S1 rebuild....not one for the purist
Discussion
greymrj said:
The linkage looks like it would be fairly easy to extend but I presume the remote couldnt readily be chassis/body mounted instead? Mounted properly the torque reaction angular displacement of the engine is quite limited. Common these days to mount the remote to the body but modern linkages are often quite long.
A majority of cars these days are Front wheel drive so the gear linkage is a remote box with a pair of push/pull cables. I looked at a polo/audi a3 remote as it has the same reverse position as the t9, but the cables are not flexible enough to bend back to the selector position and the mount was massive, size 12 shoebox size! so no way to get it in. (and i had to put it back in my partners car before she came back from her holiday) 
greymrj said:
That all makes sense to me. I have also used Unbrako and Loctite. I did have one inner CV come loose in 2015..thank goodness just as I came through the gate at the 2015 Burghley meet!
I am liking, and finding very interesting, the engineering approach!
(I have had a fair bit of stick in the past
for questioning whether some of the mods made or suggested, especially to matters where stress and safety have been involved, have not been thought through)
Not seeking to blow my own trumpet but this is one of the machines I designed, it processes rollers 7mtrs long, 800mm dia and 3 tonnes + rotating at 1200 rpm. You don't want that coming out.I am liking, and finding very interesting, the engineering approach!
(I have had a fair bit of stick in the past
for questioning whether some of the mods made or suggested, especially to matters where stress and safety have been involved, have not been thought through)
Alan Whitaker said:
Just been looking at the RX8 box, the RX motor is a high reving engine but with low torque, how will the gearbox cope with the extra torque from the v6.
Alan
Depends on whether your looking at rotor speed or output shaft speed, which is 1/3 of the rotor speed and 3 times the torque. the peak torque is 220 Nm at 5000 rpm, way higher than the V6 with 168 at 2500. This gearbox is used on the 4 ltr ford ranger in the US and a number of other vehicles including the Lexus IS 200 with 195 Nm, and I know its used in a fair number of racing sierras.Alan
Edited by Alan 1209 on Sunday 8th January 17:00
greymrj said:
Agreed with Alan above, no problem in blowing your own trumpet if you really know the music! But call that a machine 
, a mere bagatelle! Mind you it is a hell of a long time since I worked for the English Electric on power station design! 
A bloody good apprenticeship with them though in those days.
Yes, but without that machine you wouldn't have vinyl flooring for your bathroom, and without its little brother you wouldn't have plastic £5 notes, both so much more important than electricity, and to top it of nor would you have snickers wrappers......., a mere bagatelle! Mind you it is a hell of a long time since I worked for the English Electric on power station design! A bloody good apprenticeship with them though in those days.Alan Whitaker said:
Back to the TVR boy and girls. Have you had to cut the chassis to fit the gearbox. Nice to see someone else with proper tools (mill), You don't have a lot of room where the body fits down on the bottom rails, pictures please.
Alan
Just a slight mod to the 2 uprights, main rails are intact. Alan
replaced with
the new uprights are 50 x 25 x 2.5 RHS.
this increases the available space by 26mm, I have also moved the engine forward 10mm. but given that the new g'box is heavier the impact on front/rear balance is insignificant ( far less than the contents of the fuel tank)
magpies said:
Yes, but without that machine you wouldn't have vinyl flooring for your bathroom, and without its little brother you wouldn't have plastic £5 notes, both so much more important than electricity, and to top it of nor would you have snickers wrappers.......
but without electricity you wouldn't have your machine.....
Whats wrong with Steambut without electricity you wouldn't have your machine.....
magpies said:
if I remember well you still have the drive shaft and offtakes running the length of your workshop 
That Hercules Mch uses a flat belt drive and a dc motor. I did my apprenticeship in a factory with line shafts and overhead belts, and we built piston ring grinders! but the world has changed so lets not get too pipes and slippers over this. My welding isn't pretty but its full depth and we'd all be buggered without electricity. But lets face it Petrol is the king of fuels and internal combustion the best way of using it, and I will brook no dissent on this.
On the other hand I am almost entirely responsible for introducing a blanket 20mph limit in my part of London.
Other than the stage 3 engine and emerald ecu with closed loop control from a wideband lamda, not a lot. this is about building something really good and reliable but with that wonderful TVR individuality. Most of my driving is now done between London and the Chateauneuf du Pape. So spare wheel has moved under the bonnet ( more wine space) and I've added electric power steering, which goes neutral at around 15mph and cruise control for the odd bit of motorway (the french have gone camera mad), oh yeah a remote oil filter for easier changing along with a cooler. All the rest is bog standard S1, other than rear discs and adjustable shocks all round. Then there's the polymax bushes and the ally fuel tank. So pretty much as it came out of the factory.
Except for the paint job.
As I said at the top of this.
Not for the purist.
Except for the paint job.
As I said at the top of this.
Not for the purist.
Alan Whitaker said:
What power steering did you go for.
Alan
Its a Clio unit, with a clever little additional processor ( courtesy of a rocket scientist friend) that changes the assistance rate relative to the wheel speed. The standard unit goes neutral at around 50, but I really only need it to get in and out of my garage.Alan
I think they're all much the same, the MGTF and Cleo use the same controller, the canbus is for fault diagnostics only. The Cleo unit has 3 levels of assist derived from speed and a variable within each band derived from slew on the steering wheel, If you leave the speed sensor open you can use this input with a pair of resistors to limit the power, this seems to be how most of the little black boxes work although the output is a pulse train, the buffered input on the controller will effectively convert this to a voltage. If you lift the speed input to 12v the assist goes neutral. The variation from model to model seem to come from the speed sensor pickup, the Cleo is taken from the ABS ring with 26 ppr, the MG F seems to be around 42 so the Cleo drops out at 50 and the MG at 30.
Edited by Alan 1209 on Monday 9th January 08:47
Edited by Alan 1209 on Monday 9th January 14:51
Alan Whitaker]lan 1209 said:
the canbus is for fault diagnostics only.
No it's not, its used to send signals via nodes to each ecu and body control unit, it only works in diagnostic mode through the OBD11 protacols, that's why the wires are so small from the indicators and wipers they only send codes to the nodes. they also don't need the same number of wires to do the same job as none can bus systems
Alan
Well the one I have from a MK2 Clio (2001-5) does not use canbus, its pretty much stand alone, I have had it in use on the car. Maybe the later ones are fully canbus, but this one takes its inputs direct from the VR sensor on one front wheel ABS and a pair of opposed resistors on the steering wheel ( which I don't use) Its a Mitsubishi Electrics unit. I can send you the circuit diag if you want to have a look.No it's not, its used to send signals via nodes to each ecu and body control unit, it only works in diagnostic mode through the OBD11 protacols, that's why the wires are so small from the indicators and wipers they only send codes to the nodes. they also don't need the same number of wires to do the same job as none can bus systems
Alan
Its also used in a Honda Civic and Vauxhall Corsa. Being non canbus makes it a lot easier to use.
phillpot said:
You guys have lost me but I do know this kind of thing is available for the commonly used Corsa power steering column... Control box
The great advantage of the EPAS is that you can easily decrease the assist in proportion to speed increase. If you use the little box that goes and you just have a single rate of assist unless you tweak the knob as your driving. I have a modified bike 18t sprocket mounted on the propshaft nose, and a standard clio sensor picking up from it. this replicates the standard input but multiplies it by (18 * 3.36(diff ratio))/26or 2.33:1 so Clio drop out was around 50mph, its now 21.5. ( depends on wheel size but its near enough). Then I have a nifty little Arduino based gizmo to vary that.
Simples
DamianS3 said:
Do you think you will crack 200Bhp with the stage 3 engine.?
Why did you change the gearbox + diff and not just the diff.? Great work btw just seems like a lot without either 6 speed or some other reason.?
Keep the updates coming but in the scheme of things yours is pretty standard
What you doing for door mirrors.?
Cheers
Damian S3 Duratec
Hi Damian,Why did you change the gearbox + diff and not just the diff.? Great work btw just seems like a lot without either 6 speed or some other reason.?
Keep the updates coming but in the scheme of things yours is pretty standard
What you doing for door mirrors.?
Cheers
Damian S3 Duratec
Expecting 220, but its the torque increase that's the issue, the T9 was barely up to the 2.8 and had a tendency to twist and burst. There's no point in a 6 speed on this engine as it has a wide powerband, you need 6 or more for a peaky engine to keep you in the power band. The RX8 box has been used up to 400BHP on turbo engines, so i have given myself the turbo option for the future.
I'm not planning to go racing so the diff change was to give me more legs for motorway cruising and its a limited slip diff so better all round. What do you need mirrors for, just overtake everything.
No Prob, nothing to add for a few days. Body away being painted, First coat of POR15 on the chassis. 
.
Another coat of this then a couple of layers of black to return it to the original colour.
In the meantime I have to fit a tow bar to the Volvo. And maybe i'll do a bit of work work as well.
.Another coat of this then a couple of layers of black to return it to the original colour.
In the meantime I have to fit a tow bar to the Volvo. And maybe i'll do a bit of work work as well.
|http://thumbsnap.com/jzUcPRtA[/url]
https://www.dropbox.com/s/59njt0gsxic8r87/Chassis....
This is where I'm going with the bonnet hinge, the hinges are early ford Ka boot hinges and have some assistance from gas springs, I've left these out video of the for reasons of sanity. This gives an 80deg opening angle and lifts the bonnet by some 40mm at around 60deg opening.
This is where I'm going with the bonnet hinge, the hinges are early ford Ka boot hinges and have some assistance from gas springs, I've left these out video of the for reasons of sanity. This gives an 80deg opening angle and lifts the bonnet by some 40mm at around 60deg opening.
greymrj said:
The design principles look good Alan, although given the weight and twisting moment of that bonnet it is going to need to be beefier than the Kia boot one surely? Wont the legs deflect and the pressed joints on the Kia hinges then fail?
Love the drawings you clever bugger, when I did my kinematics it all had to be done on drawing boards and laborious mock ups.
Thanks both, I use Solidworks as a design package. I was always a sLove the drawings you clever bugger, when I did my kinematics it all had to be done on drawing boards and laborious mock ups.
t draughtsman, CAD set me free...Alan, Did you say you designed power stations? an m12 bolt has a Pnom shear of 13.8Kn, or for the non engineers 1407 kilogram force, 1.4 tonnes. so 2 of them should just about hold your bonnet on
The Ka hinges have 4 10mm hinge pins and a restricted sideways movement when shut, the legs are 4mm thick, and the base 3.2, I've hung my 81.5 kilo carcass off an open hinge without causing it any trouble other than a bit of flex, nothing better than a bit of empiric data! The gas spring goes slightly over centre to apply a small closing force. Side to side is covered by slots in the base plate, the up/down by slots in the hinge plate and fwd/reverse by slots in the bonnet rib. And i don't plan to have the bonnet open all that often. If needed I'll put 2 stays in. This is supposed to be a light weight sports car after all.
Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff