Terry's tale. (S3 resto ++)
Discussion
And there's more...
For those who have/are following the two other guys doing the AJ30 conversion (plus mine). You will have noted that they have fitted the alternator on the drivers side. By doing such, this leaves room to create a bespoke n/side engine mount close to the front of the engine on the n/side, as that's where there are conveniently placed threaded holes in the block !
As I have fitted the Pas pump on the o/side, the alternator has to go on the n/side. Both very tight in space terms as they intrude into the chassis spaces. Plus my n/side engine mount is much further back, using the original (swine to get at) chassis plate.
Pas pump.
Alternator.
The drive belt arrangement on the jag is a complex one, including a spring loaded tensioner/idle wheel. The other guys have removed that, where the alternator now does the tensioning (old skool style). I had to delete my jag tensioner/idle wheel too, but I can't get enough 'swing' on the alternator. Therefore I introduced my own manual sliding idler wheel. That took a whole load of time to design/create, and make sure all the pulleys aligned correctly. Only time will tell once its in service.
TerryB.
For those who have/are following the two other guys doing the AJ30 conversion (plus mine). You will have noted that they have fitted the alternator on the drivers side. By doing such, this leaves room to create a bespoke n/side engine mount close to the front of the engine on the n/side, as that's where there are conveniently placed threaded holes in the block !
As I have fitted the Pas pump on the o/side, the alternator has to go on the n/side. Both very tight in space terms as they intrude into the chassis spaces. Plus my n/side engine mount is much further back, using the original (swine to get at) chassis plate.
Pas pump.
Alternator.
The drive belt arrangement on the jag is a complex one, including a spring loaded tensioner/idle wheel. The other guys have removed that, where the alternator now does the tensioning (old skool style). I had to delete my jag tensioner/idle wheel too, but I can't get enough 'swing' on the alternator. Therefore I introduced my own manual sliding idler wheel. That took a whole load of time to design/create, and make sure all the pulleys aligned correctly. Only time will tell once its in service.
TerryB.
The Pas pump & alternator photos above are from underneath, so you'll have to pretend you're under the car !
Here is a snap of the current state from up above. Its getting there, some things (wiring, pipes, hoses etc) have been deliberately left loose, so that I can trial test, and rectify/tidy up as required.... When I eventually get to that stage.
Currently as I am waiting on the front shocks return from AVO, there's not much I can do at the front end, plus the car is on axle stands.
Oh, from the photo above you might be able to ID the new sitting of the Arb, a bit of work to do on the extended drop links still to do.
So, as I'm at a loose end... Lol.
Remembering that my project is not only a drive train conversion, but it is a general restoration too (as it was a crap car example that I bought, albeit knowingly).
I might as well start another job.
Here is the state of play with my roof panel 'arse' introduction.
The box being left open in the cockpit, where the panels will slide into.
And I think you're just about up to date...
TerryB
Here is a snap of the current state from up above. Its getting there, some things (wiring, pipes, hoses etc) have been deliberately left loose, so that I can trial test, and rectify/tidy up as required.... When I eventually get to that stage.
Currently as I am waiting on the front shocks return from AVO, there's not much I can do at the front end, plus the car is on axle stands.
Oh, from the photo above you might be able to ID the new sitting of the Arb, a bit of work to do on the extended drop links still to do.
So, as I'm at a loose end... Lol.
Remembering that my project is not only a drive train conversion, but it is a general restoration too (as it was a crap car example that I bought, albeit knowingly).
I might as well start another job.
Here is the state of play with my roof panel 'arse' introduction.
The box being left open in the cockpit, where the panels will slide into.
And I think you're just about up to date...
TerryB
Pas steering rack... If you don't mind I'll hold back on that info. As I wouldn't want anyone to buy or start any work based on my unfinished/untested/life threatening conversion. I promise I'll reveal all as soon as the system is trial tested.
Alternator weather shield... Yes, its under consideration.
Thanks both for your interest.
If you're passing by South Staffs, you're more than welcome to drop in.
TerryB.
Alternator weather shield... Yes, its under consideration.
Thanks both for your interest.
If you're passing by South Staffs, you're more than welcome to drop in.
TerryB.
Today's excitement was to carry on with the roof panel storage box. On my car there was an added difficulty in so much as the rear bulkhead had a couple of huge speakers cut into it. So I screwed & glued a piece of 4mm marine ply boot side. Now the box hole has been cut through both the ply and the grp, I simply cut two speaker shaped blanks to infill the holes
Both sides will be re carpeted of course.
I will have some boot grey carpet surplus, but don't ask just yet.
As that is all clamped up & drying, I thought I might as well have a look at the roof panels.
As I have a new material roof waiting to fit, & gathering dust.
X4 tangs on one panel are corroded through. X1 on the other. There are plenty of threads on the forum covering those, so I won't bother documenting it here..
Here's an example.
Both sides will be re carpeted of course.
I will have some boot grey carpet surplus, but don't ask just yet.
As that is all clamped up & drying, I thought I might as well have a look at the roof panels.
As I have a new material roof waiting to fit, & gathering dust.
X4 tangs on one panel are corroded through. X1 on the other. There are plenty of threads on the forum covering those, so I won't bother documenting it here..
Here's an example.
I've carried on working on with the targa roof panel box.
Rear bulkhead speaker holes dealt with, new carpet fitted with a flap when the box is empty.
New roof over-centre struts trial fitted, plus I have fitted new alloy tangs into the panels, holes cleaned then the new tangs glued in using body panel gunk. Its messy to work with (no different than working with strand glass). It goes off over night, and is slightly flexible, allowing any minor misalignment to be tolerated.
Note... I have deliberately left the old targa outer material flapping loose, so that when I (eventually) get around to doing the new hood and roof coverings, I will know where to cut & seam etc.
![](https://thumbsnap.com/sc/zW3ejRmg.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="https://thumbsnap.com/1uacrKXt" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]https://thumbsnap.com/sc/1uacrKXt.jpg)
Rear bulkhead speaker holes dealt with, new carpet fitted with a flap when the box is empty.
New roof over-centre struts trial fitted, plus I have fitted new alloy tangs into the panels, holes cleaned then the new tangs glued in using body panel gunk. Its messy to work with (no different than working with strand glass). It goes off over night, and is slightly flexible, allowing any minor misalignment to be tolerated.
Note... I have deliberately left the old targa outer material flapping loose, so that when I (eventually) get around to doing the new hood and roof coverings, I will know where to cut & seam etc.
Edited by Blue 30 on Monday 5th August 22:31
Edited by Blue 30 on Monday 5th August 22:34
Oh, I forgot to mention that I have a fully operational braking system now.
I'm fibbing at little, as the handbrake lever is still in the boot somewhere !
But I'm happy that there are no fluid leaks.
One of the many 1/2 jobs done, that have to interlink with other 1/2 jobs is the resiting of the battery. The main charging/starting cables are in the boot now, as is a dedicated feed straight from the battery to the main dash loom 'live' which supplys the unswitched, the ignition switched, and the lighting circuits. I have fitted an inline power fuse, plus a kill switch in the boot on that supply line. I'll have to buy a battery soon so that I can get all wires cut and suitable battery clamps fitted etc. Which of course means, I'm getting dangerously close to cranking the engine... But I must remember to put engine oil in first !!!
I'm fibbing at little, as the handbrake lever is still in the boot somewhere !
But I'm happy that there are no fluid leaks.
One of the many 1/2 jobs done, that have to interlink with other 1/2 jobs is the resiting of the battery. The main charging/starting cables are in the boot now, as is a dedicated feed straight from the battery to the main dash loom 'live' which supplys the unswitched, the ignition switched, and the lighting circuits. I have fitted an inline power fuse, plus a kill switch in the boot on that supply line. I'll have to buy a battery soon so that I can get all wires cut and suitable battery clamps fitted etc. Which of course means, I'm getting dangerously close to cranking the engine... But I must remember to put engine oil in first !!!
One electrical query I do have, is....
My car is a 1990 S3, when I bought it, I was given one key as the 'fits all' key.
No issue with that, it locks the doors, it turns the ignition on and off.
However once I removed the door cards, each door contained a central locking solenoid. Both of these are the 2-wire version. So as there is no master 5-wire, it couldn't be operated from any key locking operation. Mmmm !
So (me thinks to myself) there must be a central locking module... Nothing found so far (4+ Years of ownership). Although I haven't done any serious detective work dedication in this persuance, following wiring etc.
My current assumption is, is that although solenoids & wiring exists, there was no working central locking.... I could be wrong.
So my question is... Did S3 cars have central locking ?
If so, was it originally key or fob operated ?
My car will have fob operated central locking, as I have bought a little black box that enables such.
T.
UPDATE... I've done a bit of searching around this forum, and may have the answer.
IE. Some cars didn't have central locking, and some did !
On some that didn't, they still might have the door actuators.
On cars that did have central locking, most had the CL incorporated within the fitted alarm system.
My car exhibits evidence of having a previously fitted alarm system.
IE. Cut/taped up wires on the indicator circuit, and interior light door switches.
So I guess on my car it was the alarm system that did the CL.
All long since gone of course, so saves me the job of stripping it out.
As I say, I have a new CL black box to fit anyway. My actuators & door locking does work under testing. So all good...
T.
My car is a 1990 S3, when I bought it, I was given one key as the 'fits all' key.
No issue with that, it locks the doors, it turns the ignition on and off.
However once I removed the door cards, each door contained a central locking solenoid. Both of these are the 2-wire version. So as there is no master 5-wire, it couldn't be operated from any key locking operation. Mmmm !
So (me thinks to myself) there must be a central locking module... Nothing found so far (4+ Years of ownership). Although I haven't done any serious detective work dedication in this persuance, following wiring etc.
My current assumption is, is that although solenoids & wiring exists, there was no working central locking.... I could be wrong.
So my question is... Did S3 cars have central locking ?
If so, was it originally key or fob operated ?
My car will have fob operated central locking, as I have bought a little black box that enables such.
T.
UPDATE... I've done a bit of searching around this forum, and may have the answer.
IE. Some cars didn't have central locking, and some did !
On some that didn't, they still might have the door actuators.
On cars that did have central locking, most had the CL incorporated within the fitted alarm system.
My car exhibits evidence of having a previously fitted alarm system.
IE. Cut/taped up wires on the indicator circuit, and interior light door switches.
So I guess on my car it was the alarm system that did the CL.
All long since gone of course, so saves me the job of stripping it out.
As I say, I have a new CL black box to fit anyway. My actuators & door locking does work under testing. So all good...
T.
Edited by Blue 30 on Tuesday 6th August 12:06
Edited by Blue 30 on Tuesday 6th August 12:07
Edited by Blue 30 on Tuesday 6th August 12:09
A bit more progress. Sorry about jumping about with jobs.
As they say, variety is the spice of life !
I have said numerous times, my project isn't just the drivetrain conversion, but also to get the rest of the car reliable & usable, as it was a poor example that I knowingly bought.
Rear lights, general inspection/revival.
The bulb housings dont appear too bad generally, but the wiring loom connectors are brown & ugh, so those will be cut off and different ones fitted (waiting on their arrival). See photo.
The connecting tabs within the housing also look suspect, so I am making some short tails up with individual small size push connectors. Photos to follow.
The number plate light was a different story. As once I peeled back the carpet. The bulb had apparently been glued in situ, with maybe, or maybe not, any electrical contact with the brass tabs, which were just floating about.
After about 30seconds of fleebay searching I found what might be a substitute. Led no less. The Tvr hole had been hacked out, so the new light unit had to go back in slightly out of square so that it seals. Anyway, unless you're on the floor you can't see it.... Very Tvr
Oh, I did come across something very closely situated to the number plate light (inside the boot) that apparently 'we' don't talk about !!!
I'll just say this, it helps in accessing your tools, if your battery goes flat !
Old & new number plate light units, and fitted.
Now press 'pause'.... Again... As our summer hols are imminent.
T
As they say, variety is the spice of life !
I have said numerous times, my project isn't just the drivetrain conversion, but also to get the rest of the car reliable & usable, as it was a poor example that I knowingly bought.
Rear lights, general inspection/revival.
The bulb housings dont appear too bad generally, but the wiring loom connectors are brown & ugh, so those will be cut off and different ones fitted (waiting on their arrival). See photo.
The connecting tabs within the housing also look suspect, so I am making some short tails up with individual small size push connectors. Photos to follow.
The number plate light was a different story. As once I peeled back the carpet. The bulb had apparently been glued in situ, with maybe, or maybe not, any electrical contact with the brass tabs, which were just floating about.
After about 30seconds of fleebay searching I found what might be a substitute. Led no less. The Tvr hole had been hacked out, so the new light unit had to go back in slightly out of square so that it seals. Anyway, unless you're on the floor you can't see it.... Very Tvr
Oh, I did come across something very closely situated to the number plate light (inside the boot) that apparently 'we' don't talk about !!!
I'll just say this, it helps in accessing your tools, if your battery goes flat !
Old & new number plate light units, and fitted.
Now press 'pause'.... Again... As our summer hols are imminent.
T
Edited by Blue 30 on Sunday 25th August 15:29
Thanks both, but I prefer the short tail option ( no jokes please... oh, go on then).
Thanks for the link Mike, yes that's what I'm doing in ref to the tails and plugs.
I bought my No plate led lights as a pair, but opted for using the existing single hole option (weight saving, better aero), and I have a spare maybe to use on inside of the rollover hoop.
T.
Thanks for the link Mike, yes that's what I'm doing in ref to the tails and plugs.
I bought my No plate led lights as a pair, but opted for using the existing single hole option (weight saving, better aero), and I have a spare maybe to use on inside of the rollover hoop.
T.
Yep, that's virtually what I'm doing too.
I have all of the tools and consumables, just waiting on the 6-way plug & sockets.
For everyone else's info....
5 out of the 6 pins in the housing are 12V inputs, the outer one is the common Neg (earth) input. So its important to keep that one isolated from the others.
If any of others touch each other, you will just get funny lighting pattern(s).
So you might as well sleeve those from each other too.
I will also be insitu testing mine from the disconnected column stalk plug too.
That's before I couple it all back into the stalks and loom wiring.
Thanks for all input.
T.
I have all of the tools and consumables, just waiting on the 6-way plug & sockets.
For everyone else's info....
5 out of the 6 pins in the housing are 12V inputs, the outer one is the common Neg (earth) input. So its important to keep that one isolated from the others.
If any of others touch each other, you will just get funny lighting pattern(s).
So you might as well sleeve those from each other too.
I will also be insitu testing mine from the disconnected column stalk plug too.
That's before I couple it all back into the stalks and loom wiring.
Thanks for all input.
T.
I agree with the principle of, less joints = less fault liability.
However once I looked at the Ford quality (now there's a contradiction) of the lamp housing, and how the flat plate wiring is held I place by dabs of melted plastic, especially close to the input pins. It is pretty obvious what will happen if long duration heat is applied, to solder wire tails onto the pins.
And therefore for that reason alone I opted for push connectors.
My intention is to replace all rear filament lamps, with Led ones.
Thus reducing current flow, and the potential of any associated heat at the friction joints.
T.
However once I looked at the Ford quality (now there's a contradiction) of the lamp housing, and how the flat plate wiring is held I place by dabs of melted plastic, especially close to the input pins. It is pretty obvious what will happen if long duration heat is applied, to solder wire tails onto the pins.
And therefore for that reason alone I opted for push connectors.
My intention is to replace all rear filament lamps, with Led ones.
Thus reducing current flow, and the potential of any associated heat at the friction joints.
T.
Personally I'm bored with this now...
I go into my garage, find wire, connectors, crimping tool, shrink wrap.
Strip wire, crimp on connectors, cover with sleeving, clean pins, fit connectors.
More sleeving over all wires.... Close garage, wash hands, have dinner/tea/etc.
Still waiting for new multi plugs to arrive... So doing sumat else tomorrow.
T.
I go into my garage, find wire, connectors, crimping tool, shrink wrap.
Strip wire, crimp on connectors, cover with sleeving, clean pins, fit connectors.
More sleeving over all wires.... Close garage, wash hands, have dinner/tea/etc.
Still waiting for new multi plugs to arrive... So doing sumat else tomorrow.
T.
Excuse me Pen...
It wasn't unbeknown that I am preventing any Neg supply current flow issues.
It IS being done as a preventative measure of such that I'm changing to Led lighting ! Its also as an engine load reduction, thus fuel saving too.
As far as soldering is always better... Just Google Merc SLK K40 relay circuit board problems.
Plus... OMG, my 12 week old modern car still has plug & socket connectors all over it. Better get my gas soldering iron out now....
It wasn't unbeknown that I am preventing any Neg supply current flow issues.
It IS being done as a preventative measure of such that I'm changing to Led lighting ! Its also as an engine load reduction, thus fuel saving too.
As far as soldering is always better... Just Google Merc SLK K40 relay circuit board problems.
Plus... OMG, my 12 week old modern car still has plug & socket connectors all over it. Better get my gas soldering iron out now....
Edited by Blue 30 on Wednesday 28th August 11:36
Thanks guys for your hands on suggestions.
Nice to know that fellow owners have encountered the same.
On one of my occasions of attempting to be a contortionist under the dash.
I looked as best as I could at the wheel boxes, sent a spray of light light in their general direction hoping it penetrated through the many gaps. Plus pushing the spindle assembly down from the outside once the gunk had been removed, then liberally spraying oil again. The cable seems to push/pull okay, and the wheels rotate... at the moment. There are signs if previous water ingress (the kallistas did the same) !!
I will of course re seal from the outside when I'm ready to lock every thing down.
Like you guys, I will most likely wake up my Blue Peter skills to fabricate something suitable if required.
I too had thought about a touch of super glue on the splits.
If that fails it might be... Drill a hole in a suitable small bottle cap and insert a grommet.... Yes it does look like a small sized master cylinder dust cover.
But the garage door is about to close for our summer hols.
Back soon. T.
Nice to know that fellow owners have encountered the same.
On one of my occasions of attempting to be a contortionist under the dash.
I looked as best as I could at the wheel boxes, sent a spray of light light in their general direction hoping it penetrated through the many gaps. Plus pushing the spindle assembly down from the outside once the gunk had been removed, then liberally spraying oil again. The cable seems to push/pull okay, and the wheels rotate... at the moment. There are signs if previous water ingress (the kallistas did the same) !!
I will of course re seal from the outside when I'm ready to lock every thing down.
Like you guys, I will most likely wake up my Blue Peter skills to fabricate something suitable if required.
I too had thought about a touch of super glue on the splits.
If that fails it might be... Drill a hole in a suitable small bottle cap and insert a grommet.... Yes it does look like a small sized master cylinder dust cover.
But the garage door is about to close for our summer hols.
Back soon. T.
Great find guys... Thanks.
I was thinking of using these. And being plastic rather than rubber they should outlast me. And they're cheap too (less than £2 for 4) !
All I need to do is drill an appropriately sized hole, and jobs a good un.
Plastic cable end caps.
I was thinking of using these. And being plastic rather than rubber they should outlast me. And they're cheap too (less than £2 for 4) !
All I need to do is drill an appropriately sized hole, and jobs a good un.
Plastic cable end caps.
Edited by Blue 30 on Saturday 31st August 12:15
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