story) and I had to adjust my adjusty brackets a fair bit on one side.....maybe bent.
Anyway, one is bent after my chum decided to do a John Rhodes around the local business park (test track)----(it's private and he had space there).
Skyedriver said:
Is that a jig or permanent spaceframe?
Tony H
its a jig to hold the cross member in the correct place and so i dont loose the door gap sizes or the scuttle location.Tony H
ive cut out (deep breath) both full inner wings, both inner and outer a panels, both door posts, both door jambs, the ends of the door steps, both wings, the front panel, the entire scuttle, the scuttle closers.
without the jig (and the front frame)fitted its possible to pull the box part of the bulkhead in and out like an acordian, with it bolted/welded there is no movement. all the bars make it easy to measure datum points, hang tools on, attach ratchet straps and portapacks to, though on this shell the last two havent been needed yet!
with minimal cutting/unbolting it will come out, square the ends of the datum tubes up and it will go again
so far ive remade both ends of the bulkhead box, the rh end of the bulkhead, the lh of the toeboard, fitted the rh inner wing, door jamb, post, shocker stiffener, and repaired the ends of the parcel shelf.
happy days!
love machine said:
That must be one rare mini for you to do that to. Is it an early prototype or a works racer?
That looks like a scrapyard job to me.
nah, its just a circa 1964 shell thats someone has attached a 1990's floor to, sure, its easy to buy a decent shell and just discard ones like this as 'too much work' but ive done so many minis i get fed up just sticking sills and fronts on them, That looks like a scrapyard job to me.
ive had a week off work and wanted something to get in in the garage and have a good go at!
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