350i running far far too rich after clutch replacement
Discussion
Wedg1e said:
Another test, if the car will start, is to have someone sit in the passenger seat and repeatedly hit the ECU with a shoe (or similar 
) - if you have a poor solder joint the impact will often remake the connection, even if briefly, and you can often hear the engine note change as it does so. Happened to me, ironically, at one of the Wedgefests a few years back. I gave it a good shoeing until the connection remade and the car got me the 200 miles home without further incident. Now I take a soldering iron 
) - if you have a poor solder joint the impact will often remake the connection, even if briefly, and you can often hear the engine note change as it does so. Happened to me, ironically, at one of the Wedgefests a few years back. I gave it a good shoeing until the connection remade and the car got me the 200 miles home without further incident. Now I take a soldering iron 
I like that. Well done!Wedg1e said:
At the last count I had about a dozen spare ECUs (including 390, 3.9 Rangey and supercharged 350), I can match another to yours if necessary.
You are a man after my own heart. 
Parts are only a hassle and expensive when you need them. Best to buy them before that.+8 (who also takes a soldering iron)
Edited by plushuit on Thursday 29th December 20:20
Wedg1e said:
Worst case scenario, send the ECU up to me and I'll give it the once-over and sort as necessary - and I won't even charge you (apart from the return postage),
At the last count I had about a dozen spare ECUs (including 390, 3.9 Rangey and supercharged 350), I can match another to yours if necessary.
Thank you very much, appreciate it.At the last count I had about a dozen spare ECUs (including 390, 3.9 Rangey and supercharged 350), I can match another to yours if necessary.
My ecu is a Lucas 4CU Fuel Control Unit.
Do you have a spare that I could try, I will of course pay postage by paypal etc.?
Kind Regards
Ian
Wedg1e said:
You need one of these, you do:
Allows you to measure all the relevant voltages and currents while the engine's running and inject simulated values for the throttle pot and coolant temperature sensor. You can diagnose ECU defects, non-firing injectors, check the airflow meter flap spring is set correctly etc etc. - it even tells you if the fault is ignition rather than fuel-related.
Look, they're multiplying... Allows you to measure all the relevant voltages and currents while the engine's running and inject simulated values for the throttle pot and coolant temperature sensor. You can diagnose ECU defects, non-firing injectors, check the airflow meter flap spring is set correctly etc etc. - it even tells you if the fault is ignition rather than fuel-related.
honestjohntoo said:
If you literally cannot see the two earth ring connectors (even from below the car looking upwards, which is dead easy) that are supposed to be on stud(s)fixed into the block behind and below the rear of the LEFT HAND rocker cover, then one must only assume that it has not been reconnected correctly after the clutch was repaired.
Are the studs there?
Perhaps on a TVR they connect elsewhere to the engine block, but I cannot work out why?
These two SD1 drawings depict the whole of the Efi loom which should be similar to yours, and the two ringed earth connectors are clearly shown.
The two BW wires go to the coolant temp sensor and to pin 35 of the ECU multiplug.
honestjohntoo, have you got a key to what the various colours of the wires are please ?Are the studs there?
Perhaps on a TVR they connect elsewhere to the engine block, but I cannot work out why?
These two SD1 drawings depict the whole of the Efi loom which should be similar to yours, and the two ringed earth connectors are clearly shown.
The two BW wires go to the coolant temp sensor and to pin 35 of the ECU multiplug.
Edited by honestjohntoo on Tuesday 20th December 20:55
Eg what is YW,YP,SP etc. etc.
Many Thanks
Regards
Ian
Check out page 2 of the 3 page PDF (205kb) available from this link to get the basic twelve colour codes.
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Download...
For a cable denoted with two letters such as YP, that means the cable is Yellow with a Purple tracer.
The first letter is always the main colour and the second letter is always the tracer.
All the above slightly complicated by the notation for Light Green as you will see.
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Download...
For a cable denoted with two letters such as YP, that means the cable is Yellow with a Purple tracer.
The first letter is always the main colour and the second letter is always the tracer.
All the above slightly complicated by the notation for Light Green as you will see.
maston said:
I'm wondering if I have a faulty injector or two? Tested a few of them earlier and they were all 0.3 ohms?
All main injectors on your 350i should be 2.4 ohms plus or minus 0.5ohms, so typically 2 to 3 ohms, not 0.3ohms. See the notes on this circuit diagram.
If some injectors are weeping, it may explain over fuelling but the normal way of diagnosing that problem is by monitoring fuel pressure after the engine has been switched off to see if the fuel rail is holding pressure. Check my Efi archive for procedure.
The larger red plastic relay is the steering module, on my car it is situated between the main and fuel pump relays at one end of the relay board. It sounds like yours is different but those three relays are likely to be together as they are part of the engine relay set up rather than the car equipment relays.
pjtvr390se said:
The larger red plastic relay is the steering module, on my car it is situated between the main and fuel pump relays at one end of the relay board. It sounds like yours is different but those three relays are likely to be together as they are part of the engine relay set up rather than the car equipment relays.
Thank you, I will have a look at the weekend. I have just noticed too that there is only 3 wires attached to the coil in total (not including the suppressor) but I have been looking at a wiring diagram and there is 4 ???2 from the ignition module to the coil and 1 from the ecu pin 1 to the coil and 1 from the ignition switch to the coil so I MAY well have found my problem ???
Wedg1e said:
Ian, can't make any promises at the mo but I have to drop into Milton Keynes on Monday so if you haven't sorted it by then I might be able to detour on my way back to Gosport...
Ian, that would be brilliant, thank you.My number again is 07825767019.
By the way I have just spotted something which I think is CRUCIAL
One of the brown wires in the power resistor connector was very lose (almost half out) and the metal connector at the end of the brown wire is in half !!!!!!
Unfortuantely the battery is now flat so I won't know until I try tomorrow, could this be the cause ???
maston said:
Ian, that would be brilliant, thank you.
My number again is (*^&*(&%^&^$.
By the way I have just spotted something which I think is CRUCIAL
One of the brown wires in the power resistor connector was very lose (almost half out) and the metal connector at the end of the brown wire is in half !!!!!!
Unfortuantely the battery is now flat so I won't know until I try tomorrow, could this be the cause ???
Number duly noted, might be a good idea to edit it out My number again is (*^&*(&%^&^$.
By the way I have just spotted something which I think is CRUCIAL
One of the brown wires in the power resistor connector was very lose (almost half out) and the metal connector at the end of the brown wire is in half !!!!!!
Unfortuantely the battery is now flat so I won't know until I try tomorrow, could this be the cause ???
The broken wire may just be down to the amount of rummaging you and your auto-sparky have been doing. I'd be surprised if it caused over-fuelling though. Inicdentally why do you suspect over-fuelling; is it just whilst warming-up or all the time? Many V8s run as rich as hell until they're properly warm.
The over fueling was when it was running (has not been running for some time now) as it was smoking (black) like a steam train.
To add insult to injury, the starter motor is now playing up. Obviously seized as it doesn't spin at all. Not the battery as it fully charged.
I have reached the end of my tether and will now sell it.
So any body interested in making me an offer ? Apart from the running issues it is a nice wedge, the bodywork is in superb condition.
Any offers welcome.
Regards
Ian
To add insult to injury, the starter motor is now playing up. Obviously seized as it doesn't spin at all. Not the battery as it fully charged.
I have reached the end of my tether and will now sell it.
So any body interested in making me an offer ? Apart from the running issues it is a nice wedge, the bodywork is in superb condition.
Any offers welcome.
Regards
Ian
Hi Maston .When i bought my car it had been looked after by previous owner But laid up for approx 4 years .It would stall at idle i posted my problems on the forum and had a great deal of help from all here.It turned out to be the mixture .As the emmissions were sky high.i know its frustrating but i am sure you will get there .Good luck Mike
maston said:
To add insult to injury, the starter motor is now playing up. Obviously seized as it doesn't spin at all.
Its much more likely to be the starter relay or the solenoid that has croaked or a simple connection problem in the starter circuit probably caused by the continual effort at trying to start the engine. Your starter circuit will be similar to this.
If you cannot hear a faint clicking noise when the key is turned then the ignition switch or the starter relay are suspect.
If you can hear the starter relay but not the heavy thump of the solenoid then the starter relay contacts or the solenoid wiring is faulty.
If the heavy thump is present then the solenoid may not be making proper connection inside its mechanism or the heavy duty wiring to the solenoid and starter motor is compromised. This includes the earth strap between battery and engine.
The least likely cause is a seized starter motor but - sure - it is a possibility.
I'll correct myself (apologies) what happens it does actually turn the crankshaft etc. but very very slowly and only a few inches at a time, then a long pause, and then it will turn a few inches again etc.
Exactly the same symptoms as if the battery was flat but I took the battery out of my old BM (fully charged) to try that battery too and the same symptoms occured.
I am gutted/p*ssed off at the same time with this car !!!
Made worse the fact that it has a brand new clutch in it !
Such a shame as it is a really nice example (bodywork excellent) and do not want to sell it but I have lost all patience now.
Wedge1 kindly said he may be able to have a look on Monday (fingers crossed).
Exactly the same symptoms as if the battery was flat but I took the battery out of my old BM (fully charged) to try that battery too and the same symptoms occured.
I am gutted/p*ssed off at the same time with this car !!!
Made worse the fact that it has a brand new clutch in it !
Such a shame as it is a really nice example (bodywork excellent) and do not want to sell it but I have lost all patience now.
Wedge1 kindly said he may be able to have a look on Monday (fingers crossed).
maston said:
it does actually turn the crankshaft etc. but very very slowly and only a few inches at a time, then a long pause, and then it will turn a few inches again etc.
with that clarification we now know the solenoid is engaging and the SM is trying to rotate the engine, stops then tries again, and again.Prime suspect is a significant voltage drop in the heavy duty cables to the starter motor and/or the engine earth strap followed by croaky solenoid innards followed by a bujjered SM.
Regarding the car itself, isn't it the case that the most expensive part of maintaining any classic car is the cost of bodywork etc. and yours is nearly perfect.
And the (usually) most inexpensive problems are fixing the perplexing and irritatingly simple Efi and ignition problems. Its a no-brainer, surely? Have you considered a period of study regarding the Efi and its supporting ignition systems?
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