Delilah is in for the second part of surgery

[mrzigazaga]

adam quantrill said:

Did you fill it right up to start with?

Hi Adam..The initial first fill was a fill up and then the blower was first hand turned and then cranked for 10 seconds just on the starter..After that it was topped up half at a time until it settled..It has since settled to half after i topped up gradually again..Ziga

Danny Hoffman said:

Looks like the power steering is working in the video, how does it feel?

Hi Danny..It feels almost the same but there is a bit of a judder near and on full lock..Im hoping that it will settle down as it might of just been dry due to it sitting about before i bought it..Cheers...Ziga

[adam quantrill]

Sounds good then - it shouldn't spit loads out unless you over-fill.

[B@man]

Could the overheating be due to lean mixture / bad ignition timing ?? You may find that once she is set up correctly you don't need an expensive rad ?

Looks and sounds good mate !!

[adam quantrill]

Good point - you need to get a wide-band lambda on it on a rolling road (or a portable one with a port welded onto the exhaust). Get the mixture checked.

[maston]

Just watched the vid on my laptop with my son's headphones, sounded awesome
And you certainly are a popular chap, you spent half the time waving to everyone :lol:

[GV]

Sounded entertaining Zig.....well done!

[mrzigazaga]

maston said:

you certainly are a popular chap, you spent half the time waving to everyone :lol:

Apart from the old git who got a couple of fingers...

[taz turbo]

B@man said:

Could the overheating be due to lean mixture / bad ignition timing ?? You may find that once she is set up correctly you don't need an expensive rad ?

I concur, you haven't (I believe) driven it under anger yet? if this is the case you really shouldn't be stretching the cooling system.

My engine, turbocharged (read higher ambient temperatures than your car) produces a healthy output using pretty much a standard radiator, cruising 88 degrees, pressing on 90-92 degrees. I think the two cars cooling systems 'should' be a reasonable comparison. Now for the but... I think I'm correct in saying your using an electric fan? Two things spring to mind, first, is your fan moving the air in the correct direction front to rear of the radiator, second, what air flow rating is the electric fan V the original viscous fan, I would throw a guess the electric will be significantly less.

Other thought is the 'evans waterless coolant' that Andy Tank is running in some of his cars, it helps stops localised hot spots, if you are running boosted you will likely have local hot spots around the combustion chamber jackets. It's not something I use at the moment, but likely will in the future.

You really need to have the engine set-up checked sooner rather than later, otherwise if you do start pushing it, you may want to get some pistons and head gaskets ordered, what boost are you running/expecting to run and I'm sure I've said this before 'check your fuelling, and whatever system you use for fuel enrichment'

Great for how far you have got so far, I don't mean to sound negative/criticizing but I expect you could well have a fair amount of work left to do, all to be found out during the shake down period,

Chris.

PS did I tell you what the finders fee was for the blower

[mrzigazaga]

Thanks Chris..I do think that the electric fan was just about coping as its been on the car since i had it..I have ordered a turbo twin speed kenlowe fan and a new control stat..It can be a pusher or puller..The one on it at the moment is a pusher..I did have the rad recored last year and they made it slightly bigger so it should cope..Although i have ordered an alloy rad just in case i will try just the fan first..I can always send the rad back as its no problem..The timing is being controlled via the Amethyst ignition ECU and has an ignition curve of 1 Degree of advance over each 300rpm which is apparently a safe margin..I have been taking it easy as i dont want head gasket failure or worst..A payen head gasket set was used to ensure good mating of surfaces..I also had a 3 stage WUR built by KMI who used to build the exact same one for power engineering for the blown sierra 2.8i back in the day..It really does need a tune but i cant risk it until i have addressed the over heating issues..I have unleaded heads with lowered compression of a 6:5:1 CR i believe...The fan should be here tomorrow so i will be on it first thing as i might still make the dyno...Cheers..Ziga

PS: The blower is set to make 4-6psi and i will definitely think about the waterless coolant...Oh and i will but you and extra large lemonade at the fest...Cheers...

Edited by mrzigazaga on Tuesday 18th June 23:57

[wooly350i]

You are getting somewhere Mark, my copper rad £168 and twin kenlowes with there control system works absolutely fine , have you changed ya rad in the past?

[jon haines]

Wow I thought only the queen waved that much! Sounds really good that zig you happy with it?

[adam quantrill]

If you are only driving around on part throttle the blower isn't really having much effect - trust me. You only start to get boost when you stamp down on the throttle. Anything less than 80% WOT and you will be driving a "normal" car.

I have a boost gauge in mine and that's exactly what I see - it's mostly on vacuum when driving in 30 and 40 zones, and even when cruising at, ahem, 70 m'lud.

Sooo.. I would be surprised if your cooling issues _so_far_ are caused by the blower or mixture being too lean. I would suspect something simple such as an airlock or the water pump/fan belt or thermostat.

What happens if you just let it idle? Does the fan kick in and bring the temperature down, and it doesn't boil/overflow? If not, that's the place to start.

[Mr Tank]

mrzigazaga said:

i will definitely think about the waterless coolant...Oh and i will but you and extra large lemonade at the fest...Cheers...

Edited by mrzigazaga on Tuesday 18th June 23:57

Hi Mark

The wateless coolant is great but it will not the cure problems you have.

Get them sorted first then fit it as its expensive and you don't want to waste it!

It will run cooler as there is no water to boil in it and you don't get any pressure from that.

But if you have a flaw in the system it will not cure it!

It's weird when its in the system.
When the engines up to temp and the fans are running and you can remove the rad cap or the cap on the swan neck on a V8 and watch the liquid flow with out it pg out all over you!

You have taken anothe step forward mate so keep at it!

Andy

[mrzigazaga]

Hi Adam..When i checked it yesterday for air the bottom rad hose was getting hot which means the thermostat is opening and there were no cold spots on the rad..The fan kicked in and when i turned the ignition off the fan stayed on for a couple of minutes and then went off just like it use to..If i leave it idling the fan stays on and when i turn it down by about 5mm on the stat it goes off so i think its struggling to get the temp down that few more degrees...I only lost about a pint when it boiled over and that was after a 12 mile run home and some sitting in medium traffic..I know in the past when that has happend i have lost all my coolant..Im beginning to wonder if its the cooling fan losing its efficiency and the fuse melting the other day is a sign that its packing up..TBH it doesnt feel as much air blowing through as it use to..Although it sounds like its running fast enough..Last year i bought a relatively cheap fan to replace the old one but after running it with the recored rad it did the same thing and you could feel the breeze coming through so im now thinking the CFM has dropped enough to hinder correct airflow..Hopefully the turbo fan will arrive this morning and put an end to all this milarky..OVER = More but its not always a good thing..Cheers...Ziga

[B@man]

adam quantrill said:

Good point - you need to get a wide-band lambda on it on a rolling road (or a portable one with a port welded onto the exhaust). Get the mixture checked.

Shame you are not up here you could have borrowed my innovate !!

[mrzigazaga]

Mr Tank said:

Hi Mark

The wateless coolant is great but it will not the cure problems you have.

Get them sorted first then fit it as its expensive and you don't want to waste it!

It will run cooler as there is no water to boil in it and you don't get any pressure from that.

But if you have a flaw in the system it will not cure it!

It's weird when its in the system.
When the engines up to temp and the fans are running and you can remove the rad cap or the cap on the swan neck on a V8 and watch the liquid flow with out it pg out all over you!

You have taken anothe step forward mate so keep at it!

Andy

Hi Andy..Yes i totally agree..Dont want to be chucking it all over the road....Im going to have another look today but dont want to warm it up until the new fan arrives...I might use the new off road slimline fan that i bought last year to extract engine bay heat build up whilst stationery..If it fits that is..I intend to use the existing top bonnet vent and re-model with a fibreglass housing underneath it which is controlled via a thermostat probe..(Hopefully)..Cheers..Ziga

B@man said:

Shame you are not up here you could have borrowed my innovate !!

Cheers for the offer mate..Im really needing the tune up and then hopefully it all should be running as planned...A nail biting time...Ziga

[adam quantrill]

Yeah sounds like you know what you are doing with the cooling - good luck. Check for bubbles too in case there's a head gasket leak, which will knacker things up.

[Transmitter Man]

Zig,

You may wish to get your rad man to also supply you with a tailor made alloy cowl to cover the whole rad core and with your fan/s sucking through.

Far more efficient than standard.

When you have completely control over engine running temp then and only then get her on the rollers otherwise I'm sure she'd overheat - many do!

Phil
420 SEAC

[mrzigazaga]

Hi Phil..The fan came today but i didnt get a chance to fit it..However it is a 17" Kenlowe turbo boost fan with a low speed thats triggered by a thermostat and a high speed setting that comes on if it detects a slightly higher temperature..Unfortunately it will only just about go in front of the rad, Pushing air through as there is not much space engine side due to the blower..Maybe the alloy one will be slightly thinner..There are slimline fans but they didnt have the turbo boost..Hopefully i wont need the rad but the sierra apparently had a plastic type rad with a much bigger surface area so in contrast mine is too small for this application.I did call power engineering and they didnt want to dyno it running hot or over heating..Understandable really!..They also said that it will run hotter and they see this all the time so perhaps my cooling system was ok for the standard engine set up and not for blown..Fingers crossed for some more weather like today please..Then i can crack on...Cheers mate...Ziga

[ChimpOnGas]

Zig, plumb this in and you'll be all sorted

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Davies-Craig-EBP-Electri...