Back Tracking.....
Discussion
Thing is once you've managed to start it (after a long time) it is pretty much impossible to restart when warm which is why I was gonna switch to checking expected voltages/resistences to ECU.
OK, so I will plug cold start back in (it surely doesn't need any more petrol!) and check header temps. Laser temp gun ordered - building up nice collection of tool things!
OK, so I will plug cold start back in (it surely doesn't need any more petrol!) and check header temps. Laser temp gun ordered - building up nice collection of tool things!
Well I dunno what the fuel pressure should be - general consensus seemed to be flip the AFM flap to trigger the pump and set to 38psi which is what I did.
50psi I'm not sure would run as it was already just shy of 4% CO at idle when it was running
previously with no available adjustment left on the afm! (this was with TPS set at .3 volts - I'm sure it had been set to 0 volt previously to get the idle CO down)
Anyway - park that for time being as it can be set on rollers if it ever runs properly again, lol!
Cheers Bobby - yeah that makes mine look a bit suspect doesn't it!
I have Laser thermometer now so I will do fuel line test with resistor pack out first to confirm if leak at injectors and then get it started and report back header temps...
Thanks for all help and suggestions so far
50psi I'm not sure would run as it was already just shy of 4% CO at idle when it was running
previously with no available adjustment left on the afm! (this was with TPS set at .3 volts - I'm sure it had been set to 0 volt previously to get the idle CO down)
Anyway - park that for time being as it can be set on rollers if it ever runs properly again, lol!
Cheers Bobby - yeah that makes mine look a bit suspect doesn't it!
I have Laser thermometer now so I will do fuel line test with resistor pack out first to confirm if leak at injectors and then get it started and report back header temps...
Thanks for all help and suggestions so far
Edited by smash on Saturday 16th August 18:20
Edited by smash on Saturday 16th August 18:21
Leaky Injectors Test
1. Wedged the AFM open turned ignition on to prime fuel pump and pressurise system.
2. I disconnected the resistor pack
3. I left it about 5 minutes and then tried to start
4. It started and ran for a second then cut out.
I then repeated test and it DID NOT fire at all
I'm guessing the reason it started first time is due to leak down test in previous post possibly leaving fuel in system.
Header Temperatures
1. Reconnected resistor pack and the car started frst time and settled into a high idle around 1800rpm
2. After a few minutes the header temps were all consistently 390/400 c
3. As the car got to temperature and came down to 1200 rpm it suddenly got into difficulty.
4. The idle dropped to below 900 rpm and needed regular throttle tweakingto keep running.
5. At this point all headers were 400 odd degrees APART FROM NUMBER 5 which showed 182c.
6. Removing plug lead on number 5 did not affect idle.
Why did number 5 just cut out?
The engine then cut out and I went to restart but relay click only in start position and voltmeter reading low.
Volts/ignition switch
Following on from above
This video shows pretty well the strange behaviour - all I was doing was turning the ignition key.
Watch Battery light whose brightness mirrors the voltmeter readings. Starter motor only attempts to kick in at end.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EMxyi_hFlRA&li...
Could this be 'key' (see what I did there) to strange running?
I'm carrying on with fault finding but gonna list the car on ebay tonight for offers to see if there's any interest as I don't want it to sit through another winter seeing as how that seemed to cause loads of issues first time round and I'm ready to take the inevitable hit now.
1. Wedged the AFM open turned ignition on to prime fuel pump and pressurise system.
2. I disconnected the resistor pack
3. I left it about 5 minutes and then tried to start
4. It started and ran for a second then cut out.
I then repeated test and it DID NOT fire at all
I'm guessing the reason it started first time is due to leak down test in previous post possibly leaving fuel in system.
Header Temperatures
1. Reconnected resistor pack and the car started frst time and settled into a high idle around 1800rpm
2. After a few minutes the header temps were all consistently 390/400 c
3. As the car got to temperature and came down to 1200 rpm it suddenly got into difficulty.
4. The idle dropped to below 900 rpm and needed regular throttle tweakingto keep running.
5. At this point all headers were 400 odd degrees APART FROM NUMBER 5 which showed 182c.
6. Removing plug lead on number 5 did not affect idle.
Why did number 5 just cut out?
The engine then cut out and I went to restart but relay click only in start position and voltmeter reading low.
Volts/ignition switch
Following on from above
This video shows pretty well the strange behaviour - all I was doing was turning the ignition key.
Watch Battery light whose brightness mirrors the voltmeter readings. Starter motor only attempts to kick in at end.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EMxyi_hFlRA&li...
Could this be 'key' (see what I did there) to strange running?
I'm carrying on with fault finding but gonna list the car on ebay tonight for offers to see if there's any interest as I don't want it to sit through another winter seeing as how that seemed to cause loads of issues first time round and I'm ready to take the inevitable hit now.
Edited by smash on Sunday 17th August 13:02
f
k me! Why is everything on these cars so fking difficult - argh!
New ignition switch arrived - Rover SD1 s2 - clearly the same switch, same number of wires just connected differently and with different plug. I foolishly assumed that TVR wouldn't have messed with the loom on a stock part like that but apparently they must have.
I did check images of TR7 switch before and wasn't that - too few wires, which left SD1 S1 or S2 - S1 too few wires, S2 looked right but just needs 'tweeking' apparently...do I not like this fking car!!!
"And relax...."
k me! Why is everything on these cars so fking difficult - argh!New ignition switch arrived - Rover SD1 s2 - clearly the same switch, same number of wires just connected differently and with different plug. I foolishly assumed that TVR wouldn't have messed with the loom on a stock part like that but apparently they must have.
I did check images of TR7 switch before and wasn't that - too few wires, which left SD1 S1 or S2 - S1 too few wires, S2 looked right but just needs 'tweeking' apparently...do I not like this f
king car!!!"And relax...."
Inspired by Mr Maston I have set about removing the old ignition switch and swapping the loom onto the new one then refitting.
All relatively painless and I now have an ignition switch with a very positive click and feel.
So reconnect battery and several turns to position one reveal no strange Volt gauge behaviour. So far so good.
Crank the engine and it started immediately.
After 30 seconds it died however and required a helluva lot of cranking to restart. this proved that the ignition switch appears to have cured the starter motor cutting out problem. This is also good.
My little fettling spark indicators were flashing away merrily so as previously thought this is down to fueling.
After a fair bit of cranking started it with throttle cracked partially open and seemed happy enough settling into fast idle but then rain stopped play for today.
Next stop run up and monitor header temps again and check where the CO is at with a borrowed Gunsons analyser.
All relatively painless and I now have an ignition switch with a very positive click and feel.
So reconnect battery and several turns to position one reveal no strange Volt gauge behaviour. So far so good.
Crank the engine and it started immediately.
After 30 seconds it died however and required a helluva lot of cranking to restart. this proved that the ignition switch appears to have cured the starter motor cutting out problem. This is also good.
My little fettling spark indicators were flashing away merrily so as previously thought this is down to fueling.
After a fair bit of cranking started it with throttle cracked partially open and seemed happy enough settling into fast idle but then rain stopped play for today.
Next stop run up and monitor header temps again and check where the CO is at with a borrowed Gunsons analyser.
Hi mate - sorry should've been clearer when I said rain stopped play what I meant was I turned the engine off - it was idling quite happily in fast idle mode as it was warming up. Restarting is the problem very likely due to running very rich (as evidenced last time I checked with wideband lambda)
There is a gauge permanently plumbed in on the cold start feed line (used it for the leak test previously and to set up max pressure when it all kicked off a bit about 38psi, 44psi or 48psi or whatever it was, lol!) and no fluctuations noticed apart from usual vaccuum induced on the FPR.
There is a gauge permanently plumbed in on the cold start feed line (used it for the leak test previously and to set up max pressure when it all kicked off a bit about 38psi, 44psi or 48psi or whatever it was, lol!) and no fluctuations noticed apart from usual vaccuum induced on the FPR.
@Zig - I will double check what's happenign with fuel pressure - actually you could do me a favour and tell me what your gauge shows at idle and when holding at say 4k and also reving, just so I know my behaviour is same or not.
@Adam - yeah, was never convinced about the resoldering tbh although I did resolder earlier in the year, wouldn't be surprised if ECU was upset by it bearing in mind you've got 30 year caps and resistors just waiting to change their values.
@Wedg1e - will do. Does it matter which injectors? say maybe remove 8 and 4 and 3 and 7 so they're spaced a bit?
@Adam - yeah, was never convinced about the resoldering tbh although I did resolder earlier in the year, wouldn't be surprised if ECU was upset by it bearing in mind you've got 30 year caps and resistors just waiting to change their values.
@Wedg1e - will do. Does it matter which injectors? say maybe remove 8 and 4 and 3 and 7 so they're spaced a bit?
mrzigazaga said:
Hi mate...For some reason my adjustable FPR has started to play up!..I hope its not the pump failing again.
As far as i can see the fuel pressure at idle is 27psi..I can't see it at 4000rpm without a second pair of eyes but i have set the WOT to 38psi....I still have the ECU and AFM that you borrowed off of Stu...I haven't seen him yet to give it back so if its okay with him i can bring it to the Diner tomorrow?...Ziga
yes please if Stu's OK with that but can't get down today but can do next weekend if that's OK. Will bring the Alpine as wellAs far as i can see the fuel pressure at idle is 27psi..I can't see it at 4000rpm without a second pair of eyes but i have set the WOT to 38psi....I still have the ECU and AFM that you borrowed off of Stu...I haven't seen him yet to give it back so if its okay with him i can bring it to the Diner tomorrow?...Ziga
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