S1 2.8 Exhaust manifolds
Discussion
Glenrobbo, I've copied and pasted the item so that you can see everything. I think it cost about £15 for the postage. I bought this about 5 months ago, but one sold on 7th August http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Krummer-Ford-Taunus-Capr... .
Ford Capri/Granada/Taunus V6 Auspuffkrümmer links 73TF 9431 CA, TOP!
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ford-oldschoolparts (1906 Feedback score: 1906)
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Item condition:
Used
Quantity:
0 available / 3 sold
Price:
EUR 29.95
Approximately £23.91
Postage:
May not post to United Kingdom - Read item description or contact seller for postage options. | See details
Item location:
Forchheim, Germany
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Germany
Ford Capri/Granada/Taunus V6 Auspuffkrümmer links 73TF 9431 CA, TOP!
Seller information
ford-oldschoolparts (1906 Feedback score: 1906)
99.7% Positive Feedback
Follow this seller
See other items
Visit Shop:
ford-oldschoolparts
Registered as a business seller
Item information
Item condition:
Used
Quantity:
0 available / 3 sold
Price:
EUR 29.95
Approximately £23.91
Postage:
May not post to United Kingdom - Read item description or contact seller for postage options. | See details
Item location:
Forchheim, Germany
Posts to:
Germany
Edited by YeS1tis on Monday 25th August 13:29
Many thanks for the info, seems a very reasonable price. I did find one about 2 years ago on eBay in Germany, but they were asking about £130 or so, and delivery was a problem, so I didn't persue it further.
Nice to know that they are out there though.
How did you manage to grind your flanges to suit your S1?
Nice to know that they are out there though.
How did you manage to grind your flanges to suit your S1?
glenrobbo said:
I'm only an expert on the longer RH one.
The part no.73TF-9431-CA is correct, it is sourced from the Cortina/ Taunus 2.3 V6 Cologne LEFT hand side and is rarer than hen's teeth in piles of rocking horse poo.
TVR modified the manifold by grinding the flange faces to a taper like this to get clearance from the chassis rail....
I managed to grind mine using this method.......
[ See pic below, view looking down, problem with first illustration ]
....with the angle grinder clamped in a vice, and carefully grinding down to the tapered marks I had made with a yellow paint pen.
Perhaps you could reface your eroded flange faces this way if they're not too bad. But be careful!
These cast manifolds are weldable by someone who knows what they are doing, by pre- heating & using special rods for cast iron.
I'm in the process of replacing my RH exhaust manifold. Could you tell me at which angle the manifold flange face was tapered? The part no.73TF-9431-CA is correct, it is sourced from the Cortina/ Taunus 2.3 V6 Cologne LEFT hand side and is rarer than hen's teeth in piles of rocking horse poo.
TVR modified the manifold by grinding the flange faces to a taper like this to get clearance from the chassis rail....
I managed to grind mine using this method.......
[ See pic below, view looking down, problem with first illustration ]
....with the angle grinder clamped in a vice, and carefully grinding down to the tapered marks I had made with a yellow paint pen.
Perhaps you could reface your eroded flange faces this way if they're not too bad. But be careful!
These cast manifolds are weldable by someone who knows what they are doing, by pre- heating & using special rods for cast iron.
Edited by glenrobbo on Tuesday 12th August 10:57
My old/broken manifold did not have the tapered flange face, but that's maybe why it broke off. I found a new manifold on motomobil.com and should grind the flange face, or is there another way to ensure the clearance between the manifold and the chassis rail?
Hi Bruno,
I'm surprised that your original manifold was not tapered, was it clearing the chassis?
IF YOUR REPLACEMENT MANIFOLD FITS WITHOUT FOULING THE CHASSIS, THEN YOU HAVE NO PROBLEM, and the rest of my advice is not needed.
Every TVR is different
If it fouls, then have a look at my photos above.
The angle is approx 15 degrees, not critical, I just just did it "by eye" ( compare the modified and unmodified manifolds in my photos above ), grinding it a bit at a time. Use a horizontal circular motion so that the disc wears evenly, until there is enough clearance between the forward end and the chassis rail.
You will need to grind the head mating flange at the front exhaust port a bit more then the rear flange, but the surface must be flat across the two faces. Test on a flat surface to make sure it doesn't "rock"
Just keep the manifold flat on the grinding disc and grind a bit at a time. You will get a "feel" for it. The hardest thing is keeping it flat when introducing the manifold to the spinning disc without putting an angled "step" on just one part of it.
Work safely. Wear stout long sleeved gauntlets and goggles and be careful!
It gets very HOT by the way!
I accept no responsibility for injury or damage.
Good luck.
I'm surprised that your original manifold was not tapered, was it clearing the chassis?
IF YOUR REPLACEMENT MANIFOLD FITS WITHOUT FOULING THE CHASSIS, THEN YOU HAVE NO PROBLEM, and the rest of my advice is not needed.
Every TVR is different
If it fouls, then have a look at my photos above.
The angle is approx 15 degrees, not critical, I just just did it "by eye" ( compare the modified and unmodified manifolds in my photos above ), grinding it a bit at a time. Use a horizontal circular motion so that the disc wears evenly, until there is enough clearance between the forward end and the chassis rail.
You will need to grind the head mating flange at the front exhaust port a bit more then the rear flange, but the surface must be flat across the two faces. Test on a flat surface to make sure it doesn't "rock"
Just keep the manifold flat on the grinding disc and grind a bit at a time. You will get a "feel" for it. The hardest thing is keeping it flat when introducing the manifold to the spinning disc without putting an angled "step" on just one part of it.
Work safely. Wear stout long sleeved gauntlets and goggles and be careful!
It gets very HOT by the way!
I accept no responsibility for injury or damage.
Good luck.
Edited by glenrobbo on Monday 16th February 17:30
I'm not sure if it was the original manifold. maybe one of the previous owners already replaced it once in the past. I did see some marks on the chassis, so, I suppose, there was not enough clearance between the chassis and the manifold. and that is maybe the reason why it broke.
I did a dry fit and I only have 2 or 3 mm clearance, which is not enough according to me. correct me if I'm wrong.
I will try your method. thanks for the advice
I did a dry fit and I only have 2 or 3 mm clearance, which is not enough according to me. correct me if I'm wrong.
I will try your method. thanks for the advice
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