Wedge Radiator Removal
Discussion
Looks like my rad has to come out as it's peeing fluid big time - it's an SE style body so it's a new one for me - usually the front airdam comes off.
From what I can see the rad is held in with two bolts at the front about a third of the way from the top and rests on two retaining pegs at the bottom.
From what I can see for the procedure:
a) take off fan from cowling (3 screws with slotted heads)
b) undo bottom hose and catch water. undo top hose.
c) undo breather hose
d) remove top bolts on rad
e) remove bottom bolts on oil cooler bracket ( are these the only ones?)
f) tilt rad back, disconnect (h)otter switch
g) lift rad off bottom lugs and tilt back at the bottom
h) it should fit through the slot under the body even with the rad cowl still on (it's no thicker than the elbows)
Does this sound correct or have I missed anything?
From what I can see the rad is held in with two bolts at the front about a third of the way from the top and rests on two retaining pegs at the bottom.
From what I can see for the procedure:
a) take off fan from cowling (3 screws with slotted heads)
b) undo bottom hose and catch water. undo top hose.
c) undo breather hose
d) remove top bolts on rad
e) remove bottom bolts on oil cooler bracket ( are these the only ones?)
f) tilt rad back, disconnect (h)otter switch
g) lift rad off bottom lugs and tilt back at the bottom
h) it should fit through the slot under the body even with the rad cowl still on (it's no thicker than the elbows)
Does this sound correct or have I missed anything?
You'll find out if you've missed anything as it won't ' come out' , did this job in Dec and apart from the leak still being there when I put rad back in ,
( yes had to take it out again and send off to recon people who ended up apologising and doing recon for nowt ) , I think I could run a course on this job now - nuckle scrapes beware ! Good luck Adam , if you need help give me a ring .
( yes had to take it out again and send off to recon people who ended up apologising and doing recon for nowt ) , I think I could run a course on this job now - nuckle scrapes beware ! Good luck Adam , if you need help give me a ring .Edited by combine on Sunday 14th March 20:13
Cheers, I'm being frustrated by the bolts holding the fan onto the cowl! What idiot decided to put slotted pan heads on there? The two lower ones are rusted and there isn't enough purchase on the slot to undo them!
They are a right pig to get to - no space for a drill - I don't want to angle grind them as it'll probably melt the plastic. I think maybe a single-ended hacksaw might get through them.
They are a right pig to get to - no space for a drill - I don't want to angle grind them as it'll probably melt the plastic. I think maybe a single-ended hacksaw might get through them.
The oil cooler bracket has some very sharp edges on the flanges that mate to the rad and with the cooler attached I think there is a possibility of damage to the rad. Be careful especially after repair. The bottom hose connector on mine snagged on the inside of the bodywork. So had to modify the opening.
On a personal choice note, I blanked the otter switch hole and fitted a REVOTEC controller that sits in the top of the engine where the water comes out. I found the otter a mare to get at and a pain when putting the rad back.
Like I said though, personal choice!!
The wiring for the otter can be left in place and a switch wired across them back to the dash for a handy overide.
On a personal choice note, I blanked the otter switch hole and fitted a REVOTEC controller that sits in the top of the engine where the water comes out. I found the otter a mare to get at and a pain when putting the rad back.
Like I said though, personal choice!!
The wiring for the otter can be left in place and a switch wired across them back to the dash for a handy overide. adam quantrill said:
Cheers, I'm being frustrated by the bolts holding the fan onto the cowl! What idiot decided to put slotted pan heads on there? The two lower ones are rusted and there isn't enough purchase on the slot to undo them!
They are a right pig to get to - no space for a drill - I don't want to angle grind them as it'll probably melt the plastic. I think maybe a single-ended hacksaw might get through them.
Yes , remember this pigging fiddly job , found out after trying to use a screwdriver at front that they were 8mm bolt heads at the back when I thought initially they were flat heads , I must have been lucky ! They are a right pig to get to - no space for a drill - I don't want to angle grind them as it'll probably melt the plastic. I think maybe a single-ended hacksaw might get through them.
Well it's out! It looked like the mounting brackets wouldn't allow the rad to drop out forwards and to the bottom, so I though "what the hell" and took the cowl off the back and it seemed to almost want to come out the letterbox slot at the top. The drivers side bracket was fouling on the bodywork so that end was enlarged a couple of inches with a hacksaw. Almost out now - but the lower elbow won't come out. A half inch off the GRP on the RHS and out it slid. I just hope I can remember how it goes back in!
This is the final procedure:
a') remove bonnet for ease of access and drape protective cloth over nosecone
a) take off fan from cowling (3 screws with slotted heads)
b) undo bottom hose and catch water. undo top hose.
c) undo breather hose
d) remove top bolts on rad (1/2" - trap the front, remove from rear)
e) remove top and bottom bolts on oil cooler bracket and the ones at the other end of the cowl
f) tild rad backwards and forward and remove cowl, it slides up through the opening
f) tilt rad back, disconnect (h)otter switch
g) lift rad off bottom lugs and tilt back at the bottom
h) you might need to enlarge the top slot at one end or both to get enough clearance for the end brackets and bottom pipe.
I think I'll put it back in loose to pressure test it before doing everything all up ;^) I also got some captive nuts and hex-drive screws for the fan, to prevent another mega hassle in ten years time!
This is the final procedure:
a') remove bonnet for ease of access and drape protective cloth over nosecone
a) take off fan from cowling (3 screws with slotted heads)
b) undo bottom hose and catch water. undo top hose.
c) undo breather hose
d) remove top bolts on rad (1/2" - trap the front, remove from rear)
e) remove top and bottom bolts on oil cooler bracket and the ones at the other end of the cowl
f) tild rad backwards and forward and remove cowl, it slides up through the opening
f) tilt rad back, disconnect (h)otter switch
g) lift rad off bottom lugs and tilt back at the bottom
h) you might need to enlarge the top slot at one end or both to get enough clearance for the end brackets and bottom pipe.
I think I'll put it back in loose to pressure test it before doing everything all up ;^) I also got some captive nuts and hex-drive screws for the fan, to prevent another mega hassle in ten years time!
Edited by adam quantrill on Tuesday 16th March 17:00
Well the rad came back looking great - stuck it back in and - wait a sec - it didn't fit onto the brackets! Seems that it's almost an inch shorter than when it went away! Is this normal?
Wekk I hummed and hahhed about it and thought what the hell, so took one of the brackets out and put in some longer bolts, and packed it out with a piece of square steel tube from my good old metal store.
After that small fiasco it's just taken all day - what a fiddly job it is. It took ages to get the oil cooler back on, and the bleeding otter switch connections alone took about 15 mins - what arse designed that?
It's almost in, just the fan bolts to do up, top bolts on the rad, bonnet back on and then I'm back on the road.
Anyhow I ran it all up to full working pressure, the whole system keeps its pressure fine, no leaks so I'm looking forward to not having to buy a gallon of antifreeze every two months ;^)
Wekk I hummed and hahhed about it and thought what the hell, so took one of the brackets out and put in some longer bolts, and packed it out with a piece of square steel tube from my good old metal store.
After that small fiasco it's just taken all day - what a fiddly job it is. It took ages to get the oil cooler back on, and the bleeding otter switch connections alone took about 15 mins - what arse designed that?
It's almost in, just the fan bolts to do up, top bolts on the rad, bonnet back on and then I'm back on the road.
Anyhow I ran it all up to full working pressure, the whole system keeps its pressure fine, no leaks so I'm looking forward to not having to buy a gallon of antifreeze every two months ;^)
Yep, definately one of the worst job's I have done on my 400 and theres quite a list of them now!
I would have seriously considered changing the position of the otter switch though as per my earlier post on this thread. Can't understand why it came back shorter if it was just a recore.
I would have seriously considered changing the position of the otter switch though as per my earlier post on this thread. Can't understand why it came back shorter if it was just a recore.
Yeah Jeff I had heard bad things about the otter so it was put in before the rad was put in, with some blue Hylomar for good measure, and clipped while the rad was still loose. Next time I'll make up a couple of 4" extension leads to make it easy to join it to the loom, it was plugging it in that took so long.
Steve - you did put all the washers on the M10 bolts top and bottom - and get them in the right places? If the bolts go in too far they can foul the innards and make it leak again. And the oil cooler ones are longer.
Still, I'm on the home stretch now, only seven bolts to go, should be done before the F1 comes on ;^)
Steve - you did put all the washers on the M10 bolts top and bottom - and get them in the right places? If the bolts go in too far they can foul the innards and make it leak again. And the oil cooler ones are longer.
Still, I'm on the home stretch now, only seven bolts to go, should be done before the F1 comes on ;^)
http://www.actproducts.co.uk/shop/ar005-tvr-wedge-... Wonder how many wedgers have gone for this ?
Shipping weight 12kg? The shipping weight of the normal one is 8kg - so either they stick it in a lead box or it's actually much heavier than the original!!
Anyway mine's all in and working great, the fan comes on when required. The top bolts holding the rad in are a real pain to get in, I resorted to using a jack against the alternator to hold the rad in place to trap one of the ferrules so I could put the bolt in. I didn't use the ferrule on the other side as it was then too long and I didn't want to twist the rad, so I used a bit of rubber pipe cut to length.
Time for a quick spin today in the dry with the top down while I had the chance.
Anyway mine's all in and working great, the fan comes on when required. The top bolts holding the rad in are a real pain to get in, I resorted to using a jack against the alternator to hold the rad in place to trap one of the ferrules so I could put the bolt in. I didn't use the ferrule on the other side as it was then too long and I didn't want to twist the rad, so I used a bit of rubber pipe cut to length.
Time for a quick spin today in the dry with the top down while I had the chance.
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