My nightmare... errr restoration thread.
Discussion
Sorry to question the great wedgie1 but the fueling should not be affected as the air movement into the engine is measured by hte air flow meter and the mixture is calculated in relation to volume of air going into the engine not its capacity. The mixture should always be in the region of the stoichiometric level or you will end up with poor performance
blueone said:
Sorry to question the great wedgie1 but the fueling should not be affected as the air movement into the engine is measured by hte air flow meter and the mixture is calculated in relation to volume of air going into the engine not its capacity. The mixture should always be in the region of the stoichiometric level or you will end up with poor performance
The 390SE uses exactly the same setup as the 350i but the ECU is calibrated differently. I have the data to prove it However I'm no expert.
I stopped by the garage yesterday to see how they were making out with my car. It should have been done a week ago, but they didn't even get started on it until this week. They got the intake manifold ported and polished and bolted down, and the carb and heat shield installed as well. They had to replace the throttle cable because the old one was too short. The new manifold doesn't have the piping underneath that runs to the heater core. Instead there's a heater core pipe on the new thermostat housing, and also one at the back of the maifold as well. Apparently they're waiting for some pipe to hook up the heater core, and also waiting on a throttle cable bracket.
It's going to be a really close call for clearance on the bonnet. I might need a scoop.
I dropped off a MSD Blaster-2 ignition coil for them to use. The less LUCASfer (Prince of electrical darkness) in my car the better imho.
It's darned near ready to get tuned on the dyno. Any day now and it's one more wedge back on the road. And I can barely contain myself waiting!!
It's going to be a really close call for clearance on the bonnet. I might need a scoop.
I dropped off a MSD Blaster-2 ignition coil for them to use. The less LUCASfer (Prince of electrical darkness) in my car the better imho.
It's darned near ready to get tuned on the dyno. Any day now and it's one more wedge back on the road. And I can barely contain myself waiting!!
Yeah baby! I just got a call from the garage. They got it running late Friday afternoon. They said it sounded pretty ticky from sitting so long, but once warmed up and lubricated it purred like a kitten. They also said before that they pulled the plugs, cleaned them up and regapped them. No signs of bad deposits so cylinder health is good. Apparently there's a small fuel leak where I put on the new fuel pump, but once they have that sorted onto the rolling road it goes!
Once I get some horse/torque numbers I'll post them here. I'm obviously hoping for the best, but with a calculated 28hp loss at 3500ft ASL, plus drivetrain loss, 215WHP would make me happy. We'll see eh?
I also just ordered from Douglas Valley Breakers a new speedo since the needle off my old one broke off. It had a dented bezel so I got it for forty quid. Marshall of TVRCCNA wanted $300 for his (used) so it's quite a savings.
Once I do get it back from them all I have left to do is replace the left hand traffic biased headlamps with some N American 7" sealed beams I bought, put on the front spoiler, and get a four wheel alignment.
Now I just need to get dispatch to find me some freight to get my arse back to Calgary... so I can tinker for a day and go for a hoon.
Once I get some horse/torque numbers I'll post them here. I'm obviously hoping for the best, but with a calculated 28hp loss at 3500ft ASL, plus drivetrain loss, 215WHP would make me happy. We'll see eh?
I also just ordered from Douglas Valley Breakers a new speedo since the needle off my old one broke off. It had a dented bezel so I got it for forty quid. Marshall of TVRCCNA wanted $300 for his (used) so it's quite a savings.
Once I do get it back from them all I have left to do is replace the left hand traffic biased headlamps with some N American 7" sealed beams I bought, put on the front spoiler, and get a four wheel alignment.
Now I just need to get dispatch to find me some freight to get my arse back to Calgary... so I can tinker for a day and go for a hoon.
JMF894 said:
Not long to go i guess then big smiles allround
Yup, but sadly not without a little disappointment first. My Oz rims leak like a seive so I took it to the shop on my 15" RX-7 rims to save them the BS of inflating 2 tires every time them roll it on and out of the shop. They phoned me back explaining that the lug nuts only thread on about 4 threads due to the rim design and it wasn't safe to dyno the car. I need to bring them the Oz rims first.
That's okay though. Once I get there and drop the rims off, I'll take the day off work so I can get some video of the car on the dyno.
Here's a 400SE on the rolling road, to wet your appetite.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R6qHJ-2Fe2M
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R6qHJ-2Fe2M
grahamw48 said:
Here's a 400SE on the rolling road, to wet your appetite.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R6qHJ-2Fe2M
That it did. Thanks.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R6qHJ-2Fe2M
adam quantrill said:
Although not usually recommended because it makes a mess or the rims, you might want to try tyreweld because in your case Mike the rims might need splitting and rebuilding to get them fixed.
It wouldn't work anyway. The goo would spin to the outside away from the seam. OTOH, a bead of silicone around that seam and time to cure properly before inflation might do it.Mike i can tell you that all you probably need to do is remove the tyres, clean the join between the outer rim and hub without needing to split, then re apply rim sealant in two stages. One bead smoothed in with your finger then left for 24hrs then a second bead also smoothed in with your finger and left for 24hrsm again.
No need for the fabled gasket between the two rim sections.
When i split and refurbed my OZs there was no gasket and little more than a bead of common bathroom silicone!!
But i never had any leaks despite this.
I would also recommend making sure the actual rim of the wheels is clean and smooth.
Jimbo
No need for the fabled gasket between the two rim sections.
When i split and refurbed my OZs there was no gasket and little more than a bead of common bathroom silicone!!
But i never had any leaks despite this.
I would also recommend making sure the actual rim of the wheels is clean and smooth.
Jimbo
Well no tuning today sadly... tomorrow. Other cars are higher up the totem pole.
I shot some video of it running tho...
http://youtu.be/DEA9jFHJyV0
I can't wait to hear it with the engine under load. I hope I don't lose the snap crackle and pop decelerating.
I got lucky with the bonnet clearance. No problems closing it.
I shot some video of it running tho...
http://youtu.be/DEA9jFHJyV0
I can't wait to hear it with the engine under load. I hope I don't lose the snap crackle and pop decelerating.
I got lucky with the bonnet clearance. No problems closing it.
Here's the numbers...
http://youtu.be/oSU8ozg1zAE
I was hoping for more, but it is what it is.
Sounds good though!
http://youtu.be/oSU8ozg1zAE
I was hoping for more, but it is what it is.
Sounds good though!
- shrug* I have no idea why he did it in 3rd. Middle of the gear range perhaps?
From what the garage told me, the often touted "15%" loss is a little light, and in reality it's typically closer to 25% from cars they've both bench and chassis dyno'd. If this is true, what I ended up with isn't far off the mark.
Don't forget that with less air I also have to add less fuel.
Edited by Brap_Brap on Friday 21st September 02:50
On another note, I brought the car home from the garage and will be using this weekend to tidy up the "to do" list.
It's parked along some nice company imho. I'm not a huge American car fan, but I do like this '69.
Edited by Brap_Brap on Friday 21st September 02:57
Great news Mike - nice to see it running again and back on 4 wheels - I knew you could do it!
Yeah running in 3rd might have a slightly higher tranny loss? 4th is used as it's straight through on the lt77 (although it does still go via a bunch of cogs.) But probably nothing to worry about - and 3rd is where you need the power anyway ;^)
But at that altitude/loss of air it's screaming out for a supercharger!!! Next project perhaps...
Yeah running in 3rd might have a slightly higher tranny loss? 4th is used as it's straight through on the lt77 (although it does still go via a bunch of cogs.) But probably nothing to worry about - and 3rd is where you need the power anyway ;^)
But at that altitude/loss of air it's screaming out for a supercharger!!! Next project perhaps...
adam quantrill said:
Great news Mike - nice to see it running again and back on 4 wheels - I knew you could do it!
Yeah running in 3rd might have a slightly higher tranny loss? 4th is used as it's straight through on the lt77 (although it does still go via a bunch of cogs.) But probably nothing to worry about - and 3rd is where you need the power anyway ;^)
But at that altitude/loss of air it's screaming out for a supercharger!!! Next project perhaps...
I'm sure that when the guys at the 'Fest dyno'd my car (and the others on the day) they also used 3rd gear. Mine showed 256 at the wheels, 204 corrected at the flywheel, with just shy of 280lb.ft. torque. It was only about 140ft above sea level, mind you Yeah running in 3rd might have a slightly higher tranny loss? 4th is used as it's straight through on the lt77 (although it does still go via a bunch of cogs.) But probably nothing to worry about - and 3rd is where you need the power anyway ;^)
But at that altitude/loss of air it's screaming out for a supercharger!!! Next project perhaps...
Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff