S1 rebuild....not one for the purist
Discussion
mk1fan said:
Those hinges look very similar to the Escort Cabrio ones used one the Tamora - and later Chims or Griefs I think. I happen to have a spare so will have a looky looky.
they have been slightly modified, but ford are good at multi use so may well be. They are chunkier the bonnet hinges on my Volvo, and that aint no lightweight.
Brithunter said:
Perhaps take a look a the bonnet hinges from a Rover 75 they are similar design to your drop box have strut assist and hold up the fairly large steel bonnet of the 75 without a problem .............................................. just a suggestion of course.
Of course a set would be easy to obtain froma breakrs too.
Hi,Rover 75 is a straightforward pivot hinge, so no improvement over the TVR hinge. The Ka unit is kinematic and has gas spring assist, I just left them out of the 3D model.Of course a set would be easy to obtain froma breakrs too.
Wow, just 33kgs, so why can't I pick it up (cause I'm a bit of a wimp i guess)
Thanks so much for that, now i can calculate my spring force.
Starting on the hinge brkts now.
the basic parts.
The frame started, close observers will notice the improvement in my welding.
A small selection of my clamps.....
Nearly there, I may cut out the centre of the cross bar after everything is welded in place.
Thanks so much for that, now i can calculate my spring force.
Starting on the hinge brkts now.
the basic parts.
The frame started, close observers will notice the improvement in my welding.
A small selection of my clamps.....
Nearly there, I may cut out the centre of the cross bar after everything is welded in place.
magpies said:
It is also the windage forces when open in a breeze or side of the road. Two gas struts will help but I'd also try to incorporate some mid point opening stop.
I wasnt considering using the gas struts as the props, I've worked with them on many projects, if they have enough force to lift and hold the bonnet then they would put significant force on it when shut. Solid props all the way for me. The gas springs just ensure that the lift is balanced when opening from one side.I had a bit of a rethink on the layout and this is how it is now.
The full crossbar is an ideal place for the oil cooler.
Alan Whitaker said:
A 3.2 Busso, they make good coffee tables, I did look at one of these but they wanted so much for it, and bits missing. I had a quick change of thinking
Yup,seems to be cheaper to buy the whole car. My old 166 went like a scalded rat, and it was no lightweight, and the noise that engine makes is worth it all.
Alan Whitaker said:
Time to bolt all the bits back
should be getting the suspension parts back from powder coating this week, then everything is in place for the final assembly. Just need to get a windscreen (un tinted), build the wiring loom, setup the ecu, re-trim the interior and start it. And when thats all done its off to the rolling road. So end of next week then.
Wiring diag is spread across 5 sheets as discrete circuits, there is also a loom termination diagram, an excell spread sheet of fuses, relays and wire colour/capacity.
The dash loom is the old TVR one, as nothing has changed. The rest is done in thinwall multicore, much quicker and neater than all that wrapping. All the power circuits are routed through relays with 1 fuse per cicuit so that the column switches are switching very low current. all the lighting is changing to LED so power handling is greatly reduced, more photons less infrared and fewer horsepowers absorbed through the alternator, should give me another 0.2 mph.
And thats beer in the glass, whiskey is just not my thing.
The dash loom is the old TVR one, as nothing has changed. The rest is done in thinwall multicore, much quicker and neater than all that wrapping. All the power circuits are routed through relays with 1 fuse per cicuit so that the column switches are switching very low current. all the lighting is changing to LED so power handling is greatly reduced, more photons less infrared and fewer horsepowers absorbed through the alternator, should give me another 0.2 mph.
And thats beer in the glass, whiskey is just not my thing.
That very small beer was just the remains of 660ml of Staropramen.
the rest was already in me.
This is the kind of thing I'm working with
Just wiring numbers and colours to be added.
A majority of the circuitry is borrowed from a 92 granada, the rest is all mine. (PS. I used to do this sort of thing for a living)
the rest was already in me.This is the kind of thing I'm working with
Just wiring numbers and colours to be added.
A majority of the circuitry is borrowed from a 92 granada, the rest is all mine. (PS. I used to do this sort of thing for a living)
DamianS3 said:
Looking good... are you using EDIS6 spark control or leaving it all to the ECU.. Also I can't see the ISCV are you planning to let the ECU do idle speed via timing etc..?
Quality job.. I assume it will all be covered in heat shrink once made.?
Damian S3 Duratec
The ISCV is to the right of the fuel pump, marked idle valve. The ECU, an Emerald K6, supports direct drive of the coil pack in wasted spark mode so no EDIS. the engine loom is made of high temp cable, so i will not be sheathing it in heatshrink.Quality job.. I assume it will all be covered in heat shrink once made.?
Damian S3 Duratec
But I will be sheathing other parts of the loom.
Blue 30 said:
Hi Alan..
If you haven't used Emerald before, do thoroughly read & digest the manual info. And if you have any problems don't be afraid to ask Dave Walker & his team. They have always been very helpful to me in the past.
If you are using the Ford type ISCV, make sure the software setting for such is at least 100hz. Its all in the manual, but I have known Emerald not to have pre set this, and its a right pain to find out why you've got no idle !
TerryB
Thanks for the info,If you haven't used Emerald before, do thoroughly read & digest the manual info. And if you have any problems don't be afraid to ask Dave Walker & his team. They have always been very helpful to me in the past.
If you are using the Ford type ISCV, make sure the software setting for such is at least 100hz. Its all in the manual, but I have known Emerald not to have pre set this, and its a right pain to find out why you've got no idle !
TerryB
I will be taking it to Emerald to be set up on their rolling road. I am using the standard 2 wire ISCV, so I'll check the frequency.
Edited by Alan 1209 on Thursday 2nd February 00:45
Been a while, B***red back and to much work has kept me away for a while, but trailing arms and wishbones came back from powder coating yesterday AM so i've been busy again. Gearbox is in on its new mounts. :-
This is the top stabiliser and remote gear change, the stabiliser is a Merc drop link.
not the best picture, but this is one of the 2 low mounts.
and this is the trigger wheel for the speedo, cruise control and power steering pickup, it's a shrink fit on the shaft.
This is the top stabiliser and remote gear change, the stabiliser is a Merc drop link.
not the best picture, but this is one of the 2 low mounts.
and this is the trigger wheel for the speedo, cruise control and power steering pickup, it's a shrink fit on the shaft.
Edited by Alan 1209 on Sunday 12th February 19:47
|http://thumbsnap.com/LdPbwv7i[/url]Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff