Repairable? Or am I looking for a donor body?
Discussion
Latest update. I gave the car to my mechanic to check my work and get the car ready for licensing. I said they should do it when they had spare time and they're taking me at my word! Fair enough I guess but I'm getting impatient now. They have made some progress though.
They started the car the other day but we have a fueling problem to solve. The car starts and idles okay from cold, plus it reacts to the throttle as it should, BUT when you release the throttle the engine just dies. It's then very hard to start again unless you wait 10-15 mins. Exhaust smells very rich, so it seems to be over-fuelling.
This is the KJet system on my 280. New accumulator, fuel pump and lines to/from engine bay. New swirl pot too.
Any ideas where to start looking?
Thanks in advance!
They started the car the other day but we have a fueling problem to solve. The car starts and idles okay from cold, plus it reacts to the throttle as it should, BUT when you release the throttle the engine just dies. It's then very hard to start again unless you wait 10-15 mins. Exhaust smells very rich, so it seems to be over-fuelling.
This is the KJet system on my 280. New accumulator, fuel pump and lines to/from engine bay. New swirl pot too.
Any ideas where to start looking?
Thanks in advance!
Thanks Zig, that guide could be useful, someone has put a lot of time into it...
All I did to the metering head was change the copper washers, new air hose, new air filter and airbox as mine was cracked.
Haven't touched the adjustment screw. Likewise the other peripherals, I've left them alone as much as possible as all was working fine pre the lay up of the car for 7 years.
All I did to the metering head was change the copper washers, new air hose, new air filter and airbox as mine was cracked.
Haven't touched the adjustment screw. Likewise the other peripherals, I've left them alone as much as possible as all was working fine pre the lay up of the car for 7 years.
Edited by 440Interceptor on Monday 26th December 01:14
The mechanic called me yesterday and said it was running well, did I want to take it home for the Christmas break to continue working on it. Car was full warmed up when I got there and behaved perfectly, so I now have her back in the garage at home, just a short (but fun) trip. First time she's moved under her own steam since 2006!
This morning, I Went to check Zig's comment about cold starting. Had to turn the car over for a good while before she caught after some energetic use of the throttle pedal. What actually is the correct cold start position for the throttle? Wide open? Partially open?
I think there's a fuel leak in the system somewhere which I will look for - based on smell of fuel in engine bay and time taken to start.
Ran very rough at first and I had to keep the revs up or she would die. After 5 minutes of this she had warmed up sufficiently that she would idle (900rpm). I haven't got her up to normal operating temp yet but if you blip the throttle, she revs and then cannot hold the idle and dies.
This morning, I Went to check Zig's comment about cold starting. Had to turn the car over for a good while before she caught after some energetic use of the throttle pedal. What actually is the correct cold start position for the throttle? Wide open? Partially open?
I think there's a fuel leak in the system somewhere which I will look for - based on smell of fuel in engine bay and time taken to start.
Ran very rough at first and I had to keep the revs up or she would die. After 5 minutes of this she had warmed up sufficiently that she would idle (900rpm). I haven't got her up to normal operating temp yet but if you blip the throttle, she revs and then cannot hold the idle and dies.
Boxing day morning, went out to run through the list of kind suggestions and thinking of air leaks etc, tightened up every thing i could find. Then tried to start it.
She fired up immediately, settled into a nice idle and when revved drops back to the idle perfectly. Thanks Santa.
I found the fuel leak too, return line coming from the metering head. It's a barbed fitting and my rubber hose and jubilee clip aren't sealing properly.
v8s4me - I don't have a pipe going from the oil filler to the air flow sensor (rubber) cap. Instead, I have a separate aperture in the rocker cover, with hose running to the plenum. Achieves the same purpose I suppose,, so I've made sure they are all sealed up properly.
I did notice that the rubber cap itself while serviceable has a couple of small splits in the rubber. I'm guessing these are now unobtanium or is there anywhere I can get a replacement?
Next tasks are;
1. Hand brake not working - only one arm of the mechanism is moving when handbrake applied.
2. Get the bonnet to close - sitting a little proud at the moment and I can't see what its resting on - hope its not the throttle linkage.
3. Fit the side pods and the front spoiler.
4. Drill/cut holes for exhaust pipes in (new) rear valance and fit. Problem is it's already painted so I need to be very very careful.
5. Fuel gauge is reading full but I know there's only 20 litres in it, I put them there.
6. Replace P seal on leading edge of rear window hoop.
7. Trim the boot.
That should keep me out of mischief until the mechanic is back at work then they will:
1. Do 4 wheel alignment
2. Diagnose transmission noise when clutch released - probably the biggest worry at the moment.
Still - one step at a time...
She fired up immediately, settled into a nice idle and when revved drops back to the idle perfectly. Thanks Santa.
I found the fuel leak too, return line coming from the metering head. It's a barbed fitting and my rubber hose and jubilee clip aren't sealing properly.
v8s4me - I don't have a pipe going from the oil filler to the air flow sensor (rubber) cap. Instead, I have a separate aperture in the rocker cover, with hose running to the plenum. Achieves the same purpose I suppose,, so I've made sure they are all sealed up properly.
I did notice that the rubber cap itself while serviceable has a couple of small splits in the rubber. I'm guessing these are now unobtanium or is there anywhere I can get a replacement?
Next tasks are;
1. Hand brake not working - only one arm of the mechanism is moving when handbrake applied.
2. Get the bonnet to close - sitting a little proud at the moment and I can't see what its resting on - hope its not the throttle linkage.
3. Fit the side pods and the front spoiler.
4. Drill/cut holes for exhaust pipes in (new) rear valance and fit. Problem is it's already painted so I need to be very very careful.
5. Fuel gauge is reading full but I know there's only 20 litres in it, I put them there.
6. Replace P seal on leading edge of rear window hoop.
7. Trim the boot.
That should keep me out of mischief until the mechanic is back at work then they will:
1. Do 4 wheel alignment
2. Diagnose transmission noise when clutch released - probably the biggest worry at the moment.
Still - one step at a time...
Thanks Mark, Panther eh? nice!
Thanks also Zig, I put a silicone hose on mine, Can we 3D print these caps yet? Is there a part#?
Started her up this arvo and went for a sneaky drive around the block, misfired over 2k rpm and when I got it back to the house it wouldn't rev up at all and idled slower and slower until it died.
Fingers crossed it might be low on fuel as I don't know how long the mechanic had it running. I'll confirm that before I do anything else. I did pull out one plug and it was black and sooty. Hmmm.
!
Thanks also Zig, I put a silicone hose on mine, Can we 3D print these caps yet? Is there a part#?
Started her up this arvo and went for a sneaky drive around the block, misfired over 2k rpm and when I got it back to the house it wouldn't rev up at all and idled slower and slower until it died.
Fingers crossed it might be low on fuel as I don't know how long the mechanic had it running. I'll confirm that before I do anything else. I did pull out one plug and it was black and sooty. Hmmm.
!
Thanks Zig. It was out of fuel! I put some in today and we're back to running really nicely. Exhaust sounds great.
In answer to your question, yes the mechanic did adjust the mixture, so I'll try to drive it a bit then check the plugs and see if they clean up at all. Bit hard when its not licensed yet though...
Got the handbrake working in the meantime, result!
In answer to your question, yes the mechanic did adjust the mixture, so I'll try to drive it a bit then check the plugs and see if they clean up at all. Bit hard when its not licensed yet though...
Got the handbrake working in the meantime, result!
Setback.
I took the car to get the wheel alignment done prior to licensing it. Both rears are out and I need to add/remove washers on both trailing arm pivot bolts. Problem is, when I rebuilt it I used whole washers rather than ones with cutouts...
Than means the pin has to come out of the arm...
My mechanic will be doing this on his hoist but I wanted to check with you guys what needs to come apart in order to remove the pins? I'm hoping less than more...
Many thanks, Toby.
I took the car to get the wheel alignment done prior to licensing it. Both rears are out and I need to add/remove washers on both trailing arm pivot bolts. Problem is, when I rebuilt it I used whole washers rather than ones with cutouts...
Than means the pin has to come out of the arm...
My mechanic will be doing this on his hoist but I wanted to check with you guys what needs to come apart in order to remove the pins? I'm hoping less than more...
Many thanks, Toby.
v8s4me said:
You just need to undo the smaller nut on the inboard end of the pin*. Then slide it out to the point where you can remove the spacer you don't need. Be careful though as you withdraw the pin or they will all fall out! You don't need to know how I know this 
Thanks, that's what I thought but I wanted some conformation from those in the know (theoretically of course). The Bush, pin, nuts and ahem, the washers are all new so with luck....- Hopefully that one will undo and the larger one stay tight as you turn nut other wise the job becomes a little more complicated.
Edited by v8s4me on Tuesday 3rd January 19:04
Adam, yeah, I know - rookie error. Felt a pratt in front of this suspension expert (car sent there by my mechanic). Mind you he did say the whole rear assemblies would have to come apart and it would be 3 hours labour.... In my defence I still have the old rusty washers that came of and none of them are C shaped. Live and learn.
Thanks guys.
Yep, job done, the mechanic just pulled the pins out, removed and recut the washers into c profiles and it will go the the alignment guy as soon as I fix the next problem which has popped up....
Too much play in steering rack, caused we suspect by the disintegrated rubber bush that sits (or used to..) inside the rubber bellows on the passenger side. It basically crumbled when they inspected that side. It sits between the two sides of the rack which have differing diameters, if that makes sense..
Looks like I can get a reconditioned rack from Burton power for 70 quid plus shipping but I think all I need is that bush, IF its available separately..
That should be the last hurdle before getting her registered again.
Too much play in steering rack, caused we suspect by the disintegrated rubber bush that sits (or used to..) inside the rubber bellows on the passenger side. It basically crumbled when they inspected that side. It sits between the two sides of the rack which have differing diameters, if that makes sense..
Looks like I can get a reconditioned rack from Burton power for 70 quid plus shipping but I think all I need is that bush, IF its available separately..
That should be the last hurdle before getting her registered again.
Progress!
Rack is now sorted, 4 wheel alignment done and....the car went over the pits yesterday and passed!
I will post some photos this weekend but wanted to says thanks again to all of the contributors (shout out to Adam and Zig in particular) to this lengthy post which will hopefully assist others doing their first body off resto. If I can do it, so can you...
DH5872 is alive and well.
Rack is now sorted, 4 wheel alignment done and....the car went over the pits yesterday and passed!
I will post some photos this weekend but wanted to says thanks again to all of the contributors (shout out to Adam and Zig in particular) to this lengthy post which will hopefully assist others doing their first body off resto. If I can do it, so can you...
DH5872 is alive and well.
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