Steering Column UJ's
Discussion
Hello all,
Finally got my car on the ramps to see where the 'knocking' sound was coming from, assuming it was the drop links.
Got a shock when I gripped the intermediate shaft on the steering column (ie. the shaft in the engine bay between the two UJ's). I could not only hear , but see movement between the shaft and lower UJ. Also, there seemed to be some play in the top end where the triangular shaft comes through the bulkhead.
I replaced both UJ's when I got the car, so they have only done 8k miles. Surely they should last longer than this? Can't remember which website I got them from, so would appreciate any suggestions.
Also, I know there has been many discussions about the bulkhead bearing, but can someone advise if this looks like the later standard please?
Finally got my car on the ramps to see where the 'knocking' sound was coming from, assuming it was the drop links.
Got a shock when I gripped the intermediate shaft on the steering column (ie. the shaft in the engine bay between the two UJ's). I could not only hear , but see movement between the shaft and lower UJ. Also, there seemed to be some play in the top end where the triangular shaft comes through the bulkhead.
I replaced both UJ's when I got the car, so they have only done 8k miles. Surely they should last longer than this? Can't remember which website I got them from, so would appreciate any suggestions.
Also, I know there has been many discussions about the bulkhead bearing, but can someone advise if this looks like the later standard please?
There was some discussion and I believe an acceptance from Rally Design (fair play to them if that's true) that they had switched suppliers and had suffered quality problems - if you think you bought them from there it might be worth giving them a call.
Mods if this breaks name and shame rules (personally I don't think there are any grounds) then you will have to do your worst.
Mods if this breaks name and shame rules (personally I don't think there are any grounds) then you will have to do your worst.
Barkychoc said:
There was some discussion and I believe an acceptance from Rally Design (fair play to them if that's true) that they had switched suppliers and had suffered quality problems - if you think you bought them from there it might be worth giving them a call.
Mods if this breaks name and shame rules (personally I don't think there are any grounds) then you will have to do your worst.
That explains why I had one for less than a few months before it too developed play. Never pushed it back on them though!Mods if this breaks name and shame rules (personally I don't think there are any grounds) then you will have to do your worst.
Thanks Geert, from your photo, clearly my bulkhead bearing is the later version, so I will assume it to be ok.
Barkychoc, I can remember now, it was Rally Design I got them from. I'll give them a call tomorrow and see what they say. If I get no joy from them, I will call Neil at ML (thanks Graham!).
As usual, excellent support, much appreciated,
Many thanks,
Graham
Barkychoc, I can remember now, it was Rally Design I got them from. I'll give them a call tomorrow and see what they say. If I get no joy from them, I will call Neil at ML (thanks Graham!).
As usual, excellent support, much appreciated,
Many thanks,
Graham
Hi Graham,
Yes, your bulkhead bearing looks to be the later ball bearing type, but is there any weather protection on the outside, and is the special retainer washer in place? It's a spring steel circular clip with a triangular centre that keeps the nylon inner bush in place. Without it, it can slip out.
Also, is the play in the u/j actually present in the u/j itself, or at the splined coupling?
I recently fitted a brand new Rally Design U/J ( cast version not pressed steel ), and there was play between it and the lower shaft because the pinch bolt wasn't closing up the slot enough when tightened. I bought a couple of HT bolts and tightened them up to a far higher torque than would be considered normal. This closed up the slot sufficiently for the u/j to clamp tightly onto the shaft, and all play was eradicated.
Sweet.
There is a thread on here somewhere about it if you search.
HTH
Glen
Yes, your bulkhead bearing looks to be the later ball bearing type, but is there any weather protection on the outside, and is the special retainer washer in place? It's a spring steel circular clip with a triangular centre that keeps the nylon inner bush in place. Without it, it can slip out.
Also, is the play in the u/j actually present in the u/j itself, or at the splined coupling?
I recently fitted a brand new Rally Design U/J ( cast version not pressed steel ), and there was play between it and the lower shaft because the pinch bolt wasn't closing up the slot enough when tightened. I bought a couple of HT bolts and tightened them up to a far higher torque than would be considered normal. This closed up the slot sufficiently for the u/j to clamp tightly onto the shaft, and all play was eradicated.
Sweet.
There is a thread on here somewhere about it if you search.
HTH
Glen
Hi Glen, it was difficult to say exactly where the movement was coming from as my near vision is crap now that I am approaching 50!!, though when I installed them 3 years ago, they were solid.
I checked the bolts and all were tight, so I am thinking the UJ's are kaput!
Actually, I got a warning last April by the MOT station, but I assumed they were being hyper critical.
The UJ's don't cost that much, so I'll just change them again, and see how things are. Easier than changing the bulkhead bearing. The bearing has the triangle hole clip thingy, which I also made sure was pushed fully against the bulkhead.
I know you are impressed with my use of technical speak, but I HAVE had a fair amount of Scottish water tonight!!
Cheers,
Graham
I checked the bolts and all were tight, so I am thinking the UJ's are kaput!
Actually, I got a warning last April by the MOT station, but I assumed they were being hyper critical.
The UJ's don't cost that much, so I'll just change them again, and see how things are. Easier than changing the bulkhead bearing. The bearing has the triangle hole clip thingy, which I also made sure was pushed fully against the bulkhead.
I know you are impressed with my use of technical speak, but I HAVE had a fair amount of Scottish water tonight!!
Cheers,
Graham
Sandgrounder said:
Hi Glen, it was difficult to say exactly where the movement was coming from as my near vision is crap now that I am approaching 50!!, though when I installed them 3 years ago, they were solid.
I checked the bolts and all were tight, so I am thinking the UJ's are kaput!
I know you are impressed with my use of technical speak, but I HAVE had a fair amount of Scottish water tonight!!
Cheers,
Graham
Graham, I checked the bolts and all were tight, so I am thinking the UJ's are kaput!
I know you are impressed with my use of technical speak, but I HAVE had a fair amount of Scottish water tonight!!
Cheers,
Graham
You're talking my kind of language!
As Phillpot says, you have to REALLY tighten those pinch bolts to close up the slots in that hefty U/J casting.
I fitted new high tensile bolts and new ( shallow ) nuts, but I had to shorten the bolts so they didn't foul on the chassis vertical member. Two threads protruding from the stiffnut is sufficient. With the front jacked up, turn the steering fully from lock to lock to ensure nothing fouls.
Spoke to Rally Design and they no longer sell the cast/forged?? lower UJ, just the pressed steel one now!
So, after expressing my disappointment that the previous purchase had only done 8k, I ordered a set of replacements.
I changed the top UJ today as weather forecast was poor to see what difference that made. However with top disconnected, I could grip the intermediate shaft and feel the wear in the lower UJ, so will have to do both after all (probably next weekend now). With previous comments in mind, I gave the top lock bolt plenty of force, but as it was starting to loosen up, I fear I may have stripped the threads. I'll give it a bit less when I replace the bolt!!
When I tested the triangular section from the bulkhead, I could feel/hear a small bit of play in that!! Is that a sign that bulkhead bearing is kaputt, or is a small amount acceptable (if anyone has done a similar check)??
Thanks
So, after expressing my disappointment that the previous purchase had only done 8k, I ordered a set of replacements.
I changed the top UJ today as weather forecast was poor to see what difference that made. However with top disconnected, I could grip the intermediate shaft and feel the wear in the lower UJ, so will have to do both after all (probably next weekend now). With previous comments in mind, I gave the top lock bolt plenty of force, but as it was starting to loosen up, I fear I may have stripped the threads. I'll give it a bit less when I replace the bolt!!
When I tested the triangular section from the bulkhead, I could feel/hear a small bit of play in that!! Is that a sign that bulkhead bearing is kaputt, or is a small amount acceptable (if anyone has done a similar check)??
Thanks
Sandgrounder said:
I changed the top UJ today as weather forecast was poor to see what difference that made.
Graham, In my experience, changing u/j's usually has little or no effect on the weather. However, from what you have said, I think you have probably stripped the thread on that bolt, so I would replace that with high tensile bolts and new nuts before you drive the car. You don't want it falling out as you're driving.
You will still need to get it really tight on the splined shaft though. High tensile can take a bit more "welly".
Re the column bulkhead bearing, there really should be no lateral play.
It could be that just the nylon components are worn, unless the outside of the bearing is unprotected and exposed to road spray, which could cause premature wear of the ball bearing assembly.
Well, unless there is something on the driver side of the bulkhead, I guess not.
Surely, if a protective cover was required, it would need to go between the triangular washer and the UJ?
Could do with a photo if someone has 'protection' as I am struggling to visualise it, if anyone can oblige??
Thanks
Surely, if a protective cover was required, it would need to go between the triangular washer and the UJ?
Could do with a photo if someone has 'protection' as I am struggling to visualise it, if anyone can oblige??
Thanks
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