Top front ball joint
Discussion
Because its not correct im sure its a 765 you need as its mountings are slightly smaller therefor giving you more wiggle room.Been out and checked the angle of the spiggot to the mounting and its identical
http://www.tvrsseries.com/765768.JPG
http://www.tvrsseries.com/765768.JPG
This was a really useful thread for me. I have just removed the top ball joint on the near side on my S3c. This involved the use of a large forked splitter, once the rubber on the ball joint had been cut away, and the 19mm nut under the joint had been removed. At first it would not budge, but finally did after the application of considerable heat from a blow-torch to expand the female part, and some blows from a large club hammer. I made some small heat shields for the brake hoses from some thin aluminium which I think worked quite well.
My ball joint came from QH also.
The joint was quite worn, but I had already decided to replace top and bottom joints eahc side, which I think may be original. The car has done 57 000 miles
My ball joint came from QH also.
The joint was quite worn, but I had already decided to replace top and bottom joints eahc side, which I think may be original. The car has done 57 000 miles
The top ball joint I do by putting the whole adapter in a vice and hitting the bottom of the stud hard with a lump hammer and large drift. I put the retaining nut partway on upside down to help locate the drift and protect the exposed end of the thread - not that it matters particularly since the old joint is inevitably thrown away, I just don't like breaking things to take them apart.
Just a tip if anyone is using the Screw type of Balljoint seperators, get plenty of pressure on it, apply heat to and give the female part of the assembly a sharp blow with a hammer.I have used this method on many occasions on industrial applications, sometimes with up to 90 tons of hydraulic pressure on the ram, it still needed a whack with a sledge hammer to shock it free.
Ps Dont hit the hub with a sledgehammer,a 2LB hammer should suffice and if it doesn't work after 1 to 3 blows then its not going to so try another method.
Ps Dont hit the hub with a sledgehammer,a 2LB hammer should suffice and if it doesn't work after 1 to 3 blows then its not going to so try another method.
and wherever possible dont hit the cast iron hub assembly direct with a hammer anyway, always use a brass "drift" or piece of brass bar between the hammer and the hub.
I found it really useful to keep a brick close by too, so when frustration kicks in (it will...) you can throw the brick at something instead of taking it out on the hub
I found it really useful to keep a brick close by too, so when frustration kicks in (it will...) you can throw the brick at something instead of taking it out on the hub
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