Wanted 2.8 engine
Discussion
Glad to hear you are making good progress and now have enough to build a good engine! Inevitably another 2.8 turned up, but not as close to you. I have a couple of people keeping an eye out for one just in case anyone else needs one. Useful that Burton have confirmed a carb engine is OK. Keep us posted.
Time for an update.
Rebuilt engine back in and running, however still have a fuel/ignition issue.
Misses/stalls when you pull away and misses/cuts out when constant speed, mostly OK when accelerating but still misses at times.
However when it "singing" it goes like stink!
I have a failed auxiliary air valve so blocked that off and better but still as above, (new one on order)
Should I go for hotter spark plugs with the new CAM? Currently running BCPR6ES.
Coil, leads dissy cap all new before engine rebuild, only thing left to change is rotor arm, (new one on order)
I have also ordered a new ignition module just in case.
I have lifted the air plate in the distribution head slightly as it was below the taper, again helped but not cured.
Did fuel pumo flow test on retun pipe and got approx 1ltr in 30 sec, (spec is minimum 750ml) so this seems ok
Could it just be tuning required with rebuilt engine and fast road cam or more likely ignition issue which is what it feels like to me
Rebuilt engine back in and running, however still have a fuel/ignition issue.
Misses/stalls when you pull away and misses/cuts out when constant speed, mostly OK when accelerating but still misses at times.
However when it "singing" it goes like stink!
I have a failed auxiliary air valve so blocked that off and better but still as above, (new one on order)
Should I go for hotter spark plugs with the new CAM? Currently running BCPR6ES.
Coil, leads dissy cap all new before engine rebuild, only thing left to change is rotor arm, (new one on order)
I have also ordered a new ignition module just in case.
I have lifted the air plate in the distribution head slightly as it was below the taper, again helped but not cured.
Did fuel pumo flow test on retun pipe and got approx 1ltr in 30 sec, (spec is minimum 750ml) so this seems ok
Could it just be tuning required with rebuilt engine and fast road cam or more likely ignition issue which is what it feels like to me
It is pretty well impossible to get the fuel injection right on the K Jetronic throughout the range without using a gas analyser. Lifting the air valve will effect the metering and will also effect the slow running characteristics. You can adjust the metering screw but that has an effect on the slow running as well. Too many variables! I am lucky in having a local garage who let me use the analyser. At least one other S1 owner bought his own gas analyser.
LR Bean said:
....Should I go for hotter spark plugs with the new CAM? Currently running BCPR6ES....
Personally, the plugs would be the last thing I'd think on changing at this stage. A hard plug might cure misfiring at sustained high revs, but might also cause difficult starting when cold. I think you would want to rule out everything else before you start changing plugs. If you get it wrong, eg fitting too soft a plug, you run the risk of putting a hole in one of your nice new pistons. So, my two-pence-worth is, stick with the standard plugs, at least until you get everything else working properly.Not sure on dissy profile, but it's only fast road so hopefully OK.
Fair point on plugs, will leave alone for moment.
Tonight I ran it up and it ran OK to start with then started missing and running rougher so I thought I'd check fuel tank/pre pump for dirt. . . . . . .and found jelly in the fuel and the internal tank filter completely blocked pipes a bit brittle too so will change these and fit an inline filter pretty pump. Good news inside tank doesn't look too bad so don't have to rush into getting a new alloy/stainless tank.
Fair point on plugs, will leave alone for moment.
Tonight I ran it up and it ran OK to start with then started missing and running rougher so I thought I'd check fuel tank/pre pump for dirt. . . . . . .and found jelly in the fuel and the internal tank filter completely blocked pipes a bit brittle too so will change these and fit an inline filter pretty pump. Good news inside tank doesn't look too bad so don't have to rush into getting a new alloy/stainless tank.
Glad you now have 2.8 power back!!
Anybody with an early S and that type of in tank filter should get it out. The filter is made of a plastic which simply wasnt intended to be immersed continuously for that long..and exposed to ethanol. It will have deteriorated and almost certainly wont be a fine filter any more...mine was distorted, had several holes in it, and areas of completely blocked mesh.
The K Jetronic is very sensitive to fuel pressure. Strongly suggest any 2.8 owner gets the fuel pressure checked (my local garage have a good fuel pressure tester that is rarely used these days).
If any crud has come through from the tank it WILL have reduced the pump performance. These high pressure injection pumps are very susceptible to internal damage and a relatively small amount of damage will reduce fuel pressure capability. If the rear filter has gone then any crud is bound to go to the large injector filter next to the fuel meter head. After I had fuelling problems I opened this 'can' up and found a surprising amount of contamination, that 'jelly' you found will be in there too.
If a tank is found to be corroded inside, which is very likely particularly if it has stood for any time with any air in it, then it can be restored using a modern process. Hartlepool Radiator have the franchise and I was very impressed with the results and guarantee given.
Anybody with an early S and that type of in tank filter should get it out. The filter is made of a plastic which simply wasnt intended to be immersed continuously for that long..and exposed to ethanol. It will have deteriorated and almost certainly wont be a fine filter any more...mine was distorted, had several holes in it, and areas of completely blocked mesh.
The K Jetronic is very sensitive to fuel pressure. Strongly suggest any 2.8 owner gets the fuel pressure checked (my local garage have a good fuel pressure tester that is rarely used these days).
If any crud has come through from the tank it WILL have reduced the pump performance. These high pressure injection pumps are very susceptible to internal damage and a relatively small amount of damage will reduce fuel pressure capability. If the rear filter has gone then any crud is bound to go to the large injector filter next to the fuel meter head. After I had fuelling problems I opened this 'can' up and found a surprising amount of contamination, that 'jelly' you found will be in there too.
If a tank is found to be corroded inside, which is very likely particularly if it has stood for any time with any air in it, then it can be restored using a modern process. Hartlepool Radiator have the franchise and I was very impressed with the results and guarantee given.
Not sure but I think someone else, possibly on FB was looking for one, this one is ex an S1 (although it now has carb manifold);
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-2-8i-V6-Cologne-Eng...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-2-8i-V6-Cologne-Eng...
Another one down south if someone wants to snap it up for a spare. Too far away for me.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-V6-2-8i-Cologne-Eng...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-V6-2-8i-Cologne-Eng...
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