tvr 280i (no power to warm- up regulator)

[RCK974X]

As I've said elsewhere - my wedge required quite a bit of wiring work over the years, although most of it early on...

I did write a list elswhere, but main causes are -
Faulty Earth returns (probably number 1 cause of wierd problems - dim headlights, etc, etc)
Corroded conectors (may well be why you've got no power to devices ?)
Previous owners (bodging, not fixing)
ALL Black wiring (yes this was original !!)

but now it's pretty damn good overall.

[mrzigazaga]

RCK974X said:

my wedge required quite a bit of wiring work over the years,but now it's pretty damn good overall.

Please post a video of your headlights off then on and off and on again....Thats a humungus allegation you are making....
Only messing mate..I took your advice and got a voltmeter......Just got to learn how to use it/switch it on......

[RCK974X]

mrzigazaga said:

Please post a video of your headlights off then on and off and on again....Thats a humungus allegation you are making....

OK - now that's personal !! My pods work P_E_R_F_E_C_T_L_Y right ? HONEST !! <smile>

Truth is though - I ended up buying a set of those 100 packs of 1/4 inch spades (male and female) and matching insulator covers, (RadioSpares) and had to replace at least 4 of those nasty 'bullet' style multi-connectors, including one behind the drivers side pod (had to remove pod entirely to get at them...) bullets were well corroded, all green and a couple actually fell to bits....Yes, really. A good coating of copper grease on new connectors and good to go.

After that and cleaning up the earth returns, you wouldn't believe the difference !! Even the headlights are bright ! Since then, fingers crossed, I've had no problems, except horn has stopped a couple of times (again, bad earth, and in the line of rainwater)

[Grady]

For 2 year (plus or minus), my 280i has given me fits by refusing to start/run. Somehow I missed this thread! The power plug was dead so I jumped in 12 volts and a ground and now she starts right up like the old days. Thanks Guys

[Grady]

Then it sat for a couple of hours and wouldn't start at all... Argggg.

[jeff m2]

Only two things to check for bad starting (if it runs OK once started)

Aux air device, AAD remove, clean, test with physical heat, should be open when cold, closed when hot. This thing will work whether it gets the 12v from the Thermotime switch or not
It is a bimetal type thingy, it operates from the bimetal or from physical heat.
Cold start injector, this ops from the thermotime switch.
The thermotime switch gets the same 12v as the starter solenoid. So you can't just test for 12v without the key in the start position.

So...jam the pointy bit of a test lamp in the ground terminal of your battery (so you can see it from inside the car) put the clip on the terminal of the Tthermotime switch you should get a result when the starter is turning.

It has two terminals, one is the input from the key, the other is the "out" to the cold start injector.
Assuming the car is cold you should get a rersult on both terminals.

I don't visit here often, but I'll check back to see how you get on, in return you have to send some of that Texas heat up here to NJ.