A nice stiff one
Discussion
... clutch pedal that is! You can't beat a stiff clutch.
With the new slave in, the travel in the pedal has disappeared at the top, and the leak has gone of course.
Also the power steering has stopped getting heavy occasionally, so I wonder if clutch fluid spatterings have stopped getting onto the drive belt.... I was getting though an entire cylinder of fluid every 20 miles by the end of it ;^)
These are landrover master and slave now, and they work great. Just getting used to the bite point being much higher.
With the new slave in, the travel in the pedal has disappeared at the top, and the leak has gone of course.
Also the power steering has stopped getting heavy occasionally, so I wonder if clutch fluid spatterings have stopped getting onto the drive belt.... I was getting though an entire cylinder of fluid every 20 miles by the end of it ;^)
These are landrover master and slave now, and they work great. Just getting used to the bite point being much higher.
adam quantrill said:
... clutch pedal that is! You can't beat a stiff clutch.
With the new slave in, the travel in the pedal has disappeared at the top, and the leak has gone of course.
Also the power steering has stopped getting heavy occasionally, so I wonder if clutch fluid spatterings have stopped getting onto the drive belt.... I was getting though an entire cylinder of fluid every 20 miles by the end of it ;^)
These are landrover master and slave now, and they work great. Just getting used to the bite point being much higher.
So, to sumerize then, you've lost all your fluid, now you've got a stiff one, you've had to adapt your pipe, converted to Rover, and you now have a new master and a new slave. That's the clutch hydraulics right? Someone once offered me an adaptor and I never took them up on it and instead sourced an older type of slave and used that. All I can say is well done. In fact, I think others would be interested in that pipe adaptation if you were to turn out a few more while you're at it. It won't be long before someone else has the same problem as the clutch hydraulics on the Wedge has never been that reliable.With the new slave in, the travel in the pedal has disappeared at the top, and the leak has gone of course.
Also the power steering has stopped getting heavy occasionally, so I wonder if clutch fluid spatterings have stopped getting onto the drive belt.... I was getting though an entire cylinder of fluid every 20 miles by the end of it ;^)
These are landrover master and slave now, and they work great. Just getting used to the bite point being much higher.
Tony. TCB.
adam quantrill said:
I would have to offer the slave plus adapter as a kit or else there's no guarantee you'd get the correct fit.
That's even better isn't it? The slave and the adaptor offered as one would save them the trouble of sourcing a slave. Also being a Rover slave, it should be easy for you to get hold of and match it with your adaptor. If I needed one, and these are regularly needed on Wedges, I would be more than grateful to fit your set and swiftly solve the problem, even if it cost a little more.Tony. TCB.
That's the beauty of it - it would actually cost less! £6 for the slave, plus the fittings, a bit of pipe and for my time to flare the ends and to pay for a brake pipe flaring tool (I currently bodge mine with a Torx bit hammered into the end to flare it out - not good enough though for selling to punters - and it's fiddly to do.)
Usually the TVR slaves are £40? plus so the total would be way under that.
Usually the TVR slaves are £40? plus so the total would be way under that.
I have just been informed by a well known Wedge Connoisseur that clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder are readily available, new, off the shelf for little money. Around £65 for the pair I understand. In which case, there would be little point in going to the trouble of modifying existing parts. In fact brake masters etc are also available at reasonable cost. I was under the impression that these parts are no longer avaliable or very expensive when sourced, but apparently not.
Tony. TCB.
Tony. TCB.
Exactly Tony so there is no need to bodge anything...I have secretly been listing the hard to get parts and finding out information from people that sourced the original parts..Some were TVR specific that you wouldn't of thought were..Like the centre console ashtrays and NOT Metro as thought by some people, De-mister top vents...It no surprise then when people hold back the info as some of the parts are American which explains the difference in thread and are cheaply available yet these items become illusive and with high price tags..Its all bullst...I love exposing bullst..especially if it benefits everyone....So watch out you bullstters I'm on to you....
The Metro was a fine town car for going shopping https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C8bO7OfUgqg
ElvisWedgely said:
I have just been informed by a well known Wedge Connoisseur that clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder are readily available, new, off the shelf for little money. Around £65 for the pair ...
But my pair are £19, less than a third of the price. There still seems to be a "prestige car" markup factor if the part is destined for a TVR....Rule number 1 - earn as much as you can in as little time as possible.
Rule number 2 - pay as little as possible for stuff.
adam quantrill said:
But my pair are £19, less than a third of the price. There still seems to be a "prestige car" markup factor if the part is destined for a TVR....
Rule number 1 - earn as much as you can in as little time as possible.
Rule number 2 - pay as little as possible for stuff.
I am all for saving money as we didn't have much of it when I was growing up. I have also worked hard all my life, though not always for big money, to have what I have today. I also believe, that in some instances cutting corners can be a false economy as with some things you get what you pay for.Rule number 1 - earn as much as you can in as little time as possible.
Rule number 2 - pay as little as possible for stuff.
I can understand modifying a part or even remaking it, if its no longer available. After all, our aim is to keep our cars on the road. However, is it not better to go with the original that we know works, even if it means paying a little more?
Tony.TCB
adam quantrill said:
But my pair are £19, less than a third of the price. There still seems to be a "prestige car" markup factor if the part is destined for a TVR....
Rule number 1 - earn as much as you can in as little time as possible.
Rule number 2 - pay as little as possible for stuff.
Attempting to control the price with a parts supplier:Rule number 1 - earn as much as you can in as little time as possible.
Rule number 2 - pay as little as possible for stuff.
"It's for a Rover V8, do you have one in stock and what is the price?"
"What is the car?"
"Errm ... a kitcar"
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