New 350i owner
Discussion
Jack Valiant said:
Ralph, thats serious fella! If I was to guess i would suggest that the previous heads had a major failure of valves or similar and deposited metal into the bores. Then possibly the heads have been changed post problem? I have seen something similar with breaking down / moving liners but you say yours are ok?
If it were me i would bite the bullet and get a short engine and use the good bits off yours if the heads are good etc
Not a good first Wedge experience matey...... good luck
Chris
Hi ChrisIf it were me i would bite the bullet and get a short engine and use the good bits off yours if the heads are good etc
Not a good first Wedge experience matey...... good luck
Chris
This would explain the wear marks on the block where the push rods are, ie bent valves, so he must have just replaced the valves and springs, put new rods and lifters and job done.
The heads are just as bad mate with the same marks??? and the liners do look fine, still i think a new engine is in order, pretty crap mate as wanted to keep the engine number, never mind stuff happens
Cheers
Ralph
mrzigazaga said:
Hi Mate..I just found this which looks pretty similar..It doesnt sound good and probably would explain the metal shards you found the other day and possibly explain the knocking noise..
SMASHED DEBRIS
This piston crown has been damaged because debris entered the combustion chamber and was crushed between the piston and the cylinder head. This engine had a corresponding damage pattern on the head's squish band. The common causes of this problem are broken needle bearings from the small or big end bearings of the connecting rod, broken ring ends, or a dislodged ring centering pin. When A problem like this occurs, its important to locate where the debris originated. Also the crankcases must be flushed out to remove any left over debris that could cause the same damage again. If the debris originated from the big end of the connecting rod, then the crankshaft should be replaced along with the main bearings and seals.
Hi ZigSMASHED DEBRIS
This piston crown has been damaged because debris entered the combustion chamber and was crushed between the piston and the cylinder head. This engine had a corresponding damage pattern on the head's squish band. The common causes of this problem are broken needle bearings from the small or big end bearings of the connecting rod, broken ring ends, or a dislodged ring centering pin. When A problem like this occurs, its important to locate where the debris originated. Also the crankcases must be flushed out to remove any left over debris that could cause the same damage again. If the debris originated from the big end of the connecting rod, then the crankshaft should be replaced along with the main bearings and seals.
Thanks mate, i take the bottom end apart tomorrow and lets see what i find, with a bit of luck i may find some gold lol
I don't see how stuff from the crankcase can enter the combustion chamber without a big hole in the piston. Since that is clearly not the case, it looks like some metal entered these two cylinders either through the airways or the valves themselves were breaking up, or the spark plugs lost some bits.
Can the heads be skimmed to remove most of the pitting? Maybe use composite head gaskets to pack them out slightly afterwards. Or get new heads.
Those two pistons will have to be replaced or the skirt might break up where it's pitted leading to a repetition of the problem.
I would venture that the crank/con rods will turn out to be OK (no reason to think not - yet) though while you're in there you may as well replace all the bearing shells if they show any wear. Likewise the cylinder liners look in good nick.
I would say you can keep your block probably, if so you probably won't need a new cam either. Maybe not as bad as your worst case scenario....
Can the heads be skimmed to remove most of the pitting? Maybe use composite head gaskets to pack them out slightly afterwards. Or get new heads.
Those two pistons will have to be replaced or the skirt might break up where it's pitted leading to a repetition of the problem.
I would venture that the crank/con rods will turn out to be OK (no reason to think not - yet) though while you're in there you may as well replace all the bearing shells if they show any wear. Likewise the cylinder liners look in good nick.
I would say you can keep your block probably, if so you probably won't need a new cam either. Maybe not as bad as your worst case scenario....
Evening Lads
Well its all apart and there are no broken parts what so ever, so this must have happen some time ago??. The sump is full of some sort of rubber crap?? which also can be seen on the oil pickup, the crank looks good with no marks and crank shell do look a little worn??? well here's a few picture's and hope you could give me some answers maybe, o and the block looks ok , there's just 1 mark in one of the bores so hopefully i can get this fixed:thumbsup
Sump
pickup
shells
Small end shells
mashed piston
crank case
Cheers, Ralph
Well its all apart and there are no broken parts what so ever, so this must have happen some time ago??. The sump is full of some sort of rubber crap?? which also can be seen on the oil pickup, the crank looks good with no marks and crank shell do look a little worn??? well here's a few picture's and hope you could give me some answers maybe, o and the block looks ok , there's just 1 mark in one of the bores so hopefully i can get this fixed:thumbsup
Sump
pickup
shells
Small end shells
mashed piston
crank case
Cheers, Ralph
Yeah the white metal has gone on a lot of them so new shells, you might try some plastigauge to check the clearances but you'll probably be OK.
Clean off all the crud and wang it back together with a couple new pistons. Dunno if you'd need new piston rings all round? That would mean cross-hatching the bores again so they bed in.
Clean off all the crud and wang it back together with a couple new pistons. Dunno if you'd need new piston rings all round? That would mean cross-hatching the bores again so they bed in.
adam quantrill said:
Yeah the white metal has gone on a lot of them so new shells, you might try some plastigauge to check the clearances but you'll probably be OK.
Clean off all the crud and wang it back together with a couple new pistons. Dunno if you'd need new piston rings all round? That would mean cross-hatching the bores again so they bed in.
Cheers AdamClean off all the crud and wang it back together with a couple new pistons. Dunno if you'd need new piston rings all round? That would mean cross-hatching the bores again so they bed in.
Am going to see if i can find 4 x pistons and get the heads and block sorted. i,ll take the parts to Sutton re bore tomorrow and see what they say, cheers
Hi Ralph glad to see you're getting somewhere albeit not the way you had hoped. I don't know what your budget is but whilst the engine is out surely it may be well worth your while checking the clutch and associated ancilliaries whilst you can get to it?
Looking forward to seeing this car running sweetly. Keep it coming and well done mate.
Jimbo
Looking forward to seeing this car running sweetly. Keep it coming and well done mate.
Jimbo
mrzigazaga said:
Hi Ralph..Hopefully then the damage was caused as a result of a previous issue and the crape was left in there from the pre-top end rebuild by ole sloppy joe the mechanic...And here he is...
hahahaha ZigAm gonna ring the guy tomorrow mate as have his phone number, i,ll ask for the joker lol cheers mate, ralph
JMF894 said:
Hi Ralph glad to see you're getting somewhere albeit not the way you had hoped. I don't know what your budget is but whilst the engine is out surely it may be well worth your while checking the clutch and associated ancilliaries whilst you can get to it?
Looking forward to seeing this car running sweetly. Keep it coming and well done mate.
Jimbo
Hi JimboLooking forward to seeing this car running sweetly. Keep it coming and well done mate.
Jimbo
well the good news is it has a new clutch and pressure plate and am in the process of removing the gearbox and giving that some new oil and clean up, am also getting the engine bay ready for a lick of paint, as may as well do the hole lot and get it looking smart, cheers ralph
Ralph,
Out of curiosity I have have just read your most recent threads and to be honest I wished I hadn't.
Firtly as I cannot see the pics you have posted (am on works internet) I can't see what kind of intenal damage you are referring to.
BUT, I would like to point out mate that I sold the car as we both know as a non runner after (the so called mechanic ???) attempted to fit a new clutch. I had no idea of any internal engine issues whatsoever I'm afraid as I am not a mechanic. Although, judging by the work that was done I may be a better mechanic than I thought.
If I knowingly knew of any other issues with the car I would have stated them in my advert.
I have spent over £2k on my 390 SE and I'm afraid with 20 plus year old TVR's you do have to throw money at them to get them working. Your 350i owed me well over what i sold it to you for.
Anyway, anyway, back to the car, I have remembered some works that were carried out to one of the cylinder heads, which were not carried out by the mechanic I'd better point out, that involved a new replacement valve and some (welding works, I'm not sure???) welding works to one of the valve seats ??? If that sounds right ???
Anyway back to your running probs now, are you referring to some metal debris in one of the cylinder bores ? and if so could this be the problem ???
The car DID run really well after he fixed the head gaskets but only when he attmepted to fit a new clutch did it all go belly up.
Anyway, hope you get it running soon and as has been said and I suppose worst case scenario, you can find Rover v8 blocks for about £150.
Cheers
Ian
Out of curiosity I have have just read your most recent threads and to be honest I wished I hadn't.
Firtly as I cannot see the pics you have posted (am on works internet) I can't see what kind of intenal damage you are referring to.
BUT, I would like to point out mate that I sold the car as we both know as a non runner after (the so called mechanic ???) attempted to fit a new clutch. I had no idea of any internal engine issues whatsoever I'm afraid as I am not a mechanic. Although, judging by the work that was done I may be a better mechanic than I thought.
If I knowingly knew of any other issues with the car I would have stated them in my advert.
I have spent over £2k on my 390 SE and I'm afraid with 20 plus year old TVR's you do have to throw money at them to get them working. Your 350i owed me well over what i sold it to you for.
Anyway, anyway, back to the car, I have remembered some works that were carried out to one of the cylinder heads, which were not carried out by the mechanic I'd better point out, that involved a new replacement valve and some (welding works, I'm not sure???) welding works to one of the valve seats ??? If that sounds right ???
Anyway back to your running probs now, are you referring to some metal debris in one of the cylinder bores ? and if so could this be the problem ???
The car DID run really well after he fixed the head gaskets but only when he attmepted to fit a new clutch did it all go belly up.
Anyway, hope you get it running soon and as has been said and I suppose worst case scenario, you can find Rover v8 blocks for about £150.
Cheers
Ian
I think that TVR should stand for "To Venture Regardless"..I think we can all safetly say they are a pain in the rear but you have to love em..And when they go pear shaped just shake a box of matches at it..As i have done many a time..But NEVER strike a match in anger for you will live to regret it eternally!!..Oh and dont shake a box of swan vestas as they can ignite against each other..Once its all done you can sit back and say....."One headlight pops up and the other goes down"..."Its pulling to one side".."whats that rattling noise"..."Its leaking water".."Ive got oil under the car and dont know where its coming from".."Me hanbrake is knackered"..."Cant open the boot".."Theres a funny smell in the car...Ooops..Thats me"...
AND even when it is all finally fixed you will still change bits or upgrade the upgrade or paint this powder coat that..SO if you are short tempered..schizophrenic..of a nervous disposition and are an emotinal wreck..DONT buy a TVR...
PS:I will be selling mine at the end of the week...
AND even when it is all finally fixed you will still change bits or upgrade the upgrade or paint this powder coat that..SO if you are short tempered..schizophrenic..of a nervous disposition and are an emotinal wreck..DONT buy a TVR...
PS:I will be selling mine at the end of the week...
To be fair to Ian/Maston none of the internal damage you've found would stop it running and neither would it explain the ticking noise which I still think is from the cracks and holes in the manifold that you also found.
So you might have had a lucky escape as if one of the pistons had let go on a hoon, the damage would have been much worse.
So you might have had a lucky escape as if one of the pistons had let go on a hoon, the damage would have been much worse.
Realistically i think no one person is at blame..Its just luck of the draw..When you buy a non-runner it could be anything from an un-plugged connector to a full engine build..When i bought mine it was at first on the understanding that it was a runner but as soon as i realised and the guy that sold it to me realised that in fact it was a Non-runner the price dropped by 500 smackeroonies..I still paid 1500 for it and my interior had been served up to the local mouse/Rat brigade who feasted on it regularly by the look of it..What i have spent on it is a different story and like all these things where do you stop..If i could have all the money back that i have spent on keeping s
te cars roadworthy i would probably be able to buy myself a couple of well sorted SEACs buy hey..ste happens..Ian dont beat yourself up over it mate..Me and chris will do that for you on saturday....Only kidding fella..Now if you were the person who done the work on the car and ballsed it up and then sold it on knowingly then you would be one bad mofo..But your not..
Back in the day there were a couple of guys that we knew who used to work at car auctions and if any of us were in the bidding and they knew then they would pull a plug lead off to make it run rough and hardly anyone would bid..Now thats naughty..But nice..Bit like all the cake i ate at ettington last year...Ziga
te cars roadworthy i would probably be able to buy myself a couple of well sorted SEACs buy hey..ste happens..Ian dont beat yourself up over it mate..Me and chris will do that for you on saturday....Only kidding fella..Now if you were the person who done the work on the car and ballsed it up and then sold it on knowingly then you would be one bad mofo..But your not..Back in the day there were a couple of guys that we knew who used to work at car auctions and if any of us were in the bidding and they knew then they would pull a plug lead off to make it run rough and hardly anyone would bid..Now thats naughty..But nice..Bit like all the cake i ate at ettington last year...Ziga
Morning
Ian i brought the car as a non runner and take full irresponsibility for my actions, so i am not blaming or saying you new, anyway i have found what caused the issue ( see pictures) these where picked out off the heads, so am happy in the fact this was defo done some time ago and not buy me
i think its safe to say someone must of put the wrong plugs in at some point
cheers
Ralph
Ian i brought the car as a non runner and take full irresponsibility for my actions, so i am not blaming or saying you new, anyway i have found what caused the issue ( see pictures) these where picked out off the heads, so am happy in the fact this was defo done some time ago and not buy me
i think its safe to say someone must of put the wrong plugs in at some point
cheers
Ralph
Edited by ralph350i on Wednesday 9th May 07:52
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