Red pektron 1861 steering relay
Discussion
I want to put the system back to standard as the fuel pump runs all the time the ignition is on the white and green to the pektron has been cut, the white and green from the fuel pump now joins some non standard thing that through the bulkhead it also takes a white wire from the injection relay the lead it joins looks professional
What the lead goes to is hidden behind a cover on the bulkhead firewall next job to do
Thanks your input has been very helpful and if you have the time I feel I may need more questions answered
What the lead goes to is hidden behind a cover on the bulkhead firewall next job to do
Thanks your input has been very helpful and if you have the time I feel I may need more questions answered
Was intrigued by this thread and the relative unobtainium nature of this Pektron 1861 device as I inadvertently pulled the cover off mine when I was fiddling with the relay board yesterday. Anyway thought I'd take some photos for reference, only a crappy phone camera I'm afraid so couldn't get macro shots of the diodes and didn't want to start touching anything to clean it up. Shouldn't be beyond the whit of man to fashion something similar up from a standard 5 pin relay innards and some bits from Maplins??? I would have thought (but I've not done it so don't know). Hope these assist.
Nice to see what a standard pektron looks like good for reference
Had sometime today after all so had a poke around I was wrong about the black box on the firewall just covers a hole I think I can see the fan
Looked around a bit more and found what the wire goes to I think it's a tilt type switch photos posted also photos of the mess of wires the two red ones are the tilt switch wires
![](https://thumbsnap.com/sc/NprVaD2f.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="https://thumbsnap.com/gakMKYF1" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]https://thumbsnap.com/sc/gakMKYF1.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="https://thumbsnap.com/gakMKYF1" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]https://thumbsnap.com/sc/gakMKYF1.jpg)
Had sometime today after all so had a poke around I was wrong about the black box on the firewall just covers a hole I think I can see the fan
Looked around a bit more and found what the wire goes to I think it's a tilt type switch photos posted also photos of the mess of wires the two red ones are the tilt switch wires
burnsdavies said:
Nice to see what a standard pektron looks like good for reference
Had sometime today after all so had a poke around I was wrong about the black box on the firewall just covers a hole I think I can see the fan
Looked around a bit more and found what the wire goes to I think it's a tilt type switch photos posted also photos of the mess of wires the two red ones are the tilt switch wires
That is an inertia switch that has been wired in to cut the fuel pump on impact, as far as I am aware they were never fitted to your model of TVR but some owners have fitted them as a precautionHad sometime today after all so had a poke around I was wrong about the black box on the firewall just covers a hole I think I can see the fan
Looked around a bit more and found what the wire goes to I think it's a tilt type switch photos posted also photos of the mess of wires the two red ones are the tilt switch wires
sorry not sure what a standard heating set up is like not seen any others just joined the tvr club
Had it around 1 1/2 years not one of my better buys had to take the body off, lots replaced to much to own up to this is the last stage to sort out hopefully I want to put some miles on it
It has kept me busy
Had it around 1 1/2 years not one of my better buys had to take the body off, lots replaced to much to own up to this is the last stage to sort out hopefully I want to put some miles on it
It has kept me busy
Going by what I can see in the above image, it looks like there are 2 wires connected to 1 wire of the impact switch and the white/green to the other wire of the impact switch, that is definitely not the correct way to do the job and could easily be keeping a permanent supply to the fuel pump relay, I am still of the opinion that the Pektron being damaged was the first problem with this circuit and then someone has done some bypassing of the Pektron and fitted the impact switch as a little insurance
The impact switch that has been fitted should have been wired into the white wire that connects from the ignition switch to the Pektron. With the impact switch wired in series with the white ignition wire that connects to the Pektron, should the impact switch then trip it would be carrying out the exact same function as turning the ignition off
I suggest you wire the relays up as standard, make sure that both relays are the correct ones, an incorrect relay will also possibly keep the fuel pump running. Once you have the circuit up and running correctly you can then wire in the impact switch correctly should you wish to use it
If you are unsure about checking for the correct relays, go by the below image - terminals 85&86 are the coil (85 most of the time being earth), 30&87 are the contacts
Check that the Pektron diodes are wired the correct way and none have gone short circuit or open circuit
The impact switch that has been fitted should have been wired into the white wire that connects from the ignition switch to the Pektron. With the impact switch wired in series with the white ignition wire that connects to the Pektron, should the impact switch then trip it would be carrying out the exact same function as turning the ignition off
I suggest you wire the relays up as standard, make sure that both relays are the correct ones, an incorrect relay will also possibly keep the fuel pump running. Once you have the circuit up and running correctly you can then wire in the impact switch correctly should you wish to use it
If you are unsure about checking for the correct relays, go by the below image - terminals 85&86 are the coil (85 most of the time being earth), 30&87 are the contacts
Check that the Pektron diodes are wired the correct way and none have gone short circuit or open circuit
Edited by Penelope Stopit on Saturday 24th March 20:55
Crossed posts, please re-read my above post that contains the relay image - I was editing it when you posted
The relays you are using should be numbered as my image shows and you can then check what wire connects to what terminal number, this will prove correct or incorrect relays
The relays you are using should be numbered as my image shows and you can then check what wire connects to what terminal number, this will prove correct or incorrect relays
Edited by Penelope Stopit on Saturday 24th March 21:00
I will check the relays
the white wire I think has just been cut into it runs from pektron to the relay above
I know what a relay does but will look-up which number does what I should know have wired some in a long time ago
Also some of the symboles on the electrics diagram not sure if I understand them right
the white wire I think has just been cut into it runs from pektron to the relay above
I know what a relay does but will look-up which number does what I should know have wired some in a long time ago
Also some of the symboles on the electrics diagram not sure if I understand them right
burnsdavies said:
I will check the relays
the white wire I think has just been cut into it runs from pektron to the relay above
I know what a relay does but will look-up which number does what I should know have wired some in a long time ago
Also some of the symboles on the electrics diagram not sure if I understand them right
No problem, post away and ask anything about what you don't understand on the diagrams and I or someone else will point you in the right directionthe white wire I think has just been cut into it runs from pektron to the relay above
I know what a relay does but will look-up which number does what I should know have wired some in a long time ago
Also some of the symboles on the electrics diagram not sure if I understand them right
Bedtime for me now - Later
Had a bit of time on the car I pulled the pektron out with ignition on fuel pump kept running but moved the tilt switch it cut out
I removed the tilt switch and put wiring back to standard I have fuel pressure when cranking over but on run no fuel pressure
I have 12volts at position 2 of the pektron but none at position 5 the diode is still working
But on my test meter on the 200k setting the resistor read 32 ohms would this stop the power what has me mixed up is between 5 and 2. I get 186 ohms and 5 and 3. I get 145 but 5 and 3 works is it a dud resistor
I removed the tilt switch and put wiring back to standard I have fuel pressure when cranking over but on run no fuel pressure
I have 12volts at position 2 of the pektron but none at position 5 the diode is still working
But on my test meter on the 200k setting the resistor read 32 ohms would this stop the power what has me mixed up is between 5 and 2. I get 186 ohms and 5 and 3. I get 145 but 5 and 3 works is it a dud resistor
burnsdavies said:
Had a bit of time on the car I pulled the pektron out with ignition on fuel pump kept running but moved the tilt switch it cut out
I removed the tilt switch and put wiring back to standard I have fuel pressure when cranking over but on run no fuel pressure
I have 12volts at position 2 of the pektron but none at position 5 the diode is still working
But on my test meter on the 200k setting the resistor read 32 ohms would this stop the power what has me mixed up is between 5 and 2. I get 186 ohms and 5 and 3. I get 145 but 5 and 3 works is it a dud resistor
You shouldn't have any voltage at Pektron terminal 2 until the flap in the air flow meter has moved and closed its contacts, the contacts close when the engine sucks on cranking.I removed the tilt switch and put wiring back to standard I have fuel pressure when cranking over but on run no fuel pressure
I have 12volts at position 2 of the pektron but none at position 5 the diode is still working
But on my test meter on the 200k setting the resistor read 32 ohms would this stop the power what has me mixed up is between 5 and 2. I get 186 ohms and 5 and 3. I get 145 but 5 and 3 works is it a dud resistor
The crank wire supply at the Pektron terminal 3 and onwards through the diode to Pektron terminal 5 energises the fuel pump relay and once the air flow meters contacts are made due to the flap moving - battery voltage through the air flow meters contacts is supplied to pektron terminal 2 and onwards through the resistor and diode to Pektron terminal 5 which then takes over energising the fuel pump relay so that the key can be released from its crank position
Those readings that you are getting between Pektron 5&2 / 5&3 are being taken through the diodes which will show a resistance as they aren't 100% conductors, it does look like the difference in those 2 readings is because of the resistor being in series with the 5&2 diode
First things first - Set your multimeter to its lowest range (perhaps it has a 200 ohms setting????) - Now see what value that resistor shows as and replace it if need be, the resistor should be a fusible one
Also while you are checking the above resistor - Check that the diode pointing to terminal 5 from terminal 2 fitted after the resistor is definitely soldered into the Pektron the correct way, the diode should be the same way as the other 2, you can easily check by using a volt meter to see if voltage is travelling through the resistor and diode
If you are sure that the air flow meters contacts are definitely open and closing when moving the flap - Check that the voltage is travelling through those contacts and onwards to Pektron terminal 2. In summary for this last sentence of info - Be sure the air flow meters contacts are making and breaking ok
Yes terminal 2 only comes live with ignition on and flap open I tested it with its top off 12volts at terminal 2 and other side of resistor .5 volts
I tested it for resistance it did not register till meter was put on the 200k band it read 32
I take it is dud
Saw this at maplins is it what I need tru ohm knp - 3005 or27 knp series 5. 0/0 3 w axial wire round or rapidonline just up the road from me but out of stock of the one I think I need but would this be the same code 51-8952
I tested it for resistance it did not register till meter was put on the 200k band it read 32
I take it is dud
Saw this at maplins is it what I need tru ohm knp - 3005 or27 knp series 5. 0/0 3 w axial wire round or rapidonline just up the road from me but out of stock of the one I think I need but would this be the same code 51-8952
You need to post links for me to be able to view items,
Is this one of the resistors you have been looking at - https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/metal-film-06w-27-ohm-r...
A Metal Film resistor does have fusible properties, the above link shows - Metal Film 0.6W 2.7 Ohm Resistor
I have just had a closer look at what the resistor achieves - The only thing that resistor is going to be doing is to overheat and blow if the fuel pump relay went short circuit or if the wire from the Pektron to the fuel pump relay went short circuit
You could just as easily do away with the resistor and wire in an inline fuse holder with 5Amp blade fuse, wire it in series with the blue/purple wire where it connects to the Pektron
On the other hand - That resistor I have linked to at maplin will do the job
Take a close look at the diagram and you will notice that the resistor is doing very little and not protecting much of the circuit
If all the wiring is back to standard and correct you can prove if the circuit will work without the resistor by bypassing the resistor for a test
Is this one of the resistors you have been looking at - https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/metal-film-06w-27-ohm-r...
A Metal Film resistor does have fusible properties, the above link shows - Metal Film 0.6W 2.7 Ohm Resistor
I have just had a closer look at what the resistor achieves - The only thing that resistor is going to be doing is to overheat and blow if the fuel pump relay went short circuit or if the wire from the Pektron to the fuel pump relay went short circuit
You could just as easily do away with the resistor and wire in an inline fuse holder with 5Amp blade fuse, wire it in series with the blue/purple wire where it connects to the Pektron
On the other hand - That resistor I have linked to at maplin will do the job
Take a close look at the diagram and you will notice that the resistor is doing very little and not protecting much of the circuit
If all the wiring is back to standard and correct you can prove if the circuit will work without the resistor by bypassing the resistor for a test
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