Clutch master cylinder
Discussion
Right then folks, help needed.
My technical knowledge makes Longers look like a crack F1 mechanic, so bear with me.
Took the S out for a spin in the lovely weather yesterday after taxing it the day before. As is normal for my life of attrition (the baskets won't grind me down though) I ended the journey on the back of an AA flatbed, getting home a shade before zero dot thirty!!
Anyway, the issue was / is a collapsed master clutch cylinder - the diaphragm just won't be freed - the AA man tried for over an hour in freezing, dark roadside conditions.
Best solution I think is a new one but how many are there to choose from!!!
So can anyone help confirm the one in this link is the right one - 0.7 gauge?
http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/BRAKE-&-CLUT...
Many thanks for your patience and support for this numpty.
Having watched the old one being removed, I reckon I might have a crack at fitting the new one, getting a mate to help bleed it once fitted.
Cheers,
Max
My technical knowledge makes Longers look like a crack F1 mechanic, so bear with me.
Took the S out for a spin in the lovely weather yesterday after taxing it the day before. As is normal for my life of attrition (the baskets won't grind me down though) I ended the journey on the back of an AA flatbed, getting home a shade before zero dot thirty!!
Anyway, the issue was / is a collapsed master clutch cylinder - the diaphragm just won't be freed - the AA man tried for over an hour in freezing, dark roadside conditions.
Best solution I think is a new one but how many are there to choose from!!!
So can anyone help confirm the one in this link is the right one - 0.7 gauge?
http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/BRAKE-&-CLUT...
Many thanks for your patience and support for this numpty.
Having watched the old one being removed, I reckon I might have a crack at fitting the new one, getting a mate to help bleed it once fitted.
Cheers,
Max
Glenn,
Thanks for the response - it'll be me using the wrong terms that has caused your confusion with my diagnosis. The issue is definitely with the master cylinder insides.
Your comprehensive response means nothing to me unfortunately due to my incompetence/lack of knowledge rather than what you've written.
When I say diaphragm, I mean the "bit" inside the master cylinder that the push rod presses into to make the fluid compress in to the slave. There's been no leakage, so I think the seals are/were all ok. The moving bit inside the master cylinder seems wedged fast. He (AA man) tried in vain to free it. There was loads of crud and crap inside so it may be that that is causing the problem.
I suppose if I could get it moving, then a seal kit might be enough.
Greg has also suggested swapping the slave cylinder too so if I end up changing both, with a new connecting pipe it eradicates the difference in connector diameter.
Thanks for the response - it'll be me using the wrong terms that has caused your confusion with my diagnosis. The issue is definitely with the master cylinder insides.
Your comprehensive response means nothing to me unfortunately due to my incompetence/lack of knowledge rather than what you've written.
When I say diaphragm, I mean the "bit" inside the master cylinder that the push rod presses into to make the fluid compress in to the slave. There's been no leakage, so I think the seals are/were all ok. The moving bit inside the master cylinder seems wedged fast. He (AA man) tried in vain to free it. There was loads of crud and crap inside so it may be that that is causing the problem.
I suppose if I could get it moving, then a seal kit might be enough.
Greg has also suggested swapping the slave cylinder too so if I end up changing both, with a new connecting pipe it eradicates the difference in connector diameter.
ElvisWedgely said:
There is one for sale on ebay right now, which is a Marina one, and should go straight on.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350438023774?ssPageName=...
Tony. TCB.
Cheers. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350438023774?ssPageName=...
Tony. TCB.
phillpot said:
Go for new without question but Marina slave is not right ( look at picture, no mounting bolt holes), Land Rover is the common substitute or buy whole lot from TVR specialist if you don't want "issues" with different thread/pipe sizes.
Pipe should be 1/4", not brake pipe which is 3/16"
Thanks Mike - bought the new master in the link above but was just looking at the slave, and was unsure if it "looked right". The bible doesn't have great slave pics and was about to start investigating on the web.Pipe should be 1/4", not brake pipe which is 3/16"
Might have to have a look at what's actually on the car and start from there. At least I shoud be able to get mobile again soon when the new master arrives.
This forum never ceases to amaze me with the vast knowledge and support it supplies - thank you all.
Max
PompeyTim said:
Hi Max,
As well as replacing mater & slave I'd also highly recommend ditching the copper pipe & replacing with a flexi hose. When we had issues in the Alps it was due to the pipe having fatigued... hardly surprising given that one end is fixed and the other has been twisting & flexing for the last 20 odd years. TVR obviously realised that it wasn't that clever and introduced a 'pig tail' coil to provide some relief at the slave cylinder end on the Griff / Chim.
I had my flexi made up by Neil when TVR Car Parts were still operating: I'm sure he could help you out (now ML Performance).
Oh, and a bit of stainless bling never goes amiss (as I'm sure Mike will agree)
do you recall how long the flexi-hose was in the end? i may well bite the bullet and swap both ;-/As well as replacing mater & slave I'd also highly recommend ditching the copper pipe & replacing with a flexi hose. When we had issues in the Alps it was due to the pipe having fatigued... hardly surprising given that one end is fixed and the other has been twisting & flexing for the last 20 odd years. TVR obviously realised that it wasn't that clever and introduced a 'pig tail' coil to provide some relief at the slave cylinder end on the Griff / Chim.
I had my flexi made up by Neil when TVR Car Parts were still operating: I'm sure he could help you out (now ML Performance).
Oh, and a bit of stainless bling never goes amiss (as I'm sure Mike will agree)
PompeyTim said:
If you're confused about Greg replying its 'cause the car's in his garage whilst I have a pile of Griff bits in mine!
Seem to remember that I just took the pipe off & posted it to Neil to use as a pattern, but as Greg said I had a banjo fitted at the master cylinder end. The other end is just a straight fitting.
Oh, one small tip... DON'T drop one of the slave cylinder mounting bolts into the hole in the bell housing... you can guess how I know this!
He did mention he'd taken delivery of a new car Seem to remember that I just took the pipe off & posted it to Neil to use as a pattern, but as Greg said I had a banjo fitted at the master cylinder end. The other end is just a straight fitting.
Oh, one small tip... DON'T drop one of the slave cylinder mounting bolts into the hole in the bell housing... you can guess how I know this!
Mr Plow said:
Also been there, done it. the bolt then got caught in the ring gear on the flywheel, ended up spliting the engine and gearbox to get it out. Make sure you stuff a rag or something in the hole.
Every time I think about doing a job myself, I hear loud sirens when warnings like ths come up!!Mr Plow said:
Max - have you got somewhere to get the pipe made up?
I've e-mailed ML Performance on Tim's recommendation (flexi-hose) for a price.ElvisWedgely said:
There is one for sale on ebay right now, which is a Marina one, and should go straight on.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350438023774?ssPageName=...
Tony. TCB.
Bought one of these and can confirm these need an adaptor as they take the smaller 3/8inch UNF diameter pipe connector.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350438023774?ssPageName=...
Tony. TCB.
Really peasant bloke and speedy delivery. He also supplies the adaptors but I'm possibly going to change the slave and pipe (to flexi-hose).
Max
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