modding an RR Classic for off roading
Discussion
due to them been incredibly cheap to buy these days me and a riend are planning to buy an 80s RR classic with the purpose of green laning/off roading in mind, obviously it will be kept road legal and insured to get to and from the places but it will be by no means a daily driver, which ones make the best off roaders the EFIs or carbed models? im not really bothered about wether its an auto or manual either in fact i would assume a manual would be better? im also not fussed about the spec leather,a/c etc i will just buy the first one that looks like its going to run the longest for the right money, so my real questions were what do i need to do to it to get it very capable off road(not that they arnt in standard trim) i was thinking some intermediade tires to start with?, and then a snorkel and to protect the spark plugs so they dont get wet? although i dont know much about doing these things myself so it would be great to hear from any of you guys that have actully done it, it looks like great fun and will certainly be something to keep me amused through the winter when i cant ride my bike.
I did exactly this a couple of years ago. Did the first pay-and-play site in completely standard trim (front spoiler, road tyres and all), and even then its capability off road amazed me.
Subsequently, I removed the front spoiler, added a couple of recovery rings under the front bumper, and put on some all-terrains...and that's about it! Aside from getting hung up on the tow hitch once (and sitting on the axles trying to get through some particularly deep ruts) I've had little problem off road. Oh, and you soon learn to relocate the front number plate to the top of the dashboard after bending it back the first half-dozen times!
It is addictive though, and I wish I had bought mud tyres from the outset...if it's a toy, you can live with the road noise when you have to.
I specifically wanted an auto (manual RR just seems wrong!) and find it is better for maintaining momentum in deep mud/water. Horses for courses.
WD40 and wellies is all you need....DO IT!
ETA; if you want one with a duff head gasket, let me know...
Pic added.
Subsequently, I removed the front spoiler, added a couple of recovery rings under the front bumper, and put on some all-terrains...and that's about it! Aside from getting hung up on the tow hitch once (and sitting on the axles trying to get through some particularly deep ruts) I've had little problem off road. Oh, and you soon learn to relocate the front number plate to the top of the dashboard after bending it back the first half-dozen times!
It is addictive though, and I wish I had bought mud tyres from the outset...if it's a toy, you can live with the road noise when you have to.
I specifically wanted an auto (manual RR just seems wrong!) and find it is better for maintaining momentum in deep mud/water. Horses for courses.
WD40 and wellies is all you need....DO IT!
ETA; if you want one with a duff head gasket, let me know...
Pic added. Edited by t0ny99 on Tuesday 8th August 15:39
Edited by t0ny99 on Tuesday 8th August 15:44
well i do want to get a modern RR at some point mainly because i like them but taking one off road seems stupid, the classic is such a robust vechicle and parts are easy to come by and cheap that it seems well worth doing, im not fussed by having either an auto or manual but i would have thought the auto might be slightly more likely to go wrong?,also did you put a snorkel on and waterproof it? i understand this is the main issue with the V8s-they dont like water much in standard form.
editied to add how much did you want for your one? it looks great by the way.
editied to add how much did you want for your one? it looks great by the way.
Edited by YamR1V64motion on Tuesday 8th August 15:53
YamR1V64motion said:
well i do want to get a modern RR at some point mainly because i like them but taking one off road seems stupid, the classic is such a robust vechicle and parts are easy to come by and cheap that it seems well worth doing, im not fussed by having either an auto or manual but i would have thought the auto might be slightly more likely to go wrong?,also did you put a snorkel on and waterproof it? i understand this is the main issue with the V8s-they dont like water much in standard form.
editied to add how much did you want for your one? it looks great by the way.
editied to add how much did you want for your one? it looks great by the way.
Edited by YamR1V64motion on Tuesday 8th August 15:53
Never had a problem with the auto box; steep descents you can shift into 1st anyway. Shifting the transfer box was stiff at first as they rarely get used. Mine has manual diff-lock (which you WILL need), slightly later had a viscous-coupling type. I have never waded water deep enough to require a snorkel...water-proofing the dizzy would be more of a priority, hence the WD40 comment
If you're going to get THAT serious, go for a diesel... Mine had had new paint, top and bottom tailgates, and a bunch of other bits before I bought it...you soon stop worrying about the paintwork though!
I added the Compomotive 5-spokes (from a Def' 90) and ATs
As purchased:
Edited by t0ny99 on Tuesday 8th August 16:11
I have a 91 v8 auto on lpg.
Have removed spoiler, added a steering guard with recovery points, diff guards, a cb and some 235/85 ATs.
Rest is standard. It is pretty capable as it is having done Langdale Quest and the likes of Sarn Helen and Strata Florida in Wales. Next step will be a 2 inch lift, rock sliders, and possibly a winch.
The enemy of the v8 is water on the electrics. I just spray everything with WD40 and hope for the best. Snorkels are to prevent water being sucked in via the induction system. If you want to go swimming get a diesel, but bear in mind that the cabins are not watertight. I would go for a 3.9 EFi as parts are cheap and it is a pretty simple setup.
I also use mine as a daily driver, picture in profile. I guess mine is worth about 1000 to 1500 now. but it has had a replacement engine, transferbox and gearbox.
One advantage of auto's that you don't lose momentum when changing gear but you don't have the total control of what gear when.
Have removed spoiler, added a steering guard with recovery points, diff guards, a cb and some 235/85 ATs.
Rest is standard. It is pretty capable as it is having done Langdale Quest and the likes of Sarn Helen and Strata Florida in Wales. Next step will be a 2 inch lift, rock sliders, and possibly a winch.
The enemy of the v8 is water on the electrics. I just spray everything with WD40 and hope for the best. Snorkels are to prevent water being sucked in via the induction system. If you want to go swimming get a diesel, but bear in mind that the cabins are not watertight. I would go for a 3.9 EFi as parts are cheap and it is a pretty simple setup.
I also use mine as a daily driver, picture in profile. I guess mine is worth about 1000 to 1500 now. but it has had a replacement engine, transferbox and gearbox.
One advantage of auto's that you don't lose momentum when changing gear but you don't have the total control of what gear when.
Liszt said:
Have removed spoiler, added a steering guard with recovery points, diff guards, a cb and some 235/85 ATs.
Do you have any problems with those rubbing? I have 235/70s to keep the same rolling radius, and under (admitedly extreme) compression the rears will scrub the arches.
Nice looking truck, by the way!
Edited by t0ny99 on Tuesday 8th August 16:55
Yeah they scub a little bit but I have folded the flange flat so it doesn't cut in. Have heavy duty springs fitted which also help a little, but really a lift is the only way to go. I'd be happy with a 2" suspension lift and a 2" body lift as I'm 6'4" it's easy to live with but swmbo disagrees.
If you go in water with a v8 you will need
vaseline filled marigold (cut fingers off and extra holes needed) to cover the dizzy. Heard of a couple of people using this but not seen one yet. There is a commercial offering but can't remember who by. Buy shares in WD40. I have also seen one with various electrical items inside ice cream containers sealed at the bottom with silicone. If it does get water in he peels the lids open and sprays wd40 inside for good measure.
Oh yes and the door seals are for keeping the mud and water in not out apparently - you will need to open the door to let it out
I prefer manual boxes for descents
vaseline filled marigold (cut fingers off and extra holes needed) to cover the dizzy. Heard of a couple of people using this but not seen one yet. There is a commercial offering but can't remember who by. Buy shares in WD40. I have also seen one with various electrical items inside ice cream containers sealed at the bottom with silicone. If it does get water in he peels the lids open and sprays wd40 inside for good measure.
Oh yes and the door seals are for keeping the mud and water in not out apparently - you will need to open the door to let it out
I prefer manual boxes for descents
I've gotta say do, ive off-roaded various landys over the years, the rangie being one of the best. It was so good infact when I got the urge to get a 90 i couldnt sell it!!!! so ended up bobtailing it!
Tyres will be the best improvement for you pounds. but big tyres means body and suspension modds which can get pricy!
Tyres will be the best improvement for you pounds. but big tyres means body and suspension modds which can get pricy!
Good plan 
If I were you I'd try and buy one that someone has already kitted out for off-roading as thats the cheapest way of getting one thats sorted for off-roading as all the extra goodies add little to the value. (accepted ones with cages. winches etc will obviously be worth more, but generally M/T's and underbody protection doesn't add much and can put more people off the car) Also you may get lucky and find one that someone has just kitted out but change of circumstances means they're getting rid. (Done that myself years ago with a Rangie I spent £'000's on and then had no time to use and got about 50% of my cost back )
Ideally one that been enthusiast owned and well maintained. Nothing wrong with it been used off road so long as its cleaned off afterwards and regularly rust proofed and items like suspension bushes/trackrod ends/propshaft U/J's etc that take a hammering off road have been replaced.
Or if you get a solid base vehicle I'd go for a non-ABS model as when I've used them off road the ABS gets pretty annoying and is something else to go wrong. 3.5Efi not hugely more powerful than 3.5 carb, so 3.9Efi is all round best performer. 4.2 only in LSE and would be a crime to trash off roading! Lots have been retro fitted with Tdi, which is a great engine and although its never a V8 at least it stops you worrying about water hazards. Auto or manual, loads of debate over and I think either is fine in a Rangie, so don't miss out on a good manual for the sake of holding out for an auto or vice-versa.
If I were you I'd try and buy one that someone has already kitted out for off-roading as thats the cheapest way of getting one thats sorted for off-roading as all the extra goodies add little to the value. (accepted ones with cages. winches etc will obviously be worth more, but generally M/T's and underbody protection doesn't add much and can put more people off the car) Also you may get lucky and find one that someone has just kitted out but change of circumstances means they're getting rid. (Done that myself years ago with a Rangie I spent £'000's on and then had no time to use and got about 50% of my cost back
) Ideally one that been enthusiast owned and well maintained. Nothing wrong with it been used off road so long as its cleaned off afterwards and regularly rust proofed and items like suspension bushes/trackrod ends/propshaft U/J's etc that take a hammering off road have been replaced.
Or if you get a solid base vehicle I'd go for a non-ABS model as when I've used them off road the ABS gets pretty annoying and is something else to go wrong. 3.5Efi not hugely more powerful than 3.5 carb, so 3.9Efi is all round best performer. 4.2 only in LSE and would be a crime to trash off roading! Lots have been retro fitted with Tdi, which is a great engine and although its never a V8 at least it stops you worrying about water hazards. Auto or manual, loads of debate over and I think either is fine in a Rangie, so don't miss out on a good manual for the sake of holding out for an auto or vice-versa.
from what ive been looking at most seem to be 3.5 or 3.9 Vogue or Vogue Se, manuals seem to be rarer and generally automatics sound a better bet from what people on here have posted, i was planning to spend about £1000 or so on one, i dont mind wether it has many luxuries in it as ive already mentioned as i will be getting another car for everyday use soon, i might have to use it as my main transport for a week or so but thats all.
my plan is to replace the 406 with one so whatever i get for that i will be spending on a Rangie, also is it worth getting one with LPG? there seem to be a few cheap ones with it fitted but i was concerned that off roading may upset it a little? also MPG isnt really a huge issue as i wont be doing many miles in it, just to and from places to take it off road and perhaps the odd trip to the pub or supermarket if i dont have my car for whatever reason.
my plan is to replace the 406 with one so whatever i get for that i will be spending on a Rangie, also is it worth getting one with LPG? there seem to be a few cheap ones with it fitted but i was concerned that off roading may upset it a little? also MPG isnt really a huge issue as i wont be doing many miles in it, just to and from places to take it off road and perhaps the odd trip to the pub or supermarket if i dont have my car for whatever reason.
Edited by YamR1V64motion on Tuesday 8th August 21:01
I wouldn't bother with one LPG'd at that price as you'd be buying more trouble than its worth. For £1,000 the chances are it'll be an old conversion (possobly a bodged DIY job)that probably needs components replacing and will give you some headaches and is just something else to go wrong and throw money at. Also underslung tanks are not the best idea off roading, so would mean a boot job = no loadspace.
church said:
I wouldn't bother with one LPG'd at that price as you'd be buying more trouble than its worth. For £1,000 the chances are it'll be an old conversion (possobly a bodged DIY job)that probably needs components replacing and will give you some headaches and is just something else to go wrong and throw money at. Also underslung tanks are not the best idea off roading, so would mean a boot job = no loadspace.
thats what i was thinking, if im not doing high milage in it, which i wont be then im not too worried about the MPG, for £1000-£1500 i should be able to find a petrol 3.5 or 3.9 Vogue though without much difficulty?
With £1,000 - £1,500 it is at the lower end of the scale, so there will be comprimises in condition but for what you want it for I'd forget about "cosmetic" items and concentrate on the chassis and structural parts and the mechanics. A really nice classic of any vintage will still command £3k+ IMHO. Best thing you can do is view a selection and get a feel for whats out there, and if you find a good one buy it!!
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