Student Photographer free photo's of ur car
Discussion
OK, here goes:
Framing - the way it's framed was presumably to get a dramatic angle down the side of the car. Unfortunately, on this sort of car I don't think there is a dramatic angle. Secondly, even if this were a 250GTO that angle is the wrong one.
Lighting - the car is dark anyway but the side of the car appears to be in shade as well so all you can see is the reflection of trees. The headlight being on only serves to blow out a large part of the picture
Positioning - the car appears to have been parked up against a hedge in an unsurfaced carpark. The ground is unattractive and fills 30% of the frame (see also 'Framing' above). Another 30% of the frame is taken up by trees which do nothing to enhance the picture and dilute the lines of the car (such as they are).
All of the above relate directly to the thought and effort that has gone into setting up the shot i.e. not a lot.
Maybe looking at this the other way round might help - what is that you like about that shot?
Framing - the way it's framed was presumably to get a dramatic angle down the side of the car. Unfortunately, on this sort of car I don't think there is a dramatic angle. Secondly, even if this were a 250GTO that angle is the wrong one.
Lighting - the car is dark anyway but the side of the car appears to be in shade as well so all you can see is the reflection of trees. The headlight being on only serves to blow out a large part of the picture
Positioning - the car appears to have been parked up against a hedge in an unsurfaced carpark. The ground is unattractive and fills 30% of the frame (see also 'Framing' above). Another 30% of the frame is taken up by trees which do nothing to enhance the picture and dilute the lines of the car (such as they are).
All of the above relate directly to the thought and effort that has gone into setting up the shot i.e. not a lot.
Maybe looking at this the other way round might help - what is that you like about that shot?
scar939 said:
Scott330ci - I know my English isn't great but i have difficulty with my English thank you. I use a Canon 50D and 400D with a sigma 50mm DGmacro and a Canon 80-200mm EF lens. Is this where i go wrong?
Obviously ...Im not sure, your shots look like your are using a P&S.
Crank that ISO down and invest in a tripod. Look at the lines in the car and not the complete thing.
Look at interesting items, badges, spoilers etc etc.
And get low.
I don't like this shot this is from another student on the same course doing a similar project to me. I dont like the relfections in the paint work of the trees and a car should be on tarmac not gravel! if a 4X4 or rally styled car e.g. evo.
Ok Guys i know my English isn't my good ok!
Ok i am ussing a tripod and using ISO100 with different shutter speeds and F-stops. The shots what i took I followed a rough guide on another forum which said not to crop and cut out the car obviously a bad forum im going out again with my brothers FTO and his girlfriends astra turbo so I will look for the lines down the car and get even lower than i did. Also less of the shooting at night?? or should i try for just before during and a small section after sunset?
Ok Guys i know my English isn't my good ok!
Ok i am ussing a tripod and using ISO100 with different shutter speeds and F-stops. The shots what i took I followed a rough guide on another forum which said not to crop and cut out the car obviously a bad forum im going out again with my brothers FTO and his girlfriends astra turbo so I will look for the lines down the car and get even lower than i did. Also less of the shooting at night?? or should i try for just before during and a small section after sunset?
My best ever car shots were of an old unwashed purple Mondeo estate, with a cheap old 2MP Kodak P&S in auto mode.
...With a stunning Glen Nevis backdrop.
IMO the first thing you should do is find a location that would make a good picture in itself - and then add a car and get creative.
...With a stunning Glen Nevis backdrop.
IMO the first thing you should do is find a location that would make a good picture in itself - and then add a car and get creative.
scar939 said:
Ok i am ussing a tripod and using ISO100 with different shutter speeds and F-stops. The shots what i took I followed a rough guide on another forum which said not to crop and cut out the car obviously a bad forum im going out again with my brothers FTO and his girlfriends astra turbo so I will look for the lines down the car and get even lower than i did. Also less of the shooting at night?? or should i try for just before during and a small section after sunset?
If the Canon is anything like my Nikon there should be built in scene settings for dusk and dawn. I would change the ISO 100 when shooting at night or in the dark 
Good luck
Instead of asking other people what they think, and then trying to shoot to fit that, try thinking about what YOU like and then trying to shoot that. Take inspiration from magazines etc, its all valid material. At the risk of contradicting myself slightly I think you should just practice shooting a nice simple technically correct shot, before moving onto more creative stuff....
John - it appears you may be very short of time, and in need of ideas etc. Why not post up 5 to 10 images you've seen on the net which you'd like to replicate, and people here can give tips etc on how they believe the photo may have been shot and how you may go about achieving the same look?
Andy M said:
John - it appears you may be very short of time, and in need of ideas etc. Why not post up 5 to 10 images you've seen on the net which you'd like to replicate, and people here can give tips etc on how they believe the photo may have been shot and how you may go about achieving the same look?
Good idea, I'll get involved.
scar939 said:
MCflurry - What is the K temp of dust or dawn because i can manually set the white balance.
What I do is take a piece of white cardboard out with me. Then take a photo of that. Then in the camera go to 'Custom WB' and then select the photo of the white card to use as the source for the WB setting.You can then test this by shooting another photo of the white card and it should come out looking white, then you know the WB will be faithful.
Also, if you shoot in RAW (rather than jpeg) you can adjust the WB in post processing on the PC when you edit the images.
WB can be a tricky thing to get right, particularly when there's more than one light source. (e.g. ambient light plus flash) That's why I often 'cheat' by shooting RAW and fixing WB later.
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