THE want for MORE POWER !!!!!!!!!! Best option????
Discussion
Thanks to everyone.............
With all your help i have really got my head round this topic now, ive learned all about strokes, bores, cranks, heads stages 2/3/4 etc gas flowing cams porting etc etc.........
I've budgeted on £4k to build a good engine, and also keep my original factory 4.0 precat engine....
Cheers again for all your help guys
Andy
With all your help i have really got my head round this topic now, ive learned all about strokes, bores, cranks, heads stages 2/3/4 etc gas flowing cams porting etc etc.........
I've budgeted on £4k to build a good engine, and also keep my original factory 4.0 precat engine....
Cheers again for all your help guys
Andy
I know this is about 4.0 motors but just to add a little for the 5Ltr fellas
As Cliff says depends what you want to spend
This is how i would Start if i had my time over again knowing what i know now !!!!
If i had a standard griff this is where i would start and with the benefit of hindsight the order i would do it in.
Junk the suspension and replace with Nitrons
Front springs 450lb rears 375lb
Bigger brake discs and four pot callipers.... i went to the extreme and went for 17" rims at the same time 330mm discs and AP Racing 4 pot callipers.
Then look at the Engine...........
This is what i consider is the first stage.
72mm plenum and blended 45mm trumpet base and a spacer to stop heat transfer.
Smooth 45deg pipe from air flow meter to plenum then insulate the straight pipe from the air filter to the air flow meter as Cliff as described in the past.
Remove pre cats then fit a cat replacement pipe like the ones that Cliff makes and i have to say they are a work of art not sure he is making them anymore though.
Then shell out for a J&P Super Sports exhaust.
All of the above should give you around 280 to 290 HP if your lucky.
Stage Two...
THIS IS WHERE YOU HAVE TO DECIDE WHAT YOU ARE PREPARED TO PUT UP WITH AS REGARDS DRIVABILITY !!!
Get rid of the air flow meter and replace the ECU
There are many choices so do a search and read up
Get rid of the Dizzy at the same time.
Select preferably from someone like Rob Robbo a wilder cam.
I went mental and Rob ground me a special one off because drive ability was not so much of an issue to me.
Junk the Hydraulic lifters and go solid Cam !! as they can take higher revs.
Then find someone like Joo X of Track Car Solutions to tune it up and Jamie of Castle Race to dial in the cam.
What you end up with is a 350Hp monster which below 2000rpm is an absolute Pig to drive but i Loved it
Stage 3.....
Well you have to get on board someone with the skill of Spend to take the engine to the next level as far as breathing is concerned and many other things that are far beyond my comprehension
I am still learning but i can tell you this... it gets harder and harder to gain every single HP the higher your motor climes
Have you lot heard of the Law of Diminishing Returns ?
Soon i will have my engine back together again and as to what the power output will be God Knows but as far as i am concerned all i want is as much HP from a 5Ltr Normally Aspirated Engine that's the rules of engagement with this Griff of Mine
Good luck to All of you new owners in your quest for more power but be aware it can become a costly obsession.
Pasco
As Cliff says depends what you want to spend
This is how i would Start if i had my time over again knowing what i know now !!!!
If i had a standard griff this is where i would start and with the benefit of hindsight the order i would do it in.
Junk the suspension and replace with Nitrons
Front springs 450lb rears 375lb
Bigger brake discs and four pot callipers.... i went to the extreme and went for 17" rims at the same time 330mm discs and AP Racing 4 pot callipers.
Then look at the Engine...........
This is what i consider is the first stage.
72mm plenum and blended 45mm trumpet base and a spacer to stop heat transfer.
Smooth 45deg pipe from air flow meter to plenum then insulate the straight pipe from the air filter to the air flow meter as Cliff as described in the past.
Remove pre cats then fit a cat replacement pipe like the ones that Cliff makes and i have to say they are a work of art not sure he is making them anymore though.
Then shell out for a J&P Super Sports exhaust.
All of the above should give you around 280 to 290 HP if your lucky.
Stage Two...
THIS IS WHERE YOU HAVE TO DECIDE WHAT YOU ARE PREPARED TO PUT UP WITH AS REGARDS DRIVABILITY !!!
Get rid of the air flow meter and replace the ECU
There are many choices so do a search and read up
Get rid of the Dizzy at the same time.
Select preferably from someone like Rob Robbo a wilder cam.
I went mental and Rob ground me a special one off because drive ability was not so much of an issue to me.
Junk the Hydraulic lifters and go solid Cam !! as they can take higher revs.
Then find someone like Joo X of Track Car Solutions to tune it up and Jamie of Castle Race to dial in the cam.
What you end up with is a 350Hp monster which below 2000rpm is an absolute Pig to drive but i Loved it
Stage 3.....
Well you have to get on board someone with the skill of Spend to take the engine to the next level as far as breathing is concerned and many other things that are far beyond my comprehension
I am still learning but i can tell you this... it gets harder and harder to gain every single HP the higher your motor climes
Have you lot heard of the Law of Diminishing Returns ?
Soon i will have my engine back together again and as to what the power output will be God Knows but as far as i am concerned all i want is as much HP from a 5Ltr Normally Aspirated Engine that's the rules of engagement with this Griff of Mine
Good luck to All of you new owners in your quest for more power but be aware it can become a costly obsession.
Pasco
Edited by Pasco on Sunday 30th January 01:20
Edited by Pasco on Sunday 30th January 01:21
[quote=Pasco]
This is how i would Start if i had my time over again knowing what i know now !!!!
If i had a standard griff this is where i would start and with the benefit of hindsight the order i would do it in.
Junk the suspension and replace with Nitrons
Front springs 450lb rears 375lb
................................................................#### DONE ####
Bigger brake discs and four pot callipers.... i went to the extreme and went for 17" rims at the same time 330mm discs and AP Racing 4 pot callipers
........................................................ ### MASSIVE BILLET 4 POTS DONE ####
Then look at the Engine...........
Pasco
Some serious advice there Pasco, many many thanks.
P.S let me know how you end up with your engine ......
This is how i would Start if i had my time over again knowing what i know now !!!!
If i had a standard griff this is where i would start and with the benefit of hindsight the order i would do it in.
Junk the suspension and replace with Nitrons
Front springs 450lb rears 375lb
................................................................#### DONE ####
Bigger brake discs and four pot callipers.... i went to the extreme and went for 17" rims at the same time 330mm discs and AP Racing 4 pot callipers
........................................................ ### MASSIVE BILLET 4 POTS DONE ####
Then look at the Engine...........
Pasco
Some serious advice there Pasco, many many thanks.
P.S let me know how you end up with your engine ......
Edited by 3024E on Sunday 30th January 12:51
Pasco said:
I know this is about 4.0 motors but just to add a little for the 5Ltr fellas
As Cliff says depends what you want to spend
This is how i would Start if i had my time over again knowing what i know now !!!!
If i had a standard griff this is where i would start and with the benefit of hindsight the order i would do it in.
Junk the suspension and replace with Nitrons
Front springs 450lb rears 375lb
Bigger brake discs and four pot callipers.... i went to the extreme and went for 17" rims at the same time 330mm discs and AP Racing 4 pot callipers.
Then look at the Engine...........
This is what i consider is the first stage.
72mm plenum and blended 45mm trumpet base and a spacer to stop heat transfer.
Smooth 45deg pipe from air flow meter to plenum then insulate the straight pipe from the air filter to the air flow meter as Cliff as described in the past.
Remove pre cats then fit a cat replacement pipe like the ones that Cliff makes and i have to say they are a work of art not sure he is making them anymore though.
Then shell out for a J&P Super Sports exhaust.
All of the above should give you around 280 to 290 HP if your lucky.
Stage Two...
THIS IS WHERE YOU HAVE TO DECIDE WHAT YOU ARE PREPARED TO PUT UP WITH AS REGARDS DRIVABILITY !!!
Get rid of the air flow meter and replace the ECU
There are many choices so do a search and read up
Get rid of the Dizzy at the same time.
Select preferably from someone like Rob Robbo a wilder cam.
I went mental and Rob ground me a special one off because drive ability was not so much of an issue to me.
Junk the Hydraulic lifters and go solid Cam !! as they can take higher revs.
Then find someone like Joo X of Track Car Solutions to tune it up and Jamie of Castle Race to dial in the cam.
What you end up with is a 350Hp monster which below 2000rpm is an absolute Pig to drive but i Loved it
Stage 3.....
Well you have to get on board someone with the skill of Spend to take the engine to the next level as far as breathing is concerned and many other things that are far beyond my comprehension
I am still learning but i can tell you this... it gets harder and harder to gain every single HP the higher your motor climes
Have you lot heard of the Law of Diminishing Returns ?
Soon i will have my engine back together again and as to what the power output will be God Knows but as far as i am concerned all i want is as much HP from a 5Ltr Normally Aspirated Engine that's the rules of engagement with this Griff of Mine
Good luck to All of you new owners in your quest for more power but be aware it can become a costly obsession.
Pasco ]
WOW that is an impressive list Pasco.... I was wondering how you managed to get 350BHP. That really is a monster Griff!As Cliff says depends what you want to spend
This is how i would Start if i had my time over again knowing what i know now !!!!
If i had a standard griff this is where i would start and with the benefit of hindsight the order i would do it in.
Junk the suspension and replace with Nitrons
Front springs 450lb rears 375lb
Bigger brake discs and four pot callipers.... i went to the extreme and went for 17" rims at the same time 330mm discs and AP Racing 4 pot callipers.
Then look at the Engine...........
This is what i consider is the first stage.
72mm plenum and blended 45mm trumpet base and a spacer to stop heat transfer.
Smooth 45deg pipe from air flow meter to plenum then insulate the straight pipe from the air filter to the air flow meter as Cliff as described in the past.
Remove pre cats then fit a cat replacement pipe like the ones that Cliff makes and i have to say they are a work of art not sure he is making them anymore though.
Then shell out for a J&P Super Sports exhaust.
All of the above should give you around 280 to 290 HP if your lucky.
Stage Two...
THIS IS WHERE YOU HAVE TO DECIDE WHAT YOU ARE PREPARED TO PUT UP WITH AS REGARDS DRIVABILITY !!!
Get rid of the air flow meter and replace the ECU
There are many choices so do a search and read up
Get rid of the Dizzy at the same time.
Select preferably from someone like Rob Robbo a wilder cam.
I went mental and Rob ground me a special one off because drive ability was not so much of an issue to me.
Junk the Hydraulic lifters and go solid Cam !! as they can take higher revs.
Then find someone like Joo X of Track Car Solutions to tune it up and Jamie of Castle Race to dial in the cam.
What you end up with is a 350Hp monster which below 2000rpm is an absolute Pig to drive but i Loved it
Stage 3.....
Well you have to get on board someone with the skill of Spend to take the engine to the next level as far as breathing is concerned and many other things that are far beyond my comprehension
I am still learning but i can tell you this... it gets harder and harder to gain every single HP the higher your motor climes
Have you lot heard of the Law of Diminishing Returns ?
Soon i will have my engine back together again and as to what the power output will be God Knows but as far as i am concerned all i want is as much HP from a 5Ltr Normally Aspirated Engine that's the rules of engagement with this Griff of Mine
Good luck to All of you new owners in your quest for more power but be aware it can become a costly obsession.
Pasco ]
I am probably going to do what you describe as Stage 1 + the suspension setup. I may go for a cam as well but will probably be a V8D stealth or TVR Power 885. Then hopefully stop there and just enjoy it for what it is.
One question though in the pursuit of more power why have you not opted for forced induction?
Green Meanie said:
Oh typical,all the hard work has been done for you Andy
Just the small job of the engine now!
Just knew I should have kept hold of it
G.M
I'M going to keep the original engine as is,,,,,,,,, and build anotherJust the small job of the engine now!
Just knew I should have kept hold of it
G.M
Just been offered a 4.0 out of a chimp with 56k on the clock for £750..... good start i hope
Edited by 3024E on Sunday 30th January 21:32
If I knew what I know now, I would have done the following (with the engine, starting with a 450):
Budget conscious: - 45mm superflare trumpets & inlet manifold, 72mm plenum, induction kit (the whole lot), heat insulator, wild cam, remap, sports manifolds and decat exhaust (300ish bhp I'd reckon)
Decent Power: - 45mm superflare trumpets & inlet manifold, induction kit (the whole lot), 72mm plenum, custom MC1 cam, supercharger (C38 Rotrex with smaller boost pulley), new ECU, 440CC/min injectors, sports manifolds, decat exhaust (425 bhp I'd reckon)
Budget Free (ish): - New Cosworth block, low comp pistons (4.8L), H beam rods, 4.8L steel crank, light flywheel, stage 4 heads, custom charger cam, big Rotrex charger (with a small boost pulley), big injectors, new ECU etc (500+ bhp??)
Ideal World: Wildcat full 6L RV8 with a pair of very large turbos (7-800 + bhp?)
Budget conscious: - 45mm superflare trumpets & inlet manifold, 72mm plenum, induction kit (the whole lot), heat insulator, wild cam, remap, sports manifolds and decat exhaust (300ish bhp I'd reckon)
Decent Power: - 45mm superflare trumpets & inlet manifold, induction kit (the whole lot), 72mm plenum, custom MC1 cam, supercharger (C38 Rotrex with smaller boost pulley), new ECU, 440CC/min injectors, sports manifolds, decat exhaust (425 bhp I'd reckon)
Budget Free (ish): - New Cosworth block, low comp pistons (4.8L), H beam rods, 4.8L steel crank, light flywheel, stage 4 heads, custom charger cam, big Rotrex charger (with a small boost pulley), big injectors, new ECU etc (500+ bhp??)
Ideal World: Wildcat full 6L RV8 with a pair of very large turbos (7-800 + bhp?)
Bolt a bracket on the parcel shelf if you aint shy or in the boot and fit an 11lb bottle. Mount a pair of WON pulsoids in the engine bay. Plumb in the line to the bottle and take a feed via a t-piece in the fuel line. Fit a crossfire injector into the inlet elbow and plumb to the pulsoids. Wire up the pulsoids to a safety toggle activation switch and a full throttle microswitch.
Jet for 50bhp with no other modifications
Jet for 100 - 150 bhp with a set of colder plugs and retard the ignition 6 degrees.
Get a bottle heater and gauge to keep the bottle pressure and therefore performance consistant.
Simple.
Jet for 50bhp with no other modifications
Jet for 100 - 150 bhp with a set of colder plugs and retard the ignition 6 degrees.
Get a bottle heater and gauge to keep the bottle pressure and therefore performance consistant.
Simple.
dbv8 said:
Bolt a bracket on the parcel shelf if you aint shy or in the boot and fit an 11lb bottle. Mount a pair of WON pulsoids in the engine bay. Plumb in the line to the bottle and take a feed via a t-piece in the fuel line. Fit a crossfire injector into the inlet elbow and plumb to the pulsoids. Wire up the pulsoids to a safety toggle activation switch and a full throttle microswitch.
Jet for 50bhp with no other modifications
Jet for 100 - 150 bhp with a set of colder plugs and retard the ignition 6 degrees.
Get a bottle heater and gauge to keep the bottle pressure and therefore performance consistant.
Simple.
Jet for 50bhp with no other modifications
Jet for 100 - 150 bhp with a set of colder plugs and retard the ignition 6 degrees.
Get a bottle heater and gauge to keep the bottle pressure and therefore performance consistant.
Simple.
dbv8 said:
Bolt a bracket on the parcel shelf if you aint shy or in the boot and fit an 11lb bottle. Mount a pair of WON pulsoids in the engine bay. Plumb in the line to the bottle and take a feed via a t-piece in the fuel line. Fit a crossfire injector into the inlet elbow and plumb to the pulsoids. Wire up the pulsoids to a safety toggle activation switch and a full throttle microswitch.
Jet for 50bhp with no other modifications
Jet for 100 - 150 bhp with a set of colder plugs and retard the ignition 6 degrees.
Get a bottle heater and gauge to keep the bottle pressure and therefore performance consistant.
Simple.
Ive said the same from day one... Spend 8 grand on super dooper engine that will never be used to it max hooning around . Nitros you only pay when you play. Got this in my Corvette & next step is the 500 Griff as well.Jet for 50bhp with no other modifications
Jet for 100 - 150 bhp with a set of colder plugs and retard the ignition 6 degrees.
Get a bottle heater and gauge to keep the bottle pressure and therefore performance consistant.
Simple.
Corvette hasnt got the bottle heater though... Looks good in chrome though,,,
3024E said:
I'M going to keep the original engine as is,,,,,,,,, and build another
Just been offered a 4.0 out of a chimp with 56k on the clock for £750..... good start i hope
Sorry but cant see the point of buying a 4.0 engine from a chimp, all it is going to be is a 9.35 range rover unit with a mild cam in it which may need replacing anyway, standard range rover heads etc..., just trying to help here but you are only buying what you have allready power wiseJust been offered a 4.0 out of a chimp with 56k on the clock for £750..... good start i hope
Edited by 3024E on Sunday 30th January 21:32
yellowgriff said:
dbv8 (DEREK)
Where did you have all your nos installed or did you do it yourself; Had my corvette done at place were i bought the car.. Cheers ,
I did it all mmyself. I like to experiment with different set ups but all the advice you need is given on the 'WON' forum.Where did you have all your nos installed or did you do it yourself; Had my corvette done at place were i bought the car.. Cheers ,
There are some do's and dont's but its not rocket science.
tks for the advise.looking at an extra 50hp shot.and i dont plan to use it as a maniac so hopefully my baby will still be as reliable as it is now.
dbv8 said:
I did it all mmyself. I like to experiment with different set ups but all the advice you need is given on the 'WON' forum.
There are some do's and dont's but its not rocket science.
There are some do's and dont's but its not rocket science.
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