My nightmare... errr restoration thread.
Discussion
Brap_Brap said:
I hate to say it, and I certainly mean NO insult WHATSOEVER, but that looks like s
t. No, I'm not taking the p1ss as I sometimes do after a day of work/beer then posting. :guilty: You've got a pitted with silica upper wishbone that you will have to then sand (to do things properly) for a smooth paint/powder finish, or paint/powder over silica without going down to bare metal. (which really matters)
For the time and effort it took you to put a "preserved juices" (if it's as greasy as mine) tvr part, blast it, sand it, paint it, I could have done it in 2/3rds the time by eliminating the sanding and just getting to bare metal.
It's just MHO, but as a mechanic for Conklin Shows [for 10 years of my life] (now defunct, then the largest amusmement ride/carnival in the world) I've done a lot of "fixing".
As I said, no offence, but in a case like that, a wheel might be quicker and just as good.... uh... better.
...and when you've had your chassis blasted, I take it you'll meticulously sand it back to a perfect finish before you powdercoat it, or will you leave it to the tender mercies of the powdercoat boys? Chassis, suspension... they're underneath, for Christ's sake. If I want to see my face I'll buy a mirror. If I was THAT pedantic, I'd buy some new wishbones and powdercoat them from the start. I'm not, so I won't. The main thing is that there's plenty of structural rigidity left in the part despite the best efforts of 22 years of British weather.t. No, I'm not taking the p1ss as I sometimes do after a day of work/beer then posting. :guilty: You've got a pitted with silica upper wishbone that you will have to then sand (to do things properly) for a smooth paint/powder finish, or paint/powder over silica without going down to bare metal. (which really matters)For the time and effort it took you to put a "preserved juices" (if it's as greasy as mine) tvr part, blast it, sand it, paint it, I could have done it in 2/3rds the time by eliminating the sanding and just getting to bare metal.
It's just MHO, but as a mechanic for Conklin Shows [for 10 years of my life] (now defunct, then the largest amusmement ride/carnival in the world) I've done a lot of "fixing".
As I said, no offence, but in a case like that, a wheel might be quicker and just as good.... uh... better.
As for the time and effort, about 20 mins in the sandblaster. Can your brass brush get inside those enclosed sections? Thought not.
Still don't see why you think I've implied you're doing a poor job...
Edit: oh, and I use Aluminium Oxide, nothing silica about it.
Edited by Wedg1e on Monday 13th July 18:22
...and when you've had your chassis blasted, I take it you'll meticulously sand it back to a perfect finish before you powdercoat it, or will you leave it to the tender mercies of the powdercoat boys?
I'll spend an hour or two on it for sure. Meticulous, no, smooth, yes.
Chassis, suspension... they're underneath, for Christ's sake. If I want to see my face I'll buy a mirror. If I was THAT pedantic, I'd buy some new wishbones and powdercoat them from the start.
It's got nothing to do with appearance and everything to do with the quality of the job.
As for the time and effort, about 20 mins in the sandblaster. Can your brass brush get inside those enclosed sections? Thought not.
I've got wire brushes as small as 1/8". I can get almost anywhere but where I can't a little muriatc acid works wonders.
Still don't see why you think I've implied you're doing a poor job..
I never said or implied you did. I should have stated things a little more clearly, so I'll try rephrasing things.
I know that some people had practically written off my car when I stupidly lifted it so high it darned near crashed through the garage wall.
People have joked about spare bits not going back on the car etc. Wayne joked about my Scottish ie: cheap valve cover job. Things like that make me work harder at the car, and that is all I meant. Honestly, it really was all I meant.
Edit: oh, and I use Aluminium Oxide, nothing silica about it.
I thought I read Alox and glass?
I'm no longer under any illusion that a TVR wedge is ever going to be a valuable asset
They already are valuable. I paid the equivalent to $13,500 for my car not incl. shipping etc. I could look through the AutoTrader mag here and I'd be hard pressed to find a 22 y/o survivor car selling for that much. Any other 20+ y/o car I've ever bought I paid $500 or less for.
FWIW Wayne's had one of his tiv's appraised at $100K although I think he might get $50k at best. I asked him if my car could fetch $40k if put back to showroom condition. His answer was "easily".
I'll spend an hour or two on it for sure. Meticulous, no, smooth, yes.
Chassis, suspension... they're underneath, for Christ's sake. If I want to see my face I'll buy a mirror. If I was THAT pedantic, I'd buy some new wishbones and powdercoat them from the start.
It's got nothing to do with appearance and everything to do with the quality of the job.
As for the time and effort, about 20 mins in the sandblaster. Can your brass brush get inside those enclosed sections? Thought not.
I've got wire brushes as small as 1/8". I can get almost anywhere but where I can't a little muriatc acid works wonders.
Still don't see why you think I've implied you're doing a poor job..
I never said or implied you did. I should have stated things a little more clearly, so I'll try rephrasing things.
I know that some people had practically written off my car when I stupidly lifted it so high it darned near crashed through the garage wall.
People have joked about spare bits not going back on the car etc. Wayne joked about my Scottish ie: cheap valve cover job. Things like that make me work harder at the car, and that is all I meant. Honestly, it really was all I meant.Edit: oh, and I use Aluminium Oxide, nothing silica about it.
I thought I read Alox and glass?
I'm no longer under any illusion that a TVR wedge is ever going to be a valuable asset
They already are valuable. I paid the equivalent to $13,500 for my car not incl. shipping etc. I could look through the AutoTrader mag here and I'd be hard pressed to find a 22 y/o survivor car selling for that much. Any other 20+ y/o car I've ever bought I paid $500 or less for.
FWIW Wayne's had one of his tiv's appraised at $100K although I think he might get $50k at best. I asked him if my car could fetch $40k if put back to showroom condition. His answer was "easily".
Edited by Brap_Brap on Monday 13th July 18:59
V8TVR1978 said:
Is Consolidated Com. up by Pick A Part(Barlow/Glenmore)???? Hopefully my trailer is finished in another week or two and I do have the Bobcat Unit.
Yes, but it's not the blast pit you can see from the boneyard. It's S of 90th.Could you help me get it there this week maybe? Wednesday, Friday or Saturday work around my work schedule.
Edited by Brap_Brap on Monday 13th July 19:37
Brap_Brap said:
[
Edit: oh, and I use Aluminium Oxide, nothing silica about it.
I thought I read Alox and glass?
You did. I didn't say I used glass on the wishbone though. AlOx is not a silicate as far as I know.Edit: oh, and I use Aluminium Oxide, nothing silica about it.
I thought I read Alox and glass?
I didn't particularly want to get into a war of words with you. We all have our ideas of what constitutes value in our cars; if you think you need to devote time and cash to producing something that TVR couldn't be bothered to then who's to stop you? A bit of the banter probably hides a smattering of jealousy; we'd all like a show car but not many of us want to stop driving them long enough to achieve it.
Value, ultimately, is in the eye of the purchaser: you can only sell anything for the price someone is willing to pay. Personally I think you have a distinctly average 390SE that is in typical condition for its age. Mine's the same. Most of them are. There will almost certainly be further 'horrors' in store for you; VERY few wedges are as good as their owners would have you believe.
Good luck with it.
>> we'd all like a show car but not many of us want to stop driving them long enough to achieve it.
Too bloody right! When I bought the 400SX most of the 'dirt' on it was actually bits of polish left behind by the owner one before the seller. That chap owned it for 10 years and did 500 miles.
Mow I've owned it for 3+ years and done 20k miles, it is no longer a showroom car, and hasn't been for the past 3 years, but what the hell, I've been driving and enjoying it.
Mike, I just hope that you'll be able to do the same once you've finished this Hereculean effort - drive it and enjoy it again.
Too bloody right! When I bought the 400SX most of the 'dirt' on it was actually bits of polish left behind by the owner one before the seller. That chap owned it for 10 years and did 500 miles.
Mow I've owned it for 3+ years and done 20k miles, it is no longer a showroom car, and hasn't been for the past 3 years, but what the hell, I've been driving and enjoying it.
Mike, I just hope that you'll be able to do the same once you've finished this Hereculean effort - drive it and enjoy it again.
Wedg1e said:
I didn't particularly want to get into a war of words with you.
Value, ultimately, is in the eye of the purchaser: you can only sell anything for the price someone is willing to pay. Personally I think you have a distinctly average 390SE that is in typical condition for its age. Mine's the same. Most of them are. There will almost certainly be further 'horrors' in store for you; VERY few wedges are as good as their owners would have you believe.
Good luck with it.
Me neither.Value, ultimately, is in the eye of the purchaser: you can only sell anything for the price someone is willing to pay. Personally I think you have a distinctly average 390SE that is in typical condition for its age. Mine's the same. Most of them are. There will almost certainly be further 'horrors' in store for you; VERY few wedges are as good as their owners would have you believe.
Good luck with it.
You and right about value in the eye of the beholder but there's always the marketplace to be taken in as a factor. If I did all this work in England I'd be lucky to get the 5250 quid I paid for it. Judging by the wedge sale ads right now, I wouldn't. Then again wedges are so common in England a "wedge spotted" thread exists. If a wedge in the UK is as rare as hen's teeth, pterodactyl teeth would be the situation here.
Have you ever seen the Barrett Jackson car auction on TV? It's full of guys with way more money than brains who pay small fortunes for cars that were "stamped out" in the tens or hundreds of thousands. Surely a hand crafted super rare car fully restored can fetch a good price. Here a much more common TR6 in mint condition sells for $25k quite regularly.
Thanks.
Brap_Brap said:
...and when you've had your chassis blasted, I take it you'll meticulously sand it back to a perfect finish before you powdercoat it, or will you leave it to the tender mercies of the powdercoat boys?
I'll spend an hour or two on it for sure. Meticulous, no, smooth, yes.
Chassis, suspension... they're underneath, for Christ's sake. If I want to see my face I'll buy a mirror. If I was THAT pedantic, I'd buy some new wishbones and powdercoat them from the start.
It's got nothing to do with appearance and everything to do with the quality of the job.
As for the time and effort, about 20 mins in the sandblaster. Can your brass brush get inside those enclosed sections? Thought not.
I've got wire brushes as small as 1/8". I can get almost anywhere but where I can't a little muriatc acid works wonders.
Still don't see why you think I've implied you're doing a poor job..
I never said or implied you did. I should have stated things a little more clearly, so I'll try rephrasing things.
I know that some people had practically written off my car when I stupidly lifted it so high it darned near crashed through the garage wall. People have joked about spare bits not going back on the car etc. Wayne joked about my Scottish ie: cheap valve cover job. Things like that make me work harder at the car, and that is all I meant. Honestly, it really was all I meant.
Edit: oh, and I use Aluminium Oxide, nothing silica about it.
I thought I read Alox and glass?
I'm no longer under any illusion that a TVR wedge is ever going to be a valuable asset
They already are valuable. I paid the equivalent to $13,500 for my car not incl. shipping etc. I could look through the AutoTrader mag here and I'd be hard pressed to find a 22 y/o survivor car selling for that much. Any other 20+ y/o car I've ever bought I paid $500 or less for.
FWIW Wayne's had one of his tiv's appraised at $100K although I think he might get $50k at best. I asked him if my car could fetch $40k if put back to showroom condition. His answer was "easily".
Yes I did comment in a post that Mike's valve covers did look like they had a Scottish touch to them. Since we are both on this side of the pond I wanted to express my acceptance of the job Mike was doing with his car without offending every Scotchman that reads these posts. There was a hidden meaning of him doing the job himself and being cost conscience ( not cheap and cutting corners, which he isn't ). I have been pulling on Mike's chain at times but I respect what he is doing by himself and hope he allows me access to his garage to follow the complete resto. ( Even though he is probably watching out of the corner of his eye to make sure I don't accidently leave those spare nuts, bolts and screws in the garage but then nobody has offered me a bribe YET. ) I'll spend an hour or two on it for sure. Meticulous, no, smooth, yes.
Chassis, suspension... they're underneath, for Christ's sake. If I want to see my face I'll buy a mirror. If I was THAT pedantic, I'd buy some new wishbones and powdercoat them from the start.
It's got nothing to do with appearance and everything to do with the quality of the job.
As for the time and effort, about 20 mins in the sandblaster. Can your brass brush get inside those enclosed sections? Thought not.
I've got wire brushes as small as 1/8". I can get almost anywhere but where I can't a little muriatc acid works wonders.
Still don't see why you think I've implied you're doing a poor job..
I never said or implied you did. I should have stated things a little more clearly, so I'll try rephrasing things.
I know that some people had practically written off my car when I stupidly lifted it so high it darned near crashed through the garage wall.
People have joked about spare bits not going back on the car etc. Wayne joked about my Scottish ie: cheap valve cover job. Things like that make me work harder at the car, and that is all I meant. Honestly, it really was all I meant.Edit: oh, and I use Aluminium Oxide, nothing silica about it.
I thought I read Alox and glass?
I'm no longer under any illusion that a TVR wedge is ever going to be a valuable asset
They already are valuable. I paid the equivalent to $13,500 for my car not incl. shipping etc. I could look through the AutoTrader mag here and I'd be hard pressed to find a 22 y/o survivor car selling for that much. Any other 20+ y/o car I've ever bought I paid $500 or less for.
FWIW Wayne's had one of his tiv's appraised at $100K although I think he might get $50k at best. I asked him if my car could fetch $40k if put back to showroom condition. His answer was "easily".
Edited by Brap_Brap on Monday 13th July 18:59
Mike can confirm prices of TVRs over here and they are just out of line. Basicly if you double prices of the UK, then you are getting close. My 78 Taimar has ben appraised at over $100,000 ( 75,000 pounds????Mike???) and I told Mike that I might get half of that if I ever wanted to sell it and found a TVR nut over here with lots of dollars and fewer cents. I can see Mike's car to have an appraisal of $40,000+ if he keeps going the way that he has to this point. But everyone has to remember that the appraisals are just used for replacement costs. Our cars are worth what the appraisals say but the cars TRUE value is what a person is willing to pay for said car at the time of sale. Those prices could change 50% up or down in a matter of weeks. To me, it is not the value of the car but how much you appreciate and enjoy it. If it wasn't my love of the TVR marque, then I would have bought a Massy, Ferrari, Bentley, Lambo or a Porsha but they are getting to be too common around here and I'm not going through a Mid Life Crisis. Hopefully Mike will let me say this comment on his behalf also, " We just love our TVRs." And when my 2 girls finally have my 3 TVRs in their possession, I hope they enjoy them as much as I do.
Mike, my trailer is available later in the week to transport your car to the sandblasters
but Tuesday isn't a good day. Let me know when you are working this week and let me know when the welder will have his stuff done and we can haul it away. I just need to let Clive down the street know when I am taking my trailer out of his driveway so he doesn't have it blocked in as he works nights. Might have to bring my Dad along with us as he is in Edmonton at the moment and will stay a couple of days with us before he goes home. Talk to you later and may just pop by.
Brap_Brap said:
Wedg1e said:
I didn't particularly want to get into a war of words with you.
Value, ultimately, is in the eye of the purchaser: you can only sell anything for the price someone is willing to pay. Personally I think you have a distinctly average 390SE that is in typical condition for its age. Mine's the same. Most of them are. There will almost certainly be further 'horrors' in store for you; VERY few wedges are as good as their owners would have you believe.
Good luck with it.
Me neither.Value, ultimately, is in the eye of the purchaser: you can only sell anything for the price someone is willing to pay. Personally I think you have a distinctly average 390SE that is in typical condition for its age. Mine's the same. Most of them are. There will almost certainly be further 'horrors' in store for you; VERY few wedges are as good as their owners would have you believe.
Good luck with it.
You and right about value in the eye of the beholder but there's always the marketplace to be taken in as a factor. If I did all this work in England I'd be lucky to get the 5250 quid I paid for it. Judging by the wedge sale ads right now, I wouldn't. Then again wedges are so common in England a "wedge spotted" thread exists. If a wedge in the UK is as rare as hen's teeth, pterodactyl teeth would be the situation here.
Have you ever seen the Barrett Jackson car auction on TV? It's full of guys with way more money than brains who pay small fortunes for cars that were "stamped out" in the tens or hundreds of thousands. Surely a hand crafted super rare car fully restored can fetch a good price. Here a much more common TR6 in mint condition sells for $25k quite regularly.
Thanks.
V8TVR1978 said:
Mike: The guy who has the other M in Calgary is trying to sell his TR6 and had an ad at Todds. Wants 20,000 and I don't think it is mint but it is worth 20,000 to the right buyer.
Exactly.I was at Todd's shop the other day and saw that advert on the wall. If he holds out he'll get his asking price. It's a nice looking car and I wish it was in my stable.
Did you see the caged Sunbeam Tiger racer? I'd love to go for a spin in that!
[edit]Hopefully Mike will let me say this comment on his behalf also, " We just love our TVRs."
I do like the marque, it's history and whatnot, but TBH it is a bit of a love/hate relationship ATM. For example, the VERY LAST BOLT AND NUT I'd have to undo on the car was my lower diff to subframe bolt. It goes through a steel sleeved bushing and the sleeve was fused to the bolt. I could not twist it out, I could not drift it out, it wouldn't budge. I had to get out a thin cutoff disk and cut it. The very last bloody nut and bolt on the car and it has to be an impossibility.
I swear the car has ears. It's heard all the bad things I've ever said about it and saved it up for today. "Ha ha, who's got the last laugh now Mike?"
At the Stanley Park show in 07 I overheard a woman with an MG say "never speak bad about your brit car infront of it, it will remember that comment and let you down when you least expect it". LOL My wedge has me believing that supersitition now.
Edited by Brap_Brap on Tuesday 14th July 02:22
Mike
Just a samll piece of advice the brass/ c shaped / claw like spring than goes between the two arms on the handbrake is notorious for going soft over the years and generally making the handbrake ineffective.
As its an '86 Jaguar XJS unit you should be able to find a new replacement over there
I know some would argue that the handbrake has always been rubbish I found with careful greasing of the adjuster mech and a new spring it worked reasonably well.
Well good enough to hold the car on a hill without putting it in gear.
Just a samll piece of advice the brass/ c shaped / claw like spring than goes between the two arms on the handbrake is notorious for going soft over the years and generally making the handbrake ineffective.
As its an '86 Jaguar XJS unit you should be able to find a new replacement over there
I know some would argue that the handbrake has always been rubbish I found with careful greasing of the adjuster mech and a new spring it worked reasonably well.
Well good enough to hold the car on a hill without putting it in gear.
Mike,
Not sure at what stage you're at with the chassis but I had a good look over a recently blast cleaned 450SE chassis this past weekend.
The engineers doing the resto told me about, and then showed me the rather poor quality welding and the way (poor at best) the factory joined multiple tubes together. It opened my eyes!
I was also unaware that some of the chassis was made using 'seamed' tubing. Definite room for improvement.
Phil
420 SEAC
Not sure at what stage you're at with the chassis but I had a good look over a recently blast cleaned 450SE chassis this past weekend.
The engineers doing the resto told me about, and then showed me the rather poor quality welding and the way (poor at best) the factory joined multiple tubes together. It opened my eyes!
I was also unaware that some of the chassis was made using 'seamed' tubing. Definite room for improvement.
Phil
420 SEAC
350Matt said:
Mike
Just a samll piece of advice the brass/ c shaped / claw like spring than goes between the two arms on the handbrake is notorious for going soft over the years and generally making the handbrake ineffective.
As its an '86 Jaguar XJS unit you should be able to find a new replacement over there
I know some would argue that the handbrake has always been rubbish I found with careful greasing of the adjuster mech and a new spring it worked reasonably well.
Well good enough to hold the car on a hill without putting it in gear.
Already located and ordered. Just a samll piece of advice the brass/ c shaped / claw like spring than goes between the two arms on the handbrake is notorious for going soft over the years and generally making the handbrake ineffective.
As its an '86 Jaguar XJS unit you should be able to find a new replacement over there
I know some would argue that the handbrake has always been rubbish I found with careful greasing of the adjuster mech and a new spring it worked reasonably well.
Well good enough to hold the car on a hill without putting it in gear.
http://www.britishparts.co.uk/.sc/ms/dd/Jaguar%20X...
[edit] FWIW that piece can ONLY act as a return spring, just look at it. Any braking via handbrake is done by the cable and nothing else. To set the record straightl.[/edit]
Edited by Brap_Brap on Wednesday 15th July 04:48
Transmitter Man said:
The engineers doing the resto told me about, and then showed me the rather poor quality welding and the way (poor at best) the factory joined multiple tubes together. It opened my eyes!
I was also unaware that some of the chassis was made using 'seamed' tubing. Definite room for improvement.
Phil
420 SEAC
Some of the multi-angles is better than you think. It's likely due to my car body almost ripping my outriggers off, but some of that steel was better exposed once the outriggers got ripped off. I was also unaware that some of the chassis was made using 'seamed' tubing. Definite room for improvement.
Phil
420 SEAC
The back portion where the diff subframe meets the chassis is TWO tubes thick. I could see it plainly with my own two eyes - a tube within a tube. I asked my welder (boiler maker {3000 psi welds etc} certified and more) about this tube within a tube and he told me it was to heat sink the overlaying steel as to not burn holes through it. IOW, welding so many joints in one small area is likely to burn holes, but the tubing inside the tubing was a heat sink protector. So, while TVR might have had stty welders, their engineering for it was good.As for seamed tubes, I've seen none on mine.... TVR winds of change?
Yes, well I hope they missed my car with that seamed tubing.
We shall see this coming winter.
New wood vaneer by the end of next week
Went to the monthly PH Ace Cafe meet on Monday: http://www.ace-cafe-london.com/Cars.aspx
With a wide array of machinery around me:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Only wedge there - as normal
Phil
420 SEAC
We shall see this coming winter.
New wood vaneer by the end of next week
Went to the monthly PH Ace Cafe meet on Monday: http://www.ace-cafe-london.com/Cars.aspx
With a wide array of machinery around me:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Only wedge there - as normal
Phil
420 SEAC
Brap_Brap said:
Transmitter Man said:
Only wedge there - as normal
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