My nightmare... errr restoration thread.

[Transmitter Man]

Blaine,

Was it the SDI rack that you purchased?

What track control arms are you using?

I thought the power racks were from the MK5 Tina with only the PS pump being SDI?

Phil
420 SEAC

[mike.williams]

Does anyone else have this bypass on their heater hoses at the back of the intake manifold?


Yes!
Mine has, I believe they all do. My understanding is that the heater has a simple valve afair to allow warm/hot water into the cabin. When you have the heater in the cold position, this valve stops the flow, so you need the bypass to allow the water to go back to the engine...
Now thats what I believe..... but I'm sure someone else on here can confirm or dismiss it!

ps. wish I had the time/patience/comitment/guts/etc to do what you're doing!
Fantastic job!
Where are you in Canada? (I've got friends in Calgary and Vancover Island)
ATB, Mike

[blaineuk]

Transmitter Man said:

Blaine,

Was it the SDI rack that you purchased?

What track control arms are you using?

I thought the power racks were from the MK5 Tina with only the PS pump being SDI?

Phil
420 SEAC

you could be right, the rack bolted on right but track control arms where to long so had the shortened, and as said metal pipe work on rack need altering, then it should work, i know of some one else who ised a sd1 rack so hope ot works.

still have my old rack and they are very similer in design. also my old one needs a full rebuid, including rechroming of ram.

[Brap_Brap]

V8TVR1978 said:

Mike: Do I see a little copying of an e-mail on those valve covers????
They look good and very Scottish if you ask me.

Nah, I didn't even check my email until after the first cover was done. It was simply staring me in the face as I carefully pried off the TVR badge. As for Scots, my Dad's a born Glaswegian (sp?) and my middle name is Cameron (from the clan of same name). In fact according to my grandmother every first born male has had Cameron somewhere in his name for hundreds of years, except my Dad who's a Guthrie to honour someone on my paternal side.

At least I didn't paint it in the family tartan.

Edited by Brap_Brap on Friday 10th July 01:29

[Brap_Brap]

mike.williams said:

Does anyone else have this bypass on their heater hoses at the back of the intake manifold?


Yes!
Mine has, I believe they all do. My understanding is that the heater has a simple valve afair to allow warm/hot water into the cabin. When you have the heater in the cold position, this valve stops the flow, so you need the bypass to allow the water to go back to the engine...
Now thats what I believe..... but I'm sure someone else on here can confirm or dismiss it!

ps. wish I had the time/patience/comitment/guts/etc to do what you're doing!
Fantastic job!
Where are you in Canada? (I've got friends in Calgary and Vancover Island)
ATB, Mike

I'm a Calgarian, and thanks for the info. Shouldn't the heater matrix inlet valve (ie: cable operated from dash) control that anyhow? What I mean is, lots of cars have a hot water control valve w/out needing a bypass.

Edited by Brap_Brap on Friday 10th July 01:32

[rev-erend]

Transmitter Man said:

Alan,

Are you around first thing Saturday as I like any excuse to take the car out and as long as the coffee's hot?

I'll take that pump.

I'll telephone Rimmer's tomorrow. At least I know what I'm getting when I buy 'new'.

I can imagine TVR may of used different rod ends or are they stock SDI?

Phil
420 SEAC

Yes - I'm here Saturday. Just give me a call before you leave to make sure.

[Wedg1e]

Transmitter Man said:

Blaine,

Was it the SDI rack that you purchased?

What track control arms are you using?

I thought the power racks were from the MK5 Tina with only the PS pump being SDI?

Phil
420 SEAC

My car has a Cortina rack, it uses Cortina rod ends as well. The interesting thing is that the track rods themselves are not standard, they were changed for something else that accepts the Ford ends. I think I noticed when trying to get rod ends for my Esprit that there were two main threads in use for many years by the majority of UK makers; one was the Ford standard and the other was used by much of BL stuff... which may suggest the track rods are not SD1. I presumed (although I've never checked) that the rack was Cortina but the track rods Granada as the Wedge is probably wider than a Cortina (not narrower, surely?! And the SD1 wasn't, so why use the rods off that?).
The track rods are secured (as you probably know) by screw-down cups which are pre-loaded, locked with locknuts then staked in place. Whoever modded my rack evidently couldn't be chewed with re-staking them and welded the caps and locknuts to the rack instead thus making it a bit harder whenever I need to work on it.

[grahamw48]

Cortina was always given as 5'7" wide, the Wedge as 5'8".

Probably not much in it then, depending on mirror widths.

TVR have just taken the suspension arms, steering gear and stub axles off the (massive) Corty crossmember and attached it all directly to the Wedge chassis.

Maybe differences in dimensions due to this changeover necessitated the different length track rods.

[350Matt]

When I converted my 350i to PAS I used a cortina rack

[Brap_Brap]

Today's efforts look sharp imho.

With all new shiny (re-mfg) brakes in the mail, and all hard/soft lines being recreated in beautiful stainless I figured I better tackle the remainder of my brakes, ie: the hand brake.


There's no way I could bolt this to a new rear caliper in good conscience.


A single unit polished, primed and painted. I only did one side so I could have something to compare to upon reassembly, but they are simple enough I could/should have done them both at once.


One unit done, albeit awaiting a cotter pin and new pads. It sure looks better than before! (yes the right one is backwards... for purposes of illustration)

I've got a few hours left tonight... I'm gonna go do the other side the same.

[edit] Actually no I wont. Beer and the green leafy sh*t did me in.[/edit]

Edited by Brap_Brap on Sunday 12th July 04:49

[grahamw48]

Thanks for letting us know what the grimy bits underneath look like in the light of day.

[Transmitter Man]

Mike,

Are you cleaning all those parts in a blast cabinet?

If so, what blast media are you using?

I was planning to get all my brake parts gold passivated as the prep will get rid off all the surface rust and leave them with a nice super clean finish albeit with limited corrossion protection.I'd imagine your paited finish is superior in that department.

Phil
420 SEAC

[Brap_Brap]

I just used a bench grinder with a brass wire wheel for 90% of it. The remainder I do with a much smaller wire brush on a drill. For any tiny cracks I can't get I used a rust disolving agent.

[Wedg1e]

Transmitter Man said:

Mike,

Are you cleaning all those parts in a blast cabinet?

If so, what blast media are you using?

I was planning to get all my brake parts gold passivated as the prep will get rid off all the surface rust and leave them with a nice super clean finish albeit with limited corrossion protection.I'd imagine your paited finish is superior in that department.

Phil
420 SEAC

Think he said he was doing it all with wire brushes and elbow grease

I have a blast cabinet, use mostly 80 grit AlOx with glass beads for delicate stuff or putting a nice finish on aluminium (80 grit can be a bit brutal on alloy).

From this:


to this (original balljoint still serviceable!):



Incidentally, here's the bush I removed from the lower arm. Note the cracks running along the inner sleeve! I thought there was a bit of movement on that arm...

[Brap_Brap]

Wedg1e said:

Think he said he was doing it all with wire brushes and elbow grease

Not quite. Some small things like the stuff I've been doing I've painted in order to keep the production line going, but as for things of real importance, they're all awaiting TWO coats of powder coat for $350 from the guy that ceramic coated my headers. I showed him pics of the car, he loves it, that's the price he gave me. Even the welder who came by today is working for cheaper. Everywhere I go I show the person pics of the car and say, "Sir, this is a show car and is uber rare, I expect your BEST workmanship". Every time so far they've drooled over the wedge, promised their best, and even DROPPED their normal "going rate".

Seriously though Wedg1e, do you honestly think I'd waste money on replacing perfectly good copper brake lines with stainless while scrimping paint for powder coat on the important stuff? There's not ONE single cut corner in my restoration. Do you think I'd order 4 expensive calipers when the 4 I had worked just fine? No Sir, I'm making this car BETTER than TVR ever dreamed of.

I like this little thread/project of mine. I've got some dubious nay sayers predicting piles of parts left over, (they spur me on to better things) and I've got people who back the project, even to their own expense.

I might not have the fastest wedge when I'm done, but I will have the best.

[edit] Welder came today, everything measured and tacked up, but no crap steel replaced yet. There's not a nut or bolt left in the chassis now and it is ready for sand blasting, more welding/gussets and powder coating. Unfortunately the 1.5" half shaft nuts killed the neumatic impacter, but thankfully it did get them off.[/edit]

Edited by Brap_Brap on Monday 13th July 04:36

[Brap_Brap]

I hate to say it, and I certainly mean NO insult WHATSOEVER, but that looks like st. No, I'm not taking the p1ss as I sometimes do after a day of work/beer then posting. :guilty: You've got a pitted with silica upper wishbone that you will have to then sand (to do things properly) for a smooth paint/powder finish, or paint/powder over silica without going down to bare metal. (which really matters)

For the time and effort it took you to put a "preserved juices" (if it's as greasy as mine) tvr part, blast it, sand it, paint it, I could have done it in 2/3rds the time by eliminating the sanding and just getting to bare metal.

It's just MHO, but as a mechanic for Conklin Shows [for 10 years of my life] (now defunct, then the largest amusmement ride/carnival in the world) I've done a lot of "fixing".

As I said, no offence, but in a case like that, a wheel might be quicker and just as good.... uh... better.

Edited by Brap_Brap on Monday 13th July 04:49

Edited by Brap_Brap on Monday 13th July 04:51

[V8TVR1978]

Brap_Brap said:

Wedg1e said:

Think he said he was doing it all with wire brushes and elbow grease

Not quite. Some small things like the stuff I've been doing I've painted in order to keep the production line going, but as for things of real importance, they're all awaiting TWO coats of powder coat for $350 from the guy that ceramic coated my headers. I showed him pics of the car, he loves it, that's the price he gave me. Even the welder who came by today is working for cheaper. Everywhere I go I show the person pics of the car and say, "Sir, this is a show car and is uber rare, I expect your BEST workmanship". Every time so far they've drooled over the wedge, promised their best, and even DROPPED their normal "going rate".

Seriously though Wedg1e, do you honestly think I'd waste money on replacing perfectly good copper brake lines with stainless while scrimping paint for powder coat on the important stuff? There's not ONE single cut corner in my restoration. Do you think I'd order 4 expensive calipers when the 4 I had worked just fine? No Sir, I'm making this car BETTER than TVR ever dreamed of.

I like this little thread/project of mine. I've got some dubious nay sayers
predicting piles of parts left over, (they spur me on to better things) and I've got people who back the project, even to their own expense.

I might not have the fastest wedge when I'm done, but I will have the best.

[edit] Welder came today, everything measured and tacked up, but no crap steel replaced yet. There's not a nut or bolt left in the chassis now and it is ready for sand blasting, more welding/gussets and powder coating. Unfortunately the 1.5" half shaft nuts killed the neumatic impacter, but thankfully it did get them off.[/edit]

Mike: Your comment above " I've got some dubious nay sayers predicting piles of parts left over" wasn't pointed at me cause I said in a previous post that I had a bag of nuts, bolts, and screws that I might plant in the garage just before your finished just to see what type of reaction I could get when you found them. Oh yea there was that other post about a pocket of nuts, bolts, and screws when you first started. I have stood behind you 99.999999999 % and that is a bigger % than when I stand behind my own employees. But then you are a fellow TVR owner and they aren't. Good to see that you got the welder going and NO I didn't move or adjust your straps when I was over.Will stop by soon but with a different truck again just to confuse you. Good Luck with things.


PS: How come people give you that comment when you show them pics or when they come around????? All I get is "That a Triumph????"

[Brap_Brap]

V8TVR1978 said:

Will stop by soon but with a different truck again just to confuse you. Good Luck with things.


PS: How come people give you that comment when you show them pics or when they come around????? All I get is "That a Triumph????"

I don't know why. *shrug* It's probably because your cars share the same body style as a GT6.

I don't suppose you've got a 1 ton flatdeck? I'm just thinking of ways to get it to Consolidated Compressor for blasting.

[V8TVR1978]

Brap_Brap said:

V8TVR1978 said:

Will stop by soon but with a different truck again just to confuse you. Good Luck with things.


PS: How come people give you that comment when you show them pics or when they come around????? All I get is "That a Triumph????"

I don't know why. *shrug* It's probably because your cars share the same body style as a GT6.

I don't suppose you've got a 1 ton flatdeck? I'm just thinking of ways to get it to Consolidated Compressor for blasting.

Is Consolidated Com. up by Pick A Part(Barlow/Glenmore)???? Hopefully my trailer is finished in another week or two and I do have the Bobcat Unit.

[Wedg1e]

Brap_Brap said:

Seriously though Wedg1e, do you honestly think I'd waste money on replacing perfectly good copper brake lines with stainless while scrimping paint for powder coat on the important stuff? There's not ONE single cut corner in my restoration. Do you think I'd order 4 expensive calipers when the 4 I had worked just fine? No Sir, I'm making this car BETTER than TVR ever dreamed of.

Nope, you've lost me. Did I say or imply that you were cutting corners? To me, the 'wire brush and elbow grease' method is the fanatical, perfectionist way. Some, like me, aren't that bothered. If sandblasting gets the rust off and lets me see the basic structure is sound, that's fine. I'll slap some paint on (or maybe powdercoat, I also have that facility in my home workshop ), replace the bits that wear and the car's back in action.
I'm no longer under any illusion that a TVR wedge is ever going to be a valuable asset so I spend as little cash (thought plenty of time, like yourself) as possible to get it how I want it. In 9 years of ownership the only time I've paid someone else to work on my 390 was when I had a rebore and crank regrind. Everything else I've done myself.