What's happening in your garage this weekend ?
Discussion
Cheers Guys, I checked with RT and he said that the uprated springs are shorter, but give a standard ride height.
Anyway, I've managed to get one rear corner off (without cutting a hole in the boot as well ) plenty of plusgas, a wire brush and 2 9/16th spanners did the trick, plus a pair of spring compressors. Didn't even have to take the shock off the A frame. Just need to clean up the spring seats and paint them before fitting the new one. Then do the other 3 corners !!
One thing I've noticed is that I seem to be getting a lot of wear on the inside edges of the rear tyres, I know I've got too much toe in, and probably too much neg camber as well.
I know I can dial the neg camber out by increasing the number of shims between the halfshafts and the inboard disks.
I presume that the front part of the A frame is also adjustable to decrease the toe in. I'll also have to adjust the leading link lengths as well.
Time to get the SH bible out methinks.
Anyway, I've managed to get one rear corner off (without cutting a hole in the boot as well ) plenty of plusgas, a wire brush and 2 9/16th spanners did the trick, plus a pair of spring compressors. Didn't even have to take the shock off the A frame. Just need to clean up the spring seats and paint them before fitting the new one. Then do the other 3 corners !!
One thing I've noticed is that I seem to be getting a lot of wear on the inside edges of the rear tyres, I know I've got too much toe in, and probably too much neg camber as well.
I know I can dial the neg camber out by increasing the number of shims between the halfshafts and the inboard disks.
I presume that the front part of the A frame is also adjustable to decrease the toe in. I'll also have to adjust the leading link lengths as well.
Time to get the SH bible out methinks.
There are adjustable bolts on the A-frame, but these bolts are most rusted solid.... At least mine didn`t move at all, and we stopped trying before something would brake. Perhaps the plusgas can help you on that.
At the rear I do not need a spring compressor as with everything disconnected there is nearly no tension left in it.
Rob
At the rear I do not need a spring compressor as with everything disconnected there is nearly no tension left in it.
Rob
I got the 350i running nicely today. However the brakes are very iffy, requiring two presses of the pedal before getting enough pressure to stop!!! It seems the same even when static, so it isn't the pads getting knocked off the discs either.
It isn't losing fluid (as far as I can see) and I bled the fronts, but it didn't improve that much.
Any ideas?
It isn't losing fluid (as far as I can see) and I bled the fronts, but it didn't improve that much.
Any ideas?
adam quantrill said:
I got the 350i running nicely today. However the brakes are very iffy, requiring two presses of the pedal before getting enough pressure to stop!!! It seems the same even when static, so it isn't the pads getting knocked off the discs either.
It isn't losing fluid (as far as I can see) and I bled the fronts, but it didn't improve that much.
Any ideas?
pressure bleed the whole system, if it's any thing like mine you will need lots of fluid and time. still not very good, so going for new/rebuilt calipers all round.It isn't losing fluid (as far as I can see) and I bled the fronts, but it didn't improve that much.
Any ideas?
1.5l seemed to be enough.
So I took the 350i up to the garage for an MOT last tuesday, and then I get a phone call from them saying it wouldn't start!
After a bit of faffing about it turns out that the starter motor solenoid has siezed (energising the red/white wire spins up the mmotor but it doesn't engage), and consequentially the starter relay seems to have failed, and welded itself into the relay board. So now I've got another job to do, hopefully I can unsieze the motor with a good squirt of WD40. I'll probably leave the duff relay in situ and move the wires over to a new one.
So I took the 350i up to the garage for an MOT last tuesday, and then I get a phone call from them saying it wouldn't start!
After a bit of faffing about it turns out that the starter motor solenoid has siezed (energising the red/white wire spins up the mmotor but it doesn't engage), and consequentially the starter relay seems to have failed, and welded itself into the relay board. So now I've got another job to do, hopefully I can unsieze the motor with a good squirt of WD40. I'll probably leave the duff relay in situ and move the wires over to a new one.
Sealed leak on adapter plate from engine to oil cooler , seals I bought from Lee seem to be different , just a rubber ring in there , also have now put new engine mount blocks on , old ones split , manifolds now rubbing on chassis , blast ! Also cleaned stepper motor , put back in , switched on , 900 revs , horray ! Hope she doesn't do the 3000 rev thing again , scary !
combine said:
Sealed leak on adapter plate from engine to oil cooler , seals I bought from Lee seem to be different , just a rubber ring in there , also have now put new engine mount blocks on , old ones split , manifolds now rubbing on chassis , blast ! Also cleaned stepper motor , put back in , switched on , 900 revs , horray ! Hope she doesn't do the 3000 rev thing again , scary !
Steve,YHM
TVRleigh_BBWR said:
Well got the engine in the 280 and the engine brackets tacked into place, need to do the gearbox mounts, and then take it all out and weld it fully.
Looking good Leigh! Is it me or have you sat it higher in the chassis than an RV8 usually sits in a Wedge? Is that just so you can use the S/Chimp style manifolds?eesbad said:
TVRleigh_BBWR said:
Well got the engine in the 280 and the engine brackets tacked into place, need to do the gearbox mounts, and then take it all out and weld it fully.
Looking good Leigh! Is it me or have you sat it higher in the chassis than an RV8 usually sits in a Wedge? Is that just so you can use the S/Chimp style manifolds?But the sumps seems to poke out the bottom about the same amount as the 400SE.
But it may be a inch at most higher. but as the 280 chassis is 3-4 inches narrower than a 400SE one there is no room to fit standard manafolds or sit it any lower (unless I bring the who engeine a lot more forward), but Ideally I want the engine as far back as posible.
may have to have a small bulge in the bonnet. will do some more checks the weekend for height clearance.
Over the past 2 weeks I have dropped the diff changed over the rusted calipers and disks - Sunday the whole lot went back in used SH's wedgebolts to secure. Today the brakes will get a pressure bleed, hanbrake will get re-connected - tomorrow weather permitting the A Frame goes in with SH Tie Rods.
Next stop - the spray booth....
Next stop - the spray booth....
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